electrical connectors

[Jones, Mike]

Hi all

Another source for electrical connectors is McMaster-carr, web link is

http://www.mcmaster.com/


they have online catalogue of thousands of other things as well. for
electrical connectors search under nano connectors

Mike#007


EOM

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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Got the following link from hanging out on Supercubs.org. Looks like a place
I could have used for years!! ;o)

http://www.terminaltown.com/

Wayne





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[Rickhm at home]

Timing is everything! Looks great. For those putting the battery in the tail cone, what gauge of wire are people running #2 or #4?

Rick Muller
SR70

-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne G. O'Shea [SMTP:oifa@irishfield.on.ca]
Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2003 5:09 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Electrical Connectors

Got the following link from hanging out on Supercubs.org. Looks like a place
I could have used for years!! ;o)

http://www.terminaltown.com/

Wayne





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[Steve Halvorsen]

Anyone that has access to ordering from McMaster Carr would save a LOT of
$$$$$.
Prices are about 50% to 70% less for the same thing as listed on
terminaltown and the SAME
manufacture. Prices are about $5.00 (US) for ring terminals (red) 100 to
the box, ect.
Just my 2 cents. Most terminals from McMaster are made by Molex.

Steve H.
Moose 213

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Rickhm at home
Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2003 9:34 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Electrical Connectors


Timing is everything! Looks great. For those putting the battery in the
tail cone, what gauge of wire are people running #2 or #4?

Rick Muller
SR70

-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne G. O'Shea [SMTP:oifa@irishfield.on.ca]
Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2003 5:09 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Electrical Connectors

Got the following link from hanging out on Supercubs.org. Looks like a place
I could have used for years!! ;o)
T
http://www.terminaltown.com/

Wayne





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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Good to know! I just poked my "eyes" into the site quickly and really liked
the ground solder units that you just bare a small spot on the shielded wire
and slip the connector over and then heat it with a heat gun/torch. Melts
the solder, shrinks the tube for a moisture proof seal and gives you a pig
tail for grounding, instead of going through the nonsense of combing out the
braid to get a terminal on it!

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Halvorsen" <shalvorsen@dataflo.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2003 3:14 PM
Subject: RE: Electrical Connectors

Anyone that has access to ordering from McMaster Carr would save a LOT of
$$$$$.
Prices are about 50% to 70% less for the same thing as listed on
terminaltown and the SAME
manufacture. Prices are about $5.00 (US) for ring terminals (red) 100 to
the box, ect.
Just my 2 cents. Most terminals from McMaster are made by Molex.

Steve H.
Moose 213

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Rickhm at home
Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2003 9:34 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Electrical Connectors


Timing is everything! Looks great. For those putting the battery in the
tail cone, what gauge of wire are people running #2 or #4?

Rick Muller
SR70

-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne G. O'Shea [SMTP:oifa@irishfield.on.ca]
Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2003 5:09 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Electrical Connectors

Got the following link from hanging out on Supercubs.org. Looks like a

place

I could have used for years!! ;o)
T
http://www.terminaltown.com/

Wayne

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[Legeorgen]

Rick,

I used a #4 welding cable for an 0320 Rebel and it worked well all last
winter.

Bruce 357R



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[Steve Halvorsen]

Rick:

I replaced my ALU. cables on my ARROW with a kit and it had #0 copper cable
with it.
Had slow starter problem. My battery is located in the tail.
Some of the kits for Arrows come with #1 cable. Has worked great!
The bigger the better within reason. Less electrical loss for a long run.

Steve H.
Moose 213

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Legeorgen@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2003 5:53 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Electrical Connectors


Rick,

I used a #4 welding cable for an 0320 Rebel and it worked well all last
winter.

Bruce 357R



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[Murray and Carol Cherkas]

Hello Rick;

Tony Bingellis' shows a 1/0. This is what I put in. I bought a 1/0 welding
cable which is very flexible.And yes it does weigh a few pounds. I'm
building a rebel. Also bought an Oddysey PC680 battery installed as far back
as the floor allowed.Put the battery on one side of the hat track and the
ELT on the other.

GOOD luck
Murray

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Steve Halvorsen
Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2003 12:14 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Electrical Connectors



Anyone that has access to ordering from McMaster Carr would save a LOT of
$$$$$.
Prices are about 50% to 70% less for the same thing as listed on
terminaltown and the SAME
manufacture. Prices are about $5.00 (US) for ring terminals (red) 100 to
the box, ect.
Just my 2 cents. Most terminals from McMaster are made by Molex.

Steve H.
Moose 213

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Rickhm at home
Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2003 9:34 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Electrical Connectors


Timing is everything! Looks great. For those putting the battery in the
tail cone, what gauge of wire are people running #2 or #4?

Rick Muller
SR70

-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne G. O'Shea [SMTP:oifa@irishfield.on.ca]
Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2003 5:09 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Electrical Connectors

Got the following link from hanging out on Supercubs.org. Looks like a place
I could have used for years!! ;o)
T
http://www.terminaltown.com/

Wayne





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[PK]

Re aluminum starter cables:

Aluminum is slightly less conductive than copper, so going one size up
usually solves this problem. It will still be significantly lighter than
copper.
The big diff between aluminum and copper is that aluminum oxide is not
conductive whereas copper oxide is (less conductive than nonoxidized copper,
but still conductive). The problem with aluminum is in termination. One must
scrape (scotchbrite) aluminum oxide off and then quickly clamp wire between
washers, maximizing contact surface area as much as possible. This terminal
will heat and cool during startups. If neglected it will become loose over
time and lose contact (may even start sparking and melting!!!!). The
BIGGEST MISTAKE is to just tighten this terminal and think that problem is
solved. You must first take it apart do the scotchbrite and quickly clamp
again. This may need to be done periodically (perhaps annually?). Alum
terminals should be kept accessible so that tightness can be inspected
regularly.
There are goops to seal possible spark. I am not familiar with them, perhaps
someone else can comment.
Most of the world is wired with aluminum, every big transformer, every
welding machine, every hydroline in the country. There are all kinds of
termination methods for it, just has to be done right and maintained.
But if you want peace of mind, less hassle and dont mind the added weight,
go with copper.

Paul Kucera

Rebel builder 453R



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[David Sowder]

From an electrical type person and an aluminum company

employee:

1. Always use a connector that designed for aluminum
or aluminum/copper.

2. Always use a joint compand, liberally, your local
electrical supplier will have several. NoAllox or
Alcoa2. I have used both for low and high voltage
connections and have never had any problems. These
compounds prevent corrosion and moisture build up in
the joint. Moisture will cause the aluminum to corrode
and turn back into a white, non-conductive powder
(heat/sparks/fire).

3. If you are going to use aluminum wire, frequent
check of the conection(s) is mandatory. Checking for
both corrosion and tightness of the connection. Copper
connections still need to be checked also, but not as
often as aluminum.

Mike Sowder

--- klehman@albedo.net wrote:

I'd consider one of those joint compounds mandatory.
Think mine is
called NoAllox. Otherwise corrosion will occur, heat
will occur.
Aluminum tends to flow a bit in a connection so
mechanical pressure
alone won't guarantee a gas tight corrosion free
connection. Problem is
much worse if connectors specifically designed for
aluminum are not
used. This problem has resulted in a high incidence
of fire in houses
before the joint compound was mandated.
Ken

PK wrote:

Re aluminum starter cables:

Aluminum is slightly less conductive than copper,

so going one size up

usually solves this problem. It will still be

significantly lighter than

copper.
The big diff between aluminum and copper is that

aluminum oxide is not

conductive whereas copper oxide is (less

conductive than nonoxidized copper,

but still conductive). The problem with aluminum

is in termination. One must

scrape (scotchbrite) aluminum oxide off and then

quickly clamp wire between

washers, maximizing contact surface area as much

as possible. This terminal

will heat and cool during startups. If neglected

it will become loose over

time and lose contact (may even start sparking

and melting!!!!). The

BIGGEST MISTAKE is to just tighten this terminal

and think that problem is

solved. You must first take it apart do the

scotchbrite and quickly clamp

again. This may need to be done periodically

(perhaps annually?). Alum

terminals should be kept accessible so that

tightness can be inspected

regularly.
There are goops to seal possible spark. I am not

familiar with them, perhaps

someone else can comment.
Most of the world is wired with aluminum, every

big transformer, every

welding machine, every hydroline in the country.

There are all kinds of

termination methods for it, just has to be done

right and maintained.

But if you want peace of mind, less hassle and

dont mind the added weight,

go with copper.

Paul Kucera

Rebel builder 453R

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=====
David M Sowder RCDD/LAN Specialist
Simple Technology Solutions, Inc.
(812) 925-8240 (voice/fax)
(812) 204-2320

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
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[klehman]

I'd consider one of those joint compounds mandatory. Think mine is
called NoAllox. Otherwise corrosion will occur, heat will occur.
Aluminum tends to flow a bit in a connection so mechanical pressure
alone won't guarantee a gas tight corrosion free connection. Problem is
much worse if connectors specifically designed for aluminum are not
used. This problem has resulted in a high incidence of fire in houses
before the joint compound was mandated.
Ken

PK wrote:

Re aluminum starter cables:

Aluminum is slightly less conductive than copper, so going one size up
usually solves this problem. It will still be significantly lighter than
copper.
The big diff between aluminum and copper is that aluminum oxide is not
conductive whereas copper oxide is (less conductive than nonoxidized copper,
but still conductive). The problem with aluminum is in termination. One must
scrape (scotchbrite) aluminum oxide off and then quickly clamp wire between
washers, maximizing contact surface area as much as possible. This terminal
will heat and cool during startups. If neglected it will become loose over
time and lose contact (may even start sparking and melting!!!!). The
BIGGEST MISTAKE is to just tighten this terminal and think that problem is
solved. You must first take it apart do the scotchbrite and quickly clamp
again. This may need to be done periodically (perhaps annually?). Alum
terminals should be kept accessible so that tightness can be inspected
regularly.
There are goops to seal possible spark. I am not familiar with them, perhaps
someone else can comment.
Most of the world is wired with aluminum, every big transformer, every
welding machine, every hydroline in the country. There are all kinds of
termination methods for it, just has to be done right and maintained.
But if you want peace of mind, less hassle and dont mind the added weight,
go with copper.

Paul Kucera

Rebel builder 453R

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[Dave-Sandra]

From this Powerlineman to you!!!!

That goop you see the hydro crews putting on the ends of the aluminum wire
is a contact paste ( anti oxidant )
There are various manufacturers ie; Ideal, NoAlox , Kearney as well as many
others .As others have stated make sure you use a connector specificaly
designed for Al and follow the manufaturers directions on the prduct you are
using (some say coat the connector and wire others say to wire brush the
paste into the wire....... Just my two bits, but I personally would stay
away from aluminum wire in any area that is subject to vibration as it WILL
work harden and fail over time. Not trying to stick my nose into anybodies
buisness but I watched my dad spend 9 years building his Christavia and
would hate to see someone lose their plane to fire from trying to save a few
pounds . sorry if I have offended any aluminum users as I said Just my two
bits
(thats just a little over 2 cents to you American guys once we add freight
s/h and the exchange lol )
Dave Bjorkman
(Future Mosse builder and avid forum lurker )




-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Rebflyer@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 9:12 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Electrical Connectors


In watching the local electrical service company install the aluminum wire
connection from the pole to the meter I noticed them covering the connection
with some kind of paste. Must be an anti oxidizer of some kind. Anybody have
an idea? I'll look too. It's gotta help. Curt N97MR


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[Rebflyer]

In watching the local electrical service company install the aluminum wire connection from the pole to the meter I noticed them covering the connection with some kind of paste. Must be an anti oxidizer of some kind. Anybody have an idea? I'll look too. It's gotta help. Curt N97MR


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[dmp]

On 28 May 2003 at 13:27, Dave-Sandra wrote:

away from aluminum wire in any area that is subject to vibration as it WILL
work harden and fail over time. Not trying to stick my nose into anybodies

I believe copper actually work hardens worse than aluminum does.

---
David Parrish



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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

The Town of Milton is FULL of houses with Aluminum Wire (as I'm sure are
other towns before it was outlawed!), so watch what you buy there! I almost
lost my house on Graham Bell Court in '84 before I realized what I had.
After that it was a yearly ritual to pull every receptacle/switch out of the
walls and retighten all the terminals (and they were loose every time!)

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 8:27 AM
Subject: Re: Electrical Connectors

I'd consider one of those joint compounds mandatory. Think mine is
called NoAllox. Otherwise corrosion will occur, heat will occur.
Aluminum tends to flow a bit in a connection so mechanical pressure
alone won't guarantee a gas tight corrosion free connection. Problem is
much worse if connectors specifically designed for aluminum are not
used. This problem has resulted in a high incidence of fire in houses
before the joint compound was mandated.
Ken

PK wrote:

Re aluminum starter cables:

Aluminum is slightly less conductive than copper, so going one size up
usually solves this problem. It will still be significantly lighter than
copper.
The big diff between aluminum and copper is that aluminum oxide is not
conductive whereas copper oxide is (less conductive than nonoxidized

copper,

but still conductive). The problem with aluminum is in termination. One

must

scrape (scotchbrite) aluminum oxide off and then quickly clamp wire

between

washers, maximizing contact surface area as much as possible. This

terminal

will heat and cool during startups. If neglected it will become loose

over

time and lose contact (may even start sparking and melting!!!!). The
BIGGEST MISTAKE is to just tighten this terminal and think that problem

is

solved. You must first take it apart do the scotchbrite and quickly

clamp

again. This may need to be done periodically (perhaps annually?). Alum
terminals should be kept accessible so that tightness can be inspected
regularly.
There are goops to seal possible spark. I am not familiar with them,

perhaps

someone else can comment.
Most of the world is wired with aluminum, every big transformer, every
welding machine, every hydroline in the country. There are all kinds of
termination methods for it, just has to be done right and maintained.
But if you want peace of mind, less hassle and dont mind the added

weight,

go with copper.

Paul Kucera

Rebel builder 453R

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