Hints

[klehman]

How about we try this then. Please briefly add your idea or corrections and copy
it or send it to the group with the subject "Hints". This is an attempt to
create a list of cautions and hints. It is just some ideas that others may wish
to consider and it has not been approved by MAM. I'll keep a master list up to
date and repost it periodically until someone says to stop or it appears on a
website. We'll assume that the comments refer to the standard Rebel unless you
indicate otherwise. First one is from Doug and I'll add some that I've
collected.

- Need a "Caution note" in the manual when it tells you to drill the
stringers under the skin. Use a drill stop or tape around the drill bit
to keep from going too deep and damaging the curl flange on the stringer.

- the hex drive deburring bit from Cleaveland Aircraft Tool ($11.00) in a
electric screwdriver is helpful. It is a one hole (one cutting edge),
chatterless, 100 degree cutter (not a fluted device). A high speed drill and a
sharp drill bit also reduce the amount of deburring needed. A small smooth file
is helpful for places with difficult access.

- drill all holes #40 first and then enlarge them

- when planning and cutting the fuel tank opening in the wing skin, make sure
you allow enough space for proper rivet edge distance at the aft cut. The rear
tank bulkhead tends to interfere.

- on an "older Rebel" consider upgrading the bottom corner wraps between the
cage and the firewall from .020" thick to the newer .025 or .032" ones that MAM
has available. Some guys also use a thicker than .020 Fus-30 tailcone and a
thicker than .020 Fus-26 (under the door).

- proseal lasts longer in a freezer than in a refrigerator. Make sure it is warm
enough not to condense moisture before you open it. A triple beam scale is
useful for mixing.

- no lubricant on delrin bearings, they might swell, sand them if too tight.

- you can make or buy bungee rings for the conventional gear rather than using
one long piece of bungee material

- consider making the flap handle so that the handle slopes forward and blocks
the view less (a dog leg shape)

- make sure the Rebel has at least 27 degrees ?? of elevator up travel.
Sufficient up travel is more important than down travel.

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[Doug Martin]

To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>

It is unfortunate however that you don't have room in you work area
to do the wing struts prior to putting her on wheels.

A note to all the builders getting close to this stage. If you have the room
in your shop to place the aircraft fuselage perpendicular to the length of
your table(that is turned sideways to the length of your table, not standing
on it's nose!) and install both wings(or even one at a time by moving the
fuse to each end of table) you will do the dihedral (struts) much more
accurate (and easier), than the bull in the manual with the sawhorses and 10
of your friends to hold everything, while you measure cut etc.(you can view
what I mean on our web page, click on custom aircraft completion in the
services section)
I have two holes cut in my table for each of the rear gear pick ups, to
allow placing the fuselage sideways at the center of the 16" long table.
Front gear attach fittings are placed tight against the edge of the table
and screwed to the side of the table. I weight down the fuselage inside to
keep it level during wing installation. Wing installation is done using
"basement beam" adjustable steel jack posts. The jack posts come with steel
plates for each end. The bottom one I weld to the post and then screw it to
a 3' X 3' piece of 3/4" plywood for a steady base. The top has an adjusting
screw and this will allow you to fine tune to get exactly 1 degree dihedral,
with the adjuster screw up against the main spar outboard of the strut
fitting. You are not dependent on anyone to try and hold the wing while you
make the strut and the fuselage is not falling off sawhorses etc. If you
have to do it outside, you can still use the jack posts if you use a digital
level, do both wings at the same time and verify dihedral is 1* relative to
the fuselage.(on a calm day please!) Check the angles 10 times with the
struts fittings C-clamped in place before you drill ON THE AIRCRAFT(at least
2 holes to pin fitting for proper location and angle). The rebuilt aircraft
I just did had an original wing placement of Left 0.7 Deg and Right 3.1 Deg
because of sloppiness on the builders part doing the struts. I'm pretty sure
it probably didn't fly too straight and if it did, the occupants were
sitting a little crooked.
Prior to the wing installation stage I use temporary main gear to roll the
fuselage around the shop. Very simply a piece of wood 1" X 1" about 3 feet
long with a simple furniture caster wheel on the bottom. About 1/2 way up
the 1x1 drill a hole (3/8") to allow bolting them at the strut attach
fitting on each side of the fuselage. This will hold the plane up off the
ground and allow rolling it around(must install tail wheel) at an easier
height to work on windshield etc. Also takes up less room in the shop,
because you don't have the gear sticking out an extra 2 feet on each side.
The very last thing I do to the airframe is install the landing gear, just
prior to engine installation and at this stage all controls, tips, fairings,
fuel lines, etc have been done ready for final assembly at the field. This
means the aircraft only has to be assembled twice and you get to fly it the
second time! I'm really starting to give away my "trade" secrets now, as to
how you can build a Rebel quicker, but if it will help you ladies and
gentlemen to enjoy your Murphy product sooner, I am more than willing!

Doug Martin
greyghost@powernet.net
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between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your following message has been delivered to the 133 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 12:03:48 on 7 Dec 1999.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------


Doug, noticed (that it looks like) you are trying to tabulate HINTS under
its own header so that the builders can search archives for building HINTS.
Looks like a very good idea, but I'm sure everyone that authors the hints
would like their name left on their ideas. You sure don't want to get all
the blame for our bad ones do you?? (seeing your name is now showing at the
bottom people will assume you authored it) I'm sure your efforts will be
much appreciated by all the builders on the list! Wayne

-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Martin <greyghost@powernet.net>
To: Murphy-rebel@dcsol.com <Murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Tuesday, December 07, 1999 10:38 AM
Subject: HINTS

To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>

It is unfortunate however that you don't have room in you work area
to do the wing struts prior to putting her on wheels.

A note to all the builders getting close to this stage. If you have the

room

in your shop to place the aircraft fuselage perpendicular to the length of
your table(that is turned sideways to the length of your table, not

standing

on it's nose!) and install both wings(or even one at a time by moving the
fuse to each end of table) you will do the dihedral (struts) much more
accurate (and easier), than the bull in the manual with the sawhorses and

10

of your friends to hold everything, while you measure cut etc.(you can

view

what I mean on our web page, click on custom aircraft completion in the
services section)
I have two holes cut in my table for each of the rear gear pick ups, to
allow placing the fuselage sideways at the center of the 16" long table.
Front gear attach fittings are placed tight against the edge of the table
and screwed to the side of the table. I weight down the fuselage inside to
keep it level during wing installation. Wing installation is done using
"basement beam" adjustable steel jack posts. The jack posts come with

steel

plates for each end. The bottom one I weld to the post and then screw it

to

a 3' X 3' piece of 3/4" plywood for a steady base. The top has an

adjusting

screw and this will allow you to fine tune to get exactly 1 degree

dihedral,

with the adjuster screw up against the main spar outboard of the strut
fitting. You are not dependent on anyone to try and hold the wing while

you

make the strut and the fuselage is not falling off sawhorses etc. If you
have to do it outside, you can still use the jack posts if you use a

digital

level, do both wings at the same time and verify dihedral is 1* relative

to

the fuselage.(on a calm day please!) Check the angles 10 times with the
struts fittings C-clamped in place before you drill ON THE AIRCRAFT(at

least

2 holes to pin fitting for proper location and angle). The rebuilt

aircraft

I just did had an original wing placement of Left 0.7 Deg and Right 3.1

Deg

because of sloppiness on the builders part doing the struts. I'm pretty

sure

it probably didn't fly too straight and if it did, the occupants were
sitting a little crooked.
Prior to the wing installation stage I use temporary main gear to roll the
fuselage around the shop. Very simply a piece of wood 1" X 1" about 3 feet
long with a simple furniture caster wheel on the bottom. About 1/2 way up
the 1x1 drill a hole (3/8") to allow bolting them at the strut attach
fitting on each side of the fuselage. This will hold the plane up off the
ground and allow rolling it around(must install tail wheel) at an easier
height to work on windshield etc. Also takes up less room in the shop,
because you don't have the gear sticking out an extra 2 feet on each side.
The very last thing I do to the airframe is install the landing gear, just
prior to engine installation and at this stage all controls, tips,

fairings,

fuel lines, etc have been done ready for final assembly at the field. This
means the aircraft only has to be assembled twice and you get to fly it

the

second time! I'm really starting to give away my "trade" secrets now, as

to

how you can build a Rebel quicker, but if it will help you ladies and
gentlemen to enjoy your Murphy product sooner, I am more than willing!

Doug Martin
greyghost@powernet.net
*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*




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[Doug Martin]

Your so correct, I got carried away. I do apologize.
I don't have my listing here, but about a month ago one of our people said
that if we would send in keeper items under the heading "Hints" he would
collect them and put them out to read every so often.

At 12:02 PM 12/7/99 -0500, you wrote:

Doug, noticed (that it looks like) you are trying to tabulate HINTS under
its own header so that the builders can search archives for building HINTS.
Looks like a very good idea, but I'm sure everyone that authors the hints
would like their name left on their ideas. You sure don't want to get all
the blame for our bad ones do you?? (seeing your name is now showing at the
bottom people will assume you authored it) I'm sure your efforts will be
much appreciated by all the builders on the list! Wayne

-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Martin <greyghost@powernet.net>
To: Murphy-rebel@dcsol.com <Murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Tuesday, December 07, 1999 10:38 AM
Subject: HINTS

To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>

It is unfortunate however that you don't have room in you work area
to do the wing struts prior to putting her on wheels.

A note to all the builders getting close to this stage. If you have the

room

in your shop to place the aircraft fuselage perpendicular to the length of
your table(that is turned sideways to the length of your table, not

standing

on it's nose!) and install both wings(or even one at a time by moving the
fuse to each end of table) you will do the dihedral (struts) much more
accurate (and easier), than the bull in the manual with the sawhorses and

10

of your friends to hold everything, while you measure cut etc.(you can

view

what I mean on our web page, click on custom aircraft completion in the
services section)
I have two holes cut in my table for each of the rear gear pick ups, to
allow placing the fuselage sideways at the center of the 16" long table.
Front gear attach fittings are placed tight against the edge of the table
and screwed to the side of the table. I weight down the fuselage inside to
keep it level during wing installation. Wing installation is done using
"basement beam" adjustable steel jack posts. The jack posts come with

steel

plates for each end. The bottom one I weld to the post and then screw it

to

a 3' X 3' piece of 3/4" plywood for a steady base. The top has an

adjusting

screw and this will allow you to fine tune to get exactly 1 degree

dihedral,

with the adjuster screw up against the main spar outboard of the strut
fitting. You are not dependent on anyone to try and hold the wing while

you

make the strut and the fuselage is not falling off sawhorses etc. If you
have to do it outside, you can still use the jack posts if you use a

digital

level, do both wings at the same time and verify dihedral is 1* relative

to

the fuselage.(on a calm day please!) Check the angles 10 times with the
struts fittings C-clamped in place before you drill ON THE AIRCRAFT(at

least

2 holes to pin fitting for proper location and angle). The rebuilt

aircraft

I just did had an original wing placement of Left 0.7 Deg and Right 3.1

Deg

because of sloppiness on the builders part doing the struts. I'm pretty

sure

it probably didn't fly too straight and if it did, the occupants were
sitting a little crooked.
Prior to the wing installation stage I use temporary main gear to roll the
fuselage around the shop. Very simply a piece of wood 1" X 1" about 3 feet
long with a simple furniture caster wheel on the bottom. About 1/2 way up
the 1x1 drill a hole (3/8") to allow bolting them at the strut attach
fitting on each side of the fuselage. This will hold the plane up off the
ground and allow rolling it around(must install tail wheel) at an easier
height to work on windshield etc. Also takes up less room in the shop,
because you don't have the gear sticking out an extra 2 feet on each side.
The very last thing I do to the airframe is install the landing gear, just
prior to engine installation and at this stage all controls, tips,

fairings,

fuel lines, etc have been done ready for final assembly at the field. This
means the aircraft only has to be assembled twice and you get to fly it

the

second time! I'm really starting to give away my "trade" secrets now, as

to

how you can build a Rebel quicker, but if it will help you ladies and
gentlemen to enjoy your Murphy product sooner, I am more than willing!

Doug Martin
greyghost@powernet.net
*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

Doug Martin
greyghost@powernet.net
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between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
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*----------------------------------------------------*




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[Wray Thompson]

About a month back Ken Lehman started gathering hints and posted them. I took those
and added a HINT page to my Rebel site. I've since added a few more including a couple
I parsed from Waynes note.
So Doug or anyone else who would like to contribute to the hint page send the hints
directly to me mailto:wrayt@ibm.net. Try netting the hints out first though to keep
my workload down. TNX ...Wray

Doug Martin wrote:

Your so correct, I got carried away. I do apologize.
I don't have my listing here, but about a month ago one of our people said
that if we would send in keeper items under the heading "Hints" he would
collect them and put them out to read every so often.

At 12:02 PM 12/7/99 -0500, you wrote:

Doug, noticed (that it looks like) you are trying to tabulate HINTS under
its own header so that the builders can search archives for building HINTS.
Looks like a very good idea, but I'm sure everyone that authors the hints

Snip
--
Wray Thompson ...Rebel 306 ...home page http://www.globalserve.net/~cobbg/


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