Rebel- 912 performance - improvements

[Bob Patterson]

Hi Ian !

The Rebel wheel pants make good mud catchers - NO speed difference,
and they prevent you from standing on the tire for refuelling !

Strut fairings would be worthwhile - cut some patterns in Bristol board
first - then transfer to 1/8

[Legeorgen]

Bobp,

Where did you hear the 2 blade warp drive recommendation for the 912 Rotax?
All the 912's I'm aware of, Kitfox mostly (including my own 912S Kitfox),
have the three blades. And they perform like rockets! I don't think I've ever
seen a 2 blade Warp Drive on a 912.

Bruce




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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

I have a two blade Warp on the one I have here under refurb. Most do run the
three blade though, but the moment of inertia is over the max recomended by
Rotax. I would also question a 2 blade on the 100HP 912. I know a guy that
had one on a corvair engine in this power range and the blades cavitated.
Three blade fixed the problem.

Back to the couch, Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@aol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2005 10:07 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel- 912 performance - improvements

Bobp,

Where did you hear the 2 blade warp drive recommendation for the 912

Rotax?

All the 912's I'm aware of, Kitfox mostly (including my own 912S Kitfox),
have the three blades. And they perform like rockets! I don't think I've

ever

seen a 2 blade Warp Drive on a 912.

Bruce




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[IAN DONALDSON]

G'day Bob


Thanks for the info regarding wheel pants. I have actually made one and it
was such a pain to fit on I threw it in the bin! I must admit that the tyre
is handy to stand on.

The Rebel wheel pants make good mud catchers - NO speed difference,
and they prevent you from standing on the tire for refuelling !

Strut fairings would be worthwhile -. >
\

I have actually made fairings from aluminum but could not work out how to
join them at the rear. I did not want to rivet them together as it would
look rather crude. Any ideas?

Gear leg, and inner gear tube fairings can be made the same way, and
will greatly reduce drag ! The reason I used Lexan was - it was
cheaper
and easier to work than aluminum, and - I could see through to locate my
holes !

Hmmm! lexan is quite a bit dearer here than non structural aluminum, but I
agree that Lexan would be an easy way to make fairings. I must make lexan
inspection covers for under the wing.

I would definitely fine up your prop pitch - sounds like you might
even get better fuel economy, as you are now

[Bob Patterson]

Hi Ian !

The fairings will look nice & clean if you add that extra fold at the
top rear, and tuck the bottom skin inside it - the rivet heads will all be
on the inside, and you

[Bob Patterson]

Hi Bruce !

[Ken]

Hmmm- gears- clutches/dampers -torsional vibrations
Staying within the factory recommendations would be significant peace of
mind for me. Granted that if lots of these are running around with no
problems then it tends to confirm that the factory is being
conservative. Or then again the manufacturing tolerances, balance, and
wear on your particular installation might be the one that the
conservative numbers were meant to address... Knowing in advance what
the tested and validated safe range for my (ej22/marcotte) gearbox is
would be worth serious money to me.
Ken

Bob Patterson wrote:

[quote]Hi Bruce !

Learned about Rotax

[IAN DONALDSON]

G'day Bob




[quote]
Hi Ian !

The fairings will look nice & clean if you add that extra fold at the
top rear, and tuck the bottom skin inside it - the rivet heads will all be
on the inside, and you