Hi Again
Someone asked me to list all the mods I knew of or did on my aircraft so
here we go. Most of them are Wayne's or Murphys or off the list. Some
might be overkill but that's the fun of it all, Right? Some of these might
not be perceved as mods but have not been mentioned in the construction
manuel.
1. Fus 452's (.032) used on all four lower corners
2. Fus 33 made from .032 and used between bulkhead A to F
3. .063 corner doublers on bulkhead A installed with AN bolts
4. Fus 25 .032 used in and out
5. Fus 26 .040
6. Fus 30 .032 tail cone reinforcement
7. .032 tail spar support
8. .063 firewall plates as pr Irish Field float mod
9. .040 channel used between upper engine mount bolts
10.1/4" X 2" angle support spring gear bolts
11.Fus 9 discarded and new one built overlapping area of fus root (area of
.032 reinforcing plate mod) plus shapped corner gusset ( all one
piece) much cleaner appearance
12.Double row offset rivets on door post.
13..040 angle upper engine mount along side doubler from firewall to witches
hat.
14. .040 angle supports dash to firewall
15. .032 doublers on dashboard corners
16. Front lower fus 452 continued under floor to act as doubler for lower
engine mount and rudder peddles.
17.wider .032 channels used under floor to pick up both rivet rows on seat
rails.
18. .032 sheet behind seats in cargo area
19..032 channel used in all door sill area
20. .032 wing leading edge vaccuum formed and installed with counter sunk
rivets
21. .016 covering used inside between bulkhead A and F. No rear window
22.Fus 70 .025 used on all four upper corners
23. Wider .040 angle used for fus 35 and installed with double row rivets
(between fus 26 and bottom outer skin)
24..032 doubler around rear fus wing fitting.
25. All bottom skins chromated inside from firewall to tail cone
26. Yet to be done elevator and rudder corner reinforcements
Have lots of other little things that are slight add ons that most everyone
has talked about at one time or another that are not really mods.
Wayne, if I missed anything that you feel is important, please jump in.
Steve W.
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Rebel #637 Mods
-
Wayne G. O'Shea
Rebel #637 Mods
Now here's a guy that's been paying attention!!!! Great list Steve ! Few
things are overkill...but like you say part of the fun/personalization of
the project.
Nice to see someone was actually paying attention about the dashboard
corners..it's stuctural integity and habit of buckling at the bend corner
"cutouts".
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2005 11:08 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel #637 Mods
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things are overkill...but like you say part of the fun/personalization of
the project.
Nice to see someone was actually paying attention about the dashboard
corners..it's stuctural integity and habit of buckling at the bend corner
"cutouts".
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2005 11:08 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel #637 Mods
mightHi Again
Someone asked me to list all the mods I knew of or did on my aircraft so
here we go. Most of them are Wayne's or Murphys or off the list. Some
might be overkill but that's the fun of it all, Right? Some of these
witchesnot be perceved as mods but have not been mentioned in the construction
manuel.
1. Fus 452's (.032) used on all four lower corners
2. Fus 33 made from .032 and used between bulkhead A to F
3. .063 corner doublers on bulkhead A installed with AN bolts
4. Fus 25 .032 used in and out
5. Fus 26 .040
6. Fus 30 .032 tail cone reinforcement
7. .032 tail spar support
8. .063 firewall plates as pr Irish Field float mod
9. .040 channel used between upper engine mount bolts
10.1/4" X 2" angle support spring gear bolts
11.Fus 9 discarded and new one built overlapping area of fus root (area of
.032 reinforcing plate mod) plus shapped corner gusset ( all one
piece) much cleaner appearance
12.Double row offset rivets on door post.
13..040 angle upper engine mount along side doubler from firewall to
everyonehat.
14. .040 angle supports dash to firewall
15. .032 doublers on dashboard corners
16. Front lower fus 452 continued under floor to act as doubler for lower
engine mount and rudder peddles.
17.wider .032 channels used under floor to pick up both rivet rows on seat
rails.
18. .032 sheet behind seats in cargo area
19..032 channel used in all door sill area
20. .032 wing leading edge vaccuum formed and installed with counter sunk
rivets
21. .016 covering used inside between bulkhead A and F. No rear window
22.Fus 70 .025 used on all four upper corners
23. Wider .040 angle used for fus 35 and installed with double row rivets
(between fus 26 and bottom outer skin)
24..032 doubler around rear fus wing fitting.
25. All bottom skins chromated inside from firewall to tail cone
26. Yet to be done elevator and rudder corner reinforcements
Have lots of other little things that are slight add ons that most
has talked about at one time or another that are not really mods.
Wayne, if I missed anything that you feel is important, please jump in.
Steve W.
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Ken
Rebel #637 Mods
Wow and some more even come to mind like possibly a brass bushing in the
lower rudder pivot bearing and a retractable rear fuselage handle. Of
course a lot of these things are entirely optional depending on the
intended use of the airplane.
item 17 is in the manual now I think but with back to back U channels
under the seat rails.
I would be interested in an expanded description of item 20 on how you
vacuum formed the leading edges. Sounds interesting.
Ken
steve whitenect wrote:
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lower rudder pivot bearing and a retractable rear fuselage handle. Of
course a lot of these things are entirely optional depending on the
intended use of the airplane.
item 17 is in the manual now I think but with back to back U channels
under the seat rails.
I would be interested in an expanded description of item 20 on how you
vacuum formed the leading edges. Sounds interesting.
Ken
steve whitenect wrote:
Hi Again
Someone asked me to list all the mods I knew of or did on my aircraft so
here we go. Most of them are Wayne's or Murphys or off the list. Some
might be overkill but that's the fun of it all, Right? Some of these might
not be perceved as mods but have not been mentioned in the construction
manuel.
1. Fus 452's (.032) used on all four lower corners
2. Fus 33 made from .032 and used between bulkhead A to F
3. .063 corner doublers on bulkhead A installed with AN bolts
4. Fus 25 .032 used in and out
5. Fus 26 .040
6. Fus 30 .032 tail cone reinforcement
7. .032 tail spar support
8. .063 firewall plates as pr Irish Field float mod
9. .040 channel used between upper engine mount bolts
10.1/4" X 2" angle support spring gear bolts
11.Fus 9 discarded and new one built overlapping area of fus root (area of
.032 reinforcing plate mod) plus shapped corner gusset ( all one
piece) much cleaner appearance
12.Double row offset rivets on door post.
13..040 angle upper engine mount along side doubler from firewall to witches
hat.
14. .040 angle supports dash to firewall
15. .032 doublers on dashboard corners
16. Front lower fus 452 continued under floor to act as doubler for lower
engine mount and rudder peddles.
17.wider .032 channels used under floor to pick up both rivet rows on seat
rails.
18. .032 sheet behind seats in cargo area
19..032 channel used in all door sill area
20. .032 wing leading edge vaccuum formed and installed with counter sunk
rivets
21. .016 covering used inside between bulkhead A and F. No rear window
22.Fus 70 .025 used on all four upper corners
23. Wider .040 angle used for fus 35 and installed with double row rivets
(between fus 26 and bottom outer skin)
24..032 doubler around rear fus wing fitting.
25. All bottom skins chromated inside from firewall to tail cone
26. Yet to be done elevator and rudder corner reinforcements
Have lots of other little things that are slight add ons that most everyone
has talked about at one time or another that are not really mods.
Wayne, if I missed anything that you feel is important, please jump in.
Steve W.
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-
steve whitenect
Rebel #637 Mods
Hi Ken
Use the original leading edge for a template and copy all holes; both blank
sheets underneath and drilled at the same time. Center the original on the
full 4X12' sheet as you will need some working metal along the edges. The
rest is done one sheet at a time. U need a 14' piece of iron pipe about 1
1/2 diameter. Clamp the sheet between the pipe and a peice of 14' 2X4----
2" side against the sheet where the minimum radius is (nose of the leading
edge). Bring the long edges of the sheet together in a tear drop shape. Two
13' lengths of strapping and sandwich the edges between the strapping with
screws to hold everything in place. Actually screw one piece of strapping
along each edge and then roll over and join them together to make the tear
drop shape. Make sures that the pipe and 2X4 are reasonably straight. Lay
on flat table and cover with 4-6 mil plastic sheet. Either tape to the
table or wrap it completely in a bag. Introduce the vaccuum (Moma's carpet
tank works fine!) in an area where there will be less chance of it going
flat before the rest of the bag- usually around the pipe and 2x4 area.
Sounds like baking a cake! .032 is thick enough that u can use a counter
sink cutter with the 120* rivets. Don't counter sink before bagging the
sheet. You shud be working with 3/32 holes. Take Care
Steve W.
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Use the original leading edge for a template and copy all holes; both blank
sheets underneath and drilled at the same time. Center the original on the
full 4X12' sheet as you will need some working metal along the edges. The
rest is done one sheet at a time. U need a 14' piece of iron pipe about 1
1/2 diameter. Clamp the sheet between the pipe and a peice of 14' 2X4----
2" side against the sheet where the minimum radius is (nose of the leading
edge). Bring the long edges of the sheet together in a tear drop shape. Two
13' lengths of strapping and sandwich the edges between the strapping with
screws to hold everything in place. Actually screw one piece of strapping
along each edge and then roll over and join them together to make the tear
drop shape. Make sures that the pipe and 2X4 are reasonably straight. Lay
on flat table and cover with 4-6 mil plastic sheet. Either tape to the
table or wrap it completely in a bag. Introduce the vaccuum (Moma's carpet
tank works fine!) in an area where there will be less chance of it going
flat before the rest of the bag- usually around the pipe and 2x4 area.
Sounds like baking a cake! .032 is thick enough that u can use a counter
sink cutter with the 120* rivets. Don't counter sink before bagging the
sheet. You shud be working with 3/32 holes. Take Care
Steve W.
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Bob Patterson
Rebel #637 Mods
Hi Steve !
For anyone who doesn't want to do all this work, you <could> just order
a set of Elite leading edge skins (they are .032, and pre-formed & punched,
ready to install). Apparently, the only reason for making them .032 was
so they couldn't be as easily dented while refuelling !!! Never had that
problem with a Rebel, but .....
As for the countersinking - to each his own, but I've always contended
that the raised rivet heads are built-in vortex generators... ;-^) :-)
(The turbulator tape applied to glider wings (& propellor leading edges) has
bumps that are less than 1/8" high, and that seems to work for some !)
............bobp
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Saturday 08 January 2005 12:38 pm, steve whitenect wrote:
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For anyone who doesn't want to do all this work, you <could> just order
a set of Elite leading edge skins (they are .032, and pre-formed & punched,
ready to install). Apparently, the only reason for making them .032 was
so they couldn't be as easily dented while refuelling !!! Never had that
problem with a Rebel, but .....
As for the countersinking - to each his own, but I've always contended
that the raised rivet heads are built-in vortex generators... ;-^) :-)
(The turbulator tape applied to glider wings (& propellor leading edges) has
bumps that are less than 1/8" high, and that seems to work for some !)
............bobp
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Saturday 08 January 2005 12:38 pm, steve whitenect wrote:
Hi Ken
Use the original leading edge for a template and copy all holes; both blank
sheets underneath and drilled at the same time. Center the original on the
full 4X12' sheet as you will need some working metal along the edges. The
rest is done one sheet at a time. U need a 14' piece of iron pipe about 1
1/2 diameter. Clamp the sheet between the pipe and a peice of 14' 2X4----
2" side against the sheet where the minimum radius is (nose of the leading
edge). Bring the long edges of the sheet together in a tear drop shape.
Two 13' lengths of strapping and sandwich the edges between the strapping
with screws to hold everything in place. Actually screw one piece of
strapping along each edge and then roll over and join them together to make
the tear drop shape. Make sures that the pipe and 2X4 are reasonably
straight. Lay on flat table and cover with 4-6 mil plastic sheet. Either
tape to the table or wrap it completely in a bag. Introduce the vaccuum
(Moma's carpet tank works fine!) in an area where there will be less chance
of it going flat before the rest of the bag- usually around the pipe and
2x4 area. Sounds like baking a cake! .032 is thick enough that u can use a
counter sink cutter with the 120* rivets. Don't counter sink before bagging
the sheet. You shud be working with 3/32 holes. Take Care
Steve W.
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Ken
Rebel #637 Mods
Thanks steve
I'm still chuckling at the ingenuity and simplicity.
If you hadn't already done it I'd be very skeptical of getting it right
the first time ;)
I knew a few guys had purchased the 0.032 Elite leading edges but I
didn't know anybody had made their own!
Ken
steve whitenect wrote:
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I'm still chuckling at the ingenuity and simplicity.
If you hadn't already done it I'd be very skeptical of getting it right
the first time ;)
I knew a few guys had purchased the 0.032 Elite leading edges but I
didn't know anybody had made their own!
Ken
steve whitenect wrote:
Hi Ken
Use the original leading edge for a template and copy all holes; both blank
sheets underneath and drilled at the same time. Center the original on the
full 4X12' sheet as you will need some working metal along the edges. The
rest is done one sheet at a time. U need a 14' piece of iron pipe about 1
1/2 diameter. Clamp the sheet between the pipe and a peice of 14' 2X4----
2" side against the sheet where the minimum radius is (nose of the leading
edge). Bring the long edges of the sheet together in a tear drop shape. Two
13' lengths of strapping and sandwich the edges between the strapping with
screws to hold everything in place. Actually screw one piece of strapping
along each edge and then roll over and join them together to make the tear
drop shape. Make sures that the pipe and 2X4 are reasonably straight. Lay
on flat table and cover with 4-6 mil plastic sheet. Either tape to the
table or wrap it completely in a bag. Introduce the vaccuum (Moma's carpet
tank works fine!) in an area where there will be less chance of it going
flat before the rest of the bag- usually around the pipe and 2x4 area.
Sounds like baking a cake! .032 is thick enough that u can use a counter
sink cutter with the 120* rivets. Don't counter sink before bagging the
sheet. You shud be working with 3/32 holes. Take Care
Steve W.
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steve whitenect
Rebel #637 Mods
Hi Ken
It was fun and I bet alot cheaper to make. I can't remember exactly how long
it took to make them but I had them done in one day and yes, got it right
the first time! I get alot of satisfaction making things for myself. Anyone
can buy them!
Steve W.
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It was fun and I bet alot cheaper to make. I can't remember exactly how long
it took to make them but I had them done in one day and yes, got it right
the first time! I get alot of satisfaction making things for myself. Anyone
can buy them!
Steve W.
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Wayne G. O'Shea
Rebel #637 Mods
And those 24" x 12' strips of aluminum are around $700 Cdn each in .020
version from MAM. Guess you have a spare set of leading edges in .020
Steve?? Good to know where spare parts are located in case someone buckles
one or goes tree cutting.
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2005 1:00 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel #637 Mods
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version from MAM. Guess you have a spare set of leading edges in .020
Steve?? Good to know where spare parts are located in case someone buckles
one or goes tree cutting.
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2005 1:00 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel #637 Mods
longHi Ken
It was fun and I bet alot cheaper to make. I can't remember exactly how
Anyoneit took to make them but I had them done in one day and yes, got it right
the first time! I get alot of satisfaction making things for myself.
can buy them!
Steve W.
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steve whitenect
Rebel #637 Mods
Hi Bob
Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought a clean leading edge from the top of
the large spar around to a foot or so under the front of the wing was
desireable for undestirbed air flow. If trying to create an air flow tight
to the wing with generators ahead of the large spar, haven't you already
stalled!?
Steve
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Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought a clean leading edge from the top of
the large spar around to a foot or so under the front of the wing was
desireable for undestirbed air flow. If trying to create an air flow tight
to the wing with generators ahead of the large spar, haven't you already
stalled!?
Steve
From: Bob Patterson <beep@sympatico.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Rebel #637 Mods
Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2005 13:34:35 -0500
Hi Steve !
For anyone who doesn't want to do all this work, you <could> just order
a set of Elite leading edge skins (they are .032, and pre-formed & punched,
ready to install). Apparently, the only reason for making them .032 was
so they couldn't be as easily dented while refuelling !!! Never had that
problem with a Rebel, but .....
As for the countersinking - to each his own, but I've always contended
that the raised rivet heads are built-in vortex generators... ;-^)
:-)
(The turbulator tape applied to glider wings (& propellor leading edges)
has
bumps that are less than 1/8" high, and that seems to work for some !)
............bobp
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Saturday 08 January 2005 12:38 pm, steve whitenect wrote:blankHi Ken
Use the original leading edge for a template and copy all holes; boththesheets underneath and drilled at the same time. Center the original onThefull 4X12' sheet as you will need some working metal along the edges.1rest is done one sheet at a time. U need a 14' piece of iron pipe about2X4----1/2 diameter. Clamp the sheet between the pipe and a peice of 14'leading2" side against the sheet where the minimum radius is (nose of thestrappingedge). Bring the long edges of the sheet together in a tear drop shape.
Two 13' lengths of strapping and sandwich the edges between themakewith screws to hold everything in place. Actually screw one piece of
strapping along each edge and then roll over and join them together toEitherthe tear drop shape. Make sures that the pipe and 2X4 are reasonably
straight. Lay on flat table and cover with 4-6 mil plastic sheet.chancetape to the table or wrap it completely in a bag. Introduce the vaccuum
(Moma's carpet tank works fine!) in an area where there will be lessaof it going flat before the rest of the bag- usually around the pipe and
2x4 area. Sounds like baking a cake! .032 is thick enough that u can usebaggingcounter sink cutter with the 120* rivets. Don't counter sink beforethe sheet. You shud be working with 3/32 holes. Take Care
Steve W.
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steve whitenect
Rebel #637 Mods
Hi Wayne
I think I got the two sheets of 4x12 .032 from Ideal Atlas metals in
Edmonton for about $150. That was three years ago...
Steve
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I think I got the two sheets of 4x12 .032 from Ideal Atlas metals in
Edmonton for about $150. That was three years ago...
Steve
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Rebel #637 Mods
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2005 13:11:30 -0500
And those 24" x 12' strips of aluminum are around $700 Cdn each in .020
version from MAM. Guess you have a spare set of leading edges in .020
Steve?? Good to know where spare parts are located in case someone buckles
one or goes tree cutting.
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2005 1:00 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel #637 Mods
longHi Ken
It was fun and I bet alot cheaper to make. I can't remember exactly howrightit took to make them but I had them done in one day and yes, got itAnyonethe first time! I get alot of satisfaction making things for myself.can buy them!
Steve W.
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Wayne G. O'Shea
Rebel #637 Mods
Yes..I know how cheap you can buy sheet. Just pointing out the cost if you
want the work done for you. Do you still have the .020 leading edges hanging
in your shop?
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2005 1:18 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel #637 Mods
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want the work done for you. Do you still have the .020 leading edges hanging
in your shop?
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2005 1:18 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel #637 Mods
bucklesHi Wayne
I think I got the two sheets of 4x12 .032 from Ideal Atlas metals in
Edmonton for about $150. That was three years ago...
Steve
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Rebel #637 Mods
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2005 13:11:30 -0500
And those 24" x 12' strips of aluminum are around $700 Cdn each in .020
version from MAM. Guess you have a spare set of leading edges in .020
Steve?? Good to know where spare parts are located in case someone
howone or goes tree cutting.
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2005 1:00 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel #637 Mods
Hi Ken
It was fun and I bet alot cheaper to make. I can't remember exactly
longrightit took to make them but I had them done in one day and yes, got itAnyonethe first time! I get alot of satisfaction making things for myself.can buy them!
Steve W.
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steve whitenect
Rebel #637 Mods
Yes I do
U called me a number of years ago about them when I advertized them on
Barnstormers. It's nice to have a rough idea what they are worth! I have
some other stuff that I only used as templates Fus 9's, 25,26 etc. Wonder
what a front spar was worth after I screwed up the first long row of rivets?
Had some .020 scrap 12' long. Made a brake with my table, 6 hindges and a
12' piece of 2x4 and a hole cutter. Back in business the same nite.
Steve W.
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U called me a number of years ago about them when I advertized them on
Barnstormers. It's nice to have a rough idea what they are worth! I have
some other stuff that I only used as templates Fus 9's, 25,26 etc. Wonder
what a front spar was worth after I screwed up the first long row of rivets?
Had some .020 scrap 12' long. Made a brake with my table, 6 hindges and a
12' piece of 2x4 and a hole cutter. Back in business the same nite.
Steve W.
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Rebel #637 Mods
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2005 13:23:32 -0500
Yes..I know how cheap you can buy sheet. Just pointing out the cost if you
want the work done for you. Do you still have the .020 leading edges
hanging
in your shop?
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2005 1:18 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel #637 Mods
bucklesHi Wayne
I think I got the two sheets of 4x12 .032 from Ideal Atlas metals in
Edmonton for about $150. That was three years ago...
Steve
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Rebel #637 Mods
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2005 13:11:30 -0500
And those 24" x 12' strips of aluminum are around $700 Cdn each in .020
version from MAM. Guess you have a spare set of leading edges in .020
Steve?? Good to know where spare parts are located in case someonehowone or goes tree cutting.
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2005 1:00 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel #637 Mods
myself.long rightAnyone
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