cowling

bob.patterson · Post by **bob.patterson** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:48 pm

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To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
Subject: Re: Cowling

Hi Bill !

Sounds like you got that Thorp T-18 nosebowl - should look
pretty sexy !!! :-)

Sounds like you might have to use a shrinker-stretcher on
the front part of the bottom ....

.....bobp

---------------------------------orig.----------------------------------
At 09:40 PM 3/17/01 EST, you wrote:

Bob P.
Between your description and Wayne's pictures, I am well on my way. Becuase
the bottom flange on the nose-bowl I got from Spruce angles more back than
down, i'm having to work at fitting the bottom sections.

Bill N
<HTML>Bob P.
 Between your description and Wayne's pictures, I am well on my way.

 Becuase

the bottom flange on the nose-bowl I got from Spruce angles more back than
 down, i'm having to work at fitting the bottom sections.
 
 Bill N</HTML>

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Jeffrey Steenson · Post by **Jeffrey Steenson** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:56 pm

Dear Ralph,

I hope that you were able to solve the carb issue with the cowling. I was
amazed at your cool and objective approach to the problem -- a real
inspiration for all of us! I hope it all fits together perfectly.

Have you installed the windshield? I wanted to drill a 1" hole in the
glareshield for defrost, and I am wondering how far forward of the firewall
flange rivet line I should locate it. There are no Rebels around here to
check placement.

Thanks .. and good luck!

Jeffrey Steenson

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Walter Klatt · Post by **Walter Klatt** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:28 pm

There are several possibilities, and you should be
asking MAM. It's been a long time since I did mine, but
I had similar problems. In my case, I initially had the
wrong motor mount which put the engine 1 1/2 inches too
low. This was a conical mount. I also had the wrong
bottom. I ended up getting a new mount and a new
bottom. I know there are several versions with slight
differences with this cowl, but again MAM should be
able to help you.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Ralph Baker
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2003 3:59 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Cowling

We are in the convulsions of installing the
fiberglass High Peformance
cowl on our Elite. The wood spacer discs
are installed and the lower
cowl front face pulled up flush and tight to
the rear face of the rear
disc. When I attempt to fit the top cowl
for initial marking with the
front cowl face tight to the rear face of
the wood disc the outer end of
the air intake opening is 3/4" aft of the
lower air intake.

Is this a MAM "standard"? It looks like two
different makers supplied
cowl halves. Have you all had this
difficulty with the air intake lips
not approximating by this much? Fixing it
will be a major (for me) bit
of fiberglass work which shouldn't be needed
but at least it will feel
easier if we are all in the same MAM boat.
Dave Fife, where are you
when we need you?

Thanks,
Ralph Baker

PS - Bob P - You don't have to tell me how
much you don't like the HiPro
cowl, it's no secret. :):)

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Ralph Baker · Post by **Ralph Baker** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:28 pm

We are in the convulsions of installing the fiberglass High Peformance
cowl on our Elite. The wood spacer discs are installed and the lower
cowl front face pulled up flush and tight to the rear face of the rear
disc. When I attempt to fit the top cowl for initial marking with the
front cowl face tight to the rear face of the wood disc the outer end of
the air intake opening is 3/4" aft of the lower air intake.

Is this a MAM "standard"? It looks like two different makers supplied
cowl halves. Have you all had this difficulty with the air intake lips
not approximating by this much? Fixing it will be a major (for me) bit
of fiberglass work which shouldn't be needed but at least it will feel
easier if we are all in the same MAM boat. Dave Fife, where are you
when we need you?

Thanks,
Ralph Baker

PS - Bob P - You don't have to tell me how much you don't like the HiPro
cowl, it's no secret. :):)

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Legeorgen · Post by **Legeorgen** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:28 pm

Ralph

Slight miss alignment of the cowling is not unusual but 3/4" at the intakes
does sounds excessive. I did not have this problem with my speed cowl.

I did have the forward cowl opening not line up perpendicular to the spinner
and backing plate. I was able to hold them parallel with tape and clamps long
enough to secure with the proper fasteners and they held their position when
all was complete, and the clamps and tapes removed.

The fiberglass seems somewhat flexible and If you are able to hold the cowl
intakes into position, with your tapes and clamps, it will most likely stay in
position when you have installed your fasteners and are ready to remove your
temporary clamps and tapes.

Bruce 357R

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Schmucker, Del · Post by **Schmucker, Del** » Sun Feb 19, 2012 4:31 pm

I will be soon replaceing my Murphy Speed cowling over my Subaru with
a 4 door metal cowling. I am wondering what other have used for metal.
Did you use .020, .025 or 032 for the cowling skins? It would seem that
025 would be the logical choice but just checked and a 172 used 032.

Comments????

Thank you,

Del Schmucker

Information Systems Manager

Keewatin-Patricia District School Board

807-223-1254

807-221-8769 Cell

807-223-4703 Fax

del.schmucker@kpdsb.on.ca

www.kpdsb.on.ca

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kirk · Post by **kirk** » Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:58 pm

Does anyone have a Murphy cowling that hasn't been cut/altered yet? If so,
how much does it weigh?

Kirk Palmer
773E

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