Keith:
There are a few things not covered in the instructions:
1) Wayne has a mode to replace the nuts on the aileron hinge attachments
with plate nuts. I didn't do this, but wish I had! Even with the
inspection plates, the regular nuts are very difficult to get at once the
skin is on the wing. Also, the plates under the hinges need to be as big
(vertically) as possible to keep some "meat" arond the holes.
2) You need to plan for your wiring. I took mine along the D shaped space
ahead of the leading edge spar, but you can only go as far as the strut that
way, as there really isn't enough space to get the wires around the forward
wing attach bolts tidily. If you go this way, install a connector block on
the front of the spar near the spar attach inspection covers before you
rivet the leading edge skin. In fact, install the wiring at this stage
too - much easier.
3) Install the strobe power packs on the rear of the spars near the tips
before final assembly of the wing. Use plate nuts. Install inspection
covers big enough to remove the power supply if it fails.
4) The book calls for self tapping screws right in to the wing skins to
secure the wing root fairings. This is crude. Much better to use Tinnerman
nuts. If you want to do this, let the tank skins protrude 5/8" at the root,
rather than the published 1/2". This leaves much more room to install the
nuts. Install 1 1/4" x .032" strips between the wing skins and the root
ribs elsewhere to provide a flange for nuts in these areas.
5) Trim the flanges off the inboard 1" of the lower stringers inside the
tank to let water flow through to the fuel drain.
6) I strongly recommend Princeton capacitive fuel gages instead of the sight
glasses in the kit. If you go this way, you have to get a mounting plate
machined up though.
7) Instead of fancy tank venting, just weld a piece of 1/4" brake line into
the fuel cap and bend it 90* into the wind.
When you put the top skin ion the tank, make a temporary top out of the
cut out piece of the wing skin, and cut holes between the rivet lines to let
your hands get inside the tank. Wax the inside of the temporary skin. Slap
on the Proseal and then cleco the temporary skin in place. Working through
the holes, make sure there's a nice fillet all around. When everything has
cured, remove the temporary skin, scuff up the Proseal surface, fill any
voids in the joint area, then Proseal the tank skin permanantly in place.
Stick some pieces of waxed skin material in the areas where the wing skin
will have to be slid unser the tank skin to keep the slits open.
9) You may want to secure the tips with plate nuts instead of rivets.
10) At least on the Elite, the tips have too much droop to match the
ailerons when they're lined up with the flaps in the reflex (full up)
position. I had to cut a slot in the tip from top ro bottom in line with
the aileron hinge line, then another longitutinal slot all the way to the
trailing edge, then line things up properly and re-glass the whole thing on
the inside
So, as usual, a few omissions in the Murphy book.
Al Hepburn
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