front spar to root rib

bransom · Post by **bransom** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:05 am

Hi all,
I've got a problem with connecting the front spar (W117) to the root rib.
MAM says the W117s are identical, and then go thru instructions to locate the
fuselage attach fitting (W119), making the spar right (or left) handed.

OK, so I did all that, and unfortunately, proceeded on to doing all the
fittings to root rib, angle attach bracket, etc. After a few rivets are in,
I realize that all the nose ribs will meet their locations on the front spar
3/8" further down than they should. Checking for cause of the trouble, I see
that the two front spars (W117) were not identical out of the box: all the
prepunched holes are 3/8" offset on one compared to the other. If I had per
chance done the above work with the other front spar, I would have had no
problems. At this point I see no good way out other than to order a new
front spar. I'm pretty sure I don't have any basic mistakes, such as the
angle attach bracket (W161) on the wrong side of the root rib, or, perhaps
the front spar on upside down (130deg angle on the bottom instead of top). I
put a couple pictures at
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/ransom/BensAlbum ... 140010.JPG
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/ransom/BensAlbum ... 140011.JPG

If anyone sees anything I've goofed up, or suggestions to above, I'd
appreciate input.
Thanks,
-Ben Ransom

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David Ricker · Post by **David Ricker** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:05 am

Ben

I have looked at our wings and to me it looks like the 117s had to be identical
and this would agree with the manual and my recollection. If you are sure the
front spars you have are not exactly identical then you should speak to MAM about
sending out a replacement. My sanity check was also to verify that both ends of
the spar are punched to fit the front spar attach fitting (even though it is not
used on the tip end). This means there is no left & right spar and the distance
to this set of holes must be the same on both ends of the spar.

A good double check would be to give them the measurement from the end of the
spar to the first set of (vertical line) rivet holes and get verified which was
correct (although it seems like your "other" spar is correct). By your front-on
photo I have doubts that the first set of holes is far enough from the end of the
spar, the bolt holes look pretty close to the edge.

Clear as mud??

Hope this helps, let us know how you make out.

Dave R
www.elite583.cjb.net

bransom@dcsol.com wrote:

Hi all,
I've got a problem with connecting the front spar (W117) to the root rib.
MAM says the W117s are identical, and then go thru instructions to locate the
fuselage attach fitting (W119), making the spar right (or left) handed.

OK, so I did all that, and unfortunately, proceeded on to doing all the
fittings to root rib, angle attach bracket, etc. After a few rivets are in,
I realize that all the nose ribs will meet their locations on the front spar
3/8" further down than they should. Checking for cause of the trouble, I see
that the two front spars (W117) were not identical out of the box: all the
prepunched holes are 3/8" offset on one compared to the other. If I had per
chance done the above work with the other front spar, I would have had no
problems. At this point I see no good way out other than to order a new
front spar. I'm pretty sure I don't have any basic mistakes, such as the
angle attach bracket (W161) on the wrong side of the root rib, or, perhaps
the front spar on upside down (130deg angle on the bottom instead of top). I
put a couple pictures at
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/ransom/BensAlbum ... 140010.JPG
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/ransom/BensAlbum ... 140011.JPG

If anyone sees anything I've goofed up, or suggestions to above, I'd
appreciate input.
Thanks,
-Ben Ransom

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David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada

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bransom · Post by **bransom** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:05 am

Dave, Thanks for your feedback.
Mine is #496 (new in 1995), and the front spar ends at that time were not
prepunched for the attach fitting (W119). I had also bought the newer MAM
and see that the front spar is prepunched for that now-days. I did talk to
Brian@Murphy about my problem and he acknowledged the possibility the holes
could be different between the two spar pieces. It is the simplest thing to
check for -- either a ruler, or laying one spar on top of the other. I am
the second owner of this project, so will just have to eat it on this. As a
12' long piece, it is expensive to ship of course. Brian advised that one
could trim the end off a front spar in a situation such as mine -- although
that would only work before following the MAM instructions that place the
W119 attach fittings in reference to the spar's end instead of the spar's rib
holes. To add insult to injury, MAM specifies this reference distance from
spar end to within a 1/32" measurement. Gad.

I don't want to sound like I'm bad-mouthing Murphy; the above is just simple
fact, and as my start on this project, it has been very frustrating, and a
little forboding as to other potential gotchas. I will be more wary as I
proceed.

BTW, Murhpy's web site shows corrections to the current MAM. Does anyone
know if there are corrections somewhere else that apply to the older MAM?
-Ben Ransom

-> I have looked at our wings and to me it looks like the 117s had to be
identical
-> and this would agree with the manual and my recollection. If you are sure
the
-> front spars you have are not exactly identical then you should speak to
MAM about
-> sending out a replacement. My sanity check was also to verify that both
ends of
-> the spar are punched to fit the front spar attach fitting (even though it
is not
-> used on the tip end). This means there is no left & right spar and the
distance
-> to this set of holes must be the same on both ends of the spar.
->
-> A good double check would be to give them the measurement from the end of
the
-> spar to the first set of (vertical line) rivet holes and get verified
which was
-> correct (although it seems like your "other" spar is correct). By your
front-on
-> photo I have doubts that the first set of holes is far enough from the end
of the
-> spar, the bolt holes look pretty close to the edge.
->
-> Clear as mud??
->
-> Hope this helps, let us know how you make out.
->
-> Dave R
-> www.elite583.cjb.net
->
-> bransom@dcsol.com wrote:
->
-> > Hi all,
-> > I've got a problem with connecting the front spar (W117) to the root rib.
-> > MAM says the W117s are identical, and then go thru instructions to
locate the
-> > fuselage attach fitting (W119), making the spar right (or left) handed.
-> >
-> > OK, so I did all that, and unfortunately, proceeded on to doing all the
-> > fittings to root rib, angle attach bracket, etc. After a few rivets are
in,
-> > I realize that all the nose ribs will meet their locations on the front
spar
-> > 3/8" further down than they should. Checking for cause of the trouble,
I see
-> > that the two front spars (W117) were not identical out of the box: all
the
-> > prepunched holes are 3/8" offset on one compared to the other. If I had
per
-> > chance done the above work with the other front spar, I would have had no
-> > problems. At this point I see no good way out other than to order a new
-> > front spar. I'm pretty sure I don't have any basic mistakes, such as the
-> > angle attach bracket (W161) on the wrong side of the root rib, or,
perhaps
-> > the front spar on upside down (130deg angle on the bottom instead of
top). I
-> > put a couple pictures at
-> > http://mae.ucdavis.edu/ransom/BensAlbum ... 140010.JPG
-> > http://mae.ucdavis.edu/ransom/BensAlbum ... 140011.JPG
-> >
-> > If anyone sees anything I've goofed up, or suggestions to above, I'd
-> > appreciate input.
-> > Thanks,
-> > -Ben Ransom
-> >
-> > *------------------------------------------------------------------------
-*
-> > To unsubscribe from this list go to:
-> > https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
-> > Archives located at https://www.dcsol.com/default.htm
-> > Archives public username "rebel" password "builder"
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-*
->
-> --
-> David A. Ricker
-> Fall River, Nova Scotia
-> Canada
->
->
->

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wrayt · Post by **wrayt** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:05 am

Ben I don't know if this will help you but I rewrote most of my old
manual for R309 as I proceeded and it's on my web site here
http://wrayt.tripod.com/rebman.html
After doing the wings I haven't done any more online updates.
BTW I'm still plugging away as time permits so you know to take it all
with a grain of salt as it's not in the air yet.

Ben Ransom wrote:
......
BTW, Murhpy's web site shows corrections to the current MAM. Does anyone
know if there are corrections somewhere else that apply to the older MAM?
-Ben Ransom

--
Wray Thompson ...Rebel 306 ...home page http://wrayt.tripod.com/
My ICQ number is 29764664

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klehman · Post by **klehman** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:05 am

Ben
I also think that my 1992 front spars were the same. I seem to recall
not being happy with my first attach fitting positioning and just
swapping the spars left for right with no problem. If you are asking
about bulletins for the old 1992 manual, I'm pretty sure that I posted
an index of all those bulletins a couple of years ago so that should be
in the archives. I have 38 of them in total but 2 or 3 of them don't
really apply to the standard Rebel and with a quick glance none of them
seem to refer to the front spar.
Ken

bransom@dcsol.com wrote:

Hi all,
I've got a problem with connecting the front spar (W117) to the root rib.
MAM says the W117s are identical, and then go thru instructions to locate the
fuselage attach fitting (W119), making the spar right (or left) handed.
snip

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Drew Dalgleish · Post by **Drew Dalgleish** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:05 am

Ben If you're working on the first wing why not just use that spar for the
other wing where your messed up holes will be at the outboard end and
shouldn't affect anything. I had a similar problem with one of my wings I
installed the spar upside down. ( The bend angles are different but not
noted in the early manual ) I just flipped it over and started again.
Theres lots of room to drill around the existing holes.
Drew

At 08:46 AM 3/16/2004 -0900, you wrote:

Dave, Thanks for your feedback.
Mine is #496 (new in 1995), and the front spar ends at that time were not
prepunched for the attach fitting (W119). I had also bought the newer MAM
and see that the front spar is prepunched for that now-days. I did talk to
Brian@Murphy about my problem and he acknowledged the possibility the holes
could be different between the two spar pieces. It is the simplest thing to
check for -- either a ruler, or laying one spar on top of the other. I am
the second owner of this project, so will just have to eat it on this. As a
12' long piece, it is expensive to ship of course. Brian advised that one
could trim the end off a front spar in a situation such as mine -- although
that would only work before following the MAM instructions that place the
W119 attach fittings in reference to the spar's end instead of the spar's

rib

holes. To add insult to injury, MAM specifies this reference distance from
spar end to within a 1/32" measurement. Gad.

I don't want to sound like I'm bad-mouthing Murphy; the above is just simple
fact, and as my start on this project, it has been very frustrating, and a
little forboding as to other potential gotchas. I will be more wary as I
proceed.

BTW, Murhpy's web site shows corrections to the current MAM. Does anyone
know if there are corrections somewhere else that apply to the older MAM?
-Ben Ransom

-> I have looked at our wings and to me it looks like the 117s had to be
identical
-> and this would agree with the manual and my recollection. If you are

sure

the
-> front spars you have are not exactly identical then you should speak to
MAM about
-> sending out a replacement. My sanity check was also to verify that both
ends of
-> the spar are punched to fit the front spar attach fitting (even though it
is not
-> used on the tip end). This means there is no left & right spar and the
distance
-> to this set of holes must be the same on both ends of the spar.
->
-> A good double check would be to give them the measurement from the end of
the
-> spar to the first set of (vertical line) rivet holes and get verified
which was
-> correct (although it seems like your "other" spar is correct). By your
front-on
-> photo I have doubts that the first set of holes is far enough from the

end

of the
-> spar, the bolt holes look pretty close to the edge.
->
-> Clear as mud??
->
-> Hope this helps, let us know how you make out.
->
-> Dave R
-> www.elite583.cjb.net
->
-> bransom@dcsol.com wrote:
->
-> > Hi all,
-> > I've got a problem with connecting the front spar (W117) to the root

rib.

-> > MAM says the W117s are identical, and then go thru instructions to
locate the
-> > fuselage attach fitting (W119), making the spar right (or left) handed.
-> >
-> > OK, so I did all that, and unfortunately, proceeded on to doing all the
-> > fittings to root rib, angle attach bracket, etc. After a few rivets

are

in,
-> > I realize that all the nose ribs will meet their locations on the front
spar
-> > 3/8" further down than they should. Checking for cause of the trouble,
I see
-> > that the two front spars (W117) were not identical out of the box: all
the
-> > prepunched holes are 3/8" offset on one compared to the other. If I

had

per
-> > chance done the above work with the other front spar, I would have

had no

-> > problems. At this point I see no good way out other than to order a new
-> > front spar. I'm pretty sure I don't have any basic mistakes, such as

the

-> > angle attach bracket (W161) on the wrong side of the root rib, or,
perhaps
-> > the front spar on upside down (130deg angle on the bottom instead of
top). I
-> > put a couple pictures at
-> > http://mae.ucdavis.edu/ransom/BensAlbum ... 140010.JPG
-> > http://mae.ucdavis.edu/ransom/BensAlbum ... 140011.JPG
-> >
-> > If anyone sees anything I've goofed up, or suggestions to above, I'd
-> > appreciate input.
-> > Thanks,
-> > -Ben Ransom
-> >
-> >

*------------------------------------------------------------------------

-*
-> > To unsubscribe from this list go to:
-> > https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
-> > Archives located at https://www.dcsol.com/default.htm
-> > Archives public username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> >

*------------------------------------------------------------------------

-*
->
-> --
-> David A. Ricker
-> Fall River, Nova Scotia
-> Canada
->
->
->

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Drew

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steve whitenect · Post by **steve whitenect** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:05 am

Ben
I didn't like how the rivet line went on one of my front spars as it came up
against my .032 leading edge (my modification). I made another spar by
setting up a temporary metal break along the side of my work bench. I used
2 6' lengths of cheap piano hinge from local hardware store, screwed a
straight piece of 2X4 12' long to one side of the hinge and the other to the
side of the table. Screwed the new piece of alum to the top of the table
with a full length piece of wood with the edge along the required radius
line and screws thru the area where the lightening holes would eventually be
and bent the edge to the required angle. If I remember right, the alum is
.020 and very easy to bend. Someone shud be able to send u an 8" X 12'
piece rolled up in the mail. Just in case u wanted a new spar!

Steve W.
Rebel 637

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bransom · Post by **bransom** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:05 am

Thanks all for your suggestions on this issue.
On the idea to just substitute and use the other spar, leaving this one for
the left wing, I plan to do the subtitution part of that. But the spar I'm
pulling off with wrong W119 attach holes is now botched at both ends because
the original owner had already made the mistake of putting it on upside down -
- I had corrected that mistake, but with the problem I described at the
beginning of this thread, it now has just too many holes!

Since I have all of the right wing yet to build, I won't necessarily buy the
second spar right away. I even kinda like the suggestion Steve had on making
the bending brake using the side of the workbench and piano hinges. We'll
see. Anyway, I'm now back at it on the right wing, and glad to be moving on.

-Ben

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steve whitenect · Post by **steve whitenect** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:05 am

It worked surprisingly well. Everything must be straight and level. That's
what homebuilding is all about!

Steve W.

From: bransom@dcsol.com
Reply-To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: front spar to root rib
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 09:44:49 -0900

Thanks all for your suggestions on this issue.
On the idea to just substitute and use the other spar, leaving this one for
the left wing, I plan to do the subtitution part of that. But the spar I'm
pulling off with wrong W119 attach holes is now botched at both ends
because
the original owner had already made the mistake of putting it on upside
down -
- I had corrected that mistake, but with the problem I described at the
beginning of this thread, it now has just too many holes!

Since I have all of the right wing yet to build, I won't necessarily buy
the
second spar right away. I even kinda like the suggestion Steve had on
making
the bending brake using the side of the workbench and piano hinges. We'll
see. Anyway, I'm now back at it on the right wing, and glad to be moving
on.

-Ben

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David Ricker · Post by **David Ricker** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:05 am

Ben

I don't know about any of the gotcha's before our kit (Elite583), I'm surprised
you have to drill the front spar attachment points as these are critical for
position.

If you go for a new spar, make arrangements with Sameday courier to ship it
(ground), they are one of the only couriers who will pick up 12ft long parts in
Chiliwack and the price won't be too bad. Watch out for the trucking companies as
they charge an arm and both legs for the same thing. Ask MAM to pack the part for
shipping and they will take care of it.

Well, that's about all I can tell you!

Good luck

Dave

bransom@dcsol.com wrote:

Dave, Thanks for your feedback.
Mine is #496 (new in 1995), and the front spar ends at that time were not
prepunched for the attach fitting (W119). I had also bought the newer MAM
and see that the front spar is prepunched for that now-days. I did talk to
Brian@Murphy about my problem and he acknowledged the possibility the holes
could be different between the two spar pieces. It is the simplest thing to
check for -- either a ruler, or laying one spar on top of the other. I am
the second owner of this project, so will just have to eat it on this. As a
12' long piece, it is expensive to ship of course. Brian advised that one
could trim the end off a front spar in a situation such as mine -- although
that would only work before following the MAM instructions that place the
W119 attach fittings in reference to the spar's end instead of the spar's rib
holes. To add insult to injury, MAM specifies this reference distance from
spar end to within a 1/32" measurement. Gad.

I don't want to sound like I'm bad-mouthing Murphy; the above is just simple
fact, and as my start on this project, it has been very frustrating, and a
little forboding as to other potential gotchas. I will be more wary as I
proceed.

BTW, Murhpy's web site shows corrections to the current MAM. Does anyone
know if there are corrections somewhere else that apply to the older MAM?
-Ben Ransom

-> I have looked at our wings and to me it looks like the 117s had to be
identical
-> and this would agree with the manual and my recollection. If you are sure
the
-> front spars you have are not exactly identical then you should speak to
MAM about
-> sending out a replacement. My sanity check was also to verify that both
ends of
-> the spar are punched to fit the front spar attach fitting (even though it
is not
-> used on the tip end). This means there is no left & right spar and the
distance
-> to this set of holes must be the same on both ends of the spar.
->
-> A good double check would be to give them the measurement from the end of
the
-> spar to the first set of (vertical line) rivet holes and get verified
which was
-> correct (although it seems like your "other" spar is correct). By your
front-on
-> photo I have doubts that the first set of holes is far enough from the end
of the
-> spar, the bolt holes look pretty close to the edge.
->
-> Clear as mud??
->
-> Hope this helps, let us know how you make out.
->
-> Dave R
-> www.elite583.cjb.net
->
-> bransom@dcsol.com wrote:
->
-> > Hi all,
-> > I've got a problem with connecting the front spar (W117) to the root rib.
-> > MAM says the W117s are identical, and then go thru instructions to
locate the
-> > fuselage attach fitting (W119), making the spar right (or left) handed.
-> >
-> > OK, so I did all that, and unfortunately, proceeded on to doing all the
-> > fittings to root rib, angle attach bracket, etc. After a few rivets are
in,
-> > I realize that all the nose ribs will meet their locations on the front
spar
-> > 3/8" further down than they should. Checking for cause of the trouble,
I see
-> > that the two front spars (W117) were not identical out of the box: all
the
-> > prepunched holes are 3/8" offset on one compared to the other. If I had
per
-> > chance done the above work with the other front spar, I would have had no
-> > problems. At this point I see no good way out other than to order a new
-> > front spar. I'm pretty sure I don't have any basic mistakes, such as the
-> > angle attach bracket (W161) on the wrong side of the root rib, or,
perhaps
-> > the front spar on upside down (130deg angle on the bottom instead of
top). I
-> > put a couple pictures at
-> > http://mae.ucdavis.edu/ransom/BensAlbum ... 140010.JPG
-> > http://mae.ucdavis.edu/ransom/BensAlbum ... 140011.JPG
-> >
-> > If anyone sees anything I've goofed up, or suggestions to above, I'd
-> > appreciate input.
-> > Thanks,
-> > -Ben Ransom
-> >
-> > *------------------------------------------------------------------------
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-> > To unsubscribe from this list go to:
-> > https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
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-> > Archives public username "rebel" password "builder"
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->
-> --
-> David A. Ricker
-> Fall River, Nova Scotia
-> Canada
->
->
->

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David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada

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Mike Hopper · Post by **Mike Hopper** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:05 am

I've also used the left spar to replace what I thought was a major goof.
I've also considered flipping it but since the doubler had been installed,
there'd be lots of little holes on the tip end of the left wing. Would this
be a problem?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2004 8:40 PM
Subject: Re: front spar to root rib

Ben If you're working on the first wing why not just use that spar for the
other wing where your messed up holes will be at the outboard end and
shouldn't affect anything. I had a similar problem with one of my wings I
installed the spar upside down. ( The bend angles are different but not
noted in the early manual ) I just flipped it over and started again.
Theres lots of room to drill around the existing holes.
Drew

At 08:46 AM 3/16/2004 -0900, you wrote:
Dave, Thanks for your feedback.
Mine is #496 (new in 1995), and the front spar ends at that time were not
prepunched for the attach fitting (W119). I had also bought the newer

MAM

and see that the front spar is prepunched for that now-days. I did talk

to

Brian@Murphy about my problem and he acknowledged the possibility the

holes

could be different between the two spar pieces. It is the simplest thing

to

check for -- either a ruler, or laying one spar on top of the other. I

am

the second owner of this project, so will just have to eat it on this.

As a

12' long piece, it is expensive to ship of course. Brian advised that

one

could trim the end off a front spar in a situation such as mine --

although

that would only work before following the MAM instructions that place the
W119 attach fittings in reference to the spar's end instead of the spar's
rib
holes. To add insult to injury, MAM specifies this reference distance

from

spar end to within a 1/32" measurement. Gad.

I don't want to sound like I'm bad-mouthing Murphy; the above is just

simple

fact, and as my start on this project, it has been very frustrating, and

a

little forboding as to other potential gotchas. I will be more wary as I
proceed.

BTW, Murhpy's web site shows corrections to the current MAM. Does anyone
know if there are corrections somewhere else that apply to the older MAM?
-Ben Ransom

-> I have looked at our wings and to me it looks like the 117s had to be
identical
-> and this would agree with the manual and my recollection. If you are
sure
the
-> front spars you have are not exactly identical then you should speak

to

MAM about
-> sending out a replacement. My sanity check was also to verify that

both

ends of
-> the spar are punched to fit the front spar attach fitting (even though

it

is not
-> used on the tip end). This means there is no left & right spar and

the

distance
-> to this set of holes must be the same on both ends of the spar.
->
-> A good double check would be to give them the measurement from the end

of

the
-> spar to the first set of (vertical line) rivet holes and get verified
which was
-> correct (although it seems like your "other" spar is correct). By

your

front-on
-> photo I have doubts that the first set of holes is far enough from the
end
of the
-> spar, the bolt holes look pretty close to the edge.
->
-> Clear as mud??
->
-> Hope this helps, let us know how you make out.
->
-> Dave R
-> www.elite583.cjb.net
->
-> bransom@dcsol.com wrote:
->
-> > Hi all,
-> > I've got a problem with connecting the front spar (W117) to the root
rib.
-> > MAM says the W117s are identical, and then go thru instructions to
locate the
-> > fuselage attach fitting (W119), making the spar right (or left)

handed.

-> >
-> > OK, so I did all that, and unfortunately, proceeded on to doing all

the

-> > fittings to root rib, angle attach bracket, etc. After a few rivets
are
in,
-> > I realize that all the nose ribs will meet their locations on the

front

spar
-> > 3/8" further down than they should. Checking for cause of the

trouble,

I see
-> > that the two front spars (W117) were not identical out of the box:

all

the
-> > prepunched holes are 3/8" offset on one compared to the other. If I
had
per
-> > chance done the above work with the other front spar, I would have
had no
-> > problems. At this point I see no good way out other than to order a

new

-> > front spar. I'm pretty sure I don't have any basic mistakes, such

as

the
-> > angle attach bracket (W161) on the wrong side of the root rib, or,
perhaps
-> > the front spar on upside down (130deg angle on the bottom instead of
top). I
-> > put a couple pictures at
-> > http://mae.ucdavis.edu/ransom/BensAlbum ... 140010.JPG
-> > http://mae.ucdavis.edu/ransom/BensAlbum ... 140011.JPG
-> >
-> > If anyone sees anything I've goofed up, or suggestions to above, I'd
-> > appreciate input.
-> > Thanks,
-> > -Ben Ransom
-> >
-> >
*------------------------------------------------------------------------
-*
-> > To unsubscribe from this list go to:
-> > https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
-> > Archives located at https://www.dcsol.com/default.htm
-> > Archives public username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> >
*------------------------------------------------------------------------
-*
->
-> --
-> David A. Ricker
-> Fall River, Nova Scotia
-> Canada
->
->
->

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Drew

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Wayne G. O'Shea · Post by **Wayne G. O'Shea** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:05 am

No, considering that you can cut out any of the last two bays leading edge
completely... for landing light installation!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Hopper" <mahopper@telusplanet.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2004 1:35 PM
Subject: Re: front spar to root rib

I've also considered flipping it but since the doubler had been installed,
there'd be lots of little holes on the tip end of the left wing. Would

this

be a problem?

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Mike Hopper · Post by **Mike Hopper** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:05 am

Thank you Wayne, that sure helps!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2004 11:46 AM
Subject: Re: front spar to root rib

No, considering that you can cut out any of the last two bays leading edge
completely... for landing light installation!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Hopper" <mahopper@telusplanet.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2004 1:35 PM
Subject: Re: front spar to root rib

I've also considered flipping it but since the doubler had been

installed,

there'd be lots of little holes on the tip end of the left wing. Would
this
be a problem?

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