Trimming Nose Bowl

[Jeffrey Steenson]

Dear Builders,

To those of you who have built the traditional nose bowl cowling --

Are there any neat tricks to cut off the outer flange smoothly and
accurately? I ran a pencil around the flange to mark the edge and was
planning to take a dremel took to it. Or can you get a nice finish by using
a bandsaw with the nosebowl flat on the table?

I have noted the several suggestions to rivet a 2" strip of .040 on which to
rest the doors. I assume I will need my fluting pliers for this!

Many thanks,

Jeffrey Steenson
E714




*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Jeffrey Steenson]

Dear Ken,

Thanks for reminding me about the usefulness of the belt sander. Should I
be drilling the holes in the fiberglass slightly oversize? I seem to
remember having to do this before with the wingtips.
Best wishes!

Jeffrey
----- Original Message -----
From: <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2004 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: Trimming Nose Bowl

Hi Jeffrey

I had good results by marking it and using an 18" fixed belt sander. My
next choice would have been a handheld belt sander. Don't forget to wear
a dust mask. I might have done some rough cutting with a 7" disc in a
handheld grinder prior to sanding.

For the metal strips, I used 4 pieces with doublers at the joints and
just a little bit of shrinking. Fluting pliers would also do I'm sure.
I've also seen it done by just cutting a bunch of 1" deep tabs instead
of shrinking.

FWIW I prefer cheap pop rivets that don't expand radially instead of the
avex rivets for fibreglass and acrylic.

Ken

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[klehman]

Hi Jeffrey

I had good results by marking it and using an 18" fixed belt sander. My
next choice would have been a handheld belt sander. Don't forget to wear
a dust mask. I might have done some rough cutting with a 7" disc in a
handheld grinder prior to sanding.

For the metal strips, I used 4 pieces with doublers at the joints and
just a little bit of shrinking. Fluting pliers would also do I'm sure.
I've also seen it done by just cutting a bunch of 1" deep tabs instead
of shrinking.

FWIW I prefer cheap pop rivets that don't expand radially instead of the
avex rivets for fibreglass and acrylic.

Ken

Jeffrey Steenson wrote:

Dear Builders,

To those of you who have built the traditional nose bowl cowling --

Are there any neat tricks to cut off the outer flange smoothly and
accurately? I ran a pencil around the flange to mark the edge and was
planning to take a dremel took to it. Or can you get a nice finish by using
a bandsaw with the nosebowl flat on the table?

I have noted the several suggestions to rivet a 2" strip of .040 on which to
rest the doors. I assume I will need my fluting pliers for this!

Many thanks,

Jeffrey Steenson
E714

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Bob Patterson]

Hi Jeffrey !

I like your idea of a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel -
I've used that to trim the winshield, and it works great, and
fast, too !! You can always finish up the edge with a belt
sander - these things are SOOOO handy for lots of things,
like deburring large awkward objects, and final shaping ...

You shouldn't need to do much fluting - it's a pretty
large oval. :-) If you want a different look, you might
have a peek at the Thorp T-18 nose bowls at Aircraft Spruce -
there's one that DOESN'T need a prop spacer. Moves that heavy
prop back 2" more !!!

......bobp

---------------------------------orig.---------------------------
At 10:44 AM 1/17/04 -0700, you wrote:

Dear Builders,

To those of you who have built the traditional nose bowl cowling --

Are there any neat tricks to cut off the outer flange smoothly and
accurately? I ran a pencil around the flange to mark the edge and was
planning to take a dremel took to it. Or can you get a nice finish by using
a bandsaw with the nosebowl flat on the table?

I have noted the several suggestions to rivet a 2" strip of .040 on which to
rest the doors. I assume I will need my fluting pliers for this!

Many thanks,

Jeffrey Steenson
E714




*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[klehman]

You are most welcome. I found the belt sander was good for getting a
straight edge and also safer than the band saw on large awkward pieces.
For the pop rivets I just drilled #30 but yes I think it is a good idea
to oversize a bit if using the avex ones in fibreglass. The pop rivets
are like the stainless rivets where the end pulls in but the rivet
barrel doesn't really seem to expand.
Ken

Jeffrey Steenson wrote:

Dear Ken,

Thanks for reminding me about the usefulness of the belt sander. Should I
be drilling the holes in the fiberglass slightly oversize? I seem to
remember having to do this before with the wingtips.
Best wishes!

Jeffrey

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Alan Hepburn]

Another tool I've found really handy for trimming the windshield, for
example, is a little circular saw that fits on the Dremel tool. Now, before
you guys throw up and say "this guy's crazy", the blade is only about 1 3/4"
in diameter, and is fitted in a clear plastic protective guard. Great for
straight cuts. I also used it to cut out my skylights, but that was kind of
hard on the blade.

Al Hepburn



*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------