conventional l.gear

Mike Davis · Post by **Mike Davis** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:25 pm

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From: "Geert Frank" <storchpilot@mediaone.net>
To: "murphy archives" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: conventional l.gear
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 1999 13:29:49 -0400
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To all Rebels with conventional landing gear,
Nice and quiet with everybody at Oshkosh with "lovely temps and low =
humidity", at least that is what the daily EAA propaganda sheet says.
This should have been an A.D. from Murphy as non-compliance can cause =
very serious damage or I fear has already done so in several instances. =
If you have the conventional landing gear on your Rebel I strongly =
suggest you do the following:
1.Ground your aircraft
2.Order from Murphy two sets LG 4&5. They are longer than the original =
ones. ( Now my Rebel is 083, so=20
maybe you later models have the long ones anyway. If however you have =
the single {non loop} safety cable =20
that goes through the l.g.leg, this still applies to you).
3.Order a new set of 12 bungee loops, from Wag-Aero or manufacturer, you =
need the 400 lbs ones (9044)
4.Purchase four 4 3/4" long 3/8" bolts,AN6-45A with AN 305-624 nuts
5.Make the hole size in the LG 4&5 combination, 3/8", so the bolt can go =
through, duh!
6.Purchase 8 1 5/8" diameter penny washers, 3/8" center hole
7.Manufacture or have someone make them, four sets of spacers, round, =
3/4 " aluminium or like mine,
13/16"stock, 3/8" hole, again so the 3/8" bolt will fit through.=20
Four spacers straight-cut-ends to go on either side of clover leaf =
fitting left side right side, make them the size=20
(length)so the bolt is fore-aft centered through the LG leg. Leave =
space of course for the four washers and=20
the nut and safety threads. Four spacers straight cut one end, curved =
to match LG leg curve on the other end.
8.Measure the distance between center bottom long bolt and center top =
long bolt, mine is 8" exactly, add=20
2 3/8" to this figure and create a loop out of control cable, 1/8", =
use a couple of nicro-press sleeves.
Again, make sure you have the holes in the LG4&5 combination to 3/8" =
and fishline the above loop through
LG4&5, one looped end sticking out through one end, the other looped =
end through the other end, make
sure the long bolts go through the looped ends. The loop has now =
become your safety cable.
9. I had good luck lifting my right wheel clear off the ground using a =
cable loop around the engine mount and=20
hooking it into the hook of one of those small engine cranes. Same of =
course with the other wheel. You cannot
use a wheel jack, since you need access to the gear legs. Wheel off =
the ground, not that much tension on=20
these loops, we used a serrated fish knife and sliced right through =
the existing loops. It took less than two=20
minutes and we had all six loops(three front, three in back) off the =
gear. No risk , no loops getting slung
across the hangar floor, no problem. I made up a tool for installing =
the new loops out of an old Mercedes
Benz jack. It works absoluty effortless and SAFE. You need it, send me =
$5 plus shipping and as soon as I get=20
my $ 50 out of it, I only need the UPS money from then on. Just be =
sure and return it to me. Instructions come=20
with the tool. Just to make sure we are on the same frequency, here =
is the sequence of items on the long
bolts: head of bolt, two penny washers, spacer, gear leg or cloverleaf =
fitting, spacer (possible some washers
same-dia.-as-spacer-material, if needed) two penny washers, nut, =
safety threads. You will find with this tool
that you can just slide the loops right onto the above spacers, for =
safety's sake do one loop front, one loop on=20
back, till as six are placed. Lower the wheel and lift the other =
wheel.

Now, why all this commotion? I snapped my right safety cable after it =
had become completely frayed and my
original LG4&5 on that side had completely come out of the lower l.g. =
tube assembly! By rights my gear should
have collapsed on that side, some serious damage! It didn't. For some =
lucky reason, the bungees had shoved the stub of the lower gear into the =
clover leaf assy. The lower leg had a lot of damage at the end though, =
so I had to replace it. When I took the other non-collapsed leg apart, I =
found the safety cable down to two little strands. No doubt that cable =
would have broken clear through on the next landing.=20
Why not a little AD bulletin from Murphy is a mystery. It stands to =
reason all cables will fray in time. It has nothing whatsoever to do =
with how you built your machine. That conventional gear is totally =
satisfactory, although it does not look as nice as the spring gear. Oh =
well. Have a nice day, Geert Frank

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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>To all Rebels with conventional landing=20
gear,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Nice and quiet with everybody at Oshkosh with =

"lovely temps and low humidity", at least that is what the =
daily EAA=20
propaganda sheet says.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>This should have been an A.D. from Murphy as=20
non-compliance can cause very serious damage or I fear has already done =
so in=20
several instances.  If you have the conventional landing gear on =
your Rebel=20
I strongly suggest you do the following:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>1.Ground your aircraft</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>2.Order from Murphy two sets LG 4&5. They =
are=20
longer than the original ones. ( Now my Rebel is 083, so </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT> <FONT color=3D#000000> maybe you =
later=20
models have the long ones anyway. If however you have the single {non=20
loop}  safety cable  </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>  that </FONT><FONT color=3D#000000>goes =
through the=20
l.g.leg, this still applies to you).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>3.Order a new set of 12 bungee loops, from =
Wag-Aero or=20
manufacturer, you need the 400 lbs ones (9044)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>4.Purchase four 4 3/4" long 3/8"=20
bolts,AN6-45A with AN 305-624 nuts</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>5.Make the hole size in the LG 4&5 =
combination,=20
3/8", so the bolt can go through, duh!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>6.Purchase 8   1 5/8" diameter =
penny=20
washers, 3/8" center hole</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>7.Manufacture or have someone make them, four sets of spacers, =
round, 3/4=20
" aluminium or like mine,</DIV>
<DIV>  13/16"stock, 3/8" hole, again so the 3/8" =
bolt will=20
fit through. </DIV>
<DIV>  F<FONT color=3D#000000>our spacers straight-cut-ends to go =
on either=20
side of clover leaf fitting left side right side, make them the size=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>  (length)</FONT><FONT =
color=3D#000000>so the bolt=20
is fore-aft centered through the LG leg. Leave space of course for the =
four=20
washers and </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>  the nut a</FONT><FONT =
color=3D#000000>nd=20
</FONT><FONT color=3D#000000>safety threads. Four spacers straight cut =
one end,=20
curved to match LG leg curve </FONT><FONT color=3D#000000>on the other=20
</FONT><FONT color=3D#000000>end.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>8.Measure the distance between center bottom =
long bolt=20
and center top long bolt, mine is 8" exactly, =
add </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>  2 3/8" to this figure and create =
a loop out=20
of control cable, 1/8", use a couple of nicro-press =
sleeves.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>  Again, make sure you have the holes in =

</FONT><FONT color=3D#000000>the LG4&5 combination to 3/8" and =
fishline=20
the above loop through</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>  LG4&5, one looped end sticking=20
out </FONT><FONT color=3D#000000>  through one end, the other =
looped end=20
through the other end, make</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>  sure the long bolts go through the =
</FONT><FONT=20
color=3D#000000>looped ends. The loop has now become your safety=20
cable.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>9. I had good luck lifting my right wheel =
clear off the=20
ground using a cable loop around the engine mount and </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>  hooking it into the hook of one of =
those small=20
engine cranes. Same of course with the other wheel. You =
cannot</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>  use a wheel jack, since you need =
access to the=20
gear legs. Wheel off the ground, not that much tension on </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>  these loops, we used a serrated fish =
knife and=20
sliced right through the existing loops. It took less than two =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>  minutes and we had all six loops(three =
front,=20
three in back) off the gear. No risk , no loops getting =
slung</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>  across the hangar floor, no =
problem. =20
I  made up a tool for installing the new loops out of an old=20
Mercedes</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>  Benz jack. It works absoluty =
effortless and=20
SAFE. You need it, send me $5 plus shipping and as soon as I get =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> <FONT color=3D#000000> my $ 50 out of it, I only need the UPS =
money=20
from then on. Just be sure and return it to me. Instructions come =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>  with the tool.   Just to =
make sure we=20
are on the same frequency, here is the sequence of items on the=20
long</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>  bolts: head of bolt, two penny =
washers, spacer,=20
gear leg or cloverleaf fitting, spacer (possible some =
washers</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>  same-dia.-as-spacer-material, if =
needed) two=20
penny washers, nut, safety threads.  You will find with this=20
tool</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>  that you can just slide the loops =
right onto the=20
above spacers, for safety's sake do one loop front, one loop on =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>  back, till as six are placed. Lower =
the wheel=20
and lift the other wheel.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Now, why all this commotion?  I snapped =
my right=20
safety cable after it had become completely frayed and my</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>original LG4&5 on that side had =
completely come out=20
of the lower l.g. tube assembly! By rights my gear should</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>have collapsed on that side, some serious damage! It didn't. For =
some lucky=20
reason, the bungees had shoved the stub of the lower gear into the =
clover leaf=20
assy.  The lower leg had a lot of damage at the end though, so I =
had to=20
replace it. When I took the other non-collapsed leg apart, I found the =
safety=20
cable down to two little strands. No doubt that cable would have broken =
clear=20
through on the next landing. </DIV>
<DIV>Why not a little AD bulletin from Murphy is a mystery. It stands to =
reason=20
all cables will fray in time. It has nothing whatsoever to do with how =
you built=20
your machine. That conventional gear is totally satisfactory, although =
it does=20
not look as nice as the spring gear. Oh well. Have a nice day,  =
Geert=20
Frank</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Mike Davis · Post by **Mike Davis** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:25 pm

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Want to publicly thank Geert Frank for his detailed post. I certainly
appreciate
this kind of info. FWIW he also mentioned to me that the

"old broken LG4&5's are 4 inches plus in length, that is the
length from the collar, the area that slides into the lower l.g. tube"
and that the replacement ones were at least 2 inches longer.

Guess I'll pull mine off again to have a look see. Murphy has put out some
bulletins on this area. The restraining cable length was shortened. There
was
also a 1650 lb upgrade but I don't know if that incorporated the longer
parts.
Then there was the change to make the restraining cable into a loop to
reduce
abrasion since my kit was shipped back in 92.

Ken
R119