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corrosion proofing

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Bob Patterson

Corrosion Proofing

Post by Bob Patterson » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:34 am

Hi Peter !

I wouldn't worry too much about the spraying of epoxy primer - you
can thin it & brush for the insides of the tail surfaces - and that's all I
would do !! As long as you brush on Polyfiber Epoxy Primer between the
joints, and assemble WET, as well as dipping the rivets & pulling WET,
you should have no worries. You can use acetone instead of Metal-Sol
for degreasing - it's cheaper & easier to get, but still toxic in closed
spaces !!

One big danger in brushing on large surfaces is getting too thick a
coat - you should still be able to read the black lettering on the alum.
if you have the right thickness !! Anything more than a wash coat
will crack & flake & allow corrosion - so you're likely better to just
do the joints & leave the big surfaces bare. We've seen the insides
of Rebels that have over 10 years outside, and the metal is still
shiny !

Personally, i would STRONGLY recommend NOT trying to use
ANYTHING in a spray can ! Most of these are enamel based, and
will crack & flake over time - I had a glider that had the insides of
the wings done with chromate spray bomb paint - after 10 years or so,
it started flaking off ! The tiny flakes filled the cockpit for years,
creating a health & visibility hazard, as well as NO protection for
the insides of the wings !!

..............bobp

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Thursday 21 October 2004 12:25 pm, Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao Piascik wrote:
Hi guys:

Well I've got the bug again. A year ago I looked into buying a Rebel
kit and got scare into building my own because of the build time. I
bought a completed one and have enjoyed it very much (wheel, skis, and
floats). Winter is here in Yellowknife and I am looking to keep myself
busy. I was down at the hanger where I park my Rebel and found a Moose
being built. There is three in my family, wife, daughter(6), and
myself, I know in a couple of years the Rebel will be to small for the
three of us for a weekend camp out. So if I start now in three to four
years I can have a completed Moose.

I plan on building it here in my attached garage, 18' X 18'. I have
already pulled my Rebel through town from and to the airport. I have
taken measurements of the Moose being built at the airport and have
found it will be possible to do all the components here in my garage.
My only problem I can see is the corrosion proofing. I can't really see
where I can set up a spray booth. What have some of the you guys done
out there for corrosion proofing?

How difficult will it be to do all the electrical installation? Do MAM
include any components? The electrical work could be the one thing that
can really slow me down when the time comes. I am lucky when it come to
advice, I work for First Air here in YK and can get a lot of advice
from Electronic techs as well from you guys here.

I have been keeping my eyes open for a tail kit that someone has
abandoned. There was someone on Barnstormers selling the tail and wings
but he decided to withdraw the sale.
I realize that if any of the surfaces are closed I will have to open
them for inspection.

Thanks,

Peter




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Rick Harper

Corrosion Proofing

Post by Rick Harper » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:34 am

And yes,.... you'd be about right on the time thing Wayne ..... but it's
my day OFF !!! Yip Yip :o)
( hell, why am I so happy ... I'm just spending the whole day cleaning
up my workshed :o(

Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: Wayne G. O'Shea
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Sent: Friday, October 22, 2004 7:58 AM
Subject: Re: Corrosion Proofing


..be just an OZ translation, I would think, and considering the time
zone
Rick would have gone off to work after that email.

When you buy proseal it comes in a "two pack". One material and one
catalyst
wrapped together. Figure that's all he means with the two part epoxy.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "larry173" <larry@thermaire.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 21, 2004 5:50 PM
Subject: Re: Corrosion Proofing

You say 2 pack, did you mean 2 part.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Harper" <rjwh@optusnet.com.au>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 21, 2004 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: Corrosion Proofing

G'day from Below All !

While I will admit that we dipped every rivet in 2 pack zinc
chromate before squeezing them (there'll be no dissimilar metal
electrolysis in our baby !) .... all we used on the internal skins
was
zinc OXIDE - these are available in pressure pack cans, are NOT
carcinogenic (still wouldn't advise you sit there & sniff 'em
though !
) ..... and we finished with a 2 pack paint that bonds straight to
bare
metal ..... and we've won a few prizes at various airshows "down
here
"

Rick & Wendy Harper
541 R

PS don't worry too much about the wiring ... it was my biggest
"fear"
too .... just draw it up "One circuit at a time" & get it looked
over by
someone else who "knows" .... then wire it up one circuit at a
time !
----- Original Message -----
From: WALTER KLATT
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Sent: Friday, October 22, 2004 6:47 AM
Subject: Re: Corrosion Proofing


I still remember going through this with my Rebel many, many
years
ago. First I did the wet epoxy zinc chromate brushed on the mating
surfaces just prior to riveting. Didn't even use a mask for that
(not
saying you shouldn't it), but still clearly remember the verbal
abuse I
took from my wife for smelling up the house, even though this was
done
in an attached garage. Part of the smell problem, was the Metalsol
used
to clean the surfaces. For the parts that would be covered, eg,
wings, I
would spray the inside surfaces prior to final riveting, and for
that I
would move the completed parts outside and used a mask. But never
did
use a paint booth for anything. The plane itself, I had
professionally
painted.

Anyway, that's what I did, and so far, still haven't got
cancer...
Walter

----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao Piascik" <northofsixty@mac.com>
Date: Thursday, October 21, 2004 9:25 am
Subject: Corrosion Proofing
Hi guys:

Well I've got the bug again. A year ago I looked into buying a
Rebel
kit and got scare into building my own because of the build
time.
I
bought a completed one and have enjoyed it very much (wheel,
skis,
and
floats). Winter is here in Yellowknife and I am looking to keep
myself
busy. I was down at the hanger where I park my Rebel and found
a
Moose
being built. There is three in my family, wife, daughter(6),
and
myself, I know in a couple of years the Rebel will be to small
for
the
three of us for a weekend camp out. So if I start now in three
to
four
years I can have a completed Moose.

I plan on building it here in my attached garage, 18' X 18'. I
have
already pulled my Rebel through town from and to the airport. I
have
taken measurements of the Moose being built at the airport and
have
found it will be possible to do all the components here in my
garage.
My only problem I can see is the corrosion proofing. I can't
really see
where I can set up a spray booth. What have some of the you
guys
done
out there for corrosion proofing?

How difficult will it be to do all the electrical installation?
Do
MAM
include any components? The electrical work could be the one
thing
that
can really slow me down when the time comes. I am lucky when it
come to
advice, I work for First Air here in YK and can get a lot of
advice
from Electronic techs as well from you guys here.

I have been keeping my eyes open for a tail kit that someone
has
abandoned. There was someone on Barnstormers selling the tail
and
wings
but he decided to withdraw the sale.
I realize that if any of the surfaces are closed I will have to
open
them for inspection.

Thanks,

Peter




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Roger Cole

Corrosion Proofing

Post by Roger Cole » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:34 am

Jesse,
I'm not an expert either, but I have found that the solvents in the
epoxy dissolve the glue that holds the foam brushes together. The
solution is to staple both sides together before you start painting.
--------------Roger
On Thursday, October 21, 2004, at 12:06 PM, Jesse Jenks wrote:
Peter,
I am just a beginner, so don't put too much stock in my advice. I have
started building my Rebel in a spare bedroom in the house. I decided to
corrosion proof the interior of all the tail surfaces, and had the same
problem as you; no place to spray. I have built both elevators now
using a
foam brush and thinning the epoxy chromate quite a bit with acetone. It
brushes on very well when thinned, and gives you a nice thin coat. I
found
you have to do a fairly small area and then move on because it gets
tacky
very fast. It dries very hard and strong. It seems like a good
alternative
to spraying, which is bad for your health anyway. The only problem I
have
had so far is the foam brush gets very soft and floppy from the
acetone, so
you have to replace it after a short time, or make do. I am going to
try a
soft bristled brush. On my second elevator I assembled it right after
chromating. I brushed on another coat of straight primer in the mating
surfaces, and coated the rivets. It seems to work very well. You still
need
good ventilation though. I actually did the last one outside, and
brought it
in just to finish off the riveting.
Jesse

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Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao P

Corrosion Proofing

Post by Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao P » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:34 am

Thanks guys for all the info. I can breathe a little easier, well my
wife anyways. The friend I talked to here about corrosion proofing is
building a RV7. He has etched, Alidine(sp), and sprayed everything with
the two part epoxy, beautiful work. That a/c will never corrode.

There is a fellow in florida that has the tail kit for a SR. All he has
done is to put the ribs together on the Horz stab. He wants $2000.00
USD. This is one third off the price that MAM wants. I would like to
try my hand on the tail to see if I enjoy construction as much as I
think.

Thanks again,

Peter

PS Still waiting to get my Rebel into a hanger to take the floats off
and put on the Wheel Skis. Another couple of weeks and I hope to be out
on the lakes again ice fishing.


On 21-Oct-04, at 9:00 PM, Roger Cole wrote:
Jesse,
I'm not an expert either, but I have found that the solvents in the
epoxy dissolve the glue that holds the foam brushes together. The
solution is to staple both sides together before you start painting.
--------------Roger
On Thursday, October 21, 2004, at 12:06 PM, Jesse Jenks wrote:
Peter,
I am just a beginner, so don't put too much stock in my advice. I have
started building my Rebel in a spare bedroom in the house. I decided
to
corrosion proof the interior of all the tail surfaces, and had the
same
problem as you; no place to spray. I have built both elevators now
using a
foam brush and thinning the epoxy chromate quite a bit with acetone.
It
brushes on very well when thinned, and gives you a nice thin coat. I
found
you have to do a fairly small area and then move on because it gets
tacky
very fast. It dries very hard and strong. It seems like a good
alternative
to spraying, which is bad for your health anyway. The only problem I
have
had so far is the foam brush gets very soft and floppy from the
acetone, so
you have to replace it after a short time, or make do. I am going to
try a
soft bristled brush. On my second elevator I assembled it right after
chromating. I brushed on another coat of straight primer in the mating
surfaces, and coated the rivets. It seems to work very well. You still
need
good ventilation though. I actually did the last one outside, and
brought it
in just to finish off the riveting.
Jesse

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's
FREE!
http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/o ... direct/01/




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