Pro Seal

[Mike Davis]

Received: from home.com ([24.112.112.153]) by mail.rdc1.bc.wave.home.com
(InterMail v4.00.03 201-229-104) with ESMTP
id <19990218013108.LRYV19434.mail.rdc1.bc.wave.home.com@home.com>
for <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>; Wed, 17 Feb 1999 17:31:08 -0800
Message-ID: <36CB6D4A.CD92A31C@home.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 17:30:50 -0800
From: David Qualley <dqualley@home.com>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en]C-AtHome0402 (Win98; I)
X-Accept-Language: en
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: Murphy Mailing List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Pro Seal
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I'm ready to rivet my bottom wing/tank skin. My work area is outdoors
and unheated. The temperatures are ranging from 3c-10c. I can't seem
to find any data on the working temperatures for the Pro-seal.

Will I be alright using it at these temps, or do I need to try and heat
the carport?

Dave
Vancouver, BC




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Mike Davis]

Received: from [137.186.227.199] (helo=ms02-199.tor.istar.ca)
by mail2.toronto.istar.net with smtp (Exim 1.92 #2)
for murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
id 10DKcl-0005iV-00; Wed, 17 Feb 1999 22:59:39 -0500
X-Sender: crs1188@inforamp.net
X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.2
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com> (Murphy Rebel)
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
Subject: Re: Pro Seal
Message-Id: <E10DKcl-0005iV-00@mail2.toronto.istar.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 22:59:39 -0500


It WILL cure at those temps, BUT - it will take a LOOOOOONGGGGGGG
time !! (Like - maybe hard by half-past JUNE !)
Probably better to arrange for some heat ....

It will be so thick that you'll likely want to pull everything
together very slowly, to give it time to squeeze out. There are
several schools of thought on this ;-) .....

One is to set the air pressure on your rivet gun way down to
maybe 20 or 30 lb, and only partly pull all the rivets, then go around
again at a higher pressure, until you get high enough to snap them -
this has worked for some folks (and not for others !!)

You might want to review the list archives - there has been a
LOT of comment on proper cleaning/preparation, etc...

....bobp
----------------------------orig.------------------------------------
At 05:30 PM 2/17/99 -0800, you wrote:

I'm ready to rivet my bottom wing/tank skin. My work area is outdoors
and unheated. The temperatures are ranging from 3c-10c. I can't seem
to find any data on the working temperatures for the Pro-seal.

Will I be alright using it at these temps, or do I need to try and heat
the carport?

Dave
Vancouver, BC

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Mike Davis]

Received: from the-benson-s (209-122-196-50.s50.tnt5.lnh.md.dialup.rcn.com
[209.122.196.50])
by smtp2.erols.com (8.8.8/8.8.5) with SMTP id HAA03841
for <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>; Thu, 18 Feb 1999 07:58:56 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <003601be5b3d$f54f4c20$32c47ad1@the-benson-s>
From: "Lonnie Benson" <lonben@erols.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Pro Seal
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 07:55:25 -0500
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Priority: 3
X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3155.0
X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3155.0

Dave:

The PRC Pro-Seal instruction sheet I have says that you have about 4 hours
to apply the B-4 mixture at 75 F and 50% relative humidity. The mixture
should be tack free in about 36 hours. "For every 10F to 15F rise in
temperature, application life is reduced by half, and for every 10F to 15F
drop it is approximately doubled. The temperature/time relationship is
approximately the same for curing as it is for application life. Cure of
sealant below 55F may be greatly retarded. Cure my be hastened by applying
heat up to `130F."

I hope that this helps.

Lonnie Benson - R171
-----Original Message-----
From: David Qualley <dqualley@home.com>
To: Murphy Mailing List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Wednesday, February 17, 1999 8:31 PM
Subject: Pro Seal

I'm ready to rivet my bottom wing/tank skin. My work area is outdoors
and unheated. The temperatures are ranging from 3c-10c. I can't seem
to find any data on the working temperatures for the Pro-seal.

Will I be alright using it at these temps, or do I need to try and heat
the carport?

Dave
Vancouver, BC

[Mike Davis]

Received: from tim-toshiba - 206.40.8.15 by email.msn.com with Microsoft
SMTPSVC;
Mon, 22 Feb 1999 10:38:53 -0800
Reply-To: <tlcarter@email.msn.com>
From: "Tim Carter" <tlcarter@email.msn.com>
To: "'Murphy Rebel'" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: RE: Pro Seal
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 10:23:02 -0800
Message-ID: <000001be5e93$37d8a160$14640a0a@tim-toshiba>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Priority: 3 (Normal)
X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook 8.5, Build 4.71.2173.0
Importance: Normal
X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3155.0
In-Reply-To: <36CE2CEA.CD8@gte.net>
Return-Path: tlcarter@email.msn.com

Mickey:

I would think that excess front spar towards the root is not a bad
thing....here is why...

That is where the front attach bracket assembly is put on the wing, where
the W158 (I think) bracket uses two 1/4" bolts and a packer to attach the
front spar, front spar front doubler, front spar rear doubler and front
attach brackets all together to the front root rib.

On my RH wing the front spar pilot holes had evidently slipped somewhat in
MAM's turret punch when they made it, and the entire hole set was shifted
towards the root. With the pilot holes shifted that direction this left me
only the very minimum edge distance (3/16" per Darryl Murphy) from the edge
of the holes for the two vertical 1/4" bolts that pass thru that whole
assembly to the edge of the spar.

Net-net is...if I am understanding your message correctly, I think more is
better if there is more towards the root...but, based on needing a full 12'
of material for the wing, you should not have more than about 1/8" - 3/16"
excess, and I'd be surprised if it were that much.

I would not trim it.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: mickey chadwell [mailto:flyboy47@gte.net]
Sent: Friday, February 19, 1999 7:33 PM
To: (Murphy Rebel)
Subject: Re: Pro Seal


Tim Carter wrote:

Dave:

It looks like we are about at the same spot in our build.

Good luck with sealing the second tank!

I too am looking forward to the fuselage...a big break from the 'wings'
portion of my life!

Tim
#438

-----Original Message-----
From: David Qualley [mailto:dqualley@home.com]
Sent: Friday, February 19, 1999 6:29 PM
To: (Murphy Rebel)
Subject: Re: Pro Seal

I spent today rivetting the bottom wing skin on. That's exactly how I
decided to do it.. I put a couple 60w bulbs underneath for a couple hours
to bring the tank section up to temp. And I'll leave them in there until
tomorrow sometime.. You are right, the lamps are more than enough to

bring

all the metal up to a nice temperature.

Finally! I'm almost ready to get this second wing off the bench and get
started on the Fuselage!
I've already assembled the fuselage floor and some of the uprights on a
smaller table in the workshop, but I can't do any more on it in the
workshop, there just isn't enough room.

Dave

I went through the same thing with minimal temperatures, speeded the
curing by putting a low wattage incandescent light bulb inside the fuel
tank, watched it for a while and it never got more than warm to the
touch so I left it overnight.

Tim

I'm peddeling as fast as I can to catch up with you guys. I am
currently on the right main wing trying to get the front spar to fit. It
seems when I line up the tip end of the spar with the nose rib flange,
there is some excess spar on the root end. The root end nose rib does
not line up with the edge of the spar. Does this have to be trimed off.

Mickey
#534

[Mike Davis]

Received: from sunshine (2Cust25.tnt7.hou3.da.uu.net [153.36.227.25])
by smtp2.gte.net with SMTP id SAA22973
for <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>; Mon, 22 Feb 1999 18:06:02 -0600 (CST)
Message-ID: <36D1F07C.6080@gte.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 18:04:12 -0600
From: mickey chadwell <flyboy47@gte.net>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: " (Murphy Rebel)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Pro Seal
References: <000001be5e93$37d8a160$14640a0a@tim-toshiba>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Tim Carter wrote:

Mickey:

I would think that excess front spar towards the root is not a bad
thing....here is why...

That is where the front attach bracket assembly is put on the wing, where
the W158 (I think) bracket uses two 1/4" bolts and a packer to attach the
front spar, front spar front doubler, front spar rear doubler and front
attach brackets all together to the front root rib.

On my RH wing the front spar pilot holes had evidently slipped somewhat in
MAM's turret punch when they made it, and the entire hole set was shifted
towards the root. With the pilot holes shifted that direction this left

me

only the very minimum edge distance (3/16" per Darryl Murphy) from the

edge

of the holes for the two vertical 1/4" bolts that pass thru that whole
assembly to the edge of the spar.

Net-net is...if I am understanding your message correctly, I think more is
better if there is more towards the root...but, based on needing a full

12'

of material for the wing, you should not have more than about 1/8" - 3/16"
excess, and I'd be surprised if it were that much.

I would not trim it.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: mickey chadwell [mailto:flyboy47@gte.net]
Sent: Friday, February 19, 1999 7:33 PM
To: (Murphy Rebel)
Subject: Re: Pro Seal

Tim Carter wrote:

Dave:

It looks like we are about at the same spot in our build.

Good luck with sealing the second tank!

I too am looking forward to the fuselage...a big break from the 'wings'
portion of my life!

Tim
#438

-----Original Message-----
From: David Qualley [mailto:dqualley@home.com]
Sent: Friday, February 19, 1999 6:29 PM
To: (Murphy Rebel)
Subject: Re: Pro Seal

I spent today rivetting the bottom wing skin on. That's exactly how I
decided to do it.. I put a couple 60w bulbs underneath for a couple

hours

to bring the tank section up to temp. And I'll leave them in there

until

tomorrow sometime.. You are right, the lamps are more than enough to

bring

all the metal up to a nice temperature.

Finally! I'm almost ready to get this second wing off the bench and get
started on the Fuselage!
I've already assembled the fuselage floor and some of the uprights on a
smaller table in the workshop, but I can't do any more on it in the
workshop, there just isn't enough room.

Dave

I went through the same thing with minimal temperatures, speeded the
curing by putting a low wattage incandescent light bulb inside the

fuel

tank, watched it for a while and it never got more than warm to the
touch so I left it overnight.

Tim

I'm peddeling as fast as I can to catch up with you guys. I am
currently on the right main wing trying to get the front spar to fit. It
seems when I line up the tip end of the spar with the nose rib flange,
there is some excess spar on the root end. The root end nose rib does
not line up with the edge of the spar. Does this have to be trimed off.

Mickey
#534

Tim,

Thanks for the relpy. I agree with your thought on the extra spar not
being trimed off. It is however a little more than 1/8", more like 1/4"
to 3/8". The only prob I have with leaveing it on is how do I get the
measurement for the w119 front attach bracket? the book calles for the
spar to be placed next to a block of wood with the center line drawn
from the spar onto the block. The critical measurement is the distance
'A' from the edge of the rear spar to the center of the rear spar attach
brackett hole. If I do this it shifts the spar to the left and the
excess is now at the tip end with the pre drilled holes no longer
lineing up with the outboard nose rib. I quess i could drill a new set
of holes at the tip end were they should go. What do you think?

Thanks again.

#534 Mickey

[Mike Davis]

Received: from sunshine (2Cust25.tnt7.hou3.da.uu.net [153.36.227.25])
by smtp2.gte.net with SMTP id SAA09927
for <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>; Mon, 22 Feb 1999 18:29:27 -0600 (CST)
Message-ID: <36D1F5FA.779@gte.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 18:27:38 -0600
From: mickey chadwell <flyboy47@gte.net>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: " (Murphy Rebel)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Pro Seal
References: <001501be5ec2$b9060b40$14640a0a@tim-toshiba>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Tim Carter wrote:

Mickey:

I see your problem...

As I recall, I got MAM to send me these procedures from the new

Rebel/Rebel

Elite manual...and they were much clearer on an alternative way to do
this...

I recommend at this point to give them a call and talk it over with them.

This is a critical area so I'd seek their advice.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: mickey chadwell [mailto:flyboy47@gte.net]
Sent: Monday, February 22, 1999 4:04 PM
To: (Murphy Rebel)
Subject: Re: Pro Seal

Tim Carter wrote:

Mickey:

I would think that excess front spar towards the root is not a bad
thing....here is why...

That is where the front attach bracket assembly is put on the wing,

where

the W158 (I think) bracket uses two 1/4" bolts and a packer to attach

the

front spar, front spar front doubler, front spar rear doubler and front
attach brackets all together to the front root rib.

On my RH wing the front spar pilot holes had evidently slipped somewhat

in

MAM's turret punch when they made it, and the entire hole set was

shifted

towards the root. With the pilot holes shifted that direction this left

me

only the very minimum edge distance (3/16" per Darryl Murphy) from the

edge

of the holes for the two vertical 1/4" bolts that pass thru that whole
assembly to the edge of the spar.

Net-net is...if I am understanding your message correctly, I think more

is

better if there is more towards the root...but, based on needing a full

12'

of material for the wing, you should not have more than about 1/8" -

3/16"

excess, and I'd be surprised if it were that much.

I would not trim it.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: mickey chadwell [mailto:flyboy47@gte.net]
Sent: Friday, February 19, 1999 7:33 PM
To: (Murphy Rebel)
Subject: Re: Pro Seal

Tim Carter wrote:

Dave:

It looks like we are about at the same spot in our build.

Good luck with sealing the second tank!

I too am looking forward to the fuselage...a big break from the

'wings'

portion of my life!

Tim
#438

-----Original Message-----
From: David Qualley [mailto:dqualley@home.com]
Sent: Friday, February 19, 1999 6:29 PM
To: (Murphy Rebel)
Subject: Re: Pro Seal

I spent today rivetting the bottom wing skin on. That's exactly how I
decided to do it.. I put a couple 60w bulbs underneath for a couple

hours

to bring the tank section up to temp. And I'll leave them in there

until

tomorrow sometime.. You are right, the lamps are more than enough to

bring

all the metal up to a nice temperature.

Finally! I'm almost ready to get this second wing off the bench and

get

started on the Fuselage!
I've already assembled the fuselage floor and some of the uprights on

a

smaller table in the workshop, but I can't do any more on it in the
workshop, there just isn't enough room.

Dave

fuel

Tim

I'm peddeling as fast as I can to catch up with you guys. I am
currently on the right main wing trying to get the front spar to fit. It
seems when I line up the tip end of the spar with the nose rib flange,
there is some excess spar on the root end. The root end nose rib does
not line up with the edge of the spar. Does this have to be trimed off.

Mickey
#534

Tim,

Thanks for the relpy. I agree with your thought on the extra spar not
being trimed off. It is however a little more than 1/8", more like 1/4"
to 3/8". The only prob I have with leaveing it on is how do I get the
measurement for the w119 front attach bracket? the book calles for the
spar to be placed next to a block of wood with the center line drawn
from the spar onto the block. The critical measurement is the distance
'A' from the edge of the rear spar to the center of the rear spar attach
brackett hole. If I do this it shifts the spar to the left and the
excess is now at the tip end with the pre drilled holes no longer
lineing up with the outboard nose rib. I quess i could drill a new set
of holes at the tip end were they should go. What do you think?

Thanks again.

#534 Mickey

Thanks Tim, I will do that.

Mickey



-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Mike Davis]

Received: from tim - 209.119.137.69 by email.msn.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC;
Mon, 19 Jul 1999 11:49:09 -0700
Reply-To: <tlcarter@msn.com>
From: "Tim Carter" <tlcarter@email.msn.com>
To: "'Murphy Rebel Builders List'" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: RE: pro seal
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1999 12:03:25 -0700
Message-ID: <000601bed219$6362fe80$14640a0a@tim>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Priority: 3 (Normal)
X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook 8.5, Build 4.71.2173.0
Importance: Normal
X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300
In-Reply-To: <E7D1F2B88F8ED1119174080009DC2612224CDE@tvfrmail>
Return-Path: tlcarter@email.msn.com

Yes. It will have a little bit of tack when it has first set up, and it
will be dark grey, almost black. Over time as it cures more, it will become
less tacky, and become slightly more grey.

I highly recommend using a scale to mix the proper amounts of base and
hardner.

10 base to 1 hardner.

Tim



-----Original Message-----
From: Snader, Douglas E. [mailto:snaderde@tvfr.com]
Sent: Monday, July 19, 1999 11:29 AM
To: 'murphy-rebel@dcsol.com'
Subject: pro seal


Is pro seal supposed to dry to a rubbery,non-tacky finish?
*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

[Jones, Michael]

hi guys

so i notice on the label for pro seal to mix it says 10 catalyst and 100
base, is this not the same as 1 to 10 ?? I notice wayne listed it this way
on last night postings ??
Whats the deal ??

mike #007


*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Mike it's mixed 10 parts base to 1 part catalyst by WEIGHT and I believe 8.7
base to 1 catalyst by volume (but I always weigh it on a digital scale so
can't remember for sure if that is the correct volume ratio). I only listed
100 to 10 last night as that is how much I needed to use. That's still 10 to
1 ratio x 10!

Mix how ever much you want, but always in the correct ratio.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jones, Michael" <MJones@hatch.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2003 7:18 AM
Subject: pro seal

hi guys

so i notice on the label for pro seal to mix it says 10 catalyst and 100
base, is this not the same as 1 to 10 ?? I notice wayne listed it this way
on last night postings ??
Whats the deal ??

mike #007

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*




*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Jones, Michael]

thanks wayne, i also am using 3 beam scale so should be accurate

mike

-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne G. O'Shea [mailto:oifa@irishfield.on.ca]
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2003 8:48 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: pro seal


Mike it's mixed 10 parts base to 1 part catalyst by WEIGHT and I believe 8.7
base to 1 catalyst by volume (but I always weigh it on a digital scale so
can't remember for sure if that is the correct volume ratio). I only listed
100 to 10 last night as that is how much I needed to use. That's still 10 to
1 ratio x 10!

Mix how ever much you want, but always in the correct ratio.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jones, Michael" <MJones@hatch.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2003 7:18 AM
Subject: pro seal

hi guys

so i notice on the label for pro seal to mix it says 10 catalyst and 100
base, is this not the same as 1 to 10 ?? I notice wayne listed it this way
on last night postings ??
Whats the deal ??

mike #007

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*




*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*




*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

If you are ever off on anything, make sure it's a little extra cataylst.
That way it will still harden and maybe even slightly quicker.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jones, Michael" <MJones@hatch.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2003 8:52 AM
Subject: RE: pro seal

thanks wayne, i also am using 3 beam scale so should be accurate

mike

-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne G. O'Shea [mailto:oifa@irishfield.on.ca]
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2003 8:48 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: pro seal


Mike it's mixed 10 parts base to 1 part catalyst by WEIGHT and I believe

8.7

base to 1 catalyst by volume (but I always weigh it on a digital scale so
can't remember for sure if that is the correct volume ratio). I only

listed

100 to 10 last night as that is how much I needed to use. That's still 10

to

1 ratio x 10!

Mix how ever much you want, but always in the correct ratio.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jones, Michael" <MJones@hatch.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2003 7:18 AM
Subject: pro seal

hi guys

so i notice on the label for pro seal to mix it says 10 catalyst and 100
base, is this not the same as 1 to 10 ?? I notice wayne listed it this

way

on last night postings ??
Whats the deal ??

mike #007

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*




*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Jones, Michael]

always done that, even with fiberglass and bondo on my old cars

-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne G. O'Shea [mailto:oifa@irishfield.on.ca]
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2003 9:14 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: pro seal


If you are ever off on anything, make sure it's a little extra cataylst.
That way it will still harden and maybe even slightly quicker.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jones, Michael" <MJones@hatch.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2003 8:52 AM
Subject: RE: pro seal

thanks wayne, i also am using 3 beam scale so should be accurate

mike

-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne G. O'Shea [mailto:oifa@irishfield.on.ca]
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2003 8:48 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: pro seal


Mike it's mixed 10 parts base to 1 part catalyst by WEIGHT and I believe

8.7

base to 1 catalyst by volume (but I always weigh it on a digital scale so
can't remember for sure if that is the correct volume ratio). I only

listed

100 to 10 last night as that is how much I needed to use. That's still 10

to

1 ratio x 10!

Mix how ever much you want, but always in the correct ratio.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jones, Michael" <MJones@hatch.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2003 7:18 AM
Subject: pro seal

hi guys

so i notice on the label for pro seal to mix it says 10 catalyst and 100
base, is this not the same as 1 to 10 ?? I notice wayne listed it this

way

on last night postings ??
Whats the deal ??

mike #007

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*




*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*




*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[LisaFly99]

In a message dated 6/12/03 7:53:58 AM Central Daylight Time, MJones@hatch.ca
writes:

thanks wayne, i also am using 3 beam scale so should be accurate

MIKE
On the triple beam I used tuna fish cans for mixing in. Wash them up then
wipe them down with MEK or paint thinner and they're clean as a wistle. Wiegh
in at aprox 26 grams tar. And if you git a plastic cat food can cover you can
store the unused Pro Seal in the fridge over night.
Phil&Lisa Smith
#460R
N414D



*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Ralph Baker]

Steve,
There are several cure times available. Also, if I remember correctly,
the cure time is base at 70 degrees F and halves for each 10 degrees
above that. There is a brush grade and a "peanut butter" grade as well.
Depends on what you are using it for. Some say to thin with MEK but I
don't like to alter the factory chemistry. I will try to remember to
get the info tomorrow from the cans at my hangar. I can't help with SR
quantities but do get latex gloves and at least a gross of small "acid
brushes" about 1/2" across.
Ralph Baker
Elite 624E


*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Terry Dazey]

Don't forget the "double latex glove" trick! When you are preparing for Pro
Sealing, put on 2 pair of gloves. When the outside gloves get too messy,
pull them off, toss them in the trash and put on a new pair of clean gloves
over the first pair. Works great.

There is a brush grade and a "peanut butter" grade as well.

Depends on what you are using it for. Some say to thin with MEK but I
don't like to alter the factory chemistry. I will try to remember to
get the info tomorrow from the cans at my hangar. I can't help with SR
quantities but do get latex gloves and at least a gross of small "acid
brushes" about 1/2" across.

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------