EP Primer and Moose roof mounted flaps

[Wes & Bobbi Jo Erb]

Hello all---

Just starting work on Moose #208 and I've already got questions..... I
picked up some EP420/430 as suggested, was a little sticker shocked at $42 a
quart plus $30 can of catalyst. Since I guess I'll only be using a little
bit at a time to brush on parts and dip rivets, any tips on how to preserve
the primer and catalyst after the initial opening? It would be cheaper to
buy by the gallon, but don't know if I would use that much before it
expired.

Also, I saw the roof mounted flap assembly posted on the builders
archives, it looks great. Was that assembly from another Rebel kit or was
that something self manufactured? Has anyone flight tested that
configuration with aero loads on it? Does it prevent having the "hump" on
the fuselage? I'm sure I'm
gonna knock that thing off one day brushing snow....

Thanks for any tips and insight.....

Wes Erb
FB Moose#208
Chugiak, AK





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[mike.davis]

Hi Wes, I'm a little surprised at the price you paid for your EP420/430... I
buy it locally here in Fairbanks from Hi Tec Auto paint and supply, they also
carry poly-fiber products. I would expect you could find it in Anchorage
cheaper than we can get it here. I paid right around $60 for my last quart
pack... I don't buy the reducer though since I'm not spraying it on.

As for the roof flap system, that was designed and built by 2 Fairbanks
builders... Mike Kimball did the drawings that are on the site. He has his
installed and it works very nicely, but he isn't going to be flying before
next year anyway. The other builder, Rob Merdes, was killed in a car accident
last spring... and while his family intends to finish his Moose, they are not
currently working on it. So I guess we'll all have to wait until Mike gets
his flying. It does eliminate the hump on the roof, which is very nice. As
for the aero loads on it, another nice thing about the design is that the
flaps can be preloaded with springs to help them come down against the
aerodynamic loads. Of course only once Mike is flying will we know if this is
necessary.

If you happen to be in Fairbanks make sure and drop us a note and I'm sure
Mike Kimball will let you take a closer look.

Mike

On 9/28/2003 11:50 AM, MURPHY-REBEL@DCSOL.COM wrote to MIKE DAVIS:

Hello all---

Just starting work on Moose #208 and I've already got questions..... I
picked up some EP420/430 as suggested, was a little sticker shocked at $42 a
quart plus $30 can of catalyst. Since I guess I'll only be using a little
bit at a time to brush on parts and dip rivets, any tips on how to preserve
the primer and catalyst after the initial opening? It would be cheaper to
buy by the gallon, but don't know if I would use that much before it
expired.

Also, I saw the roof mounted flap assembly posted on the builders
archives, it looks great. Was that assembly from another Rebel kit or was
that something self manufactured? Has anyone flight tested that
configuration with aero loads on it? Does it prevent having the "hump" on
the fuselage? I'm sure I'm
gonna knock that thing off one day brushing snow....

Thanks for any tips and insight.....

Wes Erb
FB Moose#208
Chugiak, AK





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[Nielsenbe]

I also have just started building. I bought a bunch of 5 and 10cc syringes
from a farm supply place and use that to mix epoxy. I just use little dixie cups
filled rivit deep to dip them in. I did move my epoxy to glass jars with
screw lids for easier access and a better seal.

Brad
SR222



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[Bob Patterson]

Welcome to the FUN, Wes !!

We mixed small batches of primer in tinfoil tart tins -
they were wide for easy access, and you only mix enough to dip
about 1/8" of the rivet end into. (Any more, and you get so
much it oozes up thru the rivet & glues your rivet gun jaws
together ! :-( :-( ) ;-)

The cure speed is very temperature sensitive, so you
can put the tart tin in a freezer for a fair time if needed.

We worked in a shop that was only about 50 degrees in
winter, so had LOTS of time to work before hardening of the
primer .... not so long before hardening of the fingers from
freezing, though ! ;-) :-) :-)

.....bobp

-------------------------------orig.--------------------------------
At 04:41 AM 9/28/03 -0800, you wrote:

Hello all---

Just starting work on Moose #208 and I've already got questions..... I
picked up some EP420/430 as suggested, was a little sticker shocked at $42 a
quart plus $30 can of catalyst. Since I guess I'll only be using a little
bit at a time to brush on parts and dip rivets, any tips on how to preserve
the primer and catalyst after the initial opening? It would be cheaper to
buy by the gallon, but don't know if I would use that much before it
expired.

Also, I saw the roof mounted flap assembly posted on the builders
archives, it looks great. Was that assembly from another Rebel kit or was
that something self manufactured? Has anyone flight tested that
configuration with aero loads on it? Does it prevent having the "hump" on
the fuselage? I'm sure I'm
gonna knock that thing off one day brushing snow....

Thanks for any tips and insight.....

Wes Erb
FB Moose#208
Chugiak, AK





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[klehman]

Wes

The opened EP430 stores fine on my basement floor for at least 4 years.
If it is not stirred occasionally I have seen it settle and harden in 4
years but every time you use it it is stirred.

After mixing it I keep any extra in a small baby food jar in the freezer
for several weeks before it becomes unusable.

Ken

Wes & Bobbi Jo Erb wrote:

Hello all---

Just starting work on Moose #208 and I've already got questions..... I
picked up some EP420/430 as suggested, was a little sticker shocked at $42 a
quart plus $30 can of catalyst. Since I guess I'll only be using a little
bit at a time to brush on parts and dip rivets, any tips on how to preserve
the primer and catalyst after the initial opening?

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[dmp]

On 29 Sep 2003 at 8:40, klehman@albedo.net wrote:

After mixing it I keep any extra in a small baby food jar in the freezer
for several weeks before it becomes unusable.

The best I usually do is a week in the freezer after mixing.

The best container for small batches is a 35mm film can. The lid
seals tight and even after the batch starts to harden, it won't stick to
the plastic, so it's easy to clean.

---
David Parrish



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[Drew Dalgleish]

At 08:47 AM 9/29/2003 -0400, you wrote:

On 29 Sep 2003 at 8:40, klehman@albedo.net wrote:

After mixing it I keep any extra in a small baby food jar in the freezer
for several weeks before it becomes unusable.

The best I usually do is a week in the freezer after mixing.

The best container for small batches is a 35mm film can. The lid
seals tight and even after the batch starts to harden, it won't stick to
the plastic, so it's easy to clean.

---
David Parrish

Time to plug my favorite store again. :) Lee Valley tools sells disposable
glue mixing cups that are marked on the side for acurate mixing. I found
one sleeve was more than enough. I made my own brushes by cutting a small
strip off a sponge and grabbing it with a clothes pin.

http://www.leevalley.com/garden/page.as ... 09&categor
y=2,2070,33135
Drew Dalgleish




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