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1800 floats
1800 floats
Hi Wayne,
The keelrub sounds like a good idea, again! As all my ops begin on
pavement, and eventually end up there, I'm sure I'm going to need it. On that
line though, I have no sign of rubbing yet, and in comparsion in my eye to a
set of straight edo's and wippline amphibs I can oggle, it seem that the
slope from the step to the tail is slightly more than those two. While
installing the floats originally we rocked the tail down to see the angle of
attack. It was way higher than I have ever flared! I have found when
grounding the tail on a beach that I was really glad I trimed the water
rudders to follow the angle of the float bottoms. With slight power for
momentum I can still make a 180 turn in 16-18 kt wind. I'm sure the keel rub
will be a great addition for tail grounding. What great fun!
On that note I'm waiting not so patiently for Mon am so I can get my
kidney stone removed. They cant do the stone blasting this time so I gotta
get cut. With that out of the way I can get Angus' stol kit finished and
unground my self! Life without flying sucks!!!
Anyway, thanks again for the tip Wayne.
And keep at it everyone, it's worth it!!! Curt N97MR
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The keelrub sounds like a good idea, again! As all my ops begin on
pavement, and eventually end up there, I'm sure I'm going to need it. On that
line though, I have no sign of rubbing yet, and in comparsion in my eye to a
set of straight edo's and wippline amphibs I can oggle, it seem that the
slope from the step to the tail is slightly more than those two. While
installing the floats originally we rocked the tail down to see the angle of
attack. It was way higher than I have ever flared! I have found when
grounding the tail on a beach that I was really glad I trimed the water
rudders to follow the angle of the float bottoms. With slight power for
momentum I can still make a 180 turn in 16-18 kt wind. I'm sure the keel rub
will be a great addition for tail grounding. What great fun!
On that note I'm waiting not so patiently for Mon am so I can get my
kidney stone removed. They cant do the stone blasting this time so I gotta
get cut. With that out of the way I can get Angus' stol kit finished and
unground my self! Life without flying sucks!!!
Anyway, thanks again for the tip Wayne.
And keep at it everyone, it's worth it!!! Curt N97MR
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1800 floats
Good luck with the surgery Curt! I have to go back in some day again myself
to redo the umbilical hernia they screwed up a year ago last fall (that only
held for 10 months).
The keels on the floats I just rebuilt had one tail area that was about
2thou from being worn through and the other had been lightly scuffed. These
have been around for a while and were factory built/flown and then ended up
on Bob P's FOKM that I now own twice (after selling to another guy and
buying back!). Someone through this time frame over flared at least a couple
times (wasn't Bob!!?). I doesn't take much to wear down alum on pavement.
One gear up landing on the step area keel strips, of the Pegastol on Zenair
1150's I work on, wore the 1/4" wear strip down to 1/16"!
Good luck and good health!
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rebflyer@aol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2003 1:42 PM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats
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to redo the umbilical hernia they screwed up a year ago last fall (that only
held for 10 months).
The keels on the floats I just rebuilt had one tail area that was about
2thou from being worn through and the other had been lightly scuffed. These
have been around for a while and were factory built/flown and then ended up
on Bob P's FOKM that I now own twice (after selling to another guy and
buying back!). Someone through this time frame over flared at least a couple
times (wasn't Bob!!?). I doesn't take much to wear down alum on pavement.
One gear up landing on the step area keel strips, of the Pegastol on Zenair
1150's I work on, wore the 1/4" wear strip down to 1/16"!
Good luck and good health!
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rebflyer@aol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2003 1:42 PM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats
thatHi Wayne,
The keelrub sounds like a good idea, again! As all my ops begin on
pavement, and eventually end up there, I'm sure I'm going to need it. On
aline though, I have no sign of rubbing yet, and in comparsion in my eye to
ofset of straight edo's and wippline amphibs I can oggle, it seem that the
slope from the step to the tail is slightly more than those two. While
installing the floats originally we rocked the tail down to see the angle
rubattack. It was way higher than I have ever flared! I have found when
grounding the tail on a beach that I was really glad I trimed the water
rudders to follow the angle of the float bottoms. With slight power for
momentum I can still make a 180 turn in 16-18 kt wind. I'm sure the keel
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*will be a great addition for tail grounding. What great fun!
On that note I'm waiting not so patiently for Mon am so I can get my
kidney stone removed. They cant do the stone blasting this time so I gotta
get cut. With that out of the way I can get Angus' stol kit finished and
unground my self! Life without flying sucks!!!
Anyway, thanks again for the tip Wayne.
And keep at it everyone, it's worth it!!! Curt N97MR
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1800 floats
Thanks Wayne,
In looking at different keel strips, the wear from grounding nose in
is pretty impressive. It all seems to be in a 16 or 18" area under the bow
swoop, just before the flat area. it was full thickness prior to and after
but about 3/4 gone in that area. I'm just wondering out loud about how long
it will be before I have to replace mine. Soon I hope! that means lots of
flying!
I'll be in touch in a week or less. Curt
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In looking at different keel strips, the wear from grounding nose in
is pretty impressive. It all seems to be in a 16 or 18" area under the bow
swoop, just before the flat area. it was full thickness prior to and after
but about 3/4 gone in that area. I'm just wondering out loud about how long
it will be before I have to replace mine. Soon I hope! that means lots of
flying!
I'll be in touch in a week or less. Curt
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1800 floats
Good info Thanks Wayne. I suspect that the murphy floats were designed to
be amphibs from the start and then offered as straight floats. So all that
was removed was the wheels and retract assembly leaving a very strong
straight float. Edo and Wip started as straight floats and needed a lot of
beefing up when turned into amphibs.
Drew
At 01:26 PM 4/20/2003 -0400, you wrote:
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be amphibs from the start and then offered as straight floats. So all that
was removed was the wheels and retract assembly leaving a very strong
straight float. Edo and Wip started as straight floats and needed a lot of
beefing up when turned into amphibs.
Drew
At 01:26 PM 4/20/2003 -0400, you wrote:
Drew DalgleishSteve et all!
Weight of 1800 straight floats I have here are as follows (these have the
.020 side skins).
Each PAINTED float = 78lbs x 2 = 156lb
Spreader bar 8.5lb x 2 = 17lbs
Mounting gear that have steps etc = 27lbs
X cables and all attach hardware including the fuselage attach bolts = 6lbs
Total weight of installation = 206lbs
Landing gear removal weight from a Rebel when you install the floats is
approximately 50lbs if you have the bungees and MAM tail wheel. +4lbs more
if you have a Scott 3200 +6lbs more if you have my die springs instead of
bungees +approximately another 8 lbs if you have the Cessna style leaf gear.
FYI, My "stretched" amphibs weigh 118lbs/float for a total installed weight
of 286lbs. Pretty darn good considering they weighed 277lb when I removed
them as 1500's so I only added approximately 9 lbs to them, making them 21"
longer! Also nice to see that the amphibs are only 80lbs more than
straights, as in the certified world this "differental" number goes through
the roof!
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2003 11:28 AM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats
floatsSteve, I think I meant 1650's! They are hollow at the step area are they
not, without a bulkhead here?? However, maybe I'm thinking the wrongIthat I looked in as 1850 still rings a bell in my head. Maybe they were
older Whips? Did they make an 1850?
As for the weight of a set of MAM 1800 straight floats and mounting gear,gethave a nice (approx 20hr TT) set sitting in the hanger that are currently
seperated from each other, the spreader bars and mounting gear. If I canworkmy two girls to help me later today I will weight them all up and give you
at total.
Anyone that is looking for a set of completed and ready to go straight MAM
1800's send me a personal email oifa@irishfield.on.ca and maybe we canaout a deal! I was thinking of converting them to amphibs, but considering
the time it took to "simply" stretch a set of 1500 amphibs by 21", to make
them 1800's, I think I'll just wait for my prebuilts to arrive and installyouset of those to my plane instead!! ;o))
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2003 4:33 PM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats
replaceHi Wayne and all and thanks for the response to my questions.
I'm not really in love with the EDO's because every time you want tosomething, you have to make an appointment with your banker to see ifonlycan afford it. 1850's are a series that I have never heard of. Thelinefloat certified for the 150/152 Cessnas was the 1650A's. The next inwhichandwas the 2000's. Identical to the 1650's but 18" longer and another bulk
head. I have rebuilt a set of 1650's that had the serial numbers 10029none30. EDO says they were the 29th and 30th float in that series that they
build for the Piper family in the 1940's. I rebuilt these about 1997;
roughly 45 years of age. They had no corrision on any of the parts andhitof the lap joints were chromated. Unknown if they had any salt water
history; I would suspect not. As far as tearing a hole thru 2024, I was
taxing one day while out fishing, not on the step but not at an idle andtipeda rock, a rough white granite rock. I felt it hit hard and it actuallyrivetsthe fuse forward. I just headed to the nearest beach expecting to find a
large gash somewhere on the bottom. I found a scuff three to four inches
long just before the second bulk head. Ended up replacing a couple ofin that location.
The 1650's that I have now weigh 80 lbs a barrel = 160 lbs plus struts
spreaders etc to 205 total. Does anyone have the total weight up to the
fuselage bolts for the straight 1800's?. I see three different weights
quoted by Murphy.
I'm thinking of making a set along the lines of the 1650's but extending
them 10 inches in front of the step plus a bulk head, plus flat deck*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*shud put them in the 1800 range.
Nice to have people to bounce ideas off of!
Steve W
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1800 floats
Steve, the original MAM 1800 design (the way I put Howard's together in
1997) was all bulkheads .025" / side skins .020" / rear bottoms .025" and
step to nose bottoms .032". Keel strips .063" with a 1/2" wide x 1/4" deep
wear strip attached to the step to nose keel strip.
I know in the last few years that you could order them with side skins at
.025" instead of .020", but not sure if the bottoms where
increased/available one size thicker as well.
Just remember it doesn't seem like much but .020 to .025 is a 25% weight
increase!! .025 to .032 is 28% increase and .032 to .040 is 25% as well. The
bulkheads/extrusions/chines etc are staying the same so hard to do a true
estimate of total float weight increase by going a thickness up on all skins
and if you duplicate to 2024 it weights more than 6061 as well.
Bruce has his prebuilts home (and was nice enough to have a good look at my
two sets at the factory as well to be sure all is well.... THANKS BRUCE!)
maybe the sizing ink is still visible and he can update us on what is being
produced these days or maybe Bob Patterson, being the only authorized
factory sales representative, has some answers to this as well!
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2003 9:25 PM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats
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1997) was all bulkheads .025" / side skins .020" / rear bottoms .025" and
step to nose bottoms .032". Keel strips .063" with a 1/2" wide x 1/4" deep
wear strip attached to the step to nose keel strip.
I know in the last few years that you could order them with side skins at
.025" instead of .020", but not sure if the bottoms where
increased/available one size thicker as well.
Just remember it doesn't seem like much but .020 to .025 is a 25% weight
increase!! .025 to .032 is 28% increase and .032 to .040 is 25% as well. The
bulkheads/extrusions/chines etc are staying the same so hard to do a true
estimate of total float weight increase by going a thickness up on all skins
and if you duplicate to 2024 it weights more than 6061 as well.
Bruce has his prebuilts home (and was nice enough to have a good look at my
two sets at the factory as well to be sure all is well.... THANKS BRUCE!)
maybe the sizing ink is still visible and he can update us on what is being
produced these days or maybe Bob Patterson, being the only authorized
factory sales representative, has some answers to this as well!
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2003 9:25 PM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats
ideaWayne,
Thanks for the info on the total weight of the 1800's. Even the amphib
weight has me thinking about them again. Nice to have the best of both
worlds! Someone indicated that the newer kits have thicker skins. Any
arewhat the four cover skins are; top and bottom? Two top skins on the EDO
6lbs.025, .040 (up from .032) front bottom and .032 for the bottom rear? To
your question, the only other float I know of in the 1800 range was 1800's
made by Cap- just an EDO clone except they incorporated a nice spreader
assembly that entered the float like alot of large floats have today. No
outside eyebolts, plates etc.
Steve W.
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: 1800 floats
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 13:26:49 -0400
Steve et all!
Weight of 1800 straight floats I have here are as follows (these have the
.020 side skins).
Each PAINTED float = 78lbs x 2 = 156lb
Spreader bar 8.5lb x 2 = 17lbs
Mounting gear that have steps etc = 27lbs
X cables and all attach hardware including the fuselage attach bolts =
moreTotal weight of installation = 206lbs
Landing gear removal weight from a Rebel when you install the floats is
approximately 50lbs if you have the bungees and MAM tail wheel. +4lbs
weightif you have a Scott 3200 +6lbs more if you have my die springs instead of
bungees +approximately another 8 lbs if you have the Cessna style leaf
gear.
FYI, My "stretched" amphibs weigh 118lbs/float for a total installed
21"of 286lbs. Pretty darn good considering they weighed 277lb when I removed
them as 1500's so I only added approximately 9 lbs to them, making them
throughlonger! Also nice to see that the amphibs are only 80lbs more than
straights, as in the certified world this "differental" number goes
theythe roof!
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2003 11:28 AM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats
Steve, I think I meant 1650's! They are hollow at the step area are
werefloatsnot, without a bulkhead here?? However, maybe I'm thinking the wrongthat I looked in as 1850 still rings a bell in my head. Maybe they
cangear,older Whips? Did they make an 1850?
As for the weight of a set of MAM 1800 straight floats and mounting
Icurrentlyhave a nice (approx 20hr TT) set sitting in the hanger that areseperated from each other, the spreader bars and mounting gear. If I
ifgetyoumy two girls to help me later today I will weight them all up and giveMAMat total.
Anyone that is looking for a set of completed and ready to go straightwork1800's send me a personal email oifa@irishfield.on.ca and maybe we canconsideringout a deal! I was thinking of converting them to amphibs, butmakethe time it took to "simply" stretch a set of 1500 amphibs by 21", toinstallthem 1800's, I think I'll just wait for my prebuilts to arrive and
aset of those to my plane instead!! ;o))
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2003 4:33 PM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats
replace
inyouonly
1997;linebulk10029theyand
and
actuallywasnoneandhit
findtiped
ofainches
strutsrivets
http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*theweightsextendingwhich
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1800 floats
Wayne,
Thanks for the info on the total weight of the 1800's. Even the amphib
weight has me thinking about them again. Nice to have the best of both
worlds! Someone indicated that the newer kits have thicker skins. Any idea
what the four cover skins are; top and bottom? Two top skins on the EDO are
.025, .040 (up from .032) front bottom and .032 for the bottom rear? To
your question, the only other float I know of in the 1800 range was 1800's
made by Cap- just an EDO clone except they incorporated a nice spreader
assembly that entered the float like alot of large floats have today. No
outside eyebolts, plates etc.
Steve W.
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Thanks for the info on the total weight of the 1800's. Even the amphib
weight has me thinking about them again. Nice to have the best of both
worlds! Someone indicated that the newer kits have thicker skins. Any idea
what the four cover skins are; top and bottom? Two top skins on the EDO are
.025, .040 (up from .032) front bottom and .032 for the bottom rear? To
your question, the only other float I know of in the 1800 range was 1800's
made by Cap- just an EDO clone except they incorporated a nice spreader
assembly that entered the float like alot of large floats have today. No
outside eyebolts, plates etc.
Steve W.
_________________________________________________________________From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: 1800 floats
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 13:26:49 -0400
Steve et all!
Weight of 1800 straight floats I have here are as follows (these have the
.020 side skins).
Each PAINTED float = 78lbs x 2 = 156lb
Spreader bar 8.5lb x 2 = 17lbs
Mounting gear that have steps etc = 27lbs
X cables and all attach hardware including the fuselage attach bolts = 6lbs
Total weight of installation = 206lbs
Landing gear removal weight from a Rebel when you install the floats is
approximately 50lbs if you have the bungees and MAM tail wheel. +4lbs more
if you have a Scott 3200 +6lbs more if you have my die springs instead of
bungees +approximately another 8 lbs if you have the Cessna style leaf
gear.
FYI, My "stretched" amphibs weigh 118lbs/float for a total installed weight
of 286lbs. Pretty darn good considering they weighed 277lb when I removed
them as 1500's so I only added approximately 9 lbs to them, making them 21"
longer! Also nice to see that the amphibs are only 80lbs more than
straights, as in the certified world this "differental" number goes through
the roof!
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2003 11:28 AM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats
floatsSteve, I think I meant 1650's! They are hollow at the step area are they
not, without a bulkhead here?? However, maybe I'm thinking the wronggear,that I looked in as 1850 still rings a bell in my head. Maybe they were
older Whips? Did they make an 1850?
As for the weight of a set of MAM 1800 straight floats and mounting
Icurrentlyhave a nice (approx 20hr TT) set sitting in the hanger that aregetseperated from each other, the spreader bars and mounting gear. If I canyoumy two girls to help me later today I will weight them all up and giveMAMat total.
Anyone that is looking for a set of completed and ready to go straightwork1800's send me a personal email oifa@irishfield.on.ca and maybe we canconsideringout a deal! I was thinking of converting them to amphibs, butmakethe time it took to "simply" stretch a set of 1500 amphibs by 21", toinstallthem 1800's, I think I'll just wait for my prebuilts to arrive and
ayouset of those to my plane instead!! ;o))
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2003 4:33 PM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats
replaceHi Wayne and all and thanks for the response to my questions.
I'm not really in love with the EDO's because every time you want tosomething, you have to make an appointment with your banker to see ifonlycan afford it. 1850's are a series that I have never heard of. Thelinefloat certified for the 150/152 Cessnas was the 1650A's. The next inbulkwas the 2000's. Identical to the 1650's but 18" longer and another10029head. I have rebuilt a set of 1650's that had the serial numberstheyand30. EDO says they were the 29th and 30th float in that series thatwasnonebuild for the Piper family in the 1940's. I rebuilt these about 1997;
roughly 45 years of age. They had no corrision on any of the parts andof the lap joints were chromated. Unknown if they had any salt water
history; I would suspect not. As far as tearing a hole thru 2024, Iandtaxing one day while out fishing, not on the step but not at an idleahittipeda rock, a rough white granite rock. I felt it hit hard and it actuallythe fuse forward. I just headed to the nearest beach expecting to findincheslarge gash somewhere on the bottom. I found a scuff three to fourtherivetslong just before the second bulk head. Ended up replacing a couple ofin that location.
The 1650's that I have now weigh 80 lbs a barrel = 160 lbs plus struts
spreaders etc to 205 total. Does anyone have the total weight up toweightsfuselage bolts for the straight 1800's?. I see three differentextendingquoted by Murphy.
I'm thinking of making a set along the lines of the 1650's butwhichthem 10 inches in front of the step plus a bulk head, plus flat deck*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*shud put them in the 1800 range.
Nice to have people to bounce ideas off of!
Steve W
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1800 floats
Wayne, Steve,
The top (deck) is .040, the sides measured through the inspection wholes
(front and back) . 050 including a doubler. I suspect they are .025 as the
doubler and side skin appear the same width. The bottoms I was able to
measure at the nose gear (as a tiny peace was protruding past the seam) and
they measure . 032. I could not tell at the rear bottom skin.
Cheers,
Bruce 357R
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The top (deck) is .040, the sides measured through the inspection wholes
(front and back) . 050 including a doubler. I suspect they are .025 as the
doubler and side skin appear the same width. The bottoms I was able to
measure at the nose gear (as a tiny peace was protruding past the seam) and
they measure . 032. I could not tell at the rear bottom skin.
Cheers,
Bruce 357R
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1800 floats
Thanks Bruce, so only the side skins have changed and sounds like everything
else has remained constant. That's fine with me as the weight (or lack of)
is what keeps the Rebel on floats such a wonderful performer and the .025
side skins will stand up a bit better to the docks than the .020's. If you
knock a hole through the bottoms, on a rock, pop off the cover /stick your
Mustang life vests in there and pull the rip cords, then reinstall the lid
and fly home!!
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@aol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2003 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats
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else has remained constant. That's fine with me as the weight (or lack of)
is what keeps the Rebel on floats such a wonderful performer and the .025
side skins will stand up a bit better to the docks than the .020's. If you
knock a hole through the bottoms, on a rock, pop off the cover /stick your
Mustang life vests in there and pull the rip cords, then reinstall the lid
and fly home!!
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@aol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2003 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats
andWayne, Steve,
The top (deck) is .040, the sides measured through the inspection wholes
(front and back) . 050 including a doubler. I suspect they are .025 as the
doubler and side skin appear the same width. The bottoms I was able to
measure at the nose gear (as a tiny peace was protruding past the seam)
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*they measure . 032. I could not tell at the rear bottom skin.
Cheers,
Bruce 357R
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1800 floats
Bruce, are you sure that your front bottom skins are
only .032? I was down at my hangar today, and did some
measuring with my callipers, and was able to get some
measurements from some edge material. My front bottoms
were .040 and the rears were .032.
It could be, too, that MAM has changed their sizes more
than once on the float skins. Mine were from the 1st
set of pre-builts a couple of years ago. It could also
explain why my net weight increase on my plane was 275+
lbs, not 225 or 250 as I have seen reported by some
others.
Perhaps someone at MAM could offer some explanations.
Walter
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only .032? I was down at my hangar today, and did some
measuring with my callipers, and was able to get some
measurements from some edge material. My front bottoms
were .040 and the rears were .032.
It could be, too, that MAM has changed their sizes more
than once on the float skins. Mine were from the 1st
set of pre-builts a couple of years ago. It could also
explain why my net weight increase on my plane was 275+
lbs, not 225 or 250 as I have seen reported by some
others.
Perhaps someone at MAM could offer some explanations.
Walter
cribe.wcx-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Wayne G. O'Shea
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2003 5:53 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: 1800 floats
Thanks Bruce, so only the side skins have
changed and sounds like everything
else has remained constant. That's fine with
me as the weight (or lack of)
is what keeps the Rebel on floats such a
wonderful performer and the .025
side skins will stand up a bit better to the
docks than the .020's. If you
knock a hole through the bottoms, on a rock,
pop off the cover /stick your
Mustang life vests in there and pull the rip
cords, then reinstall the lid
and fly home!!
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@aol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2003 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats
through the inspection wholesWayne, Steve,
The top (deck) is .040, the sides measureddoubler. I suspect they are .025 as the(front and back) . 050 including awidth. The bottoms I was able todoubler and side skin appear the samewas protruding past the seam)measure at the nose gear (as a tiny peace
andthe rear bottom skin.they measure . 032. I could not tell at*--------------------------------------------Cheers,
Bruce 357R
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1800 floats
Walter,
It is possible the front bottom skins could have been .040 and not .032. I
had to measure from a double seam at the front edge that was overhung ever so
slightly. It did dial in at .032 as I measured it.
Bruce 357R
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It is possible the front bottom skins could have been .040 and not .032. I
had to measure from a double seam at the front edge that was overhung ever so
slightly. It did dial in at .032 as I measured it.
Bruce 357R
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1800 floats
Yes, they are the 1800 amphibs. I am very happy with
their performance and how the gear and hydraulics work,
but they did weigh a bit more than expected.
Walter
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their performance and how the gear and hydraulics work,
but they did weigh a bit more than expected.
Walter
.asp?cid=3963-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
steve whitenect
Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2003 9:59 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: 1800 floats
Walter, are your floats amphibs? 275lbs
would be unacceptable for straights
so they must be.
Steve W.
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1800 floats
Walter, are your floats amphibs? 275lbs would be unacceptable for straights
so they must be.
Steve W.
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so they must be.
Steve W.
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1800 floats
I'm trying to get as much of my float instal done as I can with the plane
still on wheels. One of the things I'm doing ahead of time is installing
the hydraulic tank but I've run into a problem. On the amphib hydraulic
tank the inlet and outlet are only 1/4". Any suggestions as to connecting a
3/8" rubber hose without having it leak? Or should I just throw it away and
build one out of aluminum and pro-seal?
Drew Dalgleish
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still on wheels. One of the things I'm doing ahead of time is installing
the hydraulic tank but I've run into a problem. On the amphib hydraulic
tank the inlet and outlet are only 1/4". Any suggestions as to connecting a
3/8" rubber hose without having it leak? Or should I just throw it away and
build one out of aluminum and pro-seal?
Drew Dalgleish
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1800 floats
Hi Drew !
Not using the clear plastic tubing supplied ?? ;-)
I had an old 1 qt. EP-430 can for my reservoir, with
soldered-on pipes .... worked ok.
.....bobp
---------------------------------orig.----------------------------
At 01:05 PM 6/17/03 -0400, you wrote:
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Not using the clear plastic tubing supplied ?? ;-)
I had an old 1 qt. EP-430 can for my reservoir, with
soldered-on pipes .... worked ok.
.....bobp
---------------------------------orig.----------------------------
At 01:05 PM 6/17/03 -0400, you wrote:
I'm trying to get as much of my float instal done as I can with the plane
still on wheels. One of the things I'm doing ahead of time is installing
the hydraulic tank but I've run into a problem. On the amphib hydraulic
tank the inlet and outlet are only 1/4". Any suggestions as to connecting a
3/8" rubber hose without having it leak? Or should I just throw it away and
build one out of aluminum and pro-seal?
Drew Dalgleish
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1800 floats
Yup, in my case I used the plastic hose to the top
return inlet. On the bottom, I had to use the 3/8 hose
that attaches to the pump. I just made sure that I used
a small hose clamp that fitted inside the barb of the
inlet and tightened it good. Never had any leaks.
Remember, the reservoir is not under pressure, so less
chance of leaking. I prefer the transparent reservoir,
so that you can always see how much fluid you have in
case you ever do have a leak somewhere in the system.
As for the plastic lines, I have been chided by some
locals here, too, for sticking with them. However,
again I like them because they are transparent,
allowing you to get rid of every last bubble in your
system, without ever having to bleed anything and make
a mess. And I probably saved a few pounds. The only
problem I did have with them initially was making leak
free joints. I solved that by going to an auto shop and
getting different compression rings (not sure what
exactly you call them) and no more problems. I think
they cost about 5 cents each.
Walter
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return inlet. On the bottom, I had to use the 3/8 hose
that attaches to the pump. I just made sure that I used
a small hose clamp that fitted inside the barb of the
inlet and tightened it good. Never had any leaks.
Remember, the reservoir is not under pressure, so less
chance of leaking. I prefer the transparent reservoir,
so that you can always see how much fluid you have in
case you ever do have a leak somewhere in the system.
As for the plastic lines, I have been chided by some
locals here, too, for sticking with them. However,
again I like them because they are transparent,
allowing you to get rid of every last bubble in your
system, without ever having to bleed anything and make
a mess. And I probably saved a few pounds. The only
problem I did have with them initially was making leak
free joints. I solved that by going to an auto shop and
getting different compression rings (not sure what
exactly you call them) and no more problems. I think
they cost about 5 cents each.
Walter
cribe.wcx-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Bob
Patterson
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 11:19 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: 1800 floats
Hi Drew !
Not using the clear plastic tubing
supplied ?? ;-)
I had an old 1 qt. EP-430 can for my
reservoir, with
soldered-on pipes .... worked ok.
.....bobp
---------------------------------orig.-------
---------------------
At 01:05 PM 6/17/03 -0400, you wrote:instal done as I can with the planeI'm trying to get as much of my floatdoing ahead of time is installingstill on wheels. One of the things I'mproblem. On the amphib hydraulicthe hydraulic tank but I've run into aAny suggestions as to connecting atank the inlet and outlet are only 1/4".should I just throw it away and3/8" rubber hose without having it leak? Or------------------------------*build one out of aluminum and pro-seal?
Drew Dalgleish
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