Float strut material

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Pretty quiet so thought I'd throw out a "tidbit" for all the guys mounting
their floats this winter/spring.

Had another guy (that I'll leave anonymous till he wants to introduce
himself here!!) come by for a piece of streamline tube after cutting one too
many from the same 12' supplied length.

It is imperative that you cut all three struts for the SAME side of the
airplane from each length. It only leaves a small piece of scrape doing
this. Any other way and you'll be short material.

It is also important that you start at the proper end of the 12' length, or
thanks to the angle cuts you'll end up short as well!!

If you set the full length down on the floor with the rounded (fwd) edge
pointing AWAY from you the front strut for the 1800's gets cut from the end
to the LEFT of you (make sure you get the angle going the right way as well
or you will come up short material as well - measured length from the LEFT
square end will be longer on the fwd edge than rear edge). This angle you
just cut is the bottom of the front strut and then you will need to cut the
square end to the same angle for the top. Then the angle and the remaining
material that you have just cut is pretty close to the angle at the bottom
of the diagonal. Next you would cut the square ended rear strut from the
RIGHT end of the length, leaving you the diagonal piece of material with
enough left for final trimming to length.

Wayne




*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Walter Klatt]

I use the 74 X 54 Sensenich on my 150 hp Rebel on 1800 amphibs.
Seems to be well matched and a good all around prop. Static RPM
is 2500 and it will hit 2700+ at full throttle straight and
level. Climb is 2550.

So with 10 more hp the 74 X 56 may have similar performance.

If I was doing it again, though, I would try the 74 X 52 on mine,
because for my type of flying, I would prefer a little more take
off and climb performance. I may then have to increase my cruise
RPM by about 100 or so to get the same cruise speed. Top speed
would likely suffer, but then I don't cruise at full throttle
anyway, so that does not matter.

Good to hear of another Rebel about to fly on floats. You'll love
it, I'm sure.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Bob
Fisher
Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2003 6:16 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Float strut material


hi all i`m the guy thanks for bringing this to
everyones attention
wayne!

bob fisher nobel ontario rebel 342 0-320 160
hp going on phil
stubley`s mostly built amphibs

question? who out there is using a 74'' sensenich
?( on floats) and what
pitch seems to work well mine is 56'


From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2003 11:02 PM
Subject: Float strut material

Pretty quiet so thought I'd throw out a "tidbit" for

all the guys mounting

their floats this winter/spring.

Had another guy (that I'll leave anonymous till he

wants to introduce

himself here!!) come by for a piece of streamline

tube after cutting one
too

many from the same 12' supplied length.

It is imperative that you cut all three struts for

the SAME side of the

airplane from each length. It only leaves a small

piece of scrape doing

this. Any other way and you'll be short material.

It is also important that you start at the proper

end of the 12' length,
or

thanks to the angle cuts you'll end up short as well!!

If you set the full length down on the floor with

the rounded (fwd) edge

pointing AWAY from you the front strut for the

1800's gets cut from the
end

to the LEFT of you (make sure you get the angle

going the right way as
well

or you will come up short material as well -

measured length from the LEFT

square end will be longer on the fwd edge than rear

edge). This angle you

just cut is the bottom of the front strut and then

you will need to cut
the

square end to the same angle for the top. Then the

angle and the remaining

material that you have just cut is pretty close to

the angle at the bottom

of the diagonal. Next you would cut the square ended

rear strut from the

RIGHT end of the length, leaving you the diagonal

piece of material with

enough left for final trimming to length.

Wayne

*------------------------------------------------------
-------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at

https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm

To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*------------------------------------------------------
-------------------*



*------------------------------------------------------
-------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at
https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*------------------------------------------------------
-------------------*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Jerry Purdom]

Hi Bob
Jerry here,if you don't mind I'm curious about the brand of floats you
mentioned Phil Stubley's,any info on floats,size,price,etc would be
appreciated.It will be interesting about info on props out there to.
THANKS
jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Fisher <rgfisher@zeuter.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2003 6:15 AM
Subject: Re: Float strut material

hi all i`m the guy thanks for bringing this to everyones attention
wayne!

bob fisher nobel ontario rebel 342 0-320 160 hp going on phil
stubley`s mostly built amphibs

question? who out there is using a 74'' sensenich ?( on floats) and

what

pitch seems to work well mine is 56'


From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2003 11:02 PM
Subject: Float strut material

Pretty quiet so thought I'd throw out a "tidbit" for all the guys

mounting

their floats this winter/spring.

Had another guy (that I'll leave anonymous till he wants to introduce
himself here!!) come by for a piece of streamline tube after cutting one

too

many from the same 12' supplied length.

It is imperative that you cut all three struts for the SAME side of the
airplane from each length. It only leaves a small piece of scrape doing
this. Any other way and you'll be short material.

It is also important that you start at the proper end of the 12' length,

or

thanks to the angle cuts you'll end up short as well!!

If you set the full length down on the floor with the rounded (fwd) edge
pointing AWAY from you the front strut for the 1800's gets cut from the

end

to the LEFT of you (make sure you get the angle going the right way as

well

or you will come up short material as well - measured length from the

LEFT

square end will be longer on the fwd edge than rear edge). This angle

you

just cut is the bottom of the front strut and then you will need to cut

the

square end to the same angle for the top. Then the angle and the

remaining

material that you have just cut is pretty close to the angle at the

bottom

of the diagonal. Next you would cut the square ended rear strut from the
RIGHT end of the length, leaving you the diagonal piece of material with
enough left for final trimming to length.

Wayne

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*



*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Bob Fisher]

hi all i`m the guy thanks for bringing this to everyones attention
wayne!

bob fisher nobel ontario rebel 342 0-320 160 hp going on phil
stubley`s mostly built amphibs

question? who out there is using a 74'' sensenich ?( on floats) and what
pitch seems to work well mine is 56'


From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2003 11:02 PM
Subject: Float strut material

Pretty quiet so thought I'd throw out a "tidbit" for all the guys mounting
their floats this winter/spring.

Had another guy (that I'll leave anonymous till he wants to introduce
himself here!!) come by for a piece of streamline tube after cutting one

too

many from the same 12' supplied length.

It is imperative that you cut all three struts for the SAME side of the
airplane from each length. It only leaves a small piece of scrape doing
this. Any other way and you'll be short material.

It is also important that you start at the proper end of the 12' length,

or

thanks to the angle cuts you'll end up short as well!!

If you set the full length down on the floor with the rounded (fwd) edge
pointing AWAY from you the front strut for the 1800's gets cut from the

end

to the LEFT of you (make sure you get the angle going the right way as

well

or you will come up short material as well - measured length from the LEFT
square end will be longer on the fwd edge than rear edge). This angle you
just cut is the bottom of the front strut and then you will need to cut

the

square end to the same angle for the top. Then the angle and the remaining
material that you have just cut is pretty close to the angle at the bottom
of the diagonal. Next you would cut the square ended rear strut from the
RIGHT end of the length, leaving you the diagonal piece of material with
enough left for final trimming to length.

Wayne

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*



*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Walter Klatt]

Yes, even my current 74 X 54 will exceed 2700, but it's the take
off and climb I'm after. That's also why I'm interested in the
Borer.

Looking forward to getting you out here in the spring, Bruce.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Wayne G. O'Shea
Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2003 7:03 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Float strut material


Howard's running a 74DM-52 which in my mind is a bit
too fine for his 150HP,
but he is happy with it and I guess that's all the
matters. Pretty sure it
will exceed 2700rpm in level flight but it sure leaves
the water in a HURRY!
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@aol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2003 10:01 PM
Subject: Re: Float strut material

Hi Bob,

I use a 74x56 metal Sensenich 0320 150HP on wheels

right now and mounting

amphibs this winter.

I have to climb to 7500 feet to get full throttle

and not over speed.
That's

the altitude most normally aspirated engines will

only produce 75% power
on a

normal day at full throttle anyway.

It has good climb though, and I can cruise at 120

MPH IAS at 75%. Give or

take.

Walter,

You suggested a 74x52...hmm, that might be to fine.

It sure would get out
of

the water quick. I believe MAM suggests the 56 or 54

for floats. Not sure

though. Sensenich does say 56 for a climb prop on

our engine/plane combo.

We will have to do some comparisons with our planes

this spring.

Bruce

*------------------------------------------------------
-------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at

https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm

To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*----------------------------------------------------------------
---------*



*----------------------------------------------------------------
---------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at
https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*----------------------------------------------------------------
---------*





*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Bob Fisher]

hi jerry these are murphy floats 1800 with gear i would rather not
say what i paid , but it was a lot!

i hope they will be worth it i`ve been spoiled as i have had two planes
over the past 18 years but both amphibious

bob fisher

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Purdom" <jerrygoneflying@shaw.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2003 9:56 AM
Subject: Re: Float strut material

Hi Bob
Jerry here,if you don't mind I'm curious about the brand of floats you
mentioned Phil Stubley's,any info on floats,size,price,etc would be
appreciated.It will be interesting about info on props out there to.
THANKS
jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Fisher <rgfisher@zeuter.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2003 6:15 AM
Subject: Re: Float strut material

hi all i`m the guy thanks for bringing this to everyones attention
wayne!

bob fisher nobel ontario rebel 342 0-320 160 hp going on phil
stubley`s mostly built amphibs

question? who out there is using a 74'' sensenich ?( on floats) and

what

pitch seems to work well mine is 56'


From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2003 11:02 PM
Subject: Float strut material

Pretty quiet so thought I'd throw out a "tidbit" for all the guys

mounting

their floats this winter/spring.

Had another guy (that I'll leave anonymous till he wants to introduce
himself here!!) come by for a piece of streamline tube after cutting

one

too

many from the same 12' supplied length.

It is imperative that you cut all three struts for the SAME side of

the

airplane from each length. It only leaves a small piece of scrape

doing

this. Any other way and you'll be short material.

It is also important that you start at the proper end of the 12'

length,

or

thanks to the angle cuts you'll end up short as well!!

If you set the full length down on the floor with the rounded (fwd)

edge

pointing AWAY from you the front strut for the 1800's gets cut from

the

end

to the LEFT of you (make sure you get the angle going the right way as

well

or you will come up short material as well - measured length from the

LEFT

square end will be longer on the fwd edge than rear edge). This angle

you

just cut is the bottom of the front strut and then you will need to

cut

the

square end to the same angle for the top. Then the angle and the

remaining

material that you have just cut is pretty close to the angle at the

bottom

of the diagonal. Next you would cut the square ended rear strut from

the

RIGHT end of the length, leaving you the diagonal piece of material

with

enough left for final trimming to length.

Wayne

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*



*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Bob Fisher]

hi walter thanks much for the info on your prop i guess the best thing
to do is to try it out with the existing prop and if it is too coarse, have
it repitched!

bob fisher
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <walter.klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2003 9:42 AM
Subject: RE: Float strut material

I use the 74 X 54 Sensenich on my 150 hp Rebel on 1800 amphibs.
Seems to be well matched and a good all around prop. Static RPM
is 2500 and it will hit 2700+ at full throttle straight and
level. Climb is 2550.

So with 10 more hp the 74 X 56 may have similar performance.

If I was doing it again, though, I would try the 74 X 52 on mine,
because for my type of flying, I would prefer a little more take
off and climb performance. I may then have to increase my cruise
RPM by about 100 or so to get the same cruise speed. Top speed
would likely suffer, but then I don't cruise at full throttle
anyway, so that does not matter.

Good to hear of another Rebel about to fly on floats. You'll love
it, I'm sure.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Bob
Fisher
Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2003 6:16 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Float strut material


hi all i`m the guy thanks for bringing this to
everyones attention
wayne!

bob fisher nobel ontario rebel 342 0-320 160
hp going on phil
stubley`s mostly built amphibs

question? who out there is using a 74'' sensenich
?( on floats) and what
pitch seems to work well mine is 56'


From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2003 11:02 PM
Subject: Float strut material

Pretty quiet so thought I'd throw out a "tidbit" for

all the guys mounting

their floats this winter/spring.

Had another guy (that I'll leave anonymous till he

wants to introduce

himself here!!) come by for a piece of streamline

tube after cutting one
too

many from the same 12' supplied length.

It is imperative that you cut all three struts for

the SAME side of the

airplane from each length. It only leaves a small

piece of scrape doing

this. Any other way and you'll be short material.

It is also important that you start at the proper

end of the 12' length,
or

thanks to the angle cuts you'll end up short as well!!

If you set the full length down on the floor with

the rounded (fwd) edge

pointing AWAY from you the front strut for the

1800's gets cut from the
end

to the LEFT of you (make sure you get the angle

going the right way as
well

or you will come up short material as well -

measured length from the LEFT

square end will be longer on the fwd edge than rear

edge). This angle you

just cut is the bottom of the front strut and then

you will need to cut
the

square end to the same angle for the top. Then the

angle and the remaining

material that you have just cut is pretty close to

the angle at the bottom

of the diagonal. Next you would cut the square ended

rear strut from the

RIGHT end of the length, leaving you the diagonal

piece of material with

enough left for final trimming to length.

Wayne

*------------------------------------------------------
-------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at

https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm

To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*------------------------------------------------------
-------------------*



*------------------------------------------------------
-------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at
https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*------------------------------------------------------
-------------------*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*



*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Legeorgen]

Hi Bob,

I use a 74x56 metal Sensenich 0320 150HP on wheels right now and mounting
amphibs this winter.

I have to climb to 7500 feet to get full throttle and not over speed. That's
the altitude most normally aspirated engines will only produce 75% power on a
normal day at full throttle anyway.

It has good climb though, and I can cruise at 120 MPH IAS at 75%. Give or
take.

Walter,

You suggested a 74x52...hmm, that might be to fine. It sure would get out of
the water quick. I believe MAM suggests the 56 or 54 for floats. Not sure
though. Sensenich does say 56 for a climb prop on our engine/plane combo.

We will have to do some comparisons with our planes this spring.

Bruce



*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Howard's running a 74DM-52 which in my mind is a bit too fine for his 150HP,
but he is happy with it and I guess that's all the matters. Pretty sure it
will exceed 2700rpm in level flight but it sure leaves the water in a HURRY!
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@aol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2003 10:01 PM
Subject: Re: Float strut material

Hi Bob,

I use a 74x56 metal Sensenich 0320 150HP on wheels right now and mounting
amphibs this winter.

I have to climb to 7500 feet to get full throttle and not over speed.

That's

the altitude most normally aspirated engines will only produce 75% power

on a

normal day at full throttle anyway.

It has good climb though, and I can cruise at 120 MPH IAS at 75%. Give or
take.

Walter,

You suggested a 74x52...hmm, that might be to fine. It sure would get out

of

the water quick. I believe MAM suggests the 56 or 54 for floats. Not sure
though. Sensenich does say 56 for a climb prop on our engine/plane combo.

We will have to do some comparisons with our planes this spring.

Bruce

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*



*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Legeorgen]

Wayne,

I hear the parts of the North East are getting as much as 3 and 4 feet of
snow fall. Did you receive that much snow fall? How long does it take to remove
the wheels or floats and mount your ski's on the Rebel?

Bruce



*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Walter Klatt]

Yup, that makes sense. You are over revving with the 74 X 56 as I
would expect with 160 hp. I would try it on floats with this
pitch before flattening it to 54. That's what mine is, and it
will over rev slightly on floats with 150 hp. My climb is at 2550
RPM. Which landing gear do you have now, spring gear or bungie?

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Bob
Fisher
Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2003 1:41 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Float strut material


hi walter i tried my rebel yesterday at 2000 ft
-7 degrees c and i
am getting about 2725 to 2750 w.o.t. ( about 130
mph) and that is a 160
hp in good shape ? i think ? 265 hrs!

my impression is that the prop will need to be
flattened a little , 2-4
inches? when i get the floats on this spring

climb out when warmed up is about 2500 at 70mph.

does this make sense to you? bob fisher

----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@aol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2003 10:01 PM
Subject: Re: Float strut material

Hi Bob,

I use a 74x56 metal Sensenich 0320 150HP on wheels

right now and mounting

amphibs this winter.

I have to climb to 7500 feet to get full throttle

and not over speed.
That's

the altitude most normally aspirated engines will

only produce 75% power
on a

normal day at full throttle anyway.

It has good climb though, and I can cruise at 120

MPH IAS at 75%. Give or

take.

Walter,

You suggested a 74x52...hmm, that might be to fine.

It sure would get out
of

the water quick. I believe MAM suggests the 56 or 54

for floats. Not sure

though. Sensenich does say 56 for a climb prop on

our engine/plane combo.

We will have to do some comparisons with our planes

this spring.

Bruce

*------------------------------------------------------
-------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at

https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm

To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*------------------------------------------------------
-------------------*



*------------------------------------------------------
-------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at
https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*------------------------------------------------------
-------------------*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Bob Fisher]

hi walter i tried my rebel yesterday at 2000 ft -7 degrees c and i
am getting about 2725 to 2750 w.o.t. ( about 130 mph) and that is a 160
hp in good shape ? i think ? 265 hrs!

my impression is that the prop will need to be flattened a little , 2-4
inches? when i get the floats on this spring

climb out when warmed up is about 2500 at 70mph.

does this make sense to you? bob fisher

----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@aol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2003 10:01 PM
Subject: Re: Float strut material

Hi Bob,

I use a 74x56 metal Sensenich 0320 150HP on wheels right now and mounting
amphibs this winter.

I have to climb to 7500 feet to get full throttle and not over speed.

That's

the altitude most normally aspirated engines will only produce 75% power

on a

normal day at full throttle anyway.

It has good climb though, and I can cruise at 120 MPH IAS at 75%. Give or
take.

Walter,

You suggested a 74x52...hmm, that might be to fine. It sure would get out

of

the water quick. I believe MAM suggests the 56 or 54 for floats. Not sure
though. Sensenich does say 56 for a climb prop on our engine/plane combo.

We will have to do some comparisons with our planes this spring.

Bruce

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*



*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Bob Fisher]

bungie covered with a vinyl bag works good but maybe not as aerodynamic
as waynes springs?

bob patterson noted that the front of my gear legs are not fared ie; flat 1
in square tubing that would slow things down!

anyway it will all be gone in march? i hope. i`m almost ready to paint my
floats, just the sides- gun metal grey flat and the top black? flat
ala the big guys

bob fisher



----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <walter.klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2003 6:23 PM
Subject: RE: Float strut material

Yup, that makes sense. You are over revving with the 74 X 56 as I
would expect with 160 hp. I would try it on floats with this
pitch before flattening it to 54. That's what mine is, and it
will over rev slightly on floats with 150 hp. My climb is at 2550
RPM. Which landing gear do you have now, spring gear or bungie?

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Bob
Fisher
Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2003 1:41 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Float strut material


hi walter i tried my rebel yesterday at 2000 ft
-7 degrees c and i
am getting about 2725 to 2750 w.o.t. ( about 130
mph) and that is a 160
hp in good shape ? i think ? 265 hrs!

my impression is that the prop will need to be
flattened a little , 2-4
inches? when i get the floats on this spring

climb out when warmed up is about 2500 at 70mph.

does this make sense to you? bob fisher

----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@aol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2003 10:01 PM
Subject: Re: Float strut material

Hi Bob,

I use a 74x56 metal Sensenich 0320 150HP on wheels

right now and mounting

amphibs this winter.

I have to climb to 7500 feet to get full throttle

and not over speed.
That's

the altitude most normally aspirated engines will

only produce 75% power
on a

normal day at full throttle anyway.

It has good climb though, and I can cruise at 120

MPH IAS at 75%. Give or

take.

Walter,

You suggested a 74x52...hmm, that might be to fine.

It sure would get out
of

the water quick. I believe MAM suggests the 56 or 54

for floats. Not sure

though. Sensenich does say 56 for a climb prop on

our engine/plane combo.

We will have to do some comparisons with our planes

this spring.

Bruce

*------------------------------------------------------
-------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at

https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm

To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*------------------------------------------------------
-------------------*



*------------------------------------------------------
-------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at
https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*------------------------------------------------------
-------------------*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*



*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------