Removing broken bit

[Scott & Leere' Aldrich]

Broke a pilot bit off drilling through a 1.75 inch thick block of 6061
(Moose rear float fitting). Any ideas on how to remove. It is a #30 and
the hole needs to go up to 5/16.

Thanks,
Scott





*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Scott & Leere' Aldrich]

Thanks Ken, I thought of drilling from the back side last night. Drilled
until I thought I hit the other bit. Tried punching, no work. Okay maybe
drill a little farther...bonk. Now I have broken drill bits from both sides
S#%t...

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
klehman@albedo.net
Sent: Friday, December 05, 2003 6:03 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Removing broken bit


I've got a wee can of Green aluminum cutting fluid/lubricant that I find
is essential for drilling/tapping thick aluminum. You'll want some
before proceeding.

Can drill from the back side? It will destroy the bit when they touch
but if you are lucky you will be able to then drive a 1/8" punch through
from the back. Gently warming it may help but I don't like to let it get
hot enough to boil water for fear of loosing the heat treating.

Good luck
Ken

Scott & Leere' Aldrich wrote:

Broke a pilot bit off drilling through a 1.75 inch thick block of 6061
(Moose rear float fitting). Any ideas on how to remove. It is a #30 and
the hole needs to go up to 5/16.

Thanks,
Scott

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*





*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*






*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[klehman]

I've got a wee can of Green aluminum cutting fluid/lubricant that I find
is essential for drilling/tapping thick aluminum. You'll want some
before proceeding.

Can drill from the back side? It will destroy the bit when they touch
but if you are lucky you will be able to then drive a 1/8" punch through
from the back. Gently warming it may help but I don't like to let it get
hot enough to boil water for fear of loosing the heat treating.

Good luck
Ken

Scott & Leere' Aldrich wrote:

Broke a pilot bit off drilling through a 1.75 inch thick block of 6061
(Moose rear float fitting). Any ideas on how to remove. It is a #30 and
the hole needs to go up to 5/16.

Thanks,
Scott





*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Bill Delcambre]

Bite the bullet, call MAM and get a new part. In the mean time, quit
drilling dry ! Do as Ken said and get some GOOD cutting fluid that's
suitable for aluminum. Be very careful about which one to use, as some
produce real wierd fumes when used with aluminum. I use Alumicut (pint can
w/ red - white label). About $6 a pint, I think. (I sell the stuff, but
don't know the price...) This stuff will allow cutting 10-32 threads in
thick 6061, which is normally a real pain. Drills beautifully, too.

If you could get an annular cutting bit, you could salvage your part, but I
doubt if they're made that small.

Need any more cheerful advice?

Bill

----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott & Leere' Aldrich" <flynski@mwutah.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, December 05, 2003 7:52 AM
Subject: RE: Removing broken bit

Thanks Ken, I thought of drilling from the back side last night. Drilled
until I thought I hit the other bit. Tried punching, no work. Okay maybe
drill a little farther...bonk. Now I have broken drill bits from both

sides

S#%t...

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
klehman@albedo.net
Sent: Friday, December 05, 2003 6:03 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Removing broken bit


I've got a wee can of Green aluminum cutting fluid/lubricant that I find
is essential for drilling/tapping thick aluminum. You'll want some
before proceeding.

Can drill from the back side? It will destroy the bit when they touch
but if you are lucky you will be able to then drive a 1/8" punch through
from the back. Gently warming it may help but I don't like to let it get
hot enough to boil water for fear of loosing the heat treating.

Good luck
Ken

Scott & Leere' Aldrich wrote:

Broke a pilot bit off drilling through a 1.75 inch thick block of 6061
(Moose rear float fitting). Any ideas on how to remove. It is a #30

and

the hole needs to go up to 5/16.

Thanks,
Scott

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*




*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Joel Jacobs]

_if_ the end of the bit is flush with the surface and not down in the hole
you might be able to use the same trick I use for broken studs. Lay a nut
over the broken end and use an electric glue gun (mig welder) to attach the
nut. Now you got something to grab onto. Use some penetrating oil and try
to work it out..
Joel

----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott & Leere' Aldrich" <flynski@mwutah.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2003 11:12 PM
Subject: Removing broken bit

Broke a pilot bit off drilling through a 1.75 inch thick block of 6061
(Moose rear float fitting). Any ideas on how to remove. It is a #30 and
the hole needs to go up to 5/16.

Thanks,
Scott

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*



*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[bransom]

-> Bite the bullet, call MAM and get a new part. In the mean time, quit
-> drilling dry ! Do as Ken said and get some GOOD cutting fluid that's
-> suitable for aluminum. Be very careful about which one to use, as some
-> produce real wierd fumes when used with aluminum. I use Alumicut (pint can
-> w/ red - white label). About $6 a pint, I think. (I sell the stuff, but
-> don't know the price...)

Years ago I worked in a machine shop, mostly on 2024 AL, some other alloys
too. We used kerosene for lubricant on lathe or milling cuts, and a stick of
wax on drilling holes. I don't remember what the wax was, but it was made for
that purpose. Ever since, for AL at home, I've just used kerosene cuz it is
cheap and easy. sorta like me :)

btw, thanks all on the workbench posts.
-Ben


*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Warren Montgomery]

Sounds like nothing to lose now. :-(
Get out a punch and whack as you say the S#%t... outta it!!!
Hopefully you can drive it out the other side now.

or use a 40is bit to drill numerous holes around until you can get a
grab on with needle nose pliers.
Using oil as noted by others so you don't end up with a half dozen
broken bits ;-)
Warren

Scott & Leere' Aldrich wrote:

Thanks Ken, I thought of drilling from the back side last night. Drilled
until I thought I hit the other bit. Tried punching, no work. Okay maybe
drill a little farther...bonk. Now I have broken drill bits from both sides
S#%t...

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
klehman@albedo.net
Sent: Friday, December 05, 2003 6:03 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Removing broken bit


I've got a wee can of Green aluminum cutting fluid/lubricant that I find
is essential for drilling/tapping thick aluminum. You'll want some
before proceeding.

Can drill from the back side? It will destroy the bit when they touch
but if you are lucky you will be able to then drive a 1/8" punch through
from the back. Gently warming it may help but I don't like to let it get
hot enough to boil water for fear of loosing the heat treating.

Good luck
Ken

Scott & Leere' Aldrich wrote:

Broke a pilot bit off drilling through a 1.75 inch thick block of 6061
(Moose rear float fitting). Any ideas on how to remove. It is a #30 and
the hole needs to go up to 5/16.

Thanks,
Scott

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*







*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*






*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Gordon Mohr]

There is a way to save your part. Find a piece of hard steel 1/4" OD
tubing with at least a #30 hole in the middle. With a small triangular
file, cut teeth around one end like on a hole saw. You may have to
sharpen the teeth often unless you harden it, and you will have to flush
the hole often to remove filings, but it should cut around the outside
of the broken bit and leave a 1/4" hole that you can then drill out to
5/16".
Regards, Gordon


Scott & Leere' Aldrich wrote:

Broke a pilot bit off drilling through a 1.75 inch thick block of 6061
(Moose rear float fitting). Any ideas on how to remove. It is a #30 and
the hole needs to go up to 5/16.

Thanks,
Scott

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------