Epoxy primer

Mike Betti · Post by **Mike Betti** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:58 am

What does a person usually need to measure epoxy primer during assembly,
a spoon?? How much is needed at one time?? I plan on brushing.
Mike Betti

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Wayne G. O'Shea · Post by **Wayne G. O'Shea** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:58 am

Mike...you can steal your wife's metal measuring spoons if you want to be
exact. Buy her a new set before you do though. After you've mixed enough of
it you will find a simple tablespoon will do the trick and you can be
accurate enough even when you only need one spoon full. When doing most
sections it's usually about 2tbsp epoxy to 1tbsp catalyst to go far enough
for what you're putting together and enough left to dip the rivets. You'll
get the hang of how far it will go after a few trials. You can buy a day or
so with left overs by throwing in the fridge covered up or in film
canisters. When I want left overs to be the same consistency for the next
day I always put a light skim of thinner in the container once I've set it
in it's storage spot and then cover.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Betti" <mbetti@up.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 01, 2005 8:06 PM
Subject: Epoxy primer

What does a person usually need to measure epoxy primer during assembly,
a spoon?? How much is needed at one time?? I plan on brushing.
Mike Betti

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Ralph Baker · Post by **Ralph Baker** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:58 am

Mike,
I used a 1:1 primer and found that stainless steel round bowl commercial
measuring spoons from a restaurant supply house worked fine. The handle
is bent to 90 degrees to the bowl to make dipping easier. How much to
mix depends on the size of the job. You will soon develop a feel for
it. I would start with no more than two total onces. The primer can be
kept a day or so in a freezer if it has not set out too long. I like to
put the container in a zip close plastic bag to minimize condensation.
Go to a "craft store" and get a bag of popsicle sticks to mix the epoxy
with.

Do not mix in anything except a glass cup or the plastic cups sold at
auto paint suppliers for mixing 2 part paints. For some reason that
plastic is not affected by the chemicals. I personally prefer the glass
cups available at the same restaurant supply. Get ones which have
rounded bottoms and are easier to clean. Never use waxed or general
plastic cups!

Please don't be offended if I remind you not to cross contaminate your
resin with hardener by using the same dipper without through cleaning.
Better two dippers!
Ralph Baker

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Wayne G. O'Shea · Post by **Wayne G. O'Shea** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:58 am

I've been using movie theater "coke" cups and McDonalds "kiddy" cups for 10+
years. If coke won't eat thru them nothing will. I've never seen as much as
a hint of the cup interior deteriorating using EP420/430 and the nice thing
is you can cut the cup down to about an inch in height so it doesnt' tip
over and easy to dip rivets in.

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph Baker" <rebaker@ftc-i.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 01, 2005 9:34 PM
Subject: epoxy primer

Mike,
I used a 1:1 primer and found that stainless steel round bowl commercial
measuring spoons from a restaurant supply house worked fine. The handle
is bent to 90 degrees to the bowl to make dipping easier. How much to
mix depends on the size of the job. You will soon develop a feel for
it. I would start with no more than two total onces. The primer can be
kept a day or so in a freezer if it has not set out too long. I like to
put the container in a zip close plastic bag to minimize condensation.
Go to a "craft store" and get a bag of popsicle sticks to mix the epoxy
with.

Do not mix in anything except a glass cup or the plastic cups sold at
auto paint suppliers for mixing 2 part paints. For some reason that
plastic is not affected by the chemicals. I personally prefer the glass
cups available at the same restaurant supply. Get ones which have
rounded bottoms and are easier to clean. Never use waxed or general
plastic cups!

Please don't be offended if I remind you not to cross contaminate your
resin with hardener by using the same dipper without through cleaning.
Better two dippers!
Ralph Baker

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Drew Dalgleish · Post by **Drew Dalgleish** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:58 am

At 07:06 PM 1/1/2005 -0600, you wrote:

What does a person usually need to measure epoxy primer during assembly,
a spoon?? How much is needed at one time?? I plan on brushing.
Mike Betti

I used a couple syringes to suck the primer out of the can and graduated
plastic mixing cups to get the ratio right. Bought both at lee valley
tools. You can leave the syringes lying around part full for a long time.
The cups are easy to clean after the epoxy sets up it chips off easily. For
brushes I used to cut up peices of sponge and then grip that with a clothes
pin. Throw it away when you're done. If you do it this way you'll rarely
need to use any solvents for clean up.
Drew

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brad · Post by **brad** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:58 am

Mike,

I went to Walmart and bought the cheapest smallest disposable
food storage containers. Mixes a few tablespoons well and has an air tight
lid. Seems if you store the mixed primer in a fridge it lasts 3-4 days.

I have also found that it is easier to wipe the primer on with a clean rag
rather than using a paint brush.

Brad Hewlett (R195)

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-> What does a person usually need to measure epoxy primer during assembly,
-> a spoon?? How much is needed at one time?? I plan on brushing.
-> Mike Betti
->

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Jesse Jenks · Post by **Jesse Jenks** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:58 am

I save my paper coffee cups from Starbucks etc. I've been doing that for
years to mix West Systems epoxy for woodworking, and even though they are
waxed, I've never seen a problem. If you want the mix to set up faster just
leave a little coffee in. Plus, it gives you a good excuse for a coffee
break when you need a mixing cup. Like Wayne sais, I cut them down to a
couple inches high too.
Jesse

From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: epoxy primer
Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2005 21:44:00 -0500

I've been using movie theater "coke" cups and McDonalds "kiddy" cups for
10+
years. If coke won't eat thru them nothing will. I've never seen as much as
a hint of the cup interior deteriorating using EP420/430 and the nice thing
is you can cut the cup down to about an inch in height so it doesnt' tip
over and easy to dip rivets in.

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph Baker" <rebaker@ftc-i.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 01, 2005 9:34 PM
Subject: epoxy primer

Mike,
I used a 1:1 primer and found that stainless steel round bowl commercial
measuring spoons from a restaurant supply house worked fine. The handle
is bent to 90 degrees to the bowl to make dipping easier. How much to
mix depends on the size of the job. You will soon develop a feel for
it. I would start with no more than two total onces. The primer can be
kept a day or so in a freezer if it has not set out too long. I like to
put the container in a zip close plastic bag to minimize condensation.
Go to a "craft store" and get a bag of popsicle sticks to mix the epoxy
with.

Do not mix in anything except a glass cup or the plastic cups sold at
auto paint suppliers for mixing 2 part paints. For some reason that
plastic is not affected by the chemicals. I personally prefer the glass
cups available at the same restaurant supply. Get ones which have
rounded bottoms and are easier to clean. Never use waxed or general
plastic cups!

Please don't be offended if I remind you not to cross contaminate your
resin with hardener by using the same dipper without through cleaning.
Better two dippers!
Ralph Baker

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Mike Kimball · Post by **Mike Kimball** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:58 am

I used 30 ml syringes that can be purchased from medical supply houses for
little money. Veterinary supply houses may also have them and may be
cheaper. 2 to 1 is easy to figure out when your syringes are graduated.
Epoxy chromate in one syringe and hardener in the other, of course. I used
a plastic oil drain pan to mix. I set the drain pan on the workbench with a
small piece of wood under one edge so the stuff would stay against one side
of the pan. After you work with it for a while you get really good at
deciding how much to mix up for the job at hand. I was able to reuse each
syringe many times before they got too gummed up. Then I would just throw
them away and open a new one. You never have any left over to worry about.
I kept my eyes open for sales on 1 inch foam brushes at hardware stores and
craft stores and then I bought a whole bunch of them. I would use them to
apply the epoxy chromate, then the brush was perfect for spinning each rivet
before setting them. Throw them away after one use. Don't forget to get a
piece of wooden dowl, about 1/2 inch I think, and cut about a six inch
piece. Then drill a hole in the end large enough for the mandrel from a
3/16 rivet to fit in easily. Use the dowl to insert those stubborn rivets
that just don't want to slide into your hole easily. One size hole in the
dowl works just fine for the smaller rivets as well.

Whatever you do, make sure you clean up the wet chromate after riveting. I
didn't do that very well and I am now faced with a huge job sanding or
scraping cured epoxy chromate. Just lightly wet a rag with Acetone and wipe
it off.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Mike Betti
Sent: Saturday, January 01, 2005 4:06 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Epoxy primer

What does a person usually need to measure epoxy primer during assembly,
a spoon?? How much is needed at one time?? I plan on brushing.
Mike Betti

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dmp · Post by **dmp** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:58 am

On 1 Jan 2005 at 21:34, Ralph Baker wrote:

I used a 1:1 primer and found that stainless steel round bowl commercial
measuring spoons from a restaurant supply house worked fine. The handle
is bent to 90 degrees to the bowl to make dipping easier. How much to
mix depends on the size of the job. You will soon develop a feel for

For rivet dipping, I like to use plastic 35mm film cans. They hold about the right
amount, seal well for storage in the freezer and once the epoxy becomes too thick to
use, they clean very easily. I use the cap as my dipping well and a pair of 25ml
syringes to measure epoxy.

---
David Parrish

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bransom · Post by **bransom** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:58 am

I miss the 35mm film cans more than my 35mm camera. :/
-Ben (digital is too easy)

For rivet dipping, I like to use plastic 35mm film cans. They hold about

the right

amount, seal well for storage in the freezer and once the epoxy becomes too

thick to

use, they clean very easily. I use the cap as my dipping well and a pair of

25ml

syringes to measure epoxy.

---
David Parrish

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Ralph Baker · Post by **Ralph Baker** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:24 am

Wayne (and others):
The strontium chromate primer we use is covered by the following data.
It is two part epoxy and the thinner is the high humidity, blush
resistant type. One of the two companies mentioned bought the other
(don't remember which) but they should be able to cross reference.

Pratt & Lambert high solids epoxy thinner 110-059.
Pratt & Lambert epoxy primer curing agent P610421.
Sherwin Williams corrosion protective epoxy primer CM0483660.

The mix ratio is 2 resin to 1 curing agent. Mix throughly and wait 20
minutes. Then thin about 25% to spray.
Do not spray without a mask rated for this service! Read the mask
canister data and be sure.
Ralph Baker

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Keith Leitch · Post by **Keith Leitch** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:41 pm

I'm in the process of building my wings and need to
spray the parts with primer. I did the tail section
with Stits EP420/430. Of course I didn't ship it here
with the rest of the supplies.

My problem is I am in Hawaii and none of the
suppliers have any here and when checking on ordering
any, the Hazardous fee for shipping to Hawaii was
rediculous. (One supplier said $100 on top of
shipping)

And all I need is a quart. Is there any thing I can
get at an auto supply store or hardware store that is
good to use? I will be putting my Rebel on floats
eventually and have been trying to do everything right
the first time.

Thanks,
Keith R661

__________________________________________
Yahoo! DSL

Ken · Post by **Ken** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:41 pm

Hi Keith
I believe that any epoxy primer you get from a automobile supplier is
entirely adequate if not just as good as the PolyFiber stuff. I used a
1.5 gallon kit of U-tech (product of Akzo Nobel) recently that was also
cheaper than 2 quarts of the poly fiber. This stuff is available from
most manufacturers and is used on aluminum trucks etc. There is no
chromate in any of it anymore near as I can tell. My supplier did offer
to break the kit into smaller quantity if I needed a bit more.
Ken

Keith Leitch wrote:

I'm in the process of building my wings and need to
spray the parts with primer. I did the tail section
with Stits EP420/430. Of course I didn't ship it here
with the rest of the supplies.

My problem is I am in Hawaii and none of the
suppliers have any here and when checking on ordering
any, the Hazardous fee for shipping to Hawaii was
rediculous. (One supplier said $100 on top of
shipping)

And all I need is a quart. Is there any thing I can
get at an auto supply store or hardware store that is
good to use? I will be putting my Rebel on floats
eventually and have been trying to do everything right
the first time.

Thanks,
Keith R661

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Mike Davis · Post by **Mike Davis** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:41 pm

My local source is an automotive paint supply store... might be worth
calling a few of those.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Leitch" <im_planecrazy@yahoo.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 2:07 PM
Subject: Epoxy Primer

I'm in the process of building my wings and need to
spray the parts with primer. I did the tail section
with Stits EP420/430. Of course I didn't ship it here
with the rest of the supplies.

My problem is I am in Hawaii and none of the
suppliers have any here and when checking on ordering
any, the Hazardous fee for shipping to Hawaii was
rediculous. (One supplier said $100 on top of
shipping)

And all I need is a quart. Is there any thing I can
get at an auto supply store or hardware store that is
good to use? I will be putting my Rebel on floats
eventually and have been trying to do everything right
the first time.

Thanks,
Keith R661

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Rich Dodson · Post by **Rich Dodson** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:41 pm

Hi Keith,

I have lived near salt water for all of my life, mostly recently in the highly corrosive SE Texas area. The local IA had some good paint advice for me based on his 20 years of working on helos for Gulf oil platforms which I intend to use on my plane. Saltwater is certainly far worse than freshwater on aluminum.

A good auto primer works fine. In fact, I watched him use several auto products, even from a spray can for small jobs, routinely. But the key difference in what he did was to hit the parts with a light finish coat (complete coverage but not heavy) of white auto paint. He did this on the interiors of helo airframes and it really made a difference in longevity he said.

He used white paint so that when he looked for corrosion with a flashlight at a shallow angle, any corroded area which bubbled the paint caused it to cast small shadows.

I took a couple of trips around Oahu in rental aicraft in 2004 - I am jealous of the fun you are going to have.

Best Wishes,
Rich

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