Tank Sealants

rognal · Post by **rognal** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:13 am

For all who might be interested, there is a good article (in PDF format)
recently posted to www.Vansairforce.net titled 'An Introduction to Tank
Sealants" by Paul Trotter, EAA Chapter 130.

The URL direct to the article is:

http://www.vansairforce.net/articles/tank_sealant.pdf

If that doesn't work for you try:

http://www.vansairforce.net/

then click on the left menu button 'Articles'. It is posted in
the 'Construction' section.

Roger Hoffman #687R
Eugene, OR USA!

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David Ricker · Post by **David Ricker** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:13 am

Good find! That has to be the definitive tank sealing info document!

Dave

rognal@dcsol.com wrote:

For all who might be interested, there is a good article (in PDF format)
recently posted to www.Vansairforce.net titled 'An Introduction to Tank
Sealants" by Paul Trotter, EAA Chapter 130.

The URL direct to the article is:

http://www.vansairforce.net/articles/tank_sealant.pdf

If that doesn't work for you try:

http://www.vansairforce.net/

then click on the left menu button 'Articles'. It is posted in
the 'Construction' section.

Roger Hoffman #687R
Eugene, OR USA!

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Gilles St-Pierre · Post by **Gilles St-Pierre** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:13 am

Roger
very good info to members
thanks
gilles
e717

From: David Ricker <ricker@inherentsys.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Tank Sealants
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 20:14:08 -0400

Good find! That has to be the definitive tank sealing info document!

Dave

rognal@dcsol.com wrote:

For all who might be interested, there is a good article (in PDF format)
recently posted to www.Vansairforce.net titled 'An Introduction to Tank
Sealants" by Paul Trotter, EAA Chapter 130.

The URL direct to the article is:

http://www.vansairforce.net/articles/tank_sealant.pdf

If that doesn't work for you try:

http://www.vansairforce.net/

then click on the left menu button 'Articles'. It is posted in
the 'Construction' section.

Roger Hoffman #687R
Eugene, OR USA!

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pollock · Post by **pollock** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:13 am

I am having conflicting reports on priming the fuel tank area then
prosealing or bare metal and prosealing.My feeling is that if you prep the
tank area properly prime and proseal that would prevent corrosion???? What
did they do on the fast builds?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gilles St-Pierre" <ranchlaseigneurie@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2005 7:28 PM
Subject: Re: Tank Sealants

Roger
very good info to members
thanks
gilles
e717

From: David Ricker <ricker@inherentsys.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Tank Sealants
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 20:14:08 -0400

Good find! That has to be the definitive tank sealing info document!

Dave

rognal@dcsol.com wrote:

For all who might be interested, there is a good article (in PDF
format)
recently posted to www.Vansairforce.net titled 'An Introduction to Tank
Sealants" by Paul Trotter, EAA Chapter 130.

The URL direct to the article is:

http://www.vansairforce.net/articles/tank_sealant.pdf

If that doesn't work for you try:

http://www.vansairforce.net/

then click on the left menu button 'Articles'. It is posted in
the 'Construction' section.

Roger Hoffman #687R
Eugene, OR USA!

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Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada

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Phil McGrogan · Post by **Phil McGrogan** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:13 am

The fast build Moose left the tank area bare metal, and carried the priming
on after the tank area. I personally wouldn't want to chance paint failure
and possible fuel line blockage.

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of pollock
Sent: February 27, 2005 8:51 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Tank Sealants

I am having conflicting reports on priming the fuel tank area then
prosealing or bare metal and prosealing.My feeling is that if you prep the
tank area properly prime and proseal that would prevent corrosion???? What
did they do on the fast builds?

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pollock · Post by **pollock** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:13 am

Thanks for your input someone told be the on the wet wings at dehavilland
are painted????

Bill
Moose 244
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil McGrogan" <mcgrogan@air.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2005 9:08 AM
Subject: RE: Tank Sealants

The fast build Moose left the tank area bare metal, and carried the
priming
on after the tank area. I personally wouldn't want to chance paint
failure
and possible fuel line blockage.

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
pollock
Sent: February 27, 2005 8:51 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Tank Sealants

I am having conflicting reports on priming the fuel tank area then
prosealing or bare metal and prosealing.My feeling is that if you prep the
tank area properly prime and proseal that would prevent corrosion???? What
did they do on the fast builds?

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Legeorgen · Post by **Legeorgen** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:13 am

Bill

If I understood correctly, you are asking if the tank inside should be
primed. No paint inside the gas tank. No paint between the metal and any tank
sealant either. The metal should be prepped and sealant in direct contact with
he metal. I wouldn't prime the inside of the tank in any case. You don't want
it flaking or coming off in sheets and plugging your finger strainer later.

Bruce

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Ken · Post by **Ken** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:13 am

Don't know about that but I wonder if he was confusing the DH products
that use bladders.
All bets guarantees and warranties for proseal are off if paint is
between it and the bare metal. The manufacturers sheets are pretty clear
about bare metal and the adhesion specs that I've seen are for bare
metal. I'd consider proseal on bare metal as a superior primer to epoxy
anyway especially if any flexing is involved.
Ken

pollock wrote:

Thanks for your input someone told be the on the wet wings at dehavilland
are painted????

Bill
Moose 244
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Mike Betti · Post by **Mike Betti** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:13 am

On this subject, I started working on the wings and in the begining of
construction they want you to put proseal under the section of spar cap that
is in the fuel tank. I have a quart of proseal and it says not to store it
unless closing the can and purging with nitrogen. That doesn't seem too
practical so what do you do? Do I need to buy a smaller quanity just for
this area? Or do I work around it until the need for more proseal arrives?
And if I do tap my can, how do you measure such a small quanity given the
10-1 ratio? What have other done? I bought 2B, is that the right stuff?
Thanks,
Mike Betti
771 Elite

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2005 9:34 AM
Subject: Re: Tank Sealants

Don't know about that but I wonder if he was confusing the DH products
that use bladders.
All bets guarantees and warranties for proseal are off if paint is
between it and the bare metal. The manufacturers sheets are pretty clear
about bare metal and the adhesion specs that I've seen are for bare
metal. I'd consider proseal on bare metal as a superior primer to epoxy
anyway especially if any flexing is involved.
Ken

pollock wrote:

Thanks for your input someone told be the on the wet wings at dehavilland
are painted????

Bill
Moose 244
-

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Wayne G. O'Shea · Post by **Wayne G. O'Shea** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:13 am

That's a first...nitrogen? Never heard that one yet in 12+ years. Don't
worry about it! Take the cans out of the fridge the day before you want to
use them...open the can (pull the plastic cover if one)..give the contents a
good stir with a putty knife. Do the same using a Popsicle stick on the
catalyst jar.

Weight is 10 to 1 and I use a digital scale (buy a cheap one somewhere for
little $'s) Scrap piece of alum about 4" x 6" on the scale and tare so scale
reads Zero. Plop 50 or 100 grams of proseal on using a clean putty knife and
then using a clean Popsicle stick 5 or 10 grams of catalyst. Mix the
catalyst in using the stick and then really good using the putty knife being
sure to scrape the alum well for a full mix.

Others use a "volume mix" using syringes and I believe by volume it's 8.7 to
1 or similar.

Before closing the can make sure the proseal is leveled out smoothly in the
can and scrape the sides down while doing so (otherwise the stuff left on
sides will dry out). Do the same with the catalyst and make sure the lids
are on tight. Put back in the fridge!

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Betti" <mbetti@up.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2005 6:10 PM
Subject: Re: Tank Sealants

On this subject, I started working on the wings and in the begining of
construction they want you to put proseal under the section of spar cap

that

is in the fuel tank. I have a quart of proseal and it says not to store it
unless closing the can and purging with nitrogen. That doesn't seem too
practical so what do you do? Do I need to buy a smaller quanity just for
this area? Or do I work around it until the need for more proseal arrives?
And if I do tap my can, how do you measure such a small quanity given the
10-1 ratio? What have other done? I bought 2B, is that the right stuff?
Thanks,
Mike Betti
771 Elite

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Mike Betti · Post by **Mike Betti** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:13 am

Thanks for the help Wayne.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2005 6:18 PM
Subject: Re: Tank Sealants

That's a first...nitrogen? Never heard that one yet in 12+ years. Don't
worry about it! Take the cans out of the fridge the day before you want to
use them...open the can (pull the plastic cover if one)..give the contents

a

good stir with a putty knife. Do the same using a Popsicle stick on the
catalyst jar.

Weight is 10 to 1 and I use a digital scale (buy a cheap one somewhere for
little $'s) Scrap piece of alum about 4" x 6" on the scale and tare so

scale

reads Zero. Plop 50 or 100 grams of proseal on using a clean putty knife

and

then using a clean Popsicle stick 5 or 10 grams of catalyst. Mix the
catalyst in using the stick and then really good using the putty knife

being

sure to scrape the alum well for a full mix.

Others use a "volume mix" using syringes and I believe by volume it's 8.7

to

1 or similar.

Before closing the can make sure the proseal is leveled out smoothly in

the

can and scrape the sides down while doing so (otherwise the stuff left on
sides will dry out). Do the same with the catalyst and make sure the lids
are on tight. Put back in the fridge!

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Betti" <mbetti@up.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2005 6:10 PM
Subject: Re: Tank Sealants

On this subject, I started working on the wings and in the begining of
construction they want you to put proseal under the section of spar cap
that
is in the fuel tank. I have a quart of proseal and it says not to store

it

unless closing the can and purging with nitrogen. That doesn't seem too
practical so what do you do? Do I need to buy a smaller quanity just for
this area? Or do I work around it until the need for more proseal

arrives?

And if I do tap my can, how do you measure such a small quanity given

the

10-1 ratio? What have other done? I bought 2B, is that the right stuff?
Thanks,
Mike Betti
771 Elite

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Ken · Post by **Ken** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:13 am

I've never heard of a nitrogen purge for an end user and I dug up a lot
of info on proseal.
Seal it and put it in the deep freeze if you have one and it is good for
a long time. Warm it before opening so it doesn't condense moisture.
Yes the B2 grade is what MAM ships.
I used a triple beam balance which is good for 0.1 gm to measure mine. A
lot of the affordable electronic scales don't really have the the
accuracy/resolution for small batches. I think some folks have rigged up
a simple homemade 10:1 balance beam.
Ken

Mike Betti wrote:

On this subject, I started working on the wings and in the begining of
construction they want you to put proseal under the section of spar cap that
is in the fuel tank. I have a quart of proseal and it says not to store it
unless closing the can and purging with nitrogen. That doesn't seem too
practical so what do you do? Do I need to buy a smaller quanity just for
this area? Or do I work around it until the need for more proseal arrives?
And if I do tap my can, how do you measure such a small quanity given the
10-1 ratio? What have other done? I bought 2B, is that the right stuff?
Thanks,
Mike Betti
771 Elite

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Jean Poirier · Post by **Jean Poirier** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:13 am

Hello

I have buy a mail balance at Office Depot for $49.95. It make both grams
and once. Easier in gram! I mix the /$?%&/%" stuff in empty small yogourt
pot and use it with a popsicle stick for small batch. For biggest job, I
have buy empty caulking tube, I cut them to +/- 4" long before fill. work
well if anything could work well with that "/$?%&/%/ stuff!

Jean
Rebel 747R

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2005 2:00 PM
Subject: Re: Tank Sealants

I've never heard of a nitrogen purge for an end user and I dug up a lot
of info on proseal.
Seal it and put it in the deep freeze if you have one and it is good for
a long time. Warm it before opening so it doesn't condense moisture.
Yes the B2 grade is what MAM ships.
I used a triple beam balance which is good for 0.1 gm to measure mine. A
lot of the affordable electronic scales don't really have the the
accuracy/resolution for small batches. I think some folks have rigged up
a simple homemade 10:1 balance beam.
Ken

Mike Betti wrote:

On this subject, I started working on the wings and in the begining of
construction they want you to put proseal under the section of spar cap
that
is in the fuel tank. I have a quart of proseal and it says not to store it
unless closing the can and purging with nitrogen. That doesn't seem too
practical so what do you do? Do I need to buy a smaller quanity just for
this area? Or do I work around it until the need for more proseal arrives?
And if I do tap my can, how do you measure such a small quanity given the
10-1 ratio? What have other done? I bought 2B, is that the right stuff?
Thanks,
Mike Betti
771 Elite

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Wayne G. O'Shea · Post by **Wayne G. O'Shea** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:13 am

Sounds like you're having fun and enjoying that $(@*%$#) stuff way tooooo
much !

)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jean Poirier" <oxyport@globetrotter.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2005 3:13 PM
Subject: Re: Tank Sealants

Hello

I have buy a mail balance at Office Depot for $49.95. It make both grams
and once. Easier in gram! I mix the /$?%&/%" stuff in empty small

yogourt

pot and use it with a popsicle stick for small batch. For biggest job, I
have buy empty caulking tube, I cut them to +/- 4" long before fill. work
well if anything could work well with that "/$?%&/%/ stuff!

Jean
Rebel 747R

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2005 2:00 PM
Subject: Re: Tank Sealants

I've never heard of a nitrogen purge for an end user and I dug up a lot
of info on proseal.
Seal it and put it in the deep freeze if you have one and it is good for
a long time. Warm it before opening so it doesn't condense moisture.
Yes the B2 grade is what MAM ships.
I used a triple beam balance which is good for 0.1 gm to measure mine. A
lot of the affordable electronic scales don't really have the the
accuracy/resolution for small batches. I think some folks have rigged up
a simple homemade 10:1 balance beam.
Ken

Mike Betti wrote:

On this subject, I started working on the wings and in the begining of
construction they want you to put proseal under the section of spar cap
that
is in the fuel tank. I have a quart of proseal and it says not to store

it

unless closing the can and purging with nitrogen. That doesn't seem too
practical so what do you do? Do I need to buy a smaller quanity just for
this area? Or do I work around it until the need for more proseal

arrives?

And if I do tap my can, how do you measure such a small quanity given

the

10-1 ratio? What have other done? I bought 2B, is that the right stuff?
Thanks,
Mike Betti
771 Elite

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David Ricker · Post by **David Ricker** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:13 am

Ken

The caulking tube really is the hot tip, check my web site for the link to the
supplier, look under wings.

Cheers,

Dave

Jean Poirier wrote:

Hello

I have buy a mail balance at Office Depot for $49.95. It make both grams
and once. Easier in gram! I mix the /$?%&/%" stuff in empty small yogourt
pot and use it with a popsicle stick for small batch. For biggest job, I
have buy empty caulking tube, I cut them to +/- 4" long before fill. work
well if anything could work well with that "/$?%&/%/ stuff!

Jean
Rebel 747R

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2005 2:00 PM
Subject: Re: Tank Sealants

I've never heard of a nitrogen purge for an end user and I dug up a lot
of info on proseal.
Seal it and put it in the deep freeze if you have one and it is good for
a long time. Warm it before opening so it doesn't condense moisture.
Yes the B2 grade is what MAM ships.
I used a triple beam balance which is good for 0.1 gm to measure mine. A
lot of the affordable electronic scales don't really have the the
accuracy/resolution for small batches. I think some folks have rigged up
a simple homemade 10:1 balance beam.
Ken

Mike Betti wrote:

On this subject, I started working on the wings and in the begining of
construction they want you to put proseal under the section of spar cap
that
is in the fuel tank. I have a quart of proseal and it says not to store it
unless closing the can and purging with nitrogen. That doesn't seem too
practical so what do you do? Do I need to buy a smaller quanity just for
this area? Or do I work around it until the need for more proseal arrives?
And if I do tap my can, how do you measure such a small quanity given the
10-1 ratio? What have other done? I bought 2B, is that the right stuff?
Thanks,
Mike Betti
771 Elite

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Fall River, Nova Scotia
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