Rebel fairings

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Ian, drill 3/32 or so and work a #6 screw in and out until you can get it to
go in without breaking or drill proper sized and tap for a 6-32 machine
screws. Sometimes you can get away with a single screw on one side and 2 on
the other to keep it from pivoting. Sometimes two both sides are requried to
get it to fit tight. The rubber edging along the wing and fuselage ends will
usually help it from moving around somewhat as well, but generally I find
that you might need one sheet metal screw on the wing end to hold it up
tight to the bottom of the wing. Hide the screw under the rubber edging and
then it helps work as a lock for the screw.

Rivet the trailing edge with solid rivets for a clean look, but if your
struts are painted this makes a mess if you ever have to slide them down to
get at the attach bolts so then it's better to use small machine screws and
nuts.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ian Donaldson" <allsure@iprimus.com.au>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2003 7:40 AM
Subject: Rebel fairings

G'day Bob.


I have made the effort to get busy and finally sort out those wing strut
fairings.

I made up aluminium ones from the sheet provided using MAMs pattern. They
look OK.

Now here are the questions!.
How do you secure them to the wing strut? Drill and tap the wing strut ?
How are the rear edges of the wing strut fairings joined together? The
instructions are none too clear!

Regards


Ian Donaldson

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[Bob Patterson]

Hi Ian !

The Murphy pattern isn't the greatest - they have the
sheet wrapping to the back and just rivet the two sheets together !
Some people bolt them, with small bolts. A better way is to
make the top skin longer, and put an extra bend at the back to
wrap around, then rivet or bolt, so the heads are inside, not
sticking out to catch you ! This method works well for the
gear leg and inner gear strut supports, too.

Robin made a nice fairing by rivetting a strip of piano
hinge to the trailing edges - just pull the hinge pin to remove !
You can drill & tap a SMALL (3/32 ?) hole in the center of the strut,
on the bottom outboard end, to anchor the fairing. It is good to run
rubber "C" channel around the ends of the fairing to avoid cutting into
the strut, wing, and fuse - glue it with contact cement.

The bad news is - the inboard ones will crack !! Especially
the right one - because of the prop wash vibrating them. That's why
I've switched to Lexan for these fairings - it takes a LOT more flexing
and doesn't crack easily.

Should look a lot tidier - and fly a bit faster. The gear
legs are the big drag, though. Good luck - and keep us posted !

.....bobp

------------------------------orig.--------------------------------
At 09:40 PM 6/22/03 +1000, you wrote:

G'day Bob.


I have made the effort to get busy and finally sort out those wing strut
fairings.

I made up aluminium ones from the sheet provided using MAMs pattern. They
look OK.

Now here are the questions!.
How do you secure them to the wing strut? Drill and tap the wing strut ?
How are the rear edges of the wing strut fairings joined together? The
instructions are none too clear!

Regards


Ian Donaldson







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[Ian Donaldson]

G'day Bob.


I have made the effort to get busy and finally sort out those wing strut
fairings.

I made up aluminium ones from the sheet provided using MAMs pattern. They
look OK.

Now here are the questions!.
How do you secure them to the wing strut? Drill and tap the wing strut ?
How are the rear edges of the wing strut fairings joined together? The
instructions are none too clear!

Regards


Ian Donaldson







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[Ian Donaldson]

G'day Bob & Wayne


Thanks for your suggestions and ideas.

It makes things just so much easier when you get some good advice.

Surely I will now be able to sort out the fairings now.


Thanks again


Ian Donaldson



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