torqe tube travel

[Richard Bartman]

When I built my rebel I found that with both lock nuts tightened on the short
torque tube from the main controll tube to the first belcrank, the elevevator
travel was restricted. I asked tech support (Francis) about this and he said
remove one of the lock nuts. Now when thw stick is used for eleveator controll
the movement is in the threads on the bearing end. One of the Rebel Rouser
builders has the same problem and has been told by three a&p's that this is
not acceptable. Any comments?
Rich

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[Doug Martin]

If'n you are an EAA member? check out the January issue of "Sport
Aviation" It has an article on just that question.
It sound like your bolt is too short. All movement should be on the shank
of the bolt never on the threads. Also all control bolts where there might
be any movement at all, should have castel nuts with cotter keys. Not lock
nuts.
I am not sure where you are talking about. It sounds like somthing Wayne
would know.



At 05:27 PM 1/28/2000 MST, you wrote:

When I built my rebel I found that with both lock nuts tightened on the short
torque tube from the main controll tube to the first belcrank, the elevevator
travel was restricted. I asked tech support (Francis) about this and he said
remove one of the lock nuts. Now when thw stick is used for eleveator

controll

the movement is in the threads on the bearing end. One of the Rebel Rouser
builders has the same problem and has been told by three a&p's that this is
not acceptable. Any comments?
Rich

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Doug Martin
greyghost@powernet.net
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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

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Rich,

If you look closely at the instructions, they do show to leave the nut off
the contol coluum end. I didn't like the idea either (along with many others
Jack W. etc.), so cut 2 short (3/16" long) pieces of 1/4" I.D X 5/16" O.D.
steel tube and put one directly above and below the ball in the rod end.
This will allow the rod end to swivel more on the ball and allow full travel
of the stick.(and allow you to lock nut both ends!) I know Bob, yours has
been threading in and out for miles and miles, but this is an easy fix and
sooner or later that aluminum tube ends threads have got to get tired!!

Also, if you want all your rod end areas to look cleaner and have more
clearance to pinch points! Use a AN970-3 Penny Washer drilled to 1/4",
instead of the spelled out AN970-4 Washers. The -3's are the same diameter
as the rod end to retain them, as opposed to the -4's that are away
oversize.

Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Bartman <rbartman@usa.net>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Friday, January 28, 2000 7:27 PM
Subject: torqe tube travel


When I built my rebel I found that with both lock nuts tightened on the
short
torque tube from the main controll tube to the first belcrank, the
elevevator
travel was restricted. I asked tech support (Francis) about this and he said
remove one of the lock nuts. Now when thw stick is used for eleveator
controll
the movement is in the threads on the bearing end. One of the Rebel Rouser
builders has the same problem and has been told by three a&p's that this is
not acceptable. Any comments?
Rich

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[Bob Patterson]

I was just trying to remember how this 'fix' went - thanks, Wayne.
The undersized 'washers' to allow the ball more travel IS the answer !
This is much safer in the long run than letting the threads do the work.
I thought the manual had been changed long ago on this one !

.....bobp

--------------------------------orig.--------------------------------------
At 09:45 PM 1/28/00 -0500, you wrote:

Rich,

If you look closely at the instructions, they do show to leave the nut off
the contol coluum end. I didn't like the idea either (along with many others
Jack W. etc.), so cut 2 short (3/16" long) pieces of 1/4" I.D X 5/16" O.D.
steel tube and put one directly above and below the ball in the rod end.
This will allow the rod end to swivel more on the ball and allow full travel
of the stick.(and allow you to lock nut both ends!) I know Bob, yours has
been threading in and out for miles and miles, but this is an easy fix and
sooner or later that aluminum tube ends threads have got to get tired!!

Also, if you want all your rod end areas to look cleaner and have more
clearance to pinch points! Use a AN970-3 Penny Washer drilled to 1/4",
instead of the spelled out AN970-4 Washers. The -3's are the same diameter
as the rod end to retain them, as opposed to the -4's that are away
oversize.

Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Bartman <rbartman@usa.net>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Friday, January 28, 2000 7:27 PM
Subject: torqe tube travel


When I built my rebel I found that with both lock nuts tightened on the
short
torque tube from the main controll tube to the first belcrank, the
elevevator
travel was restricted. I asked tech support (Francis) about this and he said
remove one of the lock nuts. Now when thw stick is used for eleveator
controll
the movement is in the threads on the bearing end. One of the Rebel Rouser
builders has the same problem and has been told by three a&p's that this is
not acceptable. Any comments?
Rich

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[subersys]

"Wayne G. O'Shea" wrote:

Rich,

If you look closely at the instructions, they do show to leave the nut off
the contol coluum end. I didn't like the idea either (along with many others
Jack W. etc.), so cut 2 short (3/16" long) pieces of 1/4" I.D X 5/16" O.D.
steel tube and put one directly above and below the ball in the rod end.
This will allow the rod end to swivel more on the ball and allow full travel
of the stick.(and allow you to lock nut both ends!) I know Bob, yours has
been threading in and out for miles and miles, but this is an easy fix and
sooner or later that aluminum tube ends threads have got to get tired!!

Also, if you want all your rod end areas to look cleaner and have more
clearance to pinch points! Use a AN970-3 Penny Washer drilled to 1/4",
instead of the spelled out AN970-4 Washers. The -3's are the same diameter
as the rod end to retain them, as opposed to the -4's that are away
oversize.

Wayne G. O'Shea

I'm not visualizing this Wayne. Could you do a sketch and send it.
This thread thing has bothered me since day one but I haven't figured
out how to fix it. I was going to machine a bearing into the end of the
tube but never got to it. Also, have you done any work in trying to
tighten up the whole control linkage thing? Drives me crazy to have so
much slop in the system, yet it flies okay. Want to fix that. Anyone
come up with a mechanical flaperon system to eliminate the teleflex
cable slop?


--
Dave Bangle http://www.subielyc.com/
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[subersys]

"Wayne G. O'Shea" wrote:

Dave, you were so busy working on yours (Osh '95), you never did get down to
the threeshold of 34 to look at my mechanical flap system did you!!!!! Took
most of the slop out of it.

Do you have a fax number I can send a sketch to, for the first push pull
tube/rod end linkage. Not too great with my Auto Cad yet! Still kind of the
old pencil type of designer!

Wayne

Send it to 208 263-6637. I'll have the fax plugged in today. Thanks.
Did I see you at Oshkosh? Refresh me.
--
Dave Bangle http://www.subielyc.com/
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[Brian Cross]

Hi There

I agree with the ball joint problem. I also had to cut off some tubing - a
very short piece and put it on other side of the ball. The ball that I am
referring to is the one on the short push pull tube coming out of the main
torque tube. If you did not do this, when you swung the stick full left &
right, you felt a 'spongy resistance' at the end of the travel. Not a good
thing at all. With the tubing in place, we now have full travel until you
hit the solid stops.

On the AN970-3 washers, we drilled a few out to 1/4" ID so that it could be
used to complelety cover the ball joints. -4 are ridiculously oversized.
The -3 will do the same job more elegantly & at less weight.

Best Regards


Brian #328R

-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne G. O'Shea [mailto:oifa@irishfield.on.ca]
Sent: Friday, January 28, 2000 9:45 PM
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List
Subject: Re: torqe tube travel


Rich,

If you look closely at the instructions, they do show to leave the nut off
the contol coluum end. I didn't like the idea either (along with many others
Jack W. etc.), so cut 2 short (3/16" long) pieces of 1/4" I.D X 5/16" O.D.
steel tube and put one directly above and below the ball in the rod end.
This will allow the rod end to swivel more on the ball and allow full travel
of the stick.(and allow you to lock nut both ends!) I know Bob, yours has
been threading in and out for miles and miles, but this is an easy fix and
sooner or later that aluminum tube ends threads have got to get tired!!

Also, if you want all your rod end areas to look cleaner and have more
clearance to pinch points! Use a AN970-3 Penny Washer drilled to 1/4",
instead of the spelled out AN970-4 Washers. The -3's are the same diameter
as the rod end to retain them, as opposed to the -4's that are away
oversize.

Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Bartman <rbartman@usa.net>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Friday, January 28, 2000 7:27 PM
Subject: torqe tube travel


When I built my rebel I found that with both lock nuts tightened on the
short
torque tube from the main controll tube to the first belcrank, the
elevevator
travel was restricted. I asked tech support (Francis) about this and he said
remove one of the lock nuts. Now when thw stick is used for eleveator
controll
the movement is in the threads on the bearing end. One of the Rebel Rouser
builders has the same problem and has been told by three a&p's that this is
not acceptable. Any comments?
Rich

____________________________________________________________________
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Archives located at:
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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

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Your following message has been delivered to the 148 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 10:27:52 on 29 Jan 2000.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------


Who knows Bob, no one gets updates to the manual other than people that buy
the newer kits! I should know, I have 5 manual sets on my book shelf!!!!(no
updates received for at least 4 years - not even the float fix bulletin and
I'm the guy that tried to get this one going in the first place!))

Wayne

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Friday, January 28, 2000 11:59 PM
Subject: Re: torqe tube travel

I thought the manual had been changed long ago on this one !

.....bobp

--------------------------------orig.--------------------------------------
At 09:45 PM 1/28/00 -0500, you wrote:

Rich,

If you look closely at the instructions, they do show to leave the nut off
the contol coluum end. I didn't like the idea either (along with many

others

Jack W. etc.), so cut 2 short (3/16" long) pieces of 1/4" I.D X 5/16" O.D.
steel tube and put one directly above and below the ball in the rod end.
This will allow the rod end to swivel more on the ball and allow full

travel

of the stick.(and allow you to lock nut both ends!) I know Bob, yours has
been threading in and out for miles and miles, but this is an easy fix and
sooner or later that aluminum tube ends threads have got to get tired!!

Also, if you want all your rod end areas to look cleaner and have more
clearance to pinch points! Use a AN970-3 Penny Washer drilled to 1/4",
instead of the spelled out AN970-4 Washers. The -3's are the same diameter
as the rod end to retain them, as opposed to the -4's that are away
oversize.

Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Bartman <rbartman@usa.net>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Friday, January 28, 2000 7:27 PM
Subject: torqe tube travel


When I built my rebel I found that with both lock nuts tightened on the
short
torque tube from the main controll tube to the first belcrank, the
elevevator
travel was restricted. I asked tech support (Francis) about this and he

said

remove one of the lock nuts. Now when thw stick is used for eleveator
controll
the movement is in the threads on the bearing end. One of the Rebel Rouser
builders has the same problem and has been told by three a&p's that this

is

not acceptable. Any comments?
Rich

____________________________________________________________________
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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

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Your following message has been delivered to the 148 members of
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Dave, you were so busy working on yours (Osh '95), you never did get down to
the threeshold of 34 to look at my mechanical flap system did you!!!!! Took
most of the slop out of it.

Do you have a fax number I can send a sketch to, for the first push pull
tube/rod end linkage. Not too great with my Auto Cad yet! Still kind of the
old pencil type of designer!

Wayne

-----Original Message-----
From: subersys <subersys@nidlink.com>
To: (Murphy Rebel Builders List) <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Saturday, January 29, 2000 10:46 AM
Subject: Re: torqe tube travel

"Wayne G. O'Shea" wrote:

Rich,

If you look closely at the instructions, they do show to leave the nut

off

the contol coluum end. I didn't like the idea either (along with many

others

Jack W. etc.), so cut 2 short (3/16" long) pieces of 1/4" I.D X 5/16"

O.D.

steel tube and put one directly above and below the ball in the rod end.
This will allow the rod end to swivel more on the ball and allow full

travel

of the stick.(and allow you to lock nut both ends!) I know Bob, yours has
been threading in and out for miles and miles, but this is an easy fix

and

sooner or later that aluminum tube ends threads have got to get tired!!

Also, if you want all your rod end areas to look cleaner and have more
clearance to pinch points! Use a AN970-3 Penny Washer drilled to 1/4",
instead of the spelled out AN970-4 Washers. The -3's are the same

diameter

as the rod end to retain them, as opposed to the -4's that are away
oversize.

Wayne G. O'Shea

I'm not visualizing this Wayne. Could you do a sketch and send it.
This thread thing has bothered me since day one but I haven't figured
out how to fix it. I was going to machine a bearing into the end of the
tube but never got to it. Also, have you done any work in trying to
tighten up the whole control linkage thing? Drives me crazy to have so
much slop in the system, yet it flies okay. Want to fix that. Anyone
come up with a mechanical flaperon system to eliminate the teleflex
cable slop?


--
Dave Bangle http://www.subielyc.com/
*----------------------------------------------------*
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between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

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the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 18:06:28 on 29 Jan 2000.
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Dave, I was there with my then 12 year old son (camping under wing). We
pulled in shortly after your "muffler" problem and offered our help in the
"pits". We were parked down past the threshold of the northbound runway,
with my rebel as seen in the picture on the front page of our site.

Will sketch something quick and fax off shortly!

Wayne

-----Original Message-----
From: subersys <subersys@nidlink.com>
To: (Murphy Rebel Builders List) <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Saturday, January 29, 2000 2:35 PM
Subject: Re: torqe tube travel

"Wayne G. O'Shea" wrote:

Dave, you were so busy working on yours (Osh '95), you never did get down

to

the threeshold of 34 to look at my mechanical flap system did you!!!!!

Took

most of the slop out of it.

Do you have a fax number I can send a sketch to, for the first push pull
tube/rod end linkage. Not too great with my Auto Cad yet! Still kind of

the

old pencil type of designer!

Wayne

Send it to 208 263-6637. I'll have the fax plugged in today. Thanks.
Did I see you at Oshkosh? Refresh me.
--
Dave Bangle http://www.subielyc.com/
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Archives located at:
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[Clay Smith]

Wayne, would you mind briefly describing your mechanical flap system. I sure am
interested in getting rid of that flex cable. Also, to the group, which way is
everybody attaching their wing,rudder and elevator tips. I don't think that I
want to rivet them as Murphy suggests. Thanks. Clay

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

Dave, you were so busy working on yours (Osh '95), you never did get down to
the threeshold of 34 to look at my mechanical flap system did you!!!!! Took
most of the slop out of it.

Do you have a fax number I can send a sketch to, for the first push pull
tube/rod end linkage. Not too great with my Auto Cad yet! Still kind of the
old pencil type of designer!

Wayne

-----Original Message-----
From: subersys <subersys@nidlink.com>
To: (Murphy Rebel Builders List) <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Saturday, January 29, 2000 10:46 AM
Subject: Re: torqe tube travel

"Wayne G. O'Shea" wrote:

Rich,

If you look closely at the instructions, they do show to leave the nut

off

the contol coluum end. I didn't like the idea either (along with many

others

Jack W. etc.), so cut 2 short (3/16" long) pieces of 1/4" I.D X 5/16"

O.D.

steel tube and put one directly above and below the ball in the rod end.
This will allow the rod end to swivel more on the ball and allow full

travel

of the stick.(and allow you to lock nut both ends!) I know Bob, yours has
been threading in and out for miles and miles, but this is an easy fix

and

sooner or later that aluminum tube ends threads have got to get tired!!

Also, if you want all your rod end areas to look cleaner and have more
clearance to pinch points! Use a AN970-3 Penny Washer drilled to 1/4",
instead of the spelled out AN970-4 Washers. The -3's are the same

diameter

as the rod end to retain them, as opposed to the -4's that are away
oversize.

Wayne G. O'Shea

I'm not visualizing this Wayne. Could you do a sketch and send it.
This thread thing has bothered me since day one but I haven't figured
out how to fix it. I was going to machine a bearing into the end of the
tube but never got to it. Also, have you done any work in trying to
tighten up the whole control linkage thing? Drives me crazy to have so
much slop in the system, yet it flies okay. Want to fix that. Anyone
come up with a mechanical flaperon system to eliminate the teleflex
cable slop?


--
Dave Bangle http://www.subielyc.com/
*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
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[Rebflyer]

Hi All,
I have to heartly agree with Wayne in that I have seen what allowing a
hines joint to thread and unthread will do. I bet if Bob puts some end load
on the thread it will show signs of movement. Movement means wear, to much
wear and you know the rest. A test pilot I know makes that part of his check
list when flying a aircraft for the FIRST time. The fix isn't that tough, and
no rerigging will have to be done.
Keep up the good keepum safe ideas, and Keep at it, it's worth it. Cuurt
N97MR
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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your following message has been delivered to the 146 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 12:33:33 on 3 Feb 2000.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------


Ryan, I don't think this control "rod end" issue was ever addressed by
Murphy, they where fine having it thread in and out, in and out, in and
out,!!!!

Sounds like your are making good progress on your kit!!!!! Float
instructions are pretty good, but make sure you order a set of 20 aluminum
pump out cups from Lake n Air (or your local base) and their good rubber
plugs with the pull cord. Also note that, Howard is tired of replacing the
black Sea Dog inspection cover rings, as they constantly get stepped on and
broken. I suggest if you are using the pump out cups you won't need in there
much anyway so make up some aluminum plates to cover holes. Could just screw
down or use quick fasteners.

Blue skies,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

-----Original Message-----
From: Ryan Amendala <longpup@hotmail.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Thursday, February 03, 2000 12:22 PM
Subject: Re: torqe tube travel

Wayne,

This also is not entirely true. We have rebel kit 669. Received kit in
September'99 and still have an old manual. We are installing the controlls
now and notice the same restrictions. We just picked up the floats this
week, hope the instructions are better!

BB&R Amendala
Rebel #669


----Original Message Follows----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com> (Murphy Rebel Builders List)
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: torqe tube travel
Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 10:23:53 -0500

Who knows Bob, no one gets updates to the manual other than people that buy
the newer kits! I should know, I have 5 manual sets on my book

shelf!!!!(no

updates received for at least 4 years - not even the float fix bulletin and
I'm the guy that tried to get this one going in the first place!))

Wayne

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Friday, January 28, 2000 11:59 PM
Subject: Re: torqe tube travel

I thought the manual had been changed long ago on this one !

.....bobp

--------------------------------orig.--------------------------------------

At 09:45 PM 1/28/00 -0500, you wrote:

Rich,

If you look closely at the instructions, they do show to leave the nut

off

the contol coluum end. I didn't like the idea either (along with many

others

Jack W. etc.), so cut 2 short (3/16" long) pieces of 1/4" I.D X 5/16"

O.D.

steel tube and put one directly above and below the ball in the rod end.
This will allow the rod end to swivel more on the ball and allow full

travel

of the stick.(and allow you to lock nut both ends!) I know Bob, yours

has

been threading in and out for miles and miles, but this is an easy fix

and

sooner or later that aluminum tube ends threads have got to get tired!!

Also, if you want all your rod end areas to look cleaner and have more
clearance to pinch points! Use a AN970-3 Penny Washer drilled to 1/4",
instead of the spelled out AN970-4 Washers. The -3's are the same

diameter

as the rod end to retain them, as opposed to the -4's that are away
oversize.

Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Bartman <rbartman@usa.net>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Friday, January 28, 2000 7:27 PM
Subject: torqe tube travel


When I built my rebel I found that with both lock nuts tightened on the
short
torque tube from the main controll tube to the first belcrank, the
elevevator
travel was restricted. I asked tech support (Francis) about this and he

said

remove one of the lock nuts. Now when thw stick is used for eleveator
controll
the movement is in the threads on the bearing end. One of the Rebel

Rouser

builders has the same problem and has been told by three a&p's that this

is

not acceptable. Any comments?
Rich

____________________________________________________________________
Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=1
*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

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The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
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*----------------------------------------------------*




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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your following message has been delivered to the 146 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 18:16:15 on 3 Feb 2000.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------


Ryan,

LAKE & AIR 1-612-496-3870, fax-496-4070
400 N. Airport Service Road
So. St. Paul, MN 55075

Wayne

-----Original Message-----
From: Ryan Amendala <longpup@hotmail.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Thursday, February 03, 2000 6:01 PM
Subject: Re: torqe tube travel

Wayne,

You mentioned these cups (and other great info) a while back. With amphibs
we are not located at a seabase ( I am not even sure where the nearest one
is) so do you have the phone number of Lake n Air?

Thanks

Ryan


----Original Message Follows----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com> (Murphy Rebel Builders List)
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: torqe tube travel
Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 12:29:11 -0500

Ryan, I don't think this control "rod end" issue was ever addressed by
Murphy, they where fine having it thread in and out, in and out, in and
out,!!!!

Sounds like your are making good progress on your kit!!!!! Float
instructions are pretty good, but make sure you order a set of 20 aluminum
pump out cups from Lake n Air (or your local base) and their good rubber
plugs with the pull cord. Also note that, Howard is tired of replacing the
black Sea Dog inspection cover rings, as they constantly get stepped on and
broken. I suggest if you are using the pump out cups you won't need in

there

much anyway so make up some aluminum plates to cover holes. Could just

screw

down or use quick fasteners.

Blue skies,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

-----Original Message-----
From: Ryan Amendala <longpup@hotmail.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Thursday, February 03, 2000 12:22 PM
Subject: Re: torqe tube travel

Wayne,

This also is not entirely true. We have rebel kit 669. Received kit in
September'99 and still have an old manual. We are installing the

controlls

now and notice the same restrictions. We just picked up the floats this
week, hope the instructions are better!

BB&R Amendala
Rebel #669


----Original Message Follows----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com> (Murphy Rebel Builders List)
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: torqe tube travel
Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 10:23:53 -0500

Who knows Bob, no one gets updates to the manual other than people that

buy

the newer kits! I should know, I have 5 manual sets on my book

shelf!!!!(no

updates received for at least 4 years - not even the float fix bulletin

and

I'm the guy that tried to get this one going in the first place!))

Wayne

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Friday, January 28, 2000 11:59 PM
Subject: Re: torqe tube travel

I thought the manual had been changed long ago on this one !

.....bobp

--------------------------------orig.--------------------------------------

At 09:45 PM 1/28/00 -0500, you wrote:

off

others

O.D.

end.

travel

has

and

tired!!

diameter

the

he

said

Rouser

this

is

http://www.netaddress.com/?N=1

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*




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[Ryan Amendala]

Wayne,

This also is not entirely true. We have rebel kit 669. Received kit in
September'99 and still have an old manual. We are installing the controlls
now and notice the same restrictions. We just picked up the floats this
week, hope the instructions are better!

BB&R Amendala
Rebel #669


----Original Message Follows----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com> (Murphy Rebel Builders List)
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: torqe tube travel
Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 10:23:53 -0500

Who knows Bob, no one gets updates to the manual other than people that buy
the newer kits! I should know, I have 5 manual sets on my book shelf!!!!(no
updates received for at least 4 years - not even the float fix bulletin and
I'm the guy that tried to get this one going in the first place!))

Wayne

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Friday, January 28, 2000 11:59 PM
Subject: Re: torqe tube travel

I thought the manual had been changed long ago on this one !

.....bobp

--------------------------------orig.--------------------------------------
At 09:45 PM 1/28/00 -0500, you wrote:

Rich,

If you look closely at the instructions, they do show to leave the nut

off

the contol coluum end. I didn't like the idea either (along with many

others

Jack W. etc.), so cut 2 short (3/16" long) pieces of 1/4" I.D X 5/16"

O.D.

steel tube and put one directly above and below the ball in the rod end.
This will allow the rod end to swivel more on the ball and allow full

travel

of the stick.(and allow you to lock nut both ends!) I know Bob, yours has
been threading in and out for miles and miles, but this is an easy fix

and

sooner or later that aluminum tube ends threads have got to get tired!!

Also, if you want all your rod end areas to look cleaner and have more
clearance to pinch points! Use a AN970-3 Penny Washer drilled to 1/4",
instead of the spelled out AN970-4 Washers. The -3's are the same

diameter

as the rod end to retain them, as opposed to the -4's that are away
oversize.

Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Bartman <rbartman@usa.net>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Friday, January 28, 2000 7:27 PM
Subject: torqe tube travel


When I built my rebel I found that with both lock nuts tightened on the
short
torque tube from the main controll tube to the first belcrank, the
elevevator
travel was restricted. I asked tech support (Francis) about this and he

said

remove one of the lock nuts. Now when thw stick is used for eleveator
controll
the movement is in the threads on the bearing end. One of the Rebel

Rouser

builders has the same problem and has been told by three a&p's that this

is

not acceptable. Any comments?
Rich

____________________________________________________________________
Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=1
*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

*----------------------------------------------------*
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between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
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*----------------------------------------------------*




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