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STRINGERS
STRINGERS
I am getting ready to drill the stringers for the leading edge skins
and I am at a loss as to how to do it without flattening them is there a
simple trick or do I have to risk bending them? Also has anybody installed
the landing lights Murphy sells , and are they worth the money , or is there
a less expensive , just as satisfactory way to do it?
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and I am at a loss as to how to do it without flattening them is there a
simple trick or do I have to risk bending them? Also has anybody installed
the landing lights Murphy sells , and are they worth the money , or is there
a less expensive , just as satisfactory way to do it?
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between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
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STRINGERS
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your following message has been delivered to the 151 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 14:54:15 on 22 Jun 2000.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Douglas, To do the stringers on the leading edge skins you need to move your
stringer "holder" boards over to the edge of your table. Measure the leading
edge skin distance from the "nose" to the first row of stringer holes. Using
this measurement (less about 1/2"), mount you stringer boards to the table.
Now do your stringers. Do the rear most one first using weights to hold the
skin down and to keep it from rolling off the table. Then work you your way
to the front one. Doing it rear to front (as you should recleco your
stringer to the skin after each one is done) allows the weight to grow away
from the edge as you do each stringer. Going front to back puts the weight
up front were you don't want it and you will end up with the leading edge
falling on the floor! Once one side is done leave the stringers cleco'd on,
put a 2 X 4 or similar through the length and have someone help you take it
outside (if your shop isn't big enough to turn around in) and turn it around
and bring it back in to do the other side. The leading edges are easily
damaged if not properly handled and they will buckle in the centre. I don't
recommend it for the faint at heart, but I have done enough wings now that I
can hug the leading edge back into it's D shape, rotate it through vertical
and back down to the table on it's other side with out damage. Actually I
can't do that anymore because my shop here at home only has a 10 foot
ceiling as opposed to my old one had a 16 foot ceiling!
No I haven't install MAM's (Trevors) landing light kit, but many have. I
prefer to mount mine in the wing tips.
Blue skies,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
-----Original Message-----
From: Snader, Douglas E. <snaderde@tvfr.com>
To: 'murphy-rebel@dcsol.com' <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Thursday, June 22, 2000 4:15 PM
Subject: STRINGERS
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Your following message has been delivered to the 151 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 14:54:15 on 22 Jun 2000.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Douglas, To do the stringers on the leading edge skins you need to move your
stringer "holder" boards over to the edge of your table. Measure the leading
edge skin distance from the "nose" to the first row of stringer holes. Using
this measurement (less about 1/2"), mount you stringer boards to the table.
Now do your stringers. Do the rear most one first using weights to hold the
skin down and to keep it from rolling off the table. Then work you your way
to the front one. Doing it rear to front (as you should recleco your
stringer to the skin after each one is done) allows the weight to grow away
from the edge as you do each stringer. Going front to back puts the weight
up front were you don't want it and you will end up with the leading edge
falling on the floor! Once one side is done leave the stringers cleco'd on,
put a 2 X 4 or similar through the length and have someone help you take it
outside (if your shop isn't big enough to turn around in) and turn it around
and bring it back in to do the other side. The leading edges are easily
damaged if not properly handled and they will buckle in the centre. I don't
recommend it for the faint at heart, but I have done enough wings now that I
can hug the leading edge back into it's D shape, rotate it through vertical
and back down to the table on it's other side with out damage. Actually I
can't do that anymore because my shop here at home only has a 10 foot
ceiling as opposed to my old one had a 16 foot ceiling!
No I haven't install MAM's (Trevors) landing light kit, but many have. I
prefer to mount mine in the wing tips.
Blue skies,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
-----Original Message-----
From: Snader, Douglas E. <snaderde@tvfr.com>
To: 'murphy-rebel@dcsol.com' <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Thursday, June 22, 2000 4:15 PM
Subject: STRINGERS
thereI am getting ready to drill the stringers for the leading edge skins
and I am at a loss as to how to do it without flattening them is there a
simple trick or do I have to risk bending them? Also has anybody installed
the landing lights Murphy sells , and are they worth the money , or is
---------*a less expensive , just as satisfactory way to do it?
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
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STRINGERS
Wayne has already answered the stringer part .... (the 'boards'
he mentions can be lengths of quarter-round fastened to the bench in
the appropriate spots to support the skins on each side of the stringer)
The landing light unit has been described by several builders
as "excellent workmanship, very high quality, with great instructions".
If you want a 2 bulb, adjustable, in-wing system, this is the way to
go. (and I hear the "John Deere" headlight bulbs work great, at 1/4
the price of Cessna parts :-) )
If you want something less expensive, you could put the lights
in the wingtips (and while you're at it - do yourself a big favour and
order Dave Fife's Hoerner tips - it'll save you at least 50 hours work,
and improve your performance !) (I think he's now adding provision for
landing lights - they already have a platform for nav/strobes)
Several builders are using the rectangular quartz automotive headlights
for this - they're cheap, bright, and last a long time....
A quartz landing light <could> also go in the cowling ...
......bobp
------------------------------orig.----------------------------------
At 01:15 PM 6/22/00 -0700, you wrote:
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he mentions can be lengths of quarter-round fastened to the bench in
the appropriate spots to support the skins on each side of the stringer)
The landing light unit has been described by several builders
as "excellent workmanship, very high quality, with great instructions".
If you want a 2 bulb, adjustable, in-wing system, this is the way to
go. (and I hear the "John Deere" headlight bulbs work great, at 1/4
the price of Cessna parts :-) )
If you want something less expensive, you could put the lights
in the wingtips (and while you're at it - do yourself a big favour and
order Dave Fife's Hoerner tips - it'll save you at least 50 hours work,
and improve your performance !) (I think he's now adding provision for
landing lights - they already have a platform for nav/strobes)
Several builders are using the rectangular quartz automotive headlights
for this - they're cheap, bright, and last a long time....
A quartz landing light <could> also go in the cowling ...
......bobp
------------------------------orig.----------------------------------
At 01:15 PM 6/22/00 -0700, you wrote:
---------*I am getting ready to drill the stringers for the leading edge skins
and I am at a loss as to how to do it without flattening them is there a
simple trick or do I have to risk bending them? Also has anybody installed
the landing lights Murphy sells , and are they worth the money , or is there
a less expensive , just as satisfactory way to do it?
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
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STRINGERS
As a slight variation of what has already been mentioned:
Since my leading edge only had a factory bend of maybe 40 degrees. I took two 12
foot pieces of 1x3 wood and routed one as per the manual. When it came time to
do the leading edge I simply supported the two pieces of wood about 10" above my
table. I sat them on a couple of bricks but anything would do. Now half the
leading edge could lie horizontal on the pieces of wood while I drilled the
stringers, and the other half angled down so that the far edge rested on the
table. Anyway worked for me on the 0.020 Rebel leading edge, and didn't require
too much bending over while I worked.
I installed halogen projector auto lights in the leading edge. These are small
enough that they only need an opening in the forward spar about the size of the
lightening holes that are already there. Took at least 60 hours for both wings
by the time I made provisions for aiming them, bent the lexan, etc. While I am
very pleased with the result, I also like the factory light kit and that would
have been dramatically easier and quicker I think.
Ken
"Snader, Douglas E." wrote:
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Since my leading edge only had a factory bend of maybe 40 degrees. I took two 12
foot pieces of 1x3 wood and routed one as per the manual. When it came time to
do the leading edge I simply supported the two pieces of wood about 10" above my
table. I sat them on a couple of bricks but anything would do. Now half the
leading edge could lie horizontal on the pieces of wood while I drilled the
stringers, and the other half angled down so that the far edge rested on the
table. Anyway worked for me on the 0.020 Rebel leading edge, and didn't require
too much bending over while I worked.
I installed halogen projector auto lights in the leading edge. These are small
enough that they only need an opening in the forward spar about the size of the
lightening holes that are already there. Took at least 60 hours for both wings
by the time I made provisions for aiming them, bent the lexan, etc. While I am
very pleased with the result, I also like the factory light kit and that would
have been dramatically easier and quicker I think.
Ken
"Snader, Douglas E." wrote:
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*I am getting ready to drill the stringers for the leading edge skins
and I am at a loss as to how to do it without flattening them is there a
simple trick or do I have to risk bending them? Also has anybody installed
the landing lights Murphy sells , and are they worth the money , or is there
a less expensive , just as satisfactory way to do it?
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
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stringers
Hello
Is someone in Quebec (for freight reason) have 2 spares wing stringers for a Rebel (homebuilt)?
Jean
Rebel 747R
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Is someone in Quebec (for freight reason) have 2 spares wing stringers for a Rebel (homebuilt)?
Jean
Rebel 747R
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stringers
Hi Jean
Talk to MAM and get them to pack them up in a tube and ship them by Sameday courier, Sameday is the
only courier who will pick up long packages from MAM. They have their long truck on that route a
couple of days a week.
Actually, you may have to deal with the courier and pre-pay them to go to MAM and pick them up but
it is possible and the cost isn't too high. Don't ask me how I know this ;o)
Salut
Dave
Jean Poirier wrote:
David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada
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Talk to MAM and get them to pack them up in a tube and ship them by Sameday courier, Sameday is the
only courier who will pick up long packages from MAM. They have their long truck on that route a
couple of days a week.
Actually, you may have to deal with the courier and pre-pay them to go to MAM and pick them up but
it is possible and the cost isn't too high. Don't ask me how I know this ;o)
Salut
Dave
Jean Poirier wrote:
--Hello
Is someone in Quebec (for freight reason) have 2 spares wing stringers for a Rebel (homebuilt)?
Jean
Rebel 747R
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David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada
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stringers
very easy to fabricate
cut the right witdth , bent the first edge with a beader or hand roller
then bend the opposite side on a break. Will give the same result for a buck
each
gilles e717
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cut the right witdth , bent the first edge with a beader or hand roller
then bend the opposite side on a break. Will give the same result for a buck
each
gilles e717
From: Jean Poirier <oxyport@globetrotter.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel builder <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: stringers
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2005 12:58:45 -0500
Hello
Is someone in Quebec (for freight reason) have 2 spares wing stringers for
a Rebel (homebuilt)?
Jean
Rebel 747R
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stringers
Hi Jean !
Probably NOT a good idea to fabricate !! These are custom
extrusions that carry a LOT of the load in the wing structure....
Suspect the bending & rolling might add internal stress points
that would not be desirable !
While you are ordering, it might be a good idea to get an extra
one or 2 - this material is very handy for stiffening in many areas.
You can cut them up later - AFTER the wings are done, IF they
are not needed there ! :-)
.......bobp
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Monday 28 February 2005 08:35 pm, Gilles St-Pierre wrote:
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Probably NOT a good idea to fabricate !! These are custom
extrusions that carry a LOT of the load in the wing structure....
Suspect the bending & rolling might add internal stress points
that would not be desirable !
While you are ordering, it might be a good idea to get an extra
one or 2 - this material is very handy for stiffening in many areas.
You can cut them up later - AFTER the wings are done, IF they
are not needed there ! :-)
.......bobp
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Monday 28 February 2005 08:35 pm, Gilles St-Pierre wrote:
very easy to fabricate
cut the right witdth , bent the first edge with a beader or hand roller
then bend the opposite side on a break. Will give the same result for a buck
each
gilles e717
From: Jean Poirier <oxyport@globetrotter.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel builder <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: stringers
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2005 12:58:45 -0500
Hello
Is someone in Quebec (for freight reason) have 2 spares wing stringers for
a Rebel (homebuilt)?
Jean
Rebel 747R
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stringers
I was sitting on the fence on this one Bob. Glad you spoke up. Yes they are
extruded so no stress in them from bending etc. I went out to the shop and
pulled one out from under the table to have a good look. Being extruded
grain lines still run lengthwise just like a 12 foot sheet of material and
the die is a tad rough so there are heavy grain lines. If you sheared from
sheet stock you'd have grain in the same direction. IF you are really
generous on the bend radius I think you'd get a similar strength
part.....but not if you are bending it on a sheet metal brake that still
has the sharp edge. I am talking the .032" Rebel or Elite stringers..not the
.063 Moose stringers...you're not going to bend those ones successfully.
This is all on the presumption that the stringers are 6061-T6 extrusions
(which I think they are), but if they are 2024-T3 forget the idea of
fabricating your own on the brake without a huge brake nose radius.
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2005 9:35 PM
Subject: Re: stringers
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extruded so no stress in them from bending etc. I went out to the shop and
pulled one out from under the table to have a good look. Being extruded
grain lines still run lengthwise just like a 12 foot sheet of material and
the die is a tad rough so there are heavy grain lines. If you sheared from
sheet stock you'd have grain in the same direction. IF you are really
generous on the bend radius I think you'd get a similar strength
part.....but not if you are bending it on a sheet metal brake that still
has the sharp edge. I am talking the .032" Rebel or Elite stringers..not the
.063 Moose stringers...you're not going to bend those ones successfully.
This is all on the presumption that the stringers are 6061-T6 extrusions
(which I think they are), but if they are 2024-T3 forget the idea of
fabricating your own on the brake without a huge brake nose radius.
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2005 9:35 PM
Subject: Re: stringers
buck
Hi Jean !
Probably NOT a good idea to fabricate !! These are custom
extrusions that carry a LOT of the load in the wing structure....
Suspect the bending & rolling might add internal stress points
that would not be desirable !
While you are ordering, it might be a good idea to get an extra
one or 2 - this material is very handy for stiffening in many areas.
You can cut them up later - AFTER the wings are done, IF they
are not needed there ! :-)
.......bobp
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Monday 28 February 2005 08:35 pm, Gilles St-Pierre wrote:very easy to fabricate
cut the right witdth , bent the first edge with a beader or hand roller
then bend the opposite side on a break. Will give the same result for a
foreach
gilles e717
From: Jean Poirier <oxyport@globetrotter.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel builder <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: stringers
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2005 12:58:45 -0500
Hello
Is someone in Quebec (for freight reason) have 2 spares wing stringers
a Rebel (homebuilt)?
Jean
Rebel 747R
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stringers
Since it's a critcal part......here's Murphy's view on the stringers! "Both"
refers to Rebel/Elite stringers and Moose stringers. I think piece of mind
and your passengers safety is worth the shipping costs Jean!
"Both of the stringers are extruded 6061T6511 material. Although in theory
you could form the lighter gauge material into a stringer I feel it would
introduce to many stresses and could end up being a possible source of
failure, The 063 due to the bend radius would be impossible to fabricate."
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2005 9:56 PM
Subject: Re: stringers
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refers to Rebel/Elite stringers and Moose stringers. I think piece of mind
and your passengers safety is worth the shipping costs Jean!
"Both of the stringers are extruded 6061T6511 material. Although in theory
you could form the lighter gauge material into a stringer I feel it would
introduce to many stresses and could end up being a possible source of
failure, The 063 due to the bend radius would be impossible to fabricate."
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2005 9:56 PM
Subject: Re: stringers
areI was sitting on the fence on this one Bob. Glad you spoke up. Yes they
theextruded so no stress in them from bending etc. I went out to the shop and
pulled one out from under the table to have a good look. Being extruded
grain lines still run lengthwise just like a 12 foot sheet of material and
the die is a tad rough so there are heavy grain lines. If you sheared from
sheet stock you'd have grain in the same direction. IF you are really
generous on the bend radius I think you'd get a similar strength
part.....but not if you are bending it on a sheet metal brake that still
has the sharp edge. I am talking the .032" Rebel or Elite stringers..not
roller.063 Moose stringers...you're not going to bend those ones successfully.
This is all on the presumption that the stringers are 6061-T6 extrusions
(which I think they are), but if they are 2024-T3 forget the idea of
fabricating your own on the brake without a huge brake nose radius.
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2005 9:35 PM
Subject: Re: stringers
Hi Jean !
Probably NOT a good idea to fabricate !! These are custom
extrusions that carry a LOT of the load in the wing structure....
Suspect the bending & rolling might add internal stress points
that would not be desirable !
While you are ordering, it might be a good idea to get an extra
one or 2 - this material is very handy for stiffening in many areas.
You can cut them up later - AFTER the wings are done, IF they
are not needed there ! :-)
.......bobp
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Monday 28 February 2005 08:35 pm, Gilles St-Pierre wrote:very easy to fabricate
cut the right witdth , bent the first edge with a beader or hand
athen bend the opposite side on a break. Will give the same result for
stringersbuckeach
gilles e717
for
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stringers
Should clarify that this was Brent's opinion and not Darryl Murphy direct.
Brent's the PA that orders all the parts (and has a very diverse background
in aircraft repair/construction as well) and I had asked him what material
the stringers where extruded from... to clarify my previous post.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2005 12:47 PM
Subject: Re: stringers
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Brent's the PA that orders all the parts (and has a very diverse background
in aircraft repair/construction as well) and I had asked him what material
the stringers where extruded from... to clarify my previous post.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2005 12:47 PM
Subject: Re: stringers
"Both"Since it's a critcal part......here's Murphy's view on the stringers!
andrefers to Rebel/Elite stringers and Moose stringers. I think piece of mind
and your passengers safety is worth the shipping costs Jean!
"Both of the stringers are extruded 6061T6511 material. Although in theory
you could form the lighter gauge material into a stringer I feel it would
introduce to many stresses and could end up being a possible source of
failure, The 063 due to the bend radius would be impossible to fabricate."
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2005 9:56 PM
Subject: Re: stringers
areI was sitting on the fence on this one Bob. Glad you spoke up. Yes theyextruded so no stress in them from bending etc. I went out to the shop
andpulled one out from under the table to have a good look. Being extruded
grain lines still run lengthwise just like a 12 foot sheet of material
fromthe die is a tad rough so there are heavy grain lines. If you sheared
stillsheet stock you'd have grain in the same direction. IF you are really
generous on the bend radius I think you'd get a similar strength
part.....but not if you are bending it on a sheet metal brake that
forthehas the sharp edge. I am talking the .032" Rebel or Elite stringers..notroller.063 Moose stringers...you're not going to bend those ones successfully.
This is all on the presumption that the stringers are 6061-T6 extrusions
(which I think they are), but if they are 2024-T3 forget the idea of
fabricating your own on the brake without a huge brake nose radius.
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2005 9:35 PM
Subject: Re: stringers
Hi Jean !
Probably NOT a good idea to fabricate !! These are custom
extrusions that carry a LOT of the load in the wing structure....
Suspect the bending & rolling might add internal stress points
that would not be desirable !
While you are ordering, it might be a good idea to get an extra
one or 2 - this material is very handy for stiffening in many areas.
You can cut them up later - AFTER the wings are done, IF they
are not needed there ! :-)
.......bobp
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Monday 28 February 2005 08:35 pm, Gilles St-Pierre wrote:
astringersbuckfor
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stringers
For your infos
the best stringers we ran into so far were made of 7075 T62 they are bent
not extruded and my technician makes repairs and install them on Boing
737....
if you are not familliar with that kind of stuff ,,,,,order from MAM
gilles
e717
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the best stringers we ran into so far were made of 7075 T62 they are bent
not extruded and my technician makes repairs and install them on Boing
737....
if you are not familliar with that kind of stuff ,,,,,order from MAM
gilles
e717
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stringers
I've bought a lot to 7075 from Boeing Surplus over the years and it is a
hard alloy and difficult to bend. Most of what I have seen is extruded hat
section and very rigid material.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gilles St-Pierre" <ranchlaseigneurie@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2005 2:57 PM
Subject: Re: stringers
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hard alloy and difficult to bend. Most of what I have seen is extruded hat
section and very rigid material.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gilles St-Pierre" <ranchlaseigneurie@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2005 2:57 PM
Subject: Re: stringers
For your infos
the best stringers we ran into so far were made of 7075 T62 they are bent
not extruded and my technician makes repairs and install them on Boing
737....
if you are not familliar with that kind of stuff ,,,,,order from MAM
gilles
e717
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stringers
Jean:
I have several extra stringers that came with my Montana float kit that are
identical to the ones used on the Elite wings, and I believe will be the
same as on the Rebel. I'm not in Quebec, but can't get much closer
(Petawawa). I also have a Murphy pitot tube somewhere, but haven't been
able to lay hands on it yet!
Al
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I have several extra stringers that came with my Montana float kit that are
identical to the ones used on the Elite wings, and I believe will be the
same as on the Rebel. I'm not in Quebec, but can't get much closer
(Petawawa). I also have a Murphy pitot tube somewhere, but haven't been
able to lay hands on it yet!
Al
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stringers
Hello Wayne
I have never think about making those stringer by myself. I have not the
experience and time to make a plan built aircraft. May be some others
builders (like Gilles) have equipement and knowlage but not me.
Jean
Rebel 747R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2005 12:47 PM
Subject: Re: stringers
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I have never think about making those stringer by myself. I have not the
experience and time to make a plan built aircraft. May be some others
builders (like Gilles) have equipement and knowlage but not me.
Jean
Rebel 747R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2005 12:47 PM
Subject: Re: stringers
Since it's a critcal part......here's Murphy's view on the stringers!
"Both"
refers to Rebel/Elite stringers and Moose stringers. I think piece of mind
and your passengers safety is worth the shipping costs Jean!
"Both of the stringers are extruded 6061T6511 material. Although in theory
you could form the lighter gauge material into a stringer I feel it would
introduce to many stresses and could end up being a possible source of
failure, The 063 due to the bend radius would be impossible to fabricate."
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2005 9:56 PM
Subject: Re: stringers
areI was sitting on the fence on this one Bob. Glad you spoke up. Yes theytheextruded so no stress in them from bending etc. I went out to the shop
and
pulled one out from under the table to have a good look. Being extruded
grain lines still run lengthwise just like a 12 foot sheet of material
and
the die is a tad rough so there are heavy grain lines. If you sheared
from
sheet stock you'd have grain in the same direction. IF you are really
generous on the bend radius I think you'd get a similar strength
part.....but not if you are bending it on a sheet metal brake that still
has the sharp edge. I am talking the .032" Rebel or Elite stringers..notroller.063 Moose stringers...you're not going to bend those ones successfully.
This is all on the presumption that the stringers are 6061-T6 extrusions
(which I think they are), but if they are 2024-T3 forget the idea of
fabricating your own on the brake without a huge brake nose radius.
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2005 9:35 PM
Subject: Re: stringers
Hi Jean !
Probably NOT a good idea to fabricate !! These are custom
extrusions that carry a LOT of the load in the wing structure....
Suspect the bending & rolling might add internal stress points
that would not be desirable !
While you are ordering, it might be a good idea to get an extra
one or 2 - this material is very handy for stiffening in many areas.
You can cut them up later - AFTER the wings are done, IF they
are not needed there ! :-)
.......bobp
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Monday 28 February 2005 08:35 pm, Gilles St-Pierre wrote:astringersbuckfor
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