Welcome to the list ! Most of the mods you are reading about
ARE needed for an O-320 Rebel. Have you moved the firewall
back 3" for the O-320 ?? (Probably best if you have not !)
The factory has a service bulletin called "Floatfix bulletin" -
it outlines several necessary mods.
If your forward corner wraps - top & bottom, are FUS-70's,
which are .025 thick, then you have nothing to worry about.
Some older Rebels had FUS-10's, which are only .020 - these
are a bit too delicate ! ;-) Ideally, you would use FUS-70's
top & bottom at the rear of the cabin, as well .... but it's not
vital. The firewall plates are definitely a good idea - they do
what the horizontal channel in the 'floatfix' does, but better,
and at the bottom, as well.
There is also a factory bulletin about a thicker angle bracket
to join the top horizontal bulkhead in the tail to the rudder post.
That's another 'must do'. While you are back there, look up
the pics of Ontario Mod #1 - this is a doubler wrap over FUS-30.
You can use another FUS-30 and cut away the front part, but
be sure to rivet to the top bulkhead and the tail post, and a
few other places, as well ! A good, wet coating of EP-430
primer will help glue them together. This is a "must do"
- or you'll be doing it later, after replacing the torn FUS-30.
It tears up the side of the rudder post from side loads ...
You would be best to use a Scott 3200 tailwheel - partly
because it's pneumatic and larger, and partly because it
adds about 8 lb. back in the tail, which you will need for
the O-320. ;-)
Another popular Ontario mod is to replace the FUS-26 (??)
- the small long panel under the door - with a copy made from
.032 or .040 (the original is only .020, and flexes when on floats).
A couple of pieces of stringer, or channel up the back of it
won't hurt either ...
If your instrument panel does not have a 1 1/2 - 2" 1/8" thick
aluminum angle or channel running the full width at the bottom,
tied into the posts, it would be good to add one ! This is a great
place to mount the throttle & mixture & trim, and it will
stiffen the panel & fuse - the panel IS structural !
Those are most of the critical spots - unless you have the
spring gear. Then you need to spend some time in the archives
- there are several 'fixes' to that area !
Don't be alarmed by all this - no airplane is perfect (ask
anyone who has had a Cessna 180/185 for over 5 years !) -
the good thing for you is - over 700 builders have worked on
feedback from 15 years of rough field service, and developed
fixes so you don't have to suffer ! Just follow their advice and
experience, and you will join those who say that "The Rebel
is THE WORLD'S BEST FLOAT PLANE !!" ! ;-) :-)
.....bobp
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Sunday 05 June 2005 12:10 pm, Gary Gustafson wrote:
** Check your subject, does it still reflect the message? **
I am a recent purchaser of a partially complete Rebel, #242, and now
read with interest the emails from the Rebel builders group.
After reading the two emails below, I am somewhat concerned about the
references to beefing up the forward skins, the firewall, and oil
canning. I have just mounted a Lycoming O-320 on the fuselage. Should
I be concerned about oil canning???
I look on the builders web site and see pictures of firewall reinforcing
and cabin floor stiffeners.
I also see a series of pictures of skylight hole cracks and doublers.
I do not find an explanation as to why these mods were needed or what
caused the cracks to occur in the first place. Really hard landings.
Fatigue after many hours of use. MAM has not issued any directives
that I can find.
So could someone explain if these mods are necessary for an O-320 Rebel.
Now is the time for me to correct these if there is a long term problem.
Should I take steps to beef up my plane?
Thanking you in advance for any assistance.
Gary Gustafson #242
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