Deburring

[John Kramer]

I've been using a scotchbrite wheel on a drill which seems to smooth the
holes fast and easy. Is this a bad idea?

John...


At 12:20 PM 01/26/05, you wrote:

be careful using this deburing tool that is spring loaded and does both
sides of material
yes it works great when it works but as it is used and gets dirty or
slightly bent it jams an then cuts a hole to big for a 1/8 rivet, i had this
happen and had to use alot of 5/32 rivets on some parts, but when it work
good it was great just watch it very closely or you have problems and you
may not notice till you go to rivet
can be purchased at aircraft tool supply company for 79.95, here is link to
page, called two-way deburring toll #td001

http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/searc ... x?PageNo=3
mike#007

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Al
Paxhia
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 1:13 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: deburring


I did top and bottom holes and would recommend it. There is a slick deburing

tool that has a spring loaded cutter, debur the top, push it through and
debur the bottom. Ill dig around and find the source (I got mine from Boeing

Surplus several years ago).
Al
Moose, N526AP
----- Original Message -----
From: <mbetti@up.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 5:52 AM
Subject: deburring

I don't want to sound stupid but I would like to clarify something on
deburing skins. I'm on the stab and figure I can pass on what I learn here

to the rest of the project. After drilling the stab skin to final size I'm

getting ready to debur. The 5/16 drill bit by hand works great and is fast

for the bottom of the hole. My question is the top of the skin, it seems
the holes are pretty clean already. I can rub my finger over them and
don't really notice any raised edges. I'm using a pretty fast air drill.
Do I still need to put a little chamfer on them too? Is the group here
still running a bit over all those clean holes on the skins or is this
probably acceptable.
Thanks,
Mike Betti
771E



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[Drew Dalgleish]

I hope not thats how I did a lot of the holes on my floats. Preps them for
the sikaflex at the same time.

At 12:38 PM 1/26/2005 -0600, you wrote:

I've been using a scotchbrite wheel on a drill which seems to smooth the
holes fast and easy. Is this a bad idea?

John...

Drew





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[Bob Patterson]

Hi John !

Definitely the fastest way to deburr - but best only on inside surfaces,
as the scuff marks will show on the outside, even through paint.

......bobp

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Wednesday 26 January 2005 01:38 pm, John Kramer wrote:

I've been using a scotchbrite wheel on a drill which seems to smooth the
holes fast and easy. Is this a bad idea?

John...

At 12:20 PM 01/26/05, you wrote:

be careful using this deburing tool that is spring loaded and does both
sides of material
yes it works great when it works but as it is used and gets dirty or
slightly bent it jams an then cuts a hole to big for a 1/8 rivet, i had
this happen and had to use alot of 5/32 rivets on some parts, but when it
work good it was great just watch it very closely or you have problems
and you may not notice till you go to rivet
can be purchased at aircraft tool supply company for 79.95, here is link
to page, called two-way deburring toll #td001

http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/searc ... x?PageNo=3
mike#007

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Al
Paxhia
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 1:13 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: deburring


I did top and bottom holes and would recommend it. There is a slick
deburing

tool that has a spring loaded cutter, debur the top, push it through and
debur the bottom. Ill dig around and find the source (I got mine from
Boeing

Surplus several years ago).
Al
Moose, N526AP
----- Original Message -----
From: <mbetti@up.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 5:52 AM
Subject: deburring

I don't want to sound stupid but I would like to clarify something on
deburing skins. I'm on the stab and figure I can pass on what I learn
here

to the rest of the project. After drilling the stab skin to final size
I'm

getting ready to debur. The 5/16 drill bit by hand works great and is
fast

for the bottom of the hole. My question is the top of the skin, it
seems the holes are pretty clean already. I can rub my finger over them
and don't really notice any raised edges. I'm using a pretty fast air
drill. Do I still need to put a little chamfer on them too? Is the
group here still running a bit over all those clean holes on the skins
or is this probably acceptable.
Thanks,
Mike Betti
771E



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[Bobby Sather]

Bob, Off the subject, but do you know Bill Kingston?
Thank You
Bobby Sather

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Bob Patterson
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 12:38 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: deburring


Hi John !

Definitely the fastest way to deburr - but best only on inside
surfaces,
as the scuff marks will show on the outside, even through paint.

......bobp

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Wednesday 26 January 2005 01:38 pm, John Kramer wrote:

I've been using a scotchbrite wheel on a drill which seems to smooth

the

holes fast and easy. Is this a bad idea?

John...

At 12:20 PM 01/26/05, you wrote:

be careful using this deburing tool that is spring loaded and does

both

sides of material
yes it works great when it works but as it is used and gets dirty or
slightly bent it jams an then cuts a hole to big for a 1/8 rivet, i

had

this happen and had to use alot of 5/32 rivets on some parts, but

when it

work good it was great just watch it very closely or you have

problems

and you may not notice till you go to rivet
can be purchased at aircraft tool supply company for 79.95, here is

link

to page, called two-way deburring toll #td001

http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/searc ... x?PageNo=3
mike#007

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of

Al

Paxhia
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 1:13 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: deburring


I did top and bottom holes and would recommend it. There is a slick
deburing

tool that has a spring loaded cutter, debur the top, push it through

and

debur the bottom. Ill dig around and find the source (I got mine from
Boeing

Surplus several years ago).
Al
Moose, N526AP
----- Original Message -----
From: <mbetti@up.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 5:52 AM
Subject: deburring

I don't want to sound stupid but I would like to clarify something

on

deburing skins. I'm on the stab and figure I can pass on what I

learn

here

to the rest of the project. After drilling the stab skin to final

size

I'm

getting ready to debur. The 5/16 drill bit by hand works great and

is

fast

for the bottom of the hole. My question is the top of the skin, it
seems the holes are pretty clean already. I can rub my finger over

them

and don't really notice any raised edges. I'm using a pretty fast

air

drill. Do I still need to put a little chamfer on them too? Is the
group here still running a bit over all those clean holes on the

skins

or is this probably acceptable.
Thanks,
Mike Betti
771E



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disseminate,

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[Jones, Michael]

be careful using this deburing tool that is spring loaded and does both
sides of material
yes it works great when it works but as it is used and gets dirty or
slightly bent it jams an then cuts a hole to big for a 1/8 rivet, i had this
happen and had to use alot of 5/32 rivets on some parts, but when it work
good it was great just watch it very closely or you have problems and you
may not notice till you go to rivet
can be purchased at aircraft tool supply company for 79.95, here is link to
page, called two-way deburring toll #td001

http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/searc ... x?PageNo=3
mike#007

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Al
Paxhia
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 1:13 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: deburring


I did top and bottom holes and would recommend it. There is a slick deburing

tool that has a spring loaded cutter, debur the top, push it through and
debur the bottom. Ill dig around and find the source (I got mine from Boeing

Surplus several years ago).
Al
Moose, N526AP
----- Original Message -----
From: <mbetti@up.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 5:52 AM
Subject: deburring

I don't want to sound stupid but I would like to clarify something on
deburing skins. I'm on the stab and figure I can pass on what I learn here

to the rest of the project. After drilling the stab skin to final size I'm

getting ready to debur. The 5/16 drill bit by hand works great and is fast

for the bottom of the hole. My question is the top of the skin, it seems
the holes are pretty clean already. I can rub my finger over them and
don't really notice any raised edges. I'm using a pretty fast air drill.
Do I still need to put a little chamfer on them too? Is the group here
still running a bit over all those clean holes on the skins or is this
probably acceptable.
Thanks,
Mike Betti
771E



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[pollock]

Mike

If you looked with a magnifying glass on the holes that are not debured
,there would be multiple fracture on the lip.Proper deburring cleans away
stress point preventing cracks and allowing the surface to mate tight.

Bill
Moose 244
----- Original Message -----
From: "Al Paxhia" <paxhia2@comcast.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 1:29 PM
Subject: Re: deburring

I would also add that for skins I use a dowel handle and turn the tool by
hand. On thicker material a battery powered screwdriver works well, but be
careful.
Al
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jones, Michael" <MJones@hatch.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 10:20 AM
Subject: RE: deburring

be careful using this deburing tool that is spring loaded and does both
sides of material
yes it works great when it works but as it is used and gets dirty or
slightly bent it jams an then cuts a hole to big for a 1/8 rivet, i had
this
happen and had to use alot of 5/32 rivets on some parts, but when it work
good it was great just watch it very closely or you have problems and you
may not notice till you go to rivet
can be purchased at aircraft tool supply company for 79.95, here is link
to
page, called two-way deburring toll #td001

http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/searc ... x?PageNo=3
mike#007

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Al
Paxhia
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 1:13 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: deburring


I did top and bottom holes and would recommend it. There is a slick
deburing

tool that has a spring loaded cutter, debur the top, push it through and
debur the bottom. Ill dig around and find the source (I got mine from
Boeing

Surplus several years ago).
Al
Moose, N526AP
----- Original Message -----
From: <mbetti@up.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 5:52 AM
Subject: deburring

I don't want to sound stupid but I would like to clarify something on
deburing skins. I'm on the stab and figure I can pass on what I learn
here

to the rest of the project. After drilling the stab skin to final size
I'm

getting ready to debur. The 5/16 drill bit by hand works great and is
fast

for the bottom of the hole. My question is the top of the skin, it seems
the holes are pretty clean already. I can rub my finger over them and
don't really notice any raised edges. I'm using a pretty fast air drill.
Do I still need to put a little chamfer on them too? Is the group here
still running a bit over all those clean holes on the skins or is this
probably acceptable.
Thanks,
Mike Betti
771E



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[mbetti]

I don't want to sound stupid but I would like to clarify something on deburing skins. I'm on the stab and figure I can pass on what I learn here to the rest of the project. After drilling the stab skin to final size I'm getting ready to debur. The 5/16 drill bit by hand works great and is fast for the bottom of the hole. My question is the top of the skin, it seems the holes are pretty clean already. I can rub my finger over them and don't really notice any raised edges. I'm using a pretty fast air drill. Do I still need to put a little chamfer on them too? Is the group here still running a bit over all those clean holes on the skins or is this probably acceptable.
Thanks,
Mike Betti
771E



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[Al Paxhia]

I did top and bottom holes and would recommend it. There is a slick deburing
tool that has a spring loaded cutter, debur the top, push it through and
debur the bottom. Ill dig around and find the source (I got mine from Boeing
Surplus several years ago).
Al
Moose, N526AP
----- Original Message -----
From: <mbetti@up.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 5:52 AM
Subject: deburring

I don't want to sound stupid but I would like to clarify something on
deburing skins. I'm on the stab and figure I can pass on what I learn here
to the rest of the project. After drilling the stab skin to final size I'm
getting ready to debur. The 5/16 drill bit by hand works great and is fast
for the bottom of the hole. My question is the top of the skin, it seems
the holes are pretty clean already. I can rub my finger over them and
don't really notice any raised edges. I'm using a pretty fast air drill.
Do I still need to put a little chamfer on them too? Is the group here
still running a bit over all those clean holes on the skins or is this
probably acceptable.
Thanks,
Mike Betti
771E



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[Jean Poirier]

Hello to all!
I am using "Scothbrite type) from Sait for all the deburrring. I use the
blue one , in Sait that mean "fine". I use them on a mini angle die
grinder. You have to be carefull and use it at a slow speed. Skin are
have a very "souft touch " after. But...... A friend of mine who is also
an "inspector" (not mine) show somw reserve.... He asked me if the very
small cracks are removed with that process .... As far as I see everything
look ok! I have use a magnifier and it is look ok. I plan to doublr
check with a microscope to be sure. I do not think that some "bevel" that
are made with drills are much better but I am not an expert. For sure I
will push the research further I am will post the results

If you use fine type, after primer no marks stay there ...
Jean
Rebel 747R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 2:38 PM
Subject: Re: deburring

Hi John !

Definitely the fastest way to deburr - but best only on inside surfaces,
as the scuff marks will show on the outside, even through paint.

......bobp

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Wednesday 26 January 2005 01:38 pm, John Kramer wrote:

I've been using a scotchbrite wheel on a drill which seems to smooth the
holes fast and easy. Is this a bad idea?

John...

At 12:20 PM 01/26/05, you wrote:

be careful using this deburing tool that is spring loaded and does both
sides of material
yes it works great when it works but as it is used and gets dirty or
slightly bent it jams an then cuts a hole to big for a 1/8 rivet, i had
this happen and had to use alot of 5/32 rivets on some parts, but when
it
work good it was great just watch it very closely or you have problems
and you may not notice till you go to rivet
can be purchased at aircraft tool supply company for 79.95, here is
link
to page, called two-way deburring toll #td001

http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/searc ... x?PageNo=3
mike#007

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Al
Paxhia
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 1:13 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: deburring


I did top and bottom holes and would recommend it. There is a slick
deburing

tool that has a spring loaded cutter, debur the top, push it through and
debur the bottom. Ill dig around and find the source (I got mine from
Boeing

Surplus several years ago).
Al
Moose, N526AP
----- Original Message -----
From: <mbetti@up.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 5:52 AM
Subject: deburring
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Fly too low or too slow and the ground will rise up and smite thee.






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[bransom]

I can't figure using scotchbrite for deburring -- I thought that was just for
scuffing and cleaning surfaces. At risk of piling on, I'll pile on with
those recommending the single flute bits for deburring holes. It is very
easy to do, very easy to not over-do, and especially with the plastic coating
still on surfaces you can even be somewhat reckless in quickly popping hole
after hole, after hole, after hole afterholeaftherholeafterhole......
-Ben

Hello to all!
I am using "Scothbrite type) from Sait for all the deburrring. I use the
blue one , in Sait that mean "fine". I use them on a mini angle die
grinder. You have to be carefull and use it at a slow speed. Skin are
have a very "souft touch " after. But...... A friend of mine who is also
an "inspector" (not mine) show somw reserve.... He asked me if the very
small cracks are removed with that process .... As far as I see

everything

look ok! I have use a magnifier and it is look ok. I plan to doublr
check with a microscope to be sure. I do not think that some "bevel" that
are made with drills are much better but I am not an expert. For sure I
will push the research further I am will post the results

If you use fine type, after primer no marks stay there ...
Jean
Rebel 747R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 2:38 PM
Subject: Re: deburring

Hi John !

Definitely the fastest way to deburr - but best only on inside surfaces,
as the scuff marks will show on the outside, even through paint.

......bobp

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Wednesday 26 January 2005 01:38 pm, John Kramer wrote:

I've been using a scotchbrite wheel on a drill which seems to smooth the
holes fast and easy. Is this a bad idea?

John...

At 12:20 PM 01/26/05, you wrote: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Fly too low or too slow and the ground will rise up and smite thee.






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[Ralph Baker]

Mike, you do not want to champfer at all. drryl has been quoted that
the most common builders mistake is "over deburring". If it is smooth
thats it. If you want to, a fine cut flat file over the surface will
make sure.
Ralph Baker



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[Ralph Baker]

Terry,
Boeing surplus (near you!) has the two way deburring tools occasionally
in their surplus store at 25 cents each. Beats the about $50 ACS wants.
Well used but generally serviceable ones can be found with a little
looking. Might be worth your time brokering them when it's not out of
your way. They do work well. On th other hand they make poor back
scratchers, unlike Wayne's suggestion.
Ralph Baker



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[Terry Dazey]

Hello Ralph:

I was at Boeing Surplus recently and the pickens ain't what it used to be
compared to ten years ago. The past years, Boeing has been outsourcing more
and more projects to overseas companies which makes the pick of the
"surplus/ used" tools and parts pretty thin now. Consequently, used tools
are not as plentiful as they were. You need to be "Jonny-on-the-spot" to get
the good ones as they are offered to the public. The good ones get picked
over pretty quick as you can imagine.

Also, years ago Boeing stopped selling AN hardware because of the liability
issues. Consequently, no AN bolts, nuts, washers etc. for sale. You can
still get aluminum, bar stock and material similar stuff. There again, luck
is on your side if you find something you are looking for. If you can find
what you are looking for, typically prices are very good! If you are a
Boeing employee or retired employee, they give an extra discount at the cash
register.

As far as the back scratcher . . . I suppose I could stop by there and
scrounge and old 737 throttle interlock mechanism and make my own . . .
cheap.

Terry Dazey
Rebel 662
Bonney Lake, Washington USA

Boeing surplus (near you!) has the two way deburring tools occasionally
in their surplus store at 25 cents each. Beats the about $50 ACS wants.
Well used but generally serviceable ones can be found with a little
looking. Might be worth your time brokering them when it's not out of
your way. They do work well. On th other hand they make poor back
scratchers, unlike Wayne's suggestion.

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[Mike Davis]

----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Basic
To: mike.davis@dcsol.com
Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2011 11:18 AM
Subject: Deburring


You also can use a cordless screwdriver eg. Millwaukee,on low speed with a deburring bit mounted on screwdriver bit shaft. Very ease to control & not tiring.Clevland Tool Supply has this great bit.



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