1800 floats

Drew Dalgleish · Post by **Drew Dalgleish** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:11 pm

At 02:18 PM 6/17/2003 -0400, you wrote:

Hi Drew !

Not using the clear plastic tubing supplied ?? ;-)

I had an old 1 qt. EP-430 can for my reservoir, with
soldered-on pipes .... worked ok.

.....bobp

Hi Bob MAM supplied black rubber hose to go from the tank to the pump
and from the pump to the diverter valve. I have clear plastic for the rest.
I talked to brian and elain at MAM today. They're aware of the problem and
are trying to source some new tanks but they have no timetable for when
this might happen. I don't want to wait so I'm going to try to adapt what I
have. Do you think pro-seal will stick to plastic?
Drew Dalgleish

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Drew Dalgleish · Post by **Drew Dalgleish** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:12 pm

At 05:47 PM 6/17/2003 -0700, you wrote:

Yup, in my case I used the plastic hose to the top
return inlet. On the bottom, I had to use the 3/8 hose
that attaches to the pump. I just made sure that I used
a small hose clamp that fitted inside the barb of the
inlet and tightened it good. Never had any leaks.
Remember, the reservoir is not under pressure, so less
chance of leaking. I prefer the transparent reservoir,
so that you can always see how much fluid you have in
case you ever do have a leak somewhere in the system.

As for the plastic lines, I have been chided by some
locals here, too, for sticking with them. However,
again I like them because they are transparent,
allowing you to get rid of every last bubble in your
system, without ever having to bleed anything and make
a mess. And I probably saved a few pounds. The only
problem I did have with them initially was making leak
free joints. I solved that by going to an auto shop and
getting different compression rings (not sure what
exactly you call them) and no more problems. I think
they cost about 5 cents each.

Walter

Thanks Walter Do you get enough flow through the 1/4" hole? I could use
a couple short peices of 1/4" hose to an adaptor 1/4" to 3/8"
Drew Dalgleish

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Walter Klatt · Post by **Walter Klatt** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:12 pm

No problem with flow. You would have to be superman to
work that pump fast enough for that to be a problem.
Just be careful how you attach the bottom hose, so that
the clamp tightens down behind the barb, so it can't
slip off. I thought of the adapter route, too, but
didn't find it necessary.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Drew Dalgleish
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 9:39 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: 1800 floats

At 05:47 PM 6/17/2003 -0700, you wrote:
Yup, in my case I used the plastic hose to the top
return inlet. On the bottom, I had to use
the 3/8 hose
that attaches to the pump. I just made sure
that I used
a small hose clamp that fitted inside the
barb of the
inlet and tightened it good. Never had any leaks.
Remember, the reservoir is not under
pressure, so less
chance of leaking. I prefer the transparent
reservoir,
so that you can always see how much fluid
you have in
case you ever do have a leak somewhere in
the system.
As for the plastic lines, I have been chided by some
locals here, too, for sticking with them. However,
again I like them because they are transparent,
allowing you to get rid of every last bubble in your
system, without ever having to bleed
anything and make
a mess. And I probably saved a few pounds. The only
problem I did have with them initially was
making leak
free joints. I solved that by going to an
auto shop and
getting different compression rings (not sure what
exactly you call them) and no more problems. I think
they cost about 5 cents each.

Walter

Thanks Walter Do you get enough flow
through the 1/4" hole? I could use
a couple short peices of 1/4" hose to an
adaptor 1/4" to 3/8"
Drew Dalgleish

*--------------------------------------------
-----------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:

http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subs

cribe.wcx
Archives located at
http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*------------------------------------------------------
-------------------*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Drew Dalgleish · Post by **Drew Dalgleish** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:12 pm

At 06:30 AM 6/18/2003 -0700, you wrote:

No problem with flow. You would have to be superman to
work that pump fast enough for that to be a problem.
Just be careful how you attach the bottom hose, so that
the clamp tightens down behind the barb, so it can't
slip off. I thought of the adapter route, too, but
didn't find it necessary.

Walter

Great Thanks Walter
In that case I'm going to change the barb fitting on the pump to 1/4" and
use 1/4" hose from the tank to the pump. I'll just tighten down the return
line like you did but I can't imagine that I'd be able to seal the bottom
that way.
Is it just me or does murphy have a real problem with the inventory
required to build a set of floats? I've had to buy all kinds of extra nuts
and bolts while at the same time I have extras of lots of other stuff.
Drew Dalgleish

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Wayne G. O'Shea · Post by **Wayne G. O'Shea** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:12 pm

DON'T GET ME GOING ON THAT ONE DREW!
((((

It's not just for building, even the prebuilts hardware ship lists are wrong.

Paid in full for 2 sets of prebuilts April 10th and can't install either set yet thanks to Backorders and incorrect ship list quantities!

I guess I could if I really wanted to buy the stuff a second time, but no hydraulic lines/nico's/clevis pins/pump mount bracket/selector plate/hydraulic reservoirs/etc is just a >bit< ridiculous!

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2003 9:55 AM
Subject: RE: 1800 floats

Is it just me or does murphy have a real problem with the inventory
required to build a set of floats? I've had to buy all kinds of extra nuts
and bolts while at the same time I have extras of lots of other stuff.
Drew Dalgleish

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Wayne G. O'Shea · Post by **Wayne G. O'Shea** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:12 pm

Actually............I never did update on the plastic fuel tank delema did
I??!!

The proseal >DID< work and all leaks are gone. Customer hasn't screamed
since he left for the lake a month back and has used it each weekend since.

I cleaned all the surfaces with circuit board cleaner to removed any residue
and then using a popcycle stick went inside the tank and lined the lip of
the outlets with proseal, then coated the threads and the outside surface of
the tank at the outlet area. I then coated the fitting and the end of the
fitting, so when it went in it blended with the material I "lipped' the in
tank area with. Then filleted around the outside after installing the
fitting, blending into what I smeared on there to form one big grommet with
threads!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <apat@istar.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2003 12:46 PM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats

Probably not, based on Wayne's experiences ! ;-)

But, in your case, it doesn't have to stick, just fill
a bit of the gap - certainly worth a try !! Sounds like Walter
got his to work just by really tightening the clamp, so, if
you add some Pro-Seal and let it set up a bit & clamp gently
until it cures, then reef, it should be great....

....bobp

---------------------------------orig.-------------------------------
At 12:31 AM 6/18/03 -0400, you wrote:
At 02:18 PM 6/17/2003 -0400, you wrote:
Hi Drew !

Not using the clear plastic tubing supplied ?? ;-)

I had an old 1 qt. EP-430 can for my reservoir, with
soldered-on pipes .... worked ok.

.....bobp

Hi Bob MAM supplied black rubber hose to go from the tank to the pump
and from the pump to the diverter valve. I have clear plastic for the

rest.

I talked to brian and elain at MAM today. They're aware of the problem

and

are trying to source some new tanks but they have no timetable for when
this might happen. I don't want to wait so I'm going to try to adapt what

I

have. Do you think pro-seal will stick to plastic?
Drew Dalgleish

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Rebflyer · Post by **Rebflyer** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:12 pm

Hi all, one other thing to try when clamping onto plastic is to insert a
thinwall sleeve of brass or like material to prevent the collapse. Just like you
should have done on your brake lines. Curt

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------