corrosion proofing

[Mike Davis]

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To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com> (Murphy Rebel)
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
Subject: RE: corrosion proofing
Message-Id: <E0zbHHb-0006gh-00@mail2.toronto.istar.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 23:44:31 -0500


Glad to hear it !! Look forward to seeing you on the 8th - it looks
like we might have a good turnout !

The next builder visit will be at Mike Fuller's, in about 2 weeks.

Most of the fellows are running a plastic tube inside the wing -
lately flexible plastic, earlier with rigid plastic water pipe. The
advantage is that even loose wires can't short out on the tube. You
can just run a piece of heavy twine through the tube for now, then
use it to pull wire through later.
The tube usually runs in front of the spar, to miss the fuel tank,
and is run through enlarged holes in the ribs, and held with tie wraps.

I know of an 'independent' builder up that way - he is NOT
associating with other Rebel builders, and "doing his own thing" with
unapproved mods. He may well have made his OWN engine mount !!
The mounts are usually well triangulated - the only thing they
really need added is a cross tube horizontally between the top
mounts & also between the bottom mounts - VERY hard to do because
of the number of tubes already in the clusters. This is why MAM have
chosen extra channels on both sides of the firewall to stiffen
this area (the 'float fix').

See you on Sunday !!!
....bobp

---------------------------------orig.----------------------------
At 01:24 PM 11/4/98 -0500, you wrote:

Yes, still alive and popping....though very slowly.... Daniel, my 6 yr old
son is not interested in building airplanes...yet. I have been reading this
site for quite a while but I could not reply to it, now I can. It has been
very informative.
In the beginning I was making some mods (MAM approved) on my Rebel
which slowed me down. Now I'm just following the manual with the goal to
finish and fly the basic plane soon and add the "bells and whistles" later
as needed...if needed. For example, I'm not even worrying about wiring the
wing much, just make provisions to add wires later. Speaking on the
subject, I am thinking about running the strobe/light wires in a conduit
(alum tube) secured outside the wing under the top skin overhang at the
rear spar. The heated pitot tube plumbing and wiring (heated req'd in
Canada for night flight, see RAC, Annex) will have to be internal.
I recently visited a builder near Parry Sound who is just about to
hang the engine (0-320). I was alarmed to see the two upper tubes of the
mount just "hanging in the breeze", attached to the rest of the mount only
at one end. I could easily flex these tubes by hand. We thought that
perhaps this would become rigid once mounted to the engine but knowing that
rubber mounts are used here that theory was out the window. No way would I
hang a 300lb or any engine on this mount. Did this builder receive an
incomplete mount?
Anyway, I am enjoying the building and I hope to make it to the
meeting on the 8th in Brampton. Paul.




Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com> on 10/27/98 01:50:05 PM

Please respond to murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (Murphy Rebel)

To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (Murphy Rebel)
cc: (bcc: Paul Kucera/Imax)
Subject: RE: corrosion proofing





Hi Paul !!

You ARE alive !! Glad to see you've escaped from work long enough
to join the comments. Hope we'll see you at the next Rebel Builders
Meeting,
on Sunday, Nov. 8th - if the weather's good, we'll have a visit from "The
Boys From Michigan" !! Curt Martin & Bill Kelly, with their award-winning
Rebel !!

Take care !
....bobp

-----------------------------orig.--------------------------------------
At 08:31 AM 10/27/98 -0500, you wrote:

Phosphoric acid bad?? Look at the contents of any Coke bottle!!! So if the
plane does not fall apart the stomachs will???? Just kidding . Paul Kucera
R453.

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[klehman]

Ian
Lots in the archives on corrosion proofing.
The Corrosion-X and ACF-50 are basically oil coatings but specially made for
aluminum. A light misting of ACF-50 makes the white aluminum corrosion disapear
in a couple of seconds and it seaps into small openings where it is needed most.
FWIW the wax or hardening compounds are worse than nothing on automobiles
because they trap moisture and yet oil works well because it seeps into the
cracks and such. Gotta believe airframes are similar. We use a engine cleaning
wand that normaly sprays varsol to "mist" it. A gallon will do a couple of
airframes.
Ken

Ian Donaldson wrote:

What is corrosion X or ACF50 What does it do, and how do you apply it?

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[Bob Patterson]

The problem with ACF-50 is that it drips out, and must be re-done
every year or so. It makes a mess of the outside of the airframe, and
prevents proper painting. (FWIW, I hear that all ACF-50 is, is soybean oil,
treated with various preservatives to prevent mould ... :-) )

THe advantage of Northern Shield or Boeing D-25 is that they ARE oily
in nature, and DO creep over the whole surface. Although they do "harden",
it is not into a rigid sheet, just something more like a grease, so they
do not drip out over time. They do not stiffen until they have had time to
creep - in the Boeing case, you must spray a second part, the 'hardener'.

All of these products that are "misted" in are excellent ways to protect
a completed airframe.

.....bobp

--------------------------------orig.--------------------------------------
At 08:00 AM 10/11/99 -0400, you wrote:

Ian
Lots in the archives on corrosion proofing.
The Corrosion-X and ACF-50 are basically oil coatings but specially made for
aluminum. A light misting of ACF-50 makes the white aluminum corrosion disapear
in a couple of seconds and it seaps into small openings where it is needed

most.

FWIW the wax or hardening compounds are worse than nothing on automobiles
because they trap moisture and yet oil works well because it seeps into the
cracks and such. Gotta believe airframes are similar. We use a engine cleaning
wand that normaly sprays varsol to "mist" it. A gallon will do a couple of
airframes.
Ken

Ian Donaldson wrote:

What is corrosion X or ACF50 What does it do, and how do you apply it?

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[Bob Patterson]

In really salty environments, it would be a good idea to spray a THIN
film of epoxy chromate over the whole surface, AFTER bonding the pieces
together WET. The proper film is so thin that you can read the lettering
on the aluminum. If you spray or brush a thick film of epoxy chromate on
large surfaces, there is a good chance that it will crack & let moisture
in.

Several builders here have sprayed the thin film inside tail pieces,
as these are hard to access later. Wings can always be sprayed with ACF-50
or Boeing D-25, or Northern Shield, later, as these can be blown in as
a mist.

BE <VERY> careful spraying epoxy chromate - it can be deadly !! Use a
fresh air hood with a positive pressure !! Some builders also use a fan
mounted outside the shop to blow clean air (through a filter) INTO the
building. This can be better than having a fan suck air out, because the
positive pressure keeps dust out of the shop, AND you can use ANY fan motor,
because there are no explosive fumes going past the motor ...

......bobp
----------------------------orig.----------------------------------------
At 09:26 PM 10/11/99 +1000, you wrote:

G'day from Australia

OK I seem to mostly understand this corrosion proofing thing, but I
still am concerned about the unprotected metal inside the wing and tail
assemblies .What I think the factory says, is to only chromate the areas
that touch and leave the rest of the areas natural aluminum.
Is this satisfactory in salty environments?
If not satisfactory, just what should I spray on to protect the
surfaces?
What is corrosion X or ACF50 What does it do, and how do you apply it?


Thanks and regards

Ian Donaldson

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[Bob Patterson]

If you epoxy chromate all surfaces, then ACF-50 is not necessary. The
epoxy film is about the best corrosion proofing there is.

The after-construction corrosion proofers are all blown into the
structure using a long 'wand' with small holes in it. This produces a fog
that creeps into all the crevices. ACF-50 is probably the worst choice, as
it leaks out, messes up your paint, and must be re-sprayed every year or so.
The others thicken into something like a thick grease, and are almost
permanent. They are easy to use for large structures like wings & fuse,
where access is easy.

If you are worried about salt air, or even just a lot of rain, it would
be a good idea to spray all of the inside surfaces in the tail section.
Note that the spraying is best done after the joints are put together wet.
This means leaving some bare spots on the last skin, so the joints are
metal/wet epoxy/metal, without a previously sprayed film of epoxy.

The wings & fuse can be done later, IF needed, with sprays, as long as
all the joints are protected by putting them together with wet epoxy. OR
you can just spray the large surfaces there, too. You must be very careful
to apply only a thin film, as it is easy to add 30 pounds to your empty
weight with excess paint !!

For what it's worth, Cessna didn't use ANY corrosion proofing for the
last 10 years of production - and they used 2024 Aluminum, which is MUCH
faster to corrode that the 6061 that Murphy uses !

......bobp

------------------------------orig.---------------------------------------
At 04:22 PM 10/12/99 +1000, you wrote:

G'day

OK! Now I begin to understand this corrosion proofing thing. Assuming
that I applied a film of chromate to all interior surfaces during
construction, is ACF (etc) necessary, or can I skip the chromating of
all surfaces and apply ACF (etc) instead?
Also how and when do you apply ACF (etc).

Regards and thanks

Ian Donaldson.

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[Ian Donaldson]

G'day from Australia

OK I seem to mostly understand this corrosion proofing thing, but I
still am concerned about the unprotected metal inside the wing and tail
assemblies .What I think the factory says, is to only chromate the areas
that touch and leave the rest of the areas natural aluminum.
Is this satisfactory in salty environments?
If not satisfactory, just what should I spray on to protect the
surfaces?
What is corrosion X or ACF50 What does it do, and how do you apply it?


Thanks and regards

Ian Donaldson

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between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
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[Ian Donaldson]

G'day

OK! Now I begin to understand this corrosion proofing thing. Assuming
that I applied a film of chromate to all interior surfaces during
construction, is ACF (etc) necessary, or can I skip the chromating of
all surfaces and apply ACF (etc) instead?
Also how and when do you apply ACF (etc).

Regards and thanks

Ian Donaldson.

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[Geert Frank]

Reference last line last paragraph Ken Klehman's comments, that the bare
6061 will outlast him and his kids (yes, except salt water exposure), that
is more or less the advice I got from this retired Delta Airlines, 35 years
in the business, sheet metal man, every time I came toting out with another
anti-corrosion spray or whatever: "leave well enough alone, just epoxy prime
the joints or wherever two different pieces meet". Period. Sure, to each his
own and all that, but that guy should know what he is talking about. Also
what if you do more harm than good with all that extra expensive work? Above
all, advice from folks that sell the stuff and the applicators for it, is
not exactly unbiased is it now? Geert Frank

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[Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao P]

Hi guys:

Well I've got the bug again. A year ago I looked into buying a Rebel
kit and got scare into building my own because of the build time. I
bought a completed one and have enjoyed it very much (wheel, skis, and
floats). Winter is here in Yellowknife and I am looking to keep myself
busy. I was down at the hanger where I park my Rebel and found a Moose
being built. There is three in my family, wife, daughter(6), and
myself, I know in a couple of years the Rebel will be to small for the
three of us for a weekend camp out. So if I start now in three to four
years I can have a completed Moose.

I plan on building it here in my attached garage, 18' X 18'. I have
already pulled my Rebel through town from and to the airport. I have
taken measurements of the Moose being built at the airport and have
found it will be possible to do all the components here in my garage.
My only problem I can see is the corrosion proofing. I can't really see
where I can set up a spray booth. What have some of the you guys done
out there for corrosion proofing?

How difficult will it be to do all the electrical installation? Do MAM
include any components? The electrical work could be the one thing that
can really slow me down when the time comes. I am lucky when it come to
advice, I work for First Air here in YK and can get a lot of advice
from Electronic techs as well from you guys here.

I have been keeping my eyes open for a tail kit that someone has
abandoned. There was someone on Barnstormers selling the tail and wings
but he decided to withdraw the sale.
I realize that if any of the surfaces are closed I will have to open
them for inspection.

Thanks,

Peter




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[Jesse Jenks]

Peter,
I am just a beginner, so don't put too much stock in my advice. I have
started building my Rebel in a spare bedroom in the house. I decided to
corrosion proof the interior of all the tail surfaces, and had the same
problem as you; no place to spray. I have built both elevators now using a
foam brush and thinning the epoxy chromate quite a bit with acetone. It
brushes on very well when thinned, and gives you a nice thin coat. I found
you have to do a fairly small area and then move on because it gets tacky
very fast. It dries very hard and strong. It seems like a good alternative
to spraying, which is bad for your health anyway. The only problem I have
had so far is the foam brush gets very soft and floppy from the acetone, so
you have to replace it after a short time, or make do. I am going to try a
soft bristled brush. On my second elevator I assembled it right after
chromating. I brushed on another coat of straight primer in the mating
surfaces, and coated the rivets. It seems to work very well. You still need
good ventilation though. I actually did the last one outside, and brought it
in just to finish off the riveting.
Jesse

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[WALTER KLATT]

I still remember going through this with my Rebel many, many years ago. First I did the wet epoxy zinc chromate brushed on the mating surfaces just prior to riveting. Didn't even use a mask for that (not saying you shouldn't it), but still clearly remember the verbal abuse I took from my wife for smelling up the house, even though this was done in an attached garage. Part of the smell problem, was the Metalsol used to clean the surfaces. For the parts that would be covered, eg, wings, I would spray the inside surfaces prior to final riveting, and for that I would move the completed parts outside and used a mask. But never did use a paint booth for anything. The plane itself, I had professionally painted.

Anyway, that's what I did, and so far, still haven't got cancer...

Walter

----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao Piascik" <northofsixty@mac.com>
Date: Thursday, October 21, 2004 9:25 am
Subject: Corrosion Proofing

Hi guys:

Well I've got the bug again. A year ago I looked into buying a
Rebel
kit and got scare into building my own because of the build time.
I
bought a completed one and have enjoyed it very much (wheel, skis,
and
floats). Winter is here in Yellowknife and I am looking to keep
myself
busy. I was down at the hanger where I park my Rebel and found a
Moose
being built. There is three in my family, wife, daughter(6), and
myself, I know in a couple of years the Rebel will be to small for
the
three of us for a weekend camp out. So if I start now in three to
four
years I can have a completed Moose.

I plan on building it here in my attached garage, 18' X 18'. I
have
already pulled my Rebel through town from and to the airport. I
have
taken measurements of the Moose being built at the airport and
have
found it will be possible to do all the components here in my
garage.
My only problem I can see is the corrosion proofing. I can't
really see
where I can set up a spray booth. What have some of the you guys
done
out there for corrosion proofing?

How difficult will it be to do all the electrical installation? Do
MAM
include any components? The electrical work could be the one thing
that
can really slow me down when the time comes. I am lucky when it
come to
advice, I work for First Air here in YK and can get a lot of
advice
from Electronic techs as well from you guys here.

I have been keeping my eyes open for a tail kit that someone has
abandoned. There was someone on Barnstormers selling the tail and
wings
but he decided to withdraw the sale.
I realize that if any of the surfaces are closed I will have to
open
them for inspection.

Thanks,

Peter




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[Rick Harper]

G'day from Below All !

While I will admit that we dipped every rivet in 2 pack zinc
chromate before squeezing them (there'll be no dissimilar metal
electrolysis in our baby !) .... all we used on the internal skins was
zinc OXIDE - these are available in pressure pack cans, are NOT
carcinogenic (still wouldn't advise you sit there & sniff 'em though !
) ..... and we finished with a 2 pack paint that bonds straight to bare
metal ..... and we've won a few prizes at various airshows "down here
"

Rick & Wendy Harper
541 R

PS don't worry too much about the wiring ... it was my biggest "fear"
too .... just draw it up "One circuit at a time" & get it looked over by
someone else who "knows" .... then wire it up one circuit at a time !
----- Original Message -----
From: WALTER KLATT
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Sent: Friday, October 22, 2004 6:47 AM
Subject: Re: Corrosion Proofing


I still remember going through this with my Rebel many, many years
ago. First I did the wet epoxy zinc chromate brushed on the mating
surfaces just prior to riveting. Didn't even use a mask for that (not
saying you shouldn't it), but still clearly remember the verbal abuse I
took from my wife for smelling up the house, even though this was done
in an attached garage. Part of the smell problem, was the Metalsol used
to clean the surfaces. For the parts that would be covered, eg, wings, I
would spray the inside surfaces prior to final riveting, and for that I
would move the completed parts outside and used a mask. But never did
use a paint booth for anything. The plane itself, I had professionally
painted.

Anyway, that's what I did, and so far, still haven't got cancer...

Walter

----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao Piascik" <northofsixty@mac.com>
Date: Thursday, October 21, 2004 9:25 am
Subject: Corrosion Proofing

Hi guys:

Well I've got the bug again. A year ago I looked into buying a
Rebel
kit and got scare into building my own because of the build time.
I
bought a completed one and have enjoyed it very much (wheel, skis,
and
floats). Winter is here in Yellowknife and I am looking to keep
myself
busy. I was down at the hanger where I park my Rebel and found a
Moose
being built. There is three in my family, wife, daughter(6), and
myself, I know in a couple of years the Rebel will be to small for
the
three of us for a weekend camp out. So if I start now in three to
four
years I can have a completed Moose.

I plan on building it here in my attached garage, 18' X 18'. I
have
already pulled my Rebel through town from and to the airport. I
have
taken measurements of the Moose being built at the airport and
have
found it will be possible to do all the components here in my
garage.
My only problem I can see is the corrosion proofing. I can't
really see
where I can set up a spray booth. What have some of the you guys
done
out there for corrosion proofing?

How difficult will it be to do all the electrical installation? Do
MAM
include any components? The electrical work could be the one thing
that
can really slow me down when the time comes. I am lucky when it
come to
advice, I work for First Air here in YK and can get a lot of
advice
from Electronic techs as well from you guys here.

I have been keeping my eyes open for a tail kit that someone has
abandoned. There was someone on Barnstormers selling the tail and
wings
but he decided to withdraw the sale.
I realize that if any of the surfaces are closed I will have to
open
them for inspection.

Thanks,

Peter




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[larry173]

You say 2 pack, did you mean 2 part.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Harper" <rjwh@optusnet.com.au>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 21, 2004 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: Corrosion Proofing

G'day from Below All !

While I will admit that we dipped every rivet in 2 pack zinc
chromate before squeezing them (there'll be no dissimilar metal
electrolysis in our baby !) .... all we used on the internal skins was
zinc OXIDE - these are available in pressure pack cans, are NOT
carcinogenic (still wouldn't advise you sit there & sniff 'em though !
) ..... and we finished with a 2 pack paint that bonds straight to bare
metal ..... and we've won a few prizes at various airshows "down here
"

Rick & Wendy Harper
541 R

PS don't worry too much about the wiring ... it was my biggest "fear"
too .... just draw it up "One circuit at a time" & get it looked over by
someone else who "knows" .... then wire it up one circuit at a time !
----- Original Message -----
From: WALTER KLATT
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Sent: Friday, October 22, 2004 6:47 AM
Subject: Re: Corrosion Proofing


I still remember going through this with my Rebel many, many years
ago. First I did the wet epoxy zinc chromate brushed on the mating
surfaces just prior to riveting. Didn't even use a mask for that (not
saying you shouldn't it), but still clearly remember the verbal abuse I
took from my wife for smelling up the house, even though this was done
in an attached garage. Part of the smell problem, was the Metalsol used
to clean the surfaces. For the parts that would be covered, eg, wings, I
would spray the inside surfaces prior to final riveting, and for that I
would move the completed parts outside and used a mask. But never did
use a paint booth for anything. The plane itself, I had professionally
painted.

Anyway, that's what I did, and so far, still haven't got cancer...

Walter

----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao Piascik" <northofsixty@mac.com>
Date: Thursday, October 21, 2004 9:25 am
Subject: Corrosion Proofing

Hi guys:

Well I've got the bug again. A year ago I looked into buying a
Rebel
kit and got scare into building my own because of the build time.
I
bought a completed one and have enjoyed it very much (wheel, skis,
and
floats). Winter is here in Yellowknife and I am looking to keep
myself
busy. I was down at the hanger where I park my Rebel and found a
Moose
being built. There is three in my family, wife, daughter(6), and
myself, I know in a couple of years the Rebel will be to small for
the
three of us for a weekend camp out. So if I start now in three to
four
years I can have a completed Moose.

I plan on building it here in my attached garage, 18' X 18'. I
have
already pulled my Rebel through town from and to the airport. I
have
taken measurements of the Moose being built at the airport and
have
found it will be possible to do all the components here in my
garage.
My only problem I can see is the corrosion proofing. I can't
really see
where I can set up a spray booth. What have some of the you guys
done
out there for corrosion proofing?

How difficult will it be to do all the electrical installation? Do
MAM
include any components? The electrical work could be the one thing
that
can really slow me down when the time comes. I am lucky when it
come to
advice, I work for First Air here in YK and can get a lot of
advice
from Electronic techs as well from you guys here.

I have been keeping my eyes open for a tail kit that someone has
abandoned. There was someone on Barnstormers selling the tail and
wings
but he decided to withdraw the sale.
I realize that if any of the surfaces are closed I will have to
open
them for inspection.

Thanks,

Peter




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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

..be just an OZ translation, I would think, and considering the time zone
Rick would have gone off to work after that email.

When you buy proseal it comes in a "two pack". One material and one catalyst
wrapped together. Figure that's all he means with the two part epoxy.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "larry173" <larry@thermaire.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 21, 2004 5:50 PM
Subject: Re: Corrosion Proofing

You say 2 pack, did you mean 2 part.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Harper" <rjwh@optusnet.com.au>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 21, 2004 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: Corrosion Proofing

G'day from Below All !

While I will admit that we dipped every rivet in 2 pack zinc
chromate before squeezing them (there'll be no dissimilar metal
electrolysis in our baby !) .... all we used on the internal skins was
zinc OXIDE - these are available in pressure pack cans, are NOT
carcinogenic (still wouldn't advise you sit there & sniff 'em though !
) ..... and we finished with a 2 pack paint that bonds straight to bare
metal ..... and we've won a few prizes at various airshows "down here
"

Rick & Wendy Harper
541 R

PS don't worry too much about the wiring ... it was my biggest "fear"
too .... just draw it up "One circuit at a time" & get it looked over by
someone else who "knows" .... then wire it up one circuit at a time !
----- Original Message -----
From: WALTER KLATT
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Sent: Friday, October 22, 2004 6:47 AM
Subject: Re: Corrosion Proofing


I still remember going through this with my Rebel many, many years
ago. First I did the wet epoxy zinc chromate brushed on the mating
surfaces just prior to riveting. Didn't even use a mask for that (not
saying you shouldn't it), but still clearly remember the verbal abuse I
took from my wife for smelling up the house, even though this was done
in an attached garage. Part of the smell problem, was the Metalsol used
to clean the surfaces. For the parts that would be covered, eg, wings, I
would spray the inside surfaces prior to final riveting, and for that I
would move the completed parts outside and used a mask. But never did
use a paint booth for anything. The plane itself, I had professionally
painted.

Anyway, that's what I did, and so far, still haven't got cancer...

Walter

----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao Piascik" <northofsixty@mac.com>
Date: Thursday, October 21, 2004 9:25 am
Subject: Corrosion Proofing

Hi guys:

Well I've got the bug again. A year ago I looked into buying a
Rebel
kit and got scare into building my own because of the build time.
I
bought a completed one and have enjoyed it very much (wheel, skis,
and
floats). Winter is here in Yellowknife and I am looking to keep
myself
busy. I was down at the hanger where I park my Rebel and found a
Moose
being built. There is three in my family, wife, daughter(6), and
myself, I know in a couple of years the Rebel will be to small for
the
three of us for a weekend camp out. So if I start now in three to
four
years I can have a completed Moose.

I plan on building it here in my attached garage, 18' X 18'. I
have
already pulled my Rebel through town from and to the airport. I
have
taken measurements of the Moose being built at the airport and
have
found it will be possible to do all the components here in my
garage.
My only problem I can see is the corrosion proofing. I can't
really see
where I can set up a spray booth. What have some of the you guys
done
out there for corrosion proofing?

How difficult will it be to do all the electrical installation? Do
MAM
include any components? The electrical work could be the one thing
that
can really slow me down when the time comes. I am lucky when it
come to
advice, I work for First Air here in YK and can get a lot of
advice
from Electronic techs as well from you guys here.

I have been keeping my eyes open for a tail kit that someone has
abandoned. There was someone on Barnstormers selling the tail and
wings
but he decided to withdraw the sale.
I realize that if any of the surfaces are closed I will have to
open
them for inspection.

Thanks,

Peter




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[Rick Harper]

Yep ... same thing
----- Original Message -----
From: larry173
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Sent: Friday, October 22, 2004 7:50 AM
Subject: Re: Corrosion Proofing


You say 2 pack, did you mean 2 part.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Harper" <rjwh@optusnet.com.au>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 21, 2004 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: Corrosion Proofing

G'day from Below All !

While I will admit that we dipped every rivet in 2 pack zinc
chromate before squeezing them (there'll be no dissimilar metal
electrolysis in our baby !) .... all we used on the internal skins

was

zinc OXIDE - these are available in pressure pack cans, are NOT
carcinogenic (still wouldn't advise you sit there & sniff 'em

though !

) ..... and we finished with a 2 pack paint that bonds straight to

bare

metal ..... and we've won a few prizes at various airshows "down

here

"

Rick & Wendy Harper
541 R

PS don't worry too much about the wiring ... it was my biggest

"fear"

too .... just draw it up "One circuit at a time" & get it looked

over by

someone else who "knows" .... then wire it up one circuit at a time

!

----- Original Message -----
From: WALTER KLATT
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Sent: Friday, October 22, 2004 6:47 AM
Subject: Re: Corrosion Proofing


I still remember going through this with my Rebel many, many years
ago. First I did the wet epoxy zinc chromate brushed on the mating
surfaces just prior to riveting. Didn't even use a mask for that

(not

saying you shouldn't it), but still clearly remember the verbal

abuse I

took from my wife for smelling up the house, even though this was

done

in an attached garage. Part of the smell problem, was the Metalsol

used

to clean the surfaces. For the parts that would be covered, eg,

wings, I

would spray the inside surfaces prior to final riveting, and for

that I

would move the completed parts outside and used a mask. But never

did

use a paint booth for anything. The plane itself, I had

professionally

painted.

Anyway, that's what I did, and so far, still haven't got cancer...

Walter

----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao Piascik" <northofsixty@mac.com>
Date: Thursday, October 21, 2004 9:25 am
Subject: Corrosion Proofing

Hi guys:

Well I've got the bug again. A year ago I looked into buying a
Rebel
kit and got scare into building my own because of the build time.

I
bought a completed one and have enjoyed it very much (wheel,

skis,

and
floats). Winter is here in Yellowknife and I am looking to keep
myself
busy. I was down at the hanger where I park my Rebel and found a
Moose
being built. There is three in my family, wife, daughter(6), and
myself, I know in a couple of years the Rebel will be to small

for

the
three of us for a weekend camp out. So if I start now in three to

four
years I can have a completed Moose.

I plan on building it here in my attached garage, 18' X 18'. I
have
already pulled my Rebel through town from and to the airport. I
have
taken measurements of the Moose being built at the airport and
have
found it will be possible to do all the components here in my
garage.
My only problem I can see is the corrosion proofing. I can't
really see
where I can set up a spray booth. What have some of the you guys
done
out there for corrosion proofing?

How difficult will it be to do all the electrical installation?

Do

MAM
include any components? The electrical work could be the one

thing

that
can really slow me down when the time comes. I am lucky when it
come to
advice, I work for First Air here in YK and can get a lot of
advice
from Electronic techs as well from you guys here.

I have been keeping my eyes open for a tail kit that someone has
abandoned. There was someone on Barnstormers selling the tail and

wings
but he decided to withdraw the sale.
I realize that if any of the surfaces are closed I will have to
open
them for inspection.

Thanks,

Peter




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