Deburring floor channels

[Joel Jacobs]

I'm installing the floor in my rebel and in most areas the outer skin is
already riveted in so I'm only going to have about 2" from the backside of
the floor channel flange to the outer skin. Up till now when I run into
this situation I just unscrew the end off my deburring tool and work it
around with my fingers. It's a slow process and my fingers get cramped
after just a few. Well there's a bunch of holes in these floor channels and
I'd like to find an easier way. How are you guys doing it? Would it be
acceptable to run a small flat file across the backside of the flanges and
follow it up by wiping the backside with scotchbright?

Joel




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[mbetti]

Whether right or wrong, I know some MAM personal have recommended doing it that way on the back side of the skins. Grind the sides and round the corners of the file where contact will be made, just so you have the flat surface doing the filing.
Mike Betti
771E

On Mon, 28 Mar 2005 11:10:37 -0500, rebel-builders@dcsol.com said:

I'm installing the floor in my rebel and in most areas the outer skin is
already riveted in so I'm only going to have about 2" from the backside of
the floor channel flange to the outer skin. Up till now when I run into
this situation I just unscrew the end off my deburring tool and work it
around with my fingers. It's a slow process and my fingers get cramped
after just a few. Well there's a bunch of holes in these floor channels and
I'd like to find an easier way. How are you guys doing it? Would it be
acceptable to run a small flat file across the backside of the flanges and
follow it up by wiping the backside with scotchbright?

Joel




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[Ken]

Thats what I did. Same as for the wing stringers. Actually I may have
used 180 grit sandpaper instead of a scotchbrite pad.
Ken

Joel Jacobs wrote:

I'm installing the floor in my rebel and in most areas the outer skin is
already riveted in so I'm only going to have about 2" from the backside of
the floor channel flange to the outer skin. Up till now when I run into
this situation I just unscrew the end off my deburring tool and work it
around with my fingers. It's a slow process and my fingers get cramped
after just a few. Well there's a bunch of holes in these floor channels and
I'd like to find an easier way. How are you guys doing it? Would it be
acceptable to run a small flat file across the backside of the flanges and
follow it up by wiping the backside with scotchbright?

Joel

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[Joel Jacobs]

I was concerned about getting into the radius on the channels and hadn't
thought of shaping the file so that can't happen.. That's a great idea!
Joel

----- Original Message -----
From: <mbetti@up.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2005 12:18 PM
Subject: Re: Deburring floor channels

Whether right or wrong, I know some MAM personal have recommended doing it

that way on the back side of the skins. Grind the sides and round the
corners of the file where contact will be made, just so you have the flat
surface doing the filing.

Mike Betti
771E

On Mon, 28 Mar 2005 11:10:37 -0500, rebel-builders@dcsol.com said:

I'm installing the floor in my rebel and in most areas the outer skin is
already riveted in so I'm only going to have about 2" from the backside

of

the floor channel flange to the outer skin. Up till now when I run into
this situation I just unscrew the end off my deburring tool and work it
around with my fingers. It's a slow process and my fingers get cramped
after just a few. Well there's a bunch of holes in these floor channels

and

I'd like to find an easier way. How are you guys doing it? Would it be
acceptable to run a small flat file across the backside of the flanges

and

follow it up by wiping the backside with scotchbright?

Joel




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[Legeorgen]

You used aluminum oxide and not garnet sand paper, right? Just want everyone
to understand the difference. Garnet paper will cause a corrosion issue.

Bruce




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[Ken]

As it happens yes.
I am surprised to learn that there can be iron in garnet which I presume
is the concern.
http://64.233.187.104/search?q=cache:7b ... sive&hl=en
thanks
Ken

Legeorgen@aol.com wrote:

You used aluminum oxide and not garnet sand paper, right? Just want everyone
to understand the difference. Garnet paper will cause a corrosion issue.

Bruce

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