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Setting up shop
Setting up shop
Hi all,
I'm still waiting for my Elite kit to arrive, supposed to be in the next
couple weeks. Any way, I'm in the process of setting up shop for
construction.
When it comes to cutting spars or heavy pieces of aluminum, what is the
cutter of choice? I was thinking of putting a fine tooth blade on my
upright bandsaw? Or how about cut off wheels?
Mike Betti
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I'm still waiting for my Elite kit to arrive, supposed to be in the next
couple weeks. Any way, I'm in the process of setting up shop for
construction.
When it comes to cutting spars or heavy pieces of aluminum, what is the
cutter of choice? I was thinking of putting a fine tooth blade on my
upright bandsaw? Or how about cut off wheels?
Mike Betti
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Setting up shop
Mike...there will be no spars to cut...at least you better not be! As for
the thicker sheet...by some quality wood blades in widths to suit straight
or curved cuts. Basically any power tool you use for wood working will cut
alum just fine. I use a miter saw for all my channel/angle etc.
Cheers and happy building,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Betti" <mbetti@up.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2004 10:40 PM
Subject: Setting up shop
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the thicker sheet...by some quality wood blades in widths to suit straight
or curved cuts. Basically any power tool you use for wood working will cut
alum just fine. I use a miter saw for all my channel/angle etc.
Cheers and happy building,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Betti" <mbetti@up.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2004 10:40 PM
Subject: Setting up shop
Hi all,
I'm still waiting for my Elite kit to arrive, supposed to be in the next
couple weeks. Any way, I'm in the process of setting up shop for
construction.
When it comes to cutting spars or heavy pieces of aluminum, what is the
cutter of choice? I was thinking of putting a fine tooth blade on my
upright bandsaw? Or how about cut off wheels?
Mike Betti
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Setting up shop
In a message dated 12/15/2004 9:49:57 PM Central Standard Time,
oifa@irishfield.on.ca writes:
Basically any power tool you use for wood working will cut
alum just fine. I use a miter saw for all my channel/angle etc.
MIKE
Like Wayne said that's about it in a nut shell. I use a band saw a lot on
aluminum, thin fine tooth blade. And a disc / belt combo sander. there's a lot
of radiuses to do, touch it on the sander and clean it up with you're file.
Instead of filing from scratch.
PS- When you use the power miter saw put on some ear protection! Eye
protection is a no brainier.
PDSmith
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oifa@irishfield.on.ca writes:
Basically any power tool you use for wood working will cut
alum just fine. I use a miter saw for all my channel/angle etc.
MIKE
Like Wayne said that's about it in a nut shell. I use a band saw a lot on
aluminum, thin fine tooth blade. And a disc / belt combo sander. there's a lot
of radiuses to do, touch it on the sander and clean it up with you're file.
Instead of filing from scratch.
PS- When you use the power miter saw put on some ear protection! Eye
protection is a no brainier.
PDSmith
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Setting up shop
What'ya say Phil??
----- Original Message -----
From: <LisaFly99@aol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2004 11:00 PM
Subject: Re: Setting up shop
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----- Original Message -----
From: <LisaFly99@aol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2004 11:00 PM
Subject: Re: Setting up shop
PS- When you use the power miter saw put on some ear protection! > PDSmith
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Setting up shop
Hello from Calgary
There are specific jig saw blades made especially for aluminum. Find them
and use them, you'll be glad you did. Of course you aren't going to use a
jig saw for everything. Aluminum sticks in the teeth of the blade making it
a little wider and jamming it up.
Good Luck
Murray
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
LisaFly99@aol.com
Sent: December 15, 2004 9:00 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Setting up shop
In a message dated 12/15/2004 9:49:57 PM Central Standard Time,
oifa@irishfield.on.ca writes:
Basically any power tool you use for wood working will cut
alum just fine. I use a miter saw for all my channel/angle etc.
MIKE
Like Wayne said that's about it in a nut shell. I use a band saw a lot on
aluminum, thin fine tooth blade. And a disc / belt combo sander. there's a
lot
of radiuses to do, touch it on the sander and clean it up with you're file.
Instead of filing from scratch.
PS- When you use the power miter saw put on some ear protection! Eye
protection is a no brainier.
PDSmith
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There are specific jig saw blades made especially for aluminum. Find them
and use them, you'll be glad you did. Of course you aren't going to use a
jig saw for everything. Aluminum sticks in the teeth of the blade making it
a little wider and jamming it up.
Good Luck
Murray
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
LisaFly99@aol.com
Sent: December 15, 2004 9:00 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Setting up shop
In a message dated 12/15/2004 9:49:57 PM Central Standard Time,
oifa@irishfield.on.ca writes:
Basically any power tool you use for wood working will cut
alum just fine. I use a miter saw for all my channel/angle etc.
MIKE
Like Wayne said that's about it in a nut shell. I use a band saw a lot on
aluminum, thin fine tooth blade. And a disc / belt combo sander. there's a
lot
of radiuses to do, touch it on the sander and clean it up with you're file.
Instead of filing from scratch.
PS- When you use the power miter saw put on some ear protection! Eye
protection is a no brainier.
PDSmith
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Setting up shop
Go into a Busy Bee tool or similar outfit and buy a jug of oil that you mix
about 30 to 1 with water (gives just enough oil to keep things...like your
tool bed/cutters... from rusting). Used for milling or lathing. Works
wonders and makes the difference of a clogged and burnt mill cutter to one
that stays clean and sharp. Sure it would probably do the same on the saw
blade.
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Murray & Carol Cherkas" <cherkas@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2004 9:25 PM
Subject: RE: Setting up shop
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about 30 to 1 with water (gives just enough oil to keep things...like your
tool bed/cutters... from rusting). Used for milling or lathing. Works
wonders and makes the difference of a clogged and burnt mill cutter to one
that stays clean and sharp. Sure it would probably do the same on the saw
blade.
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Murray & Carol Cherkas" <cherkas@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2004 9:25 PM
Subject: RE: Setting up shop
itHello from Calgary
There are specific jig saw blades made especially for aluminum. Find them
and use them, you'll be glad you did. Of course you aren't going to use a
jig saw for everything. Aluminum sticks in the teeth of the blade making
ona little wider and jamming it up.
Good Luck
Murray
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
LisaFly99@aol.com
Sent: December 15, 2004 9:00 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Setting up shop
In a message dated 12/15/2004 9:49:57 PM Central Standard Time,
oifa@irishfield.on.ca writes:
Basically any power tool you use for wood working will cut
alum just fine. I use a miter saw for all my channel/angle etc.
MIKE
Like Wayne said that's about it in a nut shell. I use a band saw a lot
aaluminum, thin fine tooth blade. And a disc / belt combo sander. there's
file.lot
of radiuses to do, touch it on the sander and clean it up with you're
Instead of filing from scratch.
PS- When you use the power miter saw put on some ear protection! Eye
protection is a no brainier.
PDSmith
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Setting up shop
In the past there's been a lot of good advise about tools on this list. I
don't remember if this has been mentioned, but a good magnet on a 3 foot broom
stick beats the heck out of a broom for cleaning up those mandrels. Or maybe
it's just a known fact.
PDSmith
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don't remember if this has been mentioned, but a good magnet on a 3 foot broom
stick beats the heck out of a broom for cleaning up those mandrels. Or maybe
it's just a known fact.
PDSmith
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Setting up shop
I'm also told, by Brent at MAM, that Doall industrial puts out an awesome
tool wax (Toolsaver) P/N RAM24000001 Bout $12-14 a tube, but lasts a very
long time.
On the water/oil mix I just put it in a 1.99 spray bottle and squirt it on
while cutting. On the mill I can recycle most of it from the bed drain holes
into a small container. On my lathe... someday I'll get my tank and spray
tube functioning....but for now I just squirt and let the stuff drain into
my tank (for use when I do get it hooked up).
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2004 9:36 PM
Subject: Re: Setting up shop
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tool wax (Toolsaver) P/N RAM24000001 Bout $12-14 a tube, but lasts a very
long time.
On the water/oil mix I just put it in a 1.99 spray bottle and squirt it on
while cutting. On the mill I can recycle most of it from the bed drain holes
into a small container. On my lathe... someday I'll get my tank and spray
tube functioning....but for now I just squirt and let the stuff drain into
my tank (for use when I do get it hooked up).
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2004 9:36 PM
Subject: Re: Setting up shop
mixGo into a Busy Bee tool or similar outfit and buy a jug of oil that you
themabout 30 to 1 with water (gives just enough oil to keep things...like your
tool bed/cutters... from rusting). Used for milling or lathing. Works
wonders and makes the difference of a clogged and burnt mill cutter to one
that stays clean and sharp. Sure it would probably do the same on the saw
blade.
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Murray & Carol Cherkas" <cherkas@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2004 9:25 PM
Subject: RE: Setting up shop
Hello from Calgary
There are specific jig saw blades made especially for aluminum. Find
aand use them, you'll be glad you did. Of course you aren't going to use
itjig saw for everything. Aluminum sticks in the teeth of the blade makingona little wider and jamming it up.
Good Luck
Murray
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
LisaFly99@aol.com
Sent: December 15, 2004 9:00 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Setting up shop
In a message dated 12/15/2004 9:49:57 PM Central Standard Time,
oifa@irishfield.on.ca writes:
Basically any power tool you use for wood working will cut
alum just fine. I use a miter saw for all my channel/angle etc.
MIKE
Like Wayne said that's about it in a nut shell. I use a band saw a lotaaluminum, thin fine tooth blade. And a disc / belt combo sander. there'sfile.lot
of radiuses to do, touch it on the sander and clean it up with you'reInstead of filing from scratch.
PS- When you use the power miter saw put on some ear protection! Eye
protection is a no brainier.
PDSmith
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Setting up shop
Is the shrinker / stretcher a necesary tool in the building of the Elite.
Still waiting for kit,
Mike Betti
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, December 17, 2004 2:06 PM
Subject: Re: Setting up shop
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Still waiting for kit,
Mike Betti
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, December 17, 2004 2:06 PM
Subject: Re: Setting up shop
holesI'm also told, by Brent at MAM, that Doall industrial puts out an awesome
tool wax (Toolsaver) P/N RAM24000001 Bout $12-14 a tube, but lasts a very
long time.
On the water/oil mix I just put it in a 1.99 spray bottle and squirt it on
while cutting. On the mill I can recycle most of it from the bed drain
yourinto a small container. On my lathe... someday I'll get my tank and spray
tube functioning....but for now I just squirt and let the stuff drain into
my tank (for use when I do get it hooked up).
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2004 9:36 PM
Subject: Re: Setting up shop
mixGo into a Busy Bee tool or similar outfit and buy a jug of oil that youabout 30 to 1 with water (gives just enough oil to keep things...like
onetool bed/cutters... from rusting). Used for milling or lathing. Works
wonders and makes the difference of a clogged and burnt mill cutter to
sawthat stays clean and sharp. Sure it would probably do the same on the
usethemblade.
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Murray & Carol Cherkas" <cherkas@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2004 9:25 PM
Subject: RE: Setting up shop
Hello from Calgary
There are specific jig saw blades made especially for aluminum. Findand use them, you'll be glad you did. Of course you aren't going to
makingajig saw for everything. Aluminum sticks in the teeth of the blade
lotita little wider and jamming it up.
Good Luck
Murray
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
LisaFly99@aol.com
Sent: December 15, 2004 9:00 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Setting up shop
In a message dated 12/15/2004 9:49:57 PM Central Standard Time,
oifa@irishfield.on.ca writes:
Basically any power tool you use for wood working will cut
alum just fine. I use a miter saw for all my channel/angle etc.
MIKE
Like Wayne said that's about it in a nut shell. I use a band saw a
there'sonaluminum, thin fine tooth blade. And a disc / belt combo sander.
afile.lot
of radiuses to do, touch it on the sander and clean it up with you'reInstead of filing from scratch.
PS- When you use the power miter saw put on some ear protection! Eye
protection is a no brainier.
PDSmith
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Setting up shop
In a message dated 12/17/2004 5:22:53 PM Central Standard Time,
mbetti@up.net writes:
Is the shrinker / stretcher a necesary tool in the building of the Elite.
MIKE
On the Rebel it isn't a must have tool. It does make a few parts easier, but
it really doesn't warrant the price. If you belong to an EAA or RAA chapter
someone probably has one that can be barrowed. On a float kit not the prebuilt
floats it's a must have tool.
PDSmith
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mbetti@up.net writes:
Is the shrinker / stretcher a necesary tool in the building of the Elite.
MIKE
On the Rebel it isn't a must have tool. It does make a few parts easier, but
it really doesn't warrant the price. If you belong to an EAA or RAA chapter
someone probably has one that can be barrowed. On a float kit not the prebuilt
floats it's a must have tool.
PDSmith
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setting up shop
Mike,
You will not need a shrinker/stretcher to build your Elite. You will
need a set of fluting pliers.
Ralph Baker
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You will not need a shrinker/stretcher to build your Elite. You will
need a set of fluting pliers.
Ralph Baker
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Setting up shop
Hi Mike
I haven't started on the wings yet, but on the fuselage the only time I've
used a shrinker is to help the curvature on the bottom of the bottom corner
wraps from the firewall to the cabin area, just forward and under the gear
attach point (taildragger not nosewheel config). I probably could have done
it other ways, but since I have access to a shrinker I thought I'd give it a
try. That's the only place I've come across on the entire fuselage.
Nigel
745E
Derby
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Mike Betti
Sent: 17 December 2004 23:22
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Setting up shop
Is the shrinker / stretcher a necesary tool in the building of the Elite.
Still waiting for kit,
Mike Betti
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, December 17, 2004 2:06 PM
Subject: Re: Setting up shop
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I haven't started on the wings yet, but on the fuselage the only time I've
used a shrinker is to help the curvature on the bottom of the bottom corner
wraps from the firewall to the cabin area, just forward and under the gear
attach point (taildragger not nosewheel config). I probably could have done
it other ways, but since I have access to a shrinker I thought I'd give it a
try. That's the only place I've come across on the entire fuselage.
Nigel
745E
Derby
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Mike Betti
Sent: 17 December 2004 23:22
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Setting up shop
Is the shrinker / stretcher a necesary tool in the building of the Elite.
Still waiting for kit,
Mike Betti
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, December 17, 2004 2:06 PM
Subject: Re: Setting up shop
holesI'm also told, by Brent at MAM, that Doall industrial puts out an awesome
tool wax (Toolsaver) P/N RAM24000001 Bout $12-14 a tube, but lasts a very
long time.
On the water/oil mix I just put it in a 1.99 spray bottle and squirt it on
while cutting. On the mill I can recycle most of it from the bed drain
yourinto a small container. On my lathe... someday I'll get my tank and spray
tube functioning....but for now I just squirt and let the stuff drain into
my tank (for use when I do get it hooked up).
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2004 9:36 PM
Subject: Re: Setting up shop
mixGo into a Busy Bee tool or similar outfit and buy a jug of oil that youabout 30 to 1 with water (gives just enough oil to keep things...like
onetool bed/cutters... from rusting). Used for milling or lathing. Works
wonders and makes the difference of a clogged and burnt mill cutter to
sawthat stays clean and sharp. Sure it would probably do the same on the
usethemblade.
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Murray & Carol Cherkas" <cherkas@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2004 9:25 PM
Subject: RE: Setting up shop
Hello from Calgary
There are specific jig saw blades made especially for aluminum. Findand use them, you'll be glad you did. Of course you aren't going to
makingajig saw for everything. Aluminum sticks in the teeth of the blade
lotita little wider and jamming it up.
Good Luck
Murray
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
LisaFly99@aol.com
Sent: December 15, 2004 9:00 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Setting up shop
In a message dated 12/15/2004 9:49:57 PM Central Standard Time,
oifa@irishfield.on.ca writes:
Basically any power tool you use for wood working will cut
alum just fine. I use a miter saw for all my channel/angle etc.
MIKE
Like Wayne said that's about it in a nut shell. I use a band saw a
there'sonaluminum, thin fine tooth blade. And a disc / belt combo sander.
afile.lot
of radiuses to do, touch it on the sander and clean it up with you'reInstead of filing from scratch.
PS- When you use the power miter saw put on some ear protection! Eye
protection is a no brainier.
PDSmith
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Setting up shop
Nigel et-al,
That corner wrap is the same where I found the shrinker to be very useful.
Also, all those sheet metal parts that MAM stamps out a right angle along a
curved surface (wing roots,firewall,top of instrument panel,etc.) and hence
are basically warped by the excess metal existing along the curved flange
can be made flat again by a small amount shrinking along the flange. Of
course you can take out the excess metal with fluting pliers but then
riveting along the hills and valleys is a problem.
Jack
SR193
No.Calif.
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That corner wrap is the same where I found the shrinker to be very useful.
Also, all those sheet metal parts that MAM stamps out a right angle along a
curved surface (wing roots,firewall,top of instrument panel,etc.) and hence
are basically warped by the excess metal existing along the curved flange
can be made flat again by a small amount shrinking along the flange. Of
course you can take out the excess metal with fluting pliers but then
riveting along the hills and valleys is a problem.
Jack
SR193
No.Calif.
From: "N.Smith" <admin@airnig.co.uk>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 2004 10:13:30 -0000
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: RE: Setting up shop
Hi Mike
I haven't started on the wings yet, but on the fuselage the only time I've
used a shrinker is to help the curvature on the bottom of the bottom corner
wraps from the firewall to the cabin area, just forward and under the gear
attach point (taildragger not nosewheel config). I probably could have done
it other ways, but since I have access to a shrinker I thought I'd give it a
try. That's the only place I've come across on the entire fuselage.
Nigel
745E
Derby
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Mike Betti
Sent: 17 December 2004 23:22
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Setting up shop
Is the shrinker / stretcher a necesary tool in the building of the Elite.
Still waiting for kit,
Mike Betti
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, December 17, 2004 2:06 PM
Subject: Re: Setting up shop
holesI'm also told, by Brent at MAM, that Doall industrial puts out an awesome
tool wax (Toolsaver) P/N RAM24000001 Bout $12-14 a tube, but lasts a very
long time.
On the water/oil mix I just put it in a 1.99 spray bottle and squirt it on
while cutting. On the mill I can recycle most of it from the bed drainyourinto a small container. On my lathe... someday I'll get my tank and spray
tube functioning....but for now I just squirt and let the stuff drain into
my tank (for use when I do get it hooked up).
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2004 9:36 PM
Subject: Re: Setting up shop
mixGo into a Busy Bee tool or similar outfit and buy a jug of oil that youabout 30 to 1 with water (gives just enough oil to keep things...likeonetool bed/cutters... from rusting). Used for milling or lathing. Works
wonders and makes the difference of a clogged and burnt mill cutter tosawthat stays clean and sharp. Sure it would probably do the same on theusethemblade.
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Murray & Carol Cherkas" <cherkas@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2004 9:25 PM
Subject: RE: Setting up shop
makingalotitthere'sona file.
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Setting up shop
Kerosene is a good lubricant when cutting aluminum with a bandsaw. Ted Hauri
-------------- Original message from "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>: --------------
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-------------- Original message from "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>: --------------
I'm also told, by Brent at MAM, that Doall industrial puts out an awesome
tool wax (Toolsaver) P/N RAM24000001 Bout $12-14 a tube, but lasts a very
long time.
On the water/oil mix I just put it in a 1.99 spray bottle and squirt it on
while cutting. On the mill I can recycle most of it from the bed drain holes
into a small container. On my lathe... someday I'll get my tank and spray
tube functioning....but for now I just squirt and let the stuff drain into
my tank (for use when I do get it hooked up).
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea"
To:
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2004 9:36 PM
Subject: Re: Setting up shop
mixGo into a Busy Bee tool or similar outfit and buy a jug of oil that youthemabout 30 to 1 with water (gives just enough oil to keep things...like your
tool bed/cutters... from rusting). Used for milling or lathing. Works
wonders and makes the difference of a clogged and burnt mill cutter to one
that stays clean and sharp. Sure it would probably do the same on the saw
blade.
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Murray & Carol Cherkas"
To:
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2004 9:25 PM
Subject: RE: Setting up shop
Hello from Calgary
There are specific jig saw blades made especially for aluminum. Findaand use them, you'll be glad you did. Of course you aren't going to useitjig saw for everything. Aluminum sticks in the teeth of the blade makingona little wider and jamming it up.
Good Luck
Murray
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
LisaFly99@aol.com
Sent: December 15, 2004 9:00 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Setting up shop
In a message dated 12/15/2004 9:49:57 PM Central Standard Time,
oifa@irishfield.on.ca writes:
Basically any power tool you use for wood working will cut
alum just fine. I use a miter saw for all my channel/angle etc.
MIKE
Like Wayne said that's about it in a nut shell. I use a band saw a lotaaluminum, thin fine tooth blade. And a disc / belt combo sander. there'sfile.lot
of radiuses to do, touch it on the sander and clean it up with you'reInstead of filing from scratch.
PS- When you use the power miter saw put on some ear protection! Eye
protection is a no brainier.
PDSmith
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Setting up shop
Does it mix well with the brush sparks from a motor?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Hauri" <bosdes@att.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>; <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Cc: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2004 8:49 PM
Subject: Re: Setting up shop
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Hauri" <bosdes@att.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>; <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Cc: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2004 8:49 PM
Subject: Re: Setting up shop
HauriKerosene is a good lubricant when cutting aluminum with a bandsaw. Ted
<oifa@irishfield.on.ca>: ---------------------------- Original message from "Wayne G. O'Shea"
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