Rebel Door/Window Hinge

[Terry Dazey]

Hello Rebelers:

I am in the process of laying out the horizontal aluminum hinges that
connect the window section to the door (standard MAM fold down window).

For those who have completed their standard MAM doors: Has anyone that have
their upper and lower hinge flange rivets "in line" vertically with one
another, found that the window is restricted from completely folding down to
the brass latch by these upper and lower rivet heads hitting each other?

Is it best to use aluminum or stainless rivets here?

Thanks in advance for any information you can shed.

Terry Dazey
Rebel 662
Sumner, Washington USA




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[Ken]

Terry
Yes I offset mine for that reason and also used a countersunk rivet at
each end.
I used aluminum pop rivets and oversized holes in the plastic. Avex are
specifically designed to tighten radially in the hole and I wanted to
avoid that and cracks in the plastic. I would definately not want
stainless which would clamp down even harder on the plastic.
Ken

Terry Dazey wrote:

Hello Rebelers:

I am in the process of laying out the horizontal aluminum hinges that
connect the window section to the door (standard MAM fold down window).

For those who have completed their standard MAM doors: Has anyone that have
their upper and lower hinge flange rivets "in line" vertically with one
another, found that the window is restricted from completely folding down to
the brass latch by these upper and lower rivet heads hitting each other?

Is it best to use aluminum or stainless rivets here?

Thanks in advance for any information you can shed.

Terry Dazey
Rebel 662
Sumner, Washington USA

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[carol and murray cherkas]

Terry:

I oversized the hole in the lexan/plexiglass to allow for the rivet
expansion. I also pulled the rivets slowly by hand. Worked for me.

Good Luck
Murray
Rebel 505
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 7:43 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel Door/Window Hinge

Terry
Yes I offset mine for that reason and also used a countersunk rivet at
each end.
I used aluminum pop rivets and oversized holes in the plastic. Avex are
specifically designed to tighten radially in the hole and I wanted to
avoid that and cracks in the plastic. I would definately not want
stainless which would clamp down even harder on the plastic.
Ken

Terry Dazey wrote:

Hello Rebelers:

I am in the process of laying out the horizontal aluminum hinges that
connect the window section to the door (standard MAM fold down window).

For those who have completed their standard MAM doors: Has anyone that
have
their upper and lower hinge flange rivets "in line" vertically with one
another, found that the window is restricted from completely folding down
to
the brass latch by these upper and lower rivet heads hitting each other?

Is it best to use aluminum or stainless rivets here?

Thanks in advance for any information you can shed.

Terry Dazey
Rebel 662
Sumner, Washington USA

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[Jim Cole]

Hi Murray, I played hockey with an old friend of yours on the weekend in
Burlington.
Gene said to say hello.

We can talk a little more off-line so we don't bore the group.
Cheers
Jim Cole
SR083Moose

carol and murray cherkas wrote:

Terry:

I oversized the hole in the lexan/plexiglass to allow for the rivet
expansion. I also pulled the rivets slowly by hand. Worked for me.

Good Luck
Murray
Rebel 505
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 7:43 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel Door/Window Hinge

Terry
Yes I offset mine for that reason and also used a countersunk rivet at
each end.
I used aluminum pop rivets and oversized holes in the plastic. Avex are
specifically designed to tighten radially in the hole and I wanted to
avoid that and cracks in the plastic. I would definately not want
stainless which would clamp down even harder on the plastic.
Ken

Terry Dazey wrote:

Hello Rebelers:

I am in the process of laying out the horizontal aluminum hinges that
connect the window section to the door (standard MAM fold down window).

For those who have completed their standard MAM doors: Has anyone that
have
their upper and lower hinge flange rivets "in line" vertically with one
another, found that the window is restricted from completely folding down
to
the brass latch by these upper and lower rivet heads hitting each other?

Is it best to use aluminum or stainless rivets here?

Thanks in advance for any information you can shed.

Terry Dazey
Rebel 662
Sumner, Washington USA

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[Terry Dazey]

Thanks Murray and Ken for the information on the aluminum door/window hinge
question! Great help.

My plan is to stagger the rivets using aluminum rivets. I will then
countersink/dimple the end for CS rivets. I will also up drill the plexiglas
window material to 5/16.

I am a bit too far down the road building the doors/windows, but, if I had to
do it over again, I would give some thought to making the window trim out of
ONE piece of .032. It looks like this would be less labor, not to mention a
cleaner look.

Thanks again guys!

" I gotta keep at it because everyone says that it is worth it ! "

Terry Dazey
Rebel 662
Sumner, Washington USA

I oversized the hole in the lexan/plexiglass to allow for the rivet
expansion. I also pulled the rivets slowly by hand. Worked for me.

Murray

Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 7:43 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel Door/Window Hinge

Terry
Yes I offset mine for that reason and also used a countersunk rivet at
each end.
I used aluminum pop rivets and oversized holes in the plastic. Avex are
specifically designed to tighten radially in the hole and I wanted to
avoid that and cracks in the plastic. I would definately not want
stainless which would clamp down even harder on the plastic.

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[Walter Klatt]

Terry, I had a look at mine today. I didn't even stagger the
rivets and don't have any interference. The hinges on top of the
lexan and the bottom latch are enough to provide the necessary
clearance.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Terry Dazey
Sent: Friday, March 04, 2005 1:27 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Rebel Door/Window Hinge

Thanks Murray and Ken for the information on the

aluminum door/window hinge

question! Great help.

My plan is to stagger the rivets using aluminum
rivets. I will then
countersink/dimple the end for CS rivets. I will also
up drill the plexiglas
window material to 5/16.

I am a bit too far down the road building the
doors/windows, but, if I had to
do it over again, I would give some thought to making
the window trim out of
ONE piece of .032. It looks like this would be less
labor, not to mention a
cleaner look.

Thanks again guys!

" I gotta keep at it because everyone says that it is
worth it ! "

Terry Dazey
Rebel 662
Sumner, Washington USA

I oversized the hole in the lexan/plexiglass to

allow for the rivet

expansion. I also pulled the rivets slowly by hand.

Worked for me.

Murray

Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 7:43 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel Door/Window Hinge

Terry
Yes I offset mine for that reason and also used a

countersunk rivet at

each end.
I used aluminum pop rivets and oversized holes in

the plastic. Avex are

specifically designed to tighten radially in the

hole and I wanted to

avoid that and cracks in the plastic. I would

definately not want

stainless which would clamp down even harder on

the plastic.




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[Ralph Baker]

Terry, I looked at our Elite window and the forward window flashing at
the window hinge area hits the door hinge at the top when the window
folds down. It is not the rivets. We will trim the flashing back and
if that is insufficient will trim off the top door hinge barrel.
Ralph Baker
611E



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[Terry Dazey]

Terry, I had a look at mine today. I didn't even stagger the
rivets and don't have any interference. The hinges on top of the
lexan and the bottom latch are enough to provide the necessary
clearance.

Thanks Walter, Ralph and everyone for replying to my door/window hinge
questions.

I have since changed my plans to not stagger the rivet lines at the
horizontal door/window hinge and take my chance that the rivet heads will
not restrict the full open movement of the window to the brass catch at the
door bottom. I had ordered additional hinge material from MAM to replace the
hinge that was previously drilled, but figured not to wait and keep
building. Path of least resistance, I guess . . .

I remembered a hint from Wayne (I think) and laid the door skin on the flat
bench (creases up) and carefully set a 2x4 centered on the factory crease, I
then used my body weight to somewhat flatten the peaks.

Great group! Thanks!

Terry Dazey
Rebel 662






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