Tank Leak

[Brent Blue MD]

Andy:

I had a tank leak in the wing I couldn't get to. This occurred in a quick
build wing. The solution that was suggested to me and work was to apply a
vacuum cleaner to the tank and apply slightly thinned proseal to the leak
area. Let it such in for a minute or two depending on the size of leak and
thickness of the proseal. This worked great for me.

A lot better than sloshing.

Brent


At 05:00 PM 11/5/2004, you wrote:

---------- Digest Message #21 ----------
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 2004 18:47:11 -0800 (PST)
From: bowmanout@yahoo.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: fuel tank construction/ maint

Hello,

i have an aluminum welded fuel tank that was leak tested extensively prior
to installation. it was rewelded to cure a few small leaks and retested
and installed. after 15 months of use with av gas, it has started to leak
rapidly from a lower seam after all those months. it has had fuel in it
for 100 percent of that time.

my question is do you rebel guys rely on your prosealed seams or do you
"slosh" your tanks also?

we may be able to proseal the lower seams through the fuel filler, but it
will be a less than pretty result. our other possibility is to pull the
wing and slosh the tank. i guess we could also try sloshing with the wing
installed as the leak is definitely in a seam on the bottom of the tank.

any thoughts or suggestions would be very appreciated. we use av gas in
the wing tanks and blend with auto fuel in the main fuselage tank. anyone
have experience with sloshing materials and there success/failure with av
or auto fuel?

thanks

Andy

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[Pollock]

That sounds like a good idea repairing the fuel tank it would work on floats
as well l guess.What did you use to thin down the proseal?

Bill
Moose 244

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Brent Blue MD
Sent: Saturday, November 06, 2004 12:09 AM
To: rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com
Subject: Tank Leak


Andy:

I had a tank leak in the wing I couldn't get to. This occurred in a quick
build wing. The solution that was suggested to me and work was to apply a
vacuum cleaner to the tank and apply slightly thinned proseal to the leak
area. Let it such in for a minute or two depending on the size of leak and
thickness of the proseal. This worked great for me.

A lot better than sloshing.

Brent


At 05:00 PM 11/5/2004, you wrote:

---------- Digest Message #21 ----------
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 2004 18:47:11 -0800 (PST)
From: bowmanout@yahoo.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: fuel tank construction/ maint

Hello,

i have an aluminum welded fuel tank that was leak tested extensively prior
to installation. it was rewelded to cure a few small leaks and retested
and installed. after 15 months of use with av gas, it has started to leak
rapidly from a lower seam after all those months. it has had fuel in it
for 100 percent of that time.

my question is do you rebel guys rely on your prosealed seams or do you
"slosh" your tanks also?

we may be able to proseal the lower seams through the fuel filler, but it
will be a less than pretty result. our other possibility is to pull the
wing and slosh the tank. i guess we could also try sloshing with the wing
installed as the leak is definitely in a seam on the bottom of the tank.

any thoughts or suggestions would be very appreciated. we use av gas in
the wing tanks and blend with auto fuel in the main fuselage tank. anyone
have experience with sloshing materials and there success/failure with av
or auto fuel?

thanks

Andy

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[Bob Patterson]

Hi Bill !

Thinning ProSeal is not a good idea - but I think he used the
"brushable" Pro-Seal - it's about like honey. Available from Leavens.

The big caveat is - don't seal up the inlet completely - just stuff
the vacuum hose into the tank - or you might collapse it !! The idea is
just to reduce the pressure "a bit", to suck the ProSeal in.

Many builders have used this trick with good success - it can also
help if you have a leaky rivet. Just put a drop or 2 of brushable PS on
the rivet head & wait for it to be sucked in - add another couple of
drops, then turn off the shop vac & wait. :-)

.........bobp

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Saturday 06 November 2004 09:17 am, Pollock wrote:

That sounds like a good idea repairing the fuel tank it would work on
floats as well l guess.What did you use to thin down the proseal?

Bill
Moose 244

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Brent Blue MD
Sent: Saturday, November 06, 2004 12:09 AM
To: rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com
Subject: Tank Leak


Andy:

I had a tank leak in the wing I couldn't get to. This occurred in a quick
build wing. The solution that was suggested to me and work was to apply a
vacuum cleaner to the tank and apply slightly thinned proseal to the leak
area. Let it such in for a minute or two depending on the size of leak and
thickness of the proseal. This worked great for me.

A lot better than sloshing.

Brent

At 05:00 PM 11/5/2004, you wrote:

---------- Digest Message #21 ----------
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 2004 18:47:11 -0800 (PST)
From: bowmanout@yahoo.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: fuel tank construction/ maint

Hello,

i have an aluminum welded fuel tank that was leak tested extensively prior
to installation. it was rewelded to cure a few small leaks and retested
and installed. after 15 months of use with av gas, it has started to leak
rapidly from a lower seam after all those months. it has had fuel in it
for 100 percent of that time.

my question is do you rebel guys rely on your prosealed seams or do you
"slosh" your tanks also?

we may be able to proseal the lower seams through the fuel filler, but it
will be a less than pretty result. our other possibility is to pull the
wing and slosh the tank. i guess we could also try sloshing with the wing
installed as the leak is definitely in a seam on the bottom of the tank.

any thoughts or suggestions would be very appreciated. we use av gas in
the wing tanks and blend with auto fuel in the main fuselage tank. anyone
have experience with sloshing materials and there success/failure with av
or auto fuel?

thanks

Andy

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[Andy Bowman]

hi,

thankyou wayne for the neat suggestion on how to get the wing down off an amphib.

thanks brent for the vacume idea. i am a tad confused about where the vacume cleaner was located. were you sucking proseal into the leak from the outside the tank by locating the hose of the vacume in the gas fill opening? or ? could you explain in detail what you did?

if you want to do this off list to avoid bothering the rest of the folks,
i'm at bowmanout@yahoo.com.

thanks again to all for your assistance on this disappointing situation.

andy


---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Check out the new Yahoo! Front Page. www.yahoo.com



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[David Ricker]

Hi Andy

Just to stick my nose into the discussion ;^), you should think twice about using the vacuum cleaner to draw low pressure on the tank via the filler etc. if it has had gas in it as the shopvac will be a brushed AC motor and therefore will produce a constant spark as long
as it is running. Probably obvious worth mentioning in case it didn't come up.

Cheers,

Dave

Andy Bowman wrote:

hi,

thankyou wayne for the neat suggestion on how to get the wing down off an amphib.

thanks brent for the vacume idea. i am a tad confused about where the vacume cleaner was located. were you sucking proseal into the leak from the outside the tank by locating the hose of the vacume in the gas fill opening? or ? could you explain in detail what you did?

if you want to do this off list to avoid bothering the rest of the folks,
i'm at bowmanout@yahoo.com.

thanks again to all for your assistance on this disappointing situation.

andy


---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Check out the new Yahoo! Front Page. www.yahoo.com

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--
David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada






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[Pollock]

Thanks Bob

The brushable ProSeal would be easier to apply mating large surfaces like
doublers.l will use a small roller to apply evenly and getting away from
buttering the pieces unevenly.

Bill
Moose 244

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Bob
Patterson
Sent: Saturday, November 06, 2004 1:28 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Tank Leak



Hi Bill !

Thinning ProSeal is not a good idea - but I think he used the
"brushable" Pro-Seal - it's about like honey. Available from Leavens.

The big caveat is - don't seal up the inlet completely - just stuff
the vacuum hose into the tank - or you might collapse it !! The idea is
just to reduce the pressure "a bit", to suck the ProSeal in.

Many builders have used this trick with good success - it can also
help if you have a leaky rivet. Just put a drop or 2 of brushable PS on
the rivet head & wait for it to be sucked in - add another couple of
drops, then turn off the shop vac & wait. :-)

.........bobp

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Saturday 06 November 2004 09:17 am, Pollock wrote:

That sounds like a good idea repairing the fuel tank it would work on
floats as well l guess.What did you use to thin down the proseal?

Bill
Moose 244

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Brent Blue MD
Sent: Saturday, November 06, 2004 12:09 AM
To: rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com
Subject: Tank Leak


Andy:

I had a tank leak in the wing I couldn't get to. This occurred in a quick
build wing. The solution that was suggested to me and work was to apply a
vacuum cleaner to the tank and apply slightly thinned proseal to the leak
area. Let it such in for a minute or two depending on the size of leak

and

thickness of the proseal. This worked great for me.

A lot better than sloshing.

Brent

At 05:00 PM 11/5/2004, you wrote:

---------- Digest Message #21 ----------
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 2004 18:47:11 -0800 (PST)
From: bowmanout@yahoo.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: fuel tank construction/ maint

Hello,

i have an aluminum welded fuel tank that was leak tested extensively

prior

to installation. it was rewelded to cure a few small leaks and retested
and installed. after 15 months of use with av gas, it has started to leak
rapidly from a lower seam after all those months. it has had fuel in it
for 100 percent of that time.

my question is do you rebel guys rely on your prosealed seams or do you
"slosh" your tanks also?

we may be able to proseal the lower seams through the fuel filler, but it
will be a less than pretty result. our other possibility is to pull the
wing and slosh the tank. i guess we could also try sloshing with the wing
installed as the leak is definitely in a seam on the bottom of the tank.

any thoughts or suggestions would be very appreciated. we use av gas in
the wing tanks and blend with auto fuel in the main fuselage tank. anyone
have experience with sloshing materials and there success/failure with

av

or auto fuel?

thanks

Andy

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[Bob Patterson]

Hi Bill !

Welllllllll ....... there are some thoughts that the brushable ProSeal
isn't quite as durable as the thick black stuff ...... but, maybe ....
it's your airplane.....

One trick when doing large pieces - like tank skins - is to install all
the rivets and pull at low pressure - maybe only 10 lb -- the idea is NOT
to pull the rivets to pop, just squeeze the ProSeal out gently. Once all
the rivets are in, go around and pull again at maybe 20 - 30 lb. pressure,
wait a bit for squeeze out, then crank up to full pressure and pull to
pop. This gives the PS time to spread out a bit, and reduces the gap
between pieces - less chance of leaks, and a stronger, tighter joint !

Many builders join & fillet with the thick stuff, then brush the thinner
PS over everything, especially rivet stems & heads, just to be sure. The
important thing there is to be sure to clean & prep the surface before
brushing ! Wipe with acetone, then scotchbrite until shiny - ProSeal
immediately. Do not wipe with shop rags - may contain oil - even from
skin on hands !!

Hope this helps !

.....bobp

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Saturday 06 November 2004 11:21 pm, Pollock wrote:

Thanks Bob

The brushable ProSeal would be easier to apply mating large surfaces like
doublers.l will use a small roller to apply evenly and getting away from
buttering the pieces unevenly.

Bill
Moose 244

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Bob
Patterson
Sent: Saturday, November 06, 2004 1:28 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Tank Leak



Hi Bill !

Thinning ProSeal is not a good idea - but I think he used the
"brushable" Pro-Seal - it's about like honey. Available from Leavens.

The big caveat is - don't seal up the inlet completely - just stuff
the vacuum hose into the tank - or you might collapse it !! The idea is
just to reduce the pressure "a bit", to suck the ProSeal in.

Many builders have used this trick with good success - it can also
help if you have a leaky rivet. Just put a drop or 2 of brushable PS on
the rivet head & wait for it to be sucked in - add another couple of
drops, then turn off the shop vac & wait. :-)

.........bobp

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------

On Saturday 06 November 2004 09:17 am, Pollock wrote:

That sounds like a good idea repairing the fuel tank it would work on
floats as well l guess.What did you use to thin down the proseal?

Bill
Moose 244

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Brent Blue MD
Sent: Saturday, November 06, 2004 12:09 AM
To: rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com
Subject: Tank Leak


Andy:

I had a tank leak in the wing I couldn't get to. This occurred in a
quick build wing. The solution that was suggested to me and work was to
apply a vacuum cleaner to the tank and apply slightly thinned proseal to
the leak area. Let it such in for a minute or two depending on the size
of leak

and

thickness of the proseal. This worked great for me.

A lot better than sloshing.

Brent

At 05:00 PM 11/5/2004, you wrote:

---------- Digest Message #21 ----------
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 2004 18:47:11 -0800 (PST)
From: bowmanout@yahoo.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: fuel tank construction/ maint

Hello,

i have an aluminum welded fuel tank that was leak tested extensively

prior

to installation. it was rewelded to cure a few small leaks and retested
and installed. after 15 months of use with av gas, it has started to
leak rapidly from a lower seam after all those months. it has had fuel
in it for 100 percent of that time.

my question is do you rebel guys rely on your prosealed seams or do you
"slosh" your tanks also?

we may be able to proseal the lower seams through the fuel filler, but
it will be a less than pretty result. our other possibility is to pull
the wing and slosh the tank. i guess we could also try sloshing with
the wing installed as the leak is definitely in a seam on the bottom of
the tank.

any thoughts or suggestions would be very appreciated. we use av gas in
the wing tanks and blend with auto fuel in the main fuselage tank.
anyone have experience with sloshing materials and there
success/failure with

av

or auto fuel?

thanks

Andy

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[Pollock]

Peanut butter sound like a better job than honey,this is making me hungry!!!

Thank Bob


Bill
Moose244

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Bob
Patterson
Sent: Saturday, November 06, 2004 11:35 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Tank Leak



Hi Bill !

Welllllllll ....... there are some thoughts that the brushable ProSeal
isn't quite as durable as the thick black stuff ...... but, maybe ....
it's your airplane.....

One trick when doing large pieces - like tank skins - is to install all
the rivets and pull at low pressure - maybe only 10 lb -- the idea is NOT
to pull the rivets to pop, just squeeze the ProSeal out gently. Once all
the rivets are in, go around and pull again at maybe 20 - 30 lb. pressure,
wait a bit for squeeze out, then crank up to full pressure and pull to
pop. This gives the PS time to spread out a bit, and reduces the gap
between pieces - less chance of leaks, and a stronger, tighter joint !

Many builders join & fillet with the thick stuff, then brush the thinner
PS over everything, especially rivet stems & heads, just to be sure. The
important thing there is to be sure to clean & prep the surface before
brushing ! Wipe with acetone, then scotchbrite until shiny - ProSeal
immediately. Do not wipe with shop rags - may contain oil - even from
skin on hands !!

Hope this helps !

.....bobp

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Saturday 06 November 2004 11:21 pm, Pollock wrote:

Thanks Bob

The brushable ProSeal would be easier to apply mating large surfaces like
doublers.l will use a small roller to apply evenly and getting away from
buttering the pieces unevenly.

Bill
Moose 244

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Bob
Patterson
Sent: Saturday, November 06, 2004 1:28 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Tank Leak



Hi Bill !

Thinning ProSeal is not a good idea - but I think he used the
"brushable" Pro-Seal - it's about like honey. Available from Leavens.

The big caveat is - don't seal up the inlet completely - just stuff
the vacuum hose into the tank - or you might collapse it !! The idea is
just to reduce the pressure "a bit", to suck the ProSeal in.

Many builders have used this trick with good success - it can also
help if you have a leaky rivet. Just put a drop or 2 of brushable PS on
the rivet head & wait for it to be sucked in - add another couple of
drops, then turn off the shop vac & wait. :-)

.........bobp

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------

On Saturday 06 November 2004 09:17 am, Pollock wrote:

That sounds like a good idea repairing the fuel tank it would work on
floats as well l guess.What did you use to thin down the proseal?

Bill
Moose 244

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Brent Blue MD
Sent: Saturday, November 06, 2004 12:09 AM
To: rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com
Subject: Tank Leak


Andy:

I had a tank leak in the wing I couldn't get to. This occurred in a
quick build wing. The solution that was suggested to me and work was to
apply a vacuum cleaner to the tank and apply slightly thinned proseal to
the leak area. Let it such in for a minute or two depending on the size
of leak

and

thickness of the proseal. This worked great for me.

A lot better than sloshing.

Brent

At 05:00 PM 11/5/2004, you wrote:

---------- Digest Message #21 ----------
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 2004 18:47:11 -0800 (PST)
From: bowmanout@yahoo.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: fuel tank construction/ maint

Hello,

i have an aluminum welded fuel tank that was leak tested extensively

prior

to installation. it was rewelded to cure a few small leaks and retested
and installed. after 15 months of use with av gas, it has started to
leak rapidly from a lower seam after all those months. it has had fuel
in it for 100 percent of that time.

my question is do you rebel guys rely on your prosealed seams or do you
"slosh" your tanks also?

we may be able to proseal the lower seams through the fuel filler, but
it will be a less than pretty result. our other possibility is to pull
the wing and slosh the tank. i guess we could also try sloshing with
the wing installed as the leak is definitely in a seam on the bottom

of

the tank.

any thoughts or suggestions would be very appreciated. we use av gas in
the wing tanks and blend with auto fuel in the main fuselage tank.
anyone have experience with sloshing materials and there
success/failure with

av

or auto fuel?

thanks

Andy

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[David Ricker]

Bill

If you don't want the mess of peanut buttering the Pro-Seal when you assemble you
might want to try the caulking tube method. You can buy empty tubes for your
caulking gun for next to nothing, mix your sealer and put it in the tube. From
there you just put it on like you would to seal up your bathtub. The info is on
my site (www.elite583.cjb.net) under wings, scroll down to "Wet Tank Sealing" and
there is a pic of the tube and info on where to get them.

Sorry, no photos of it in action, cameras & tank sealing don't mix!

Cheers,

Dave
elite583.cjb.net

Bob Patterson wrote:

Hi Bill !

Welllllllll ....... there are some thoughts that the brushable ProSeal
isn't quite as durable as the thick black stuff ...... but, maybe ....
it's your airplane.....

One trick when doing large pieces - like tank skins - is to install all
the rivets and pull at low pressure - maybe only 10 lb -- the idea is NOT
to pull the rivets to pop, just squeeze the ProSeal out gently. Once all
the rivets are in, go around and pull again at maybe 20 - 30 lb. pressure,
wait a bit for squeeze out, then crank up to full pressure and pull to
pop. This gives the PS time to spread out a bit, and reduces the gap
between pieces - less chance of leaks, and a stronger, tighter joint !

Many builders join & fillet with the thick stuff, then brush the thinner
PS over everything, especially rivet stems & heads, just to be sure. The
important thing there is to be sure to clean & prep the surface before
brushing ! Wipe with acetone, then scotchbrite until shiny - ProSeal
immediately. Do not wipe with shop rags - may contain oil - even from
skin on hands !!

Hope this helps !

.....bobp

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Saturday 06 November 2004 11:21 pm, Pollock wrote:

Thanks Bob

The brushable ProSeal would be easier to apply mating large surfaces like
doublers.l will use a small roller to apply evenly and getting away from
buttering the pieces unevenly.

Bill
Moose 244

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Bob
Patterson
Sent: Saturday, November 06, 2004 1:28 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Tank Leak



Hi Bill !

Thinning ProSeal is not a good idea - but I think he used the
"brushable" Pro-Seal - it's about like honey. Available from Leavens.

The big caveat is - don't seal up the inlet completely - just stuff
the vacuum hose into the tank - or you might collapse it !! The idea is
just to reduce the pressure "a bit", to suck the ProSeal in.

Many builders have used this trick with good success - it can also
help if you have a leaky rivet. Just put a drop or 2 of brushable PS on
the rivet head & wait for it to be sucked in - add another couple of
drops, then turn off the shop vac & wait. :-)

.........bobp

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------

On Saturday 06 November 2004 09:17 am, Pollock wrote:

That sounds like a good idea repairing the fuel tank it would work on
floats as well l guess.What did you use to thin down the proseal?

Bill
Moose 244

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Brent Blue MD
Sent: Saturday, November 06, 2004 12:09 AM
To: rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com
Subject: Tank Leak


Andy:

I had a tank leak in the wing I couldn't get to. This occurred in a
quick build wing. The solution that was suggested to me and work was to
apply a vacuum cleaner to the tank and apply slightly thinned proseal to
the leak area. Let it such in for a minute or two depending on the size
of leak

and

thickness of the proseal. This worked great for me.

A lot better than sloshing.

Brent

At 05:00 PM 11/5/2004, you wrote:

prior

av

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--
David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada






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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Dave...you mean your digital camera doesn't look like a Walleye (pickerel)
like mine does......covered with brown and green blotches???


----- Original Message -----
From: "David Ricker" <ricker@inherentsys.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2004 10:46 AM
Subject: Re: Tank Leak

Sorry, no photos of it in action, cameras & tank sealing don't mix!

Cheers,

Dave
elite583.cjb.net

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[David Ricker]

You got that right, besides I don't want photographic evidence of the antics
that go with doing the goopy thing! Heck, if you're in the shop when that's
going on you're involved, it isn't a spectator sport (although sometimes you
could sell tickets...).

D

"Wayne G. O'Shea" wrote:

Dave...you mean your digital camera doesn't look like a Walleye (pickerel)
like mine does......covered with brown and green blotches???

----- Original Message -----
From: "David Ricker" <ricker@inherentsys.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2004 10:46 AM
Subject: Re: Tank Leak

Sorry, no photos of it in action, cameras & tank sealing don't mix!

Cheers,

Dave
elite583.cjb.net

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David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada






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[Rick Harper]

And put on LOTS !!! ...................

(no one is ever going to SEE it ........ and "more" will better your
chances of no leaks )

We went out an extra rib to get 230 Lts ..... used one 1 Ltr kit per
tank base & sides & ordered another just to do the 2 tank tops ... ( 3
ltrs of Pro Seal in total ) .... and we've NEVER leaked a single drop !


Rick & Wendy Harper
541R
(going GREAT GUNS - did 30 hrs last month
----- Original Message -----
From: David Ricker
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Sent: Monday, November 08, 2004 2:46 AM
Subject: Re: Tank Leak


Bill

If you don't want the mess of peanut buttering the Pro-Seal when you
assemble you
might want to try the caulking tube method. You can buy empty tubes
for your
caulking gun for next to nothing, mix your sealer and put it in the
tube. From
there you just put it on like you would to seal up your bathtub. The
info is on
my site (www.elite583.cjb.net) under wings, scroll down to "Wet Tank
Sealing" and
there is a pic of the tube and info on where to get them.

Sorry, no photos of it in action, cameras & tank sealing don't mix!

Cheers,

Dave
elite583.cjb.net

Bob Patterson wrote:

Hi Bill !

Welllllllll ....... there are some thoughts that the brushable

ProSeal

isn't quite as durable as the thick black stuff ...... but,

maybe ....

it's your airplane.....

One trick when doing large pieces - like tank skins - is to install

all

the rivets and pull at low pressure - maybe only 10 lb -- the idea

is NOT

to pull the rivets to pop, just squeeze the ProSeal out gently.

Once all

the rivets are in, go around and pull again at maybe 20 - 30 lb.

pressure,

wait a bit for squeeze out, then crank up to full pressure and pull

to

pop. This gives the PS time to spread out a bit, and reduces the

gap

between pieces - less chance of leaks, and a stronger, tighter joint

!

Many builders join & fillet with the thick stuff, then brush the

thinner

PS over everything, especially rivet stems & heads, just to be sure.

The

important thing there is to be sure to clean & prep the surface

before

brushing ! Wipe with acetone, then scotchbrite until shiny -

ProSeal

immediately. Do not wipe with shop rags - may contain oil - even

from

skin on hands !!

Hope this helps !

.....bobp

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Saturday 06 November 2004 11:21 pm, Pollock wrote:

Thanks Bob

The brushable ProSeal would be easier to apply mating large

surfaces like

doublers.l will use a small roller to apply evenly and getting

away from

buttering the pieces unevenly.

Bill
Moose 244

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf

Of Bob

Patterson
Sent: Saturday, November 06, 2004 1:28 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Tank Leak



Hi Bill !

Thinning ProSeal is not a good idea - but I think he used the
"brushable" Pro-Seal - it's about like honey. Available from

Leavens.

The big caveat is - don't seal up the inlet completely - just

stuff

the vacuum hose into the tank - or you might collapse it !! The

idea is

just to reduce the pressure "a bit", to suck the ProSeal in.

Many builders have used this trick with good success - it can

also

help if you have a leaky rivet. Just put a drop or 2 of brushable

PS on

the rivet head & wait for it to be sucked in - add another couple

of

drops, then turn off the shop vac & wait. :-)

.........bobp

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------

On Saturday 06 November 2004 09:17 am, Pollock wrote:

That sounds like a good idea repairing the fuel tank it would

work on

floats as well l guess.What did you use to thin down the

proseal?

Bill
Moose 244

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On

Behalf Of

Brent Blue MD
Sent: Saturday, November 06, 2004 12:09 AM
To: rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com
Subject: Tank Leak


Andy:

I had a tank leak in the wing I couldn't get to. This occurred

in a

quick build wing. The solution that was suggested to me and

work was to

apply a vacuum cleaner to the tank and apply slightly thinned

proseal to

the leak area. Let it such in for a minute or two depending on

the size

of leak

and

thickness of the proseal. This worked great for me.

A lot better than sloshing.

Brent

At 05:00 PM 11/5/2004, you wrote:

extensively

prior

retested

started to

had fuel

or do you

filler, but

to pull

sloshing with

bottom of

av gas in

tank.

av

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--
David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada






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[Alan Hepburn]

After 4 years, the left tank on my Elite has developed a leak. Fuel is
gradually dripping out along the entire trailing edge of the wing, so it is
not clear where the leak is coming from. Of course, visual access there is
very limited (one aileron hinge inspection plate). I have tried a snake
camera but results are not very good. However, the outboard rib looks leak
free, so I suspect somewhere on one of the rear tank bulkheads.

I have been advised against sloshing, as it tends to come loose. The fix
would appear to be to cut a hole in the top of the tank, fix the leak, then
Proseal a patch over the hole, but I'd really like to identify the leak
location before I do that. I'm considering drilling out the lower trailing
edge rivets so I can get a better look at the back of the tank. And advice
from someone who has been there ahead of me would be appreciated.

Al Hepburn
Elite 587

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
craig
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 1:15 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders]


This message is for Eric F of Elite 745E. Eric, I'd like to talk with you
regarding a few things on your plane. Would it be possible to email me or
call when you have time?

Craig 907-355-6290 snowyrvr@mtaonline.net



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