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From: "Alister Yeoman" <
yeoman@voyager.co.nz>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: spring gear strengthening
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 21:12:59 +1200
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Hi again,
This is fun isn't it!! Trying to get ideas across, it is all rather abstract
I think!!!
No! that is not what I meant. The solid block is square at 5 thou over 1
3/4" ( thats what mine was,it would pay to mic. yours up to double check( I
just checked with another builder over here and his was dead on 1 3/4")). It
is about 2 1/4 " long and the end that is placed to the inside has the sharp
corners taken off to stop any stress raisers. ( this can be done with a
file, I called it a taper and that was probably a little confusing, but you
would want to start 'tapering' it from say, about 1/2" back from the end,
but not back to the point of where the AN 4 bolt passes thru it.)
Next little trick! I understand your concerns regarding drilling the AN3
holes right thru' the whole works and maintaining accuracy. The key is to
start on the inside and work out. place an insert in the carrythrough in
the correct position and run a drill from the other side thru' the opposite
carrythrough, wing strut attach brackets and door post and then 'witness
mark' the insert on the inside for the three required holes. Remove the
insert and drill to 3/16' in a drill press.
Replace the insert, fit the second insert but this time' witness mark' the
new insert by backdrilling thru' the holes you have just drilled in the
drill press and thru' the doorpost etc.. When they are all done open them up
to 1/4". This method minimises any errors that may be there.
On the outside of the carrythrough where you drilled the 3/4" holes to fit
the socket thru', the boltheads and nuts can fit inside these to pull
directly on the insert. No problem there.( they may need to be relieved a
little.)
Now, I believe I may have told you a lie, the two inner bolts I moved up to
1/4", but the outside bolt I left at 3/16".
The same method of 'witness marking' is used to locate the outside 5/16"
straddle bracket holes. Place the inserts in the carrythroughs and use the
AN4 ( AN3) bolts to correctly locate them. 'Witness mark' the straddle bolt
holes from the BOTTOM not the top ( remember these were free hand drilled,
if they were marked at the top and drilled down they probably would not
match fit the brackets) remove inserts and drill in a drill press.
Getting the picture now?
I may have also told you another lie! In a previous e-mail I think I said
two channels need to be milled on the sides of the inserts to clear rivets,
this may be incorrect. I have just been talking to another builder who has
just gone thru' this and he said this is not needed. My memory is starting
to fail me !!!!
What you will find is that where the 3/16" rivets come thru' from the bottom
63" plate, you can 'witness mark' these on the insert, remove the insert and
drill a hole big enough to allow the rivets to pull. The same applies to
where the panel below the door sill is riveted.
Another trick is to extend the top 63 thou plate right out to pick up the
outside straddle attach bolt at the top, this just adds a little more beef.
The inside 3/8" bolt and spacer remain as they are. ( I did move mine to
7/16" and the outers to 3/8")
In a couple of days I will be in a position to post some photos of this. if
you are interested send me an e-mail address I could post them to without
cluttering this forum.
I think thats it.
Cheers
Alister
-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Morehouse <
danmorehouse@home.com>
To:
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com <
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 01, 1999 6:54 PM
Subject: re: spring gear strengthening
Just remembered, Alister:
In your block fix, what did you do with the AN5s and crush tubes that go
vertically through the carrythroughs? And the spacer block with the AN6?
Dan
R280
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