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V8 PSRU discussion

Converted from Wildcat! database. (read only)
Bob Patterson

V8 PSRU discussion

Post by Bob Patterson » Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:59 pm

Hi Mike !

You can get a beautiful helical gear planetary re-drive,
with the small gear INSIDE, for best lubrication, from
Guy Marcotte, in Quebec, for about $3,500 CDN (that's
about $1.42 US ;-) ) He makes drive for V-8's up to
about 800 hp. ! Phone (418) 362-2569

.....bobp

--------------------------------orig.----------------------------
At 06:57 AM 5/4/03 +1000, you wrote:
It's hard to tell from the picture but the PSRU you directed me to looks
like it has a major disadvantage with regard to installation on a Super
Rebel. There doesn't look like there is much distance between the crank
axis and the output axis where the prop bolts on. This will put the top of
your engine somewhere in the middle of your windshield (exaggeration but a
problem nonetheless). I'm looking for PSRUs with at least 7 inches of
separation. I don't think anything less will work. John Worden's
installation with the Geshwender PSRU has 7 inches if I'm not mistaken, and
he still has a bump on the top of the cowl to accommodate the top of the
engine. You are focusing on the engine mount problem with good reason. But
I think the most important decision to make with regard to a V8 installation
is the PSRU. I like helical gear drives because they are robust, have a
long history of use in turboprops, and have a provision for driving a prop
governer. But they are VERY expensive. Right around $10,000! I have heard
belts are nice because they have a desireable dampening affect and are
relatively inexpensive, but do not provide for a prop governer. I think
belts are the noisiest of the lot. I don't know much about the HI-VO chain
that John uses in the Geshwender. It's price falls between belts and gear
drives, and I think it does have a provision for driving a prop governer.
Can you fill us in on the characterisitcs of the chain drive John?

Mike Kimball
SR#044

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rickhm at home" <Rickhm@mindspring.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2003 2:43 AM
Subject: RE: Another V8 Super Rebel?

You have some great support people up there. I have spent some time in
Alaske climbing Denali and down in the St. Elias range. I was always
impressed with the people I met, and there knowledge base. Please keep me
updated on your progress. I do understand the model you are using for
engine design and service. I must admit that I am not overwhelmed with
how
MAM has done some things with respect to their serviceability. Riveting
inspection plates struck me as a all out dumb idea. It is true that an
auto fuel injection system does add a little complexity. I did have to do
some reading to gain an understanding. I also have a buddy that races
cars, mostly Honda civics'. I don't recall the class, but he has won the
national title several times. His average life before tear down is about
20 hours. He and I discussed at length buy Vs build. There are clear
advantages to both. I too was very interested in NW Aero's offering of a
full up engine. But that is now old news. I did find a place that sells
the full engine test run
(http://www.advanceadapters.com/acrobat/enginfo.pdf ). There cost is
$6400. THE GM "Kit Engine" is $5700 and does not come with the
accessories, so $6400 isn't a bad price given the include the accessories
and test run the engine. Regarding Engine mount. I have not done the
hard
look and I need to regarding the mount points on a standard V8 small block
and the LS1. I am very interested in your progress here. After all, the
engine mount is a very key part of the system! Another site you should
check out regarding PSRU is
http://www.ec-securehost.com/Stumpjumpe ... gines.html It
is designed for an airboat. These guys put lots more load on a prop that
we will. Imagine doing a 360 on a dime! The cost is $2500. I know there
are others that are using this in aircraft. The down side is its weight
is
69 lbs. I don't know what other PSRU's weigh. I have not talked to
them,
something else on the list.

Thanks for the update!

Rick Muller
SR70

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Kimball [SMTP:mkimball@gci.net]
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2003 12:47 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Another V8 Super Rebel?

There is a local EAA chapter member in town that also has an engineering
business. It's just he and his wife who has a Ph.D. in engineering.
Between the two of them they will do the analysis and he will create a jig
and weld up my engine mount. The good news is that I will then have a jig
for creating more engine mounts. They have done this before for their
WAGAERO 2+2. Cost should be between $1000 and $1500. I don't know if the
jig will help you with the LS1 since it's a completely new block design
but
if it can be used maybe we can use it to build a mount for you. I was
very
interested in the LS1 when Northwest Aero was selling a complete aircraft
conversion including their own PSRU. Then a couple of things changed my
mind. Northwest stopped selling engines and I didn't put in a fuel
return.
I also became more and more convinced that I wanted the simplest system I
could design, with repair in the field at least a possibility. Once I'm
on
floats I could be just about anywhere up here in Alaska where there won't
be
a convenient parts department. Also, I want to be able to work on
anything
on my airplane and I'm not knowledgeable about electronic fuel injection
systems. I mentioned this philosophy to Robin Dyck, MAM's pilot, and he
said, "Heck, why have a fuel pump at all. Just go with gravity feed and
you
have nothing to fail with fuel delivery to a carburetor."

I'm meeting with a friend who's an expert engine builder on Monday to
start
placing orders to build my engine. Once I know what I'm getting, I'll
pass
it on along with the rationale for each component. I will tell you that
the
engine I'm building will produce an honest 400-425 horsepower and will
cost
a mere $12,000 or so including all accessories.

Mike Kimball
SR #044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Rickhm at home
Sent: Friday, May 02, 2003 5:26 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Another V8 Super Rebel?


I am planning on using an LS1. It will likely be more expensive than
purchasing an aluminum block and building an engine up, but my knowledge
base is not overwhelming when it comes to engine internals and assembly.
I
must also admit the years of building have got me in a mode where I would
like to fly before my 90th birthday. The LS1 also represents a 3rd
generation of engine development by GM. At the moment the one obstacle I
have not found a solution to is engine mount. I guess everyone that uses
an auto engine faces this. Any suggestions? I would be interested in
hearing about your approach!

Rick Muller
SR70

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Kimball [SMTP:mkimball@gci.net]
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 11:05 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Another V8 Super Rebel?

Hey Rick, I lost track of the fact that you are going with a V8. I am
starting to put together an order for parts starting with a Rodeck
aluminum
350 block. Where are you at engine wise?

Mike Kimball
SR #044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
rickhm@mindspring.com
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 6:25 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: RE: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR


Scott,

Thanks for the reply. It is a little hard to describe what I did in
words.
A picture is really worth a thousand words. I would be happy to provide
if
interested. Although taking a picture of this might be a real challenge!

Imagine you are looking at the tail from the right side. There are 2
rivet
lines that hold the two flanges for the sub-assembly the tail spring
attaches two. Of course there are 2 other rivet lines on the left side as
well. As you look at these rivet lines there is a rivet line running for
and aft that holds the wrap around the bottom of the tail. If you have
X-ray vision you would see an angle running "away from you" along the
bottom
of the sub-assembly forward of the side the tail spring attaches to. This
is the "standard" design.

In my addition I added a 4-6" piece of 2" angle (flange on the angle is 2"
long) that runs forward of the sub-assembly. It attaches to the
sub-assembly by 2 bolts. These bolts would appear to run up and down as
viewed from the right (or left side) and connect one flange of my addition
to the flange of the angle that runs along the bottom (away from you)
described above. The angle attaches to the skin. So with your xray
vision
you would see one flange attached to the skin and running forward and the
other flange facing away from you. The skin now has an additional 2 rows
of
rivets in it above the rivet line where the corner wrap attaches.


Clear as mud? I know what you mean about taking stuff apart and
"enhancing
the design." Some of the time I do this as well. I am sure you have had
the experience of seeing something that your more comfortable enhancing.
One area where I did this is along the side of the fus up front. Recall
the
door posts skins and the skin that goes forward from the door post to the
firewall. I put an additional .040 2024-T3 layer over these to strenghten
the entire front end. Since I'm using a V8 engine I felt the extra 10 lbs
was worth the peace of mind. I don't understand why they didn't make this
one piece in the first place?

Thanks for the feedback.

Rick Muller
SR70

-------Original Message-------
From: Scott & Leere' Aldrich <flynski@mwutah.com>
Sent: 05/01/03 05:29 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR
Correction - The one piece tail stinger/stab bracket was welded aluminum
not
4130.

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Scott & Leere' Aldrich
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 2:00 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR


Rick, all the ones I have seen have been the second hole up.

I can't imagine the piece warping under just the load of the empty
fuselage?? However, we did add doublers with an L that picks up the
flanges
on both sides, both front and back. MAMs was cracking on the flanges. Did
they tell anybody?? No.

What does your 4 inch angle tie into? The flanges on the fuselage sides?

I have seen one that has made the entire assembly out of welded 4130. He
needed a wider bracket for the tail stinger as he is upping that also.
May
be the way to go. I am getting good at taking stuff apart that I have
already completed so may do that later...

Scott
Moose #174

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
rickhm@mindspring.com
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 3:53 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR


This weekend I was stringing cable for the rudder. I noticed that where
th
e tail wheel spring (the long pipe) attaches something was not right.
Upon
closer inspection I noticed that horizontal piece (Left side of Fus to
Rig
ht side) had bowed/warped under the minimal weight of the empty fus. This
was largly my mistake which I quickly corrected. But it got me looking
clo
sely and thinking. Under shock load, like that of the tail bouncing, the
f
orce is transfred into this horzontal member consisting of a buildup of
sev
eral pieces. My tail is attached to the second hole from the BOTTOM of
the
bracket. I must admit there has been lots of email on where this goes to
get the top of the tail "level" and mine is still not level (no engine
yet)
. I was not comfortable that the shock load wouldn't eventually crack the
flanges where the horizontal piece attaches to the side skin. I installed
4" of angle to transfer the load from the horizontal piece to the skin.
Th
e 4" angle runs parallel lengthwise toward the front of the fus.

Has anyone else looked at this and been concerned? Within general
reasonab
le tolerance, all the SR's should be about the same with respect to the
tai
l spring (pipe) and the levelness of the top of the tail wheel. Where is
e
veryone else seeing their tail attach, i.e. which hole?

Rick
Muller
SR70


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Rickhm at home

V8 PSRU discussion

Post by Rickhm at home » Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:59 pm

Mike,

It's hard to tell from the picture what the distance btn crank and prop
axis is, but your point is Extremely valid. Prior to finding this PSRU I
was set on the NW Aero unit. Sounds like I may still be there. I will
none the less look into it. The NW Aero distance is 8.55" (per Johnny at
NW Aero) and the flange is 14.?? forward of the flywheel (I think). I have
looked at some of the gear and chain drives. You are correct the cost
difference is about 2-3x. Bob sent us a name we need to check out. There
is also a guy who does V8 units ... Vesta I think. I'll look it up and get
back to you.

RIck SR70

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Kimball [SMTP:mkimball@gci.net]
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2003 2:58 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: V8 PSRU discussion

It's hard to tell from the picture but the PSRU you directed me to looks
like it has a major disadvantage with regard to installation on a Super
Rebel. There doesn't look like there is much distance between the crank
axis and the output axis where the prop bolts on. This will put the top of
your engine somewhere in the middle of your windshield (exaggeration but a
problem nonetheless). I'm looking for PSRUs with at least 7 inches of
separation. I don't think anything less will work. John Worden's
installation with the Geshwender PSRU has 7 inches if I'm not mistaken, and
he still has a bump on the top of the cowl to accommodate the top of the
engine. You are focusing on the engine mount problem with good reason.
But
I think the most important decision to make with regard to a V8
installation
is the PSRU. I like helical gear drives because they are robust, have a
long history of use in turboprops, and have a provision for driving a prop
governer. But they are VERY expensive. Right around $10,000! I have
heard
belts are nice because they have a desireable dampening affect and are
relatively inexpensive, but do not provide for a prop governer. I think
belts are the noisiest of the lot. I don't know much about the HI-VO chain
that John uses in the Geshwender. It's price falls between belts and gear
drives, and I think it does have a provision for driving a prop governer.
Can you fill us in on the characterisitcs of the chain drive John?

Mike Kimball
SR#044

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rickhm at home" <Rickhm@mindspring.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2003 2:43 AM
Subject: RE: Another V8 Super Rebel?

You have some great support people up there. I have spent some time in
Alaske climbing Denali and down in the St. Elias range. I was always
impressed with the people I met, and there knowledge base. Please keep
me
updated on your progress. I do understand the model you are using for
engine design and service. I must admit that I am not overwhelmed with
how
MAM has done some things with respect to their serviceability. Riveting
inspection plates struck me as a all out dumb idea. It is true that an
auto fuel injection system does add a little complexity. I did have to
do
some reading to gain an understanding. I also have a buddy that races
cars, mostly Honda civics'. I don't recall the class, but he has won the
national title several times. His average life before tear down is about
20 hours. He and I discussed at length buy Vs build. There are clear
advantages to both. I too was very interested in NW Aero's offering of a
full up engine. But that is now old news. I did find a place that sells
the full engine test run
(http://www.advanceadapters.com/acrobat/enginfo.pdf ). There cost is
$6400. THE GM "Kit Engine" is $5700 and does not come with the
accessories, so $6400 isn't a bad price given the include the accessories
and test run the engine. Regarding Engine mount. I have not done the
hard
look and I need to regarding the mount points on a standard V8 small
block
and the LS1. I am very interested in your progress here. After all, the
engine mount is a very key part of the system! Another site you should
check out regarding PSRU is
http://www.ec-securehost.com/Stumpjumpe ... gines.html It
is designed for an airboat. These guys put lots more load on a prop that
we will. Imagine doing a 360 on a dime! The cost is $2500. I know
there
are others that are using this in aircraft. The down side is its weight
is
69 lbs. I don't know what other PSRU's weigh. I have not talked to
them,
something else on the list.

Thanks for the update!

Rick Muller
SR70

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Kimball [SMTP:mkimball@gci.net]
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2003 12:47 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Another V8 Super Rebel?

There is a local EAA chapter member in town that also has an engineering
business. It's just he and his wife who has a Ph.D. in engineering.
Between the two of them they will do the analysis and he will create a
jig
and weld up my engine mount. The good news is that I will then have a
jig
for creating more engine mounts. They have done this before for their
WAGAERO 2+2. Cost should be between $1000 and $1500. I don't know if
the
jig will help you with the LS1 since it's a completely new block design
but
if it can be used maybe we can use it to build a mount for you. I was
very
interested in the LS1 when Northwest Aero was selling a complete aircraft
conversion including their own PSRU. Then a couple of things changed my
mind. Northwest stopped selling engines and I didn't put in a fuel
return.
I also became more and more convinced that I wanted the simplest system I
could design, with repair in the field at least a possibility. Once I'm
on
floats I could be just about anywhere up here in Alaska where there won't
be
a convenient parts department. Also, I want to be able to work on
anything
on my airplane and I'm not knowledgeable about electronic fuel injection
systems. I mentioned this philosophy to Robin Dyck, MAM's pilot, and he
said, "Heck, why have a fuel pump at all. Just go with gravity feed and
you
have nothing to fail with fuel delivery to a carburetor."

I'm meeting with a friend who's an expert engine builder on Monday to
start
placing orders to build my engine. Once I know what I'm getting, I'll
pass
it on along with the rationale for each component. I will tell you that
the
engine I'm building will produce an honest 400-425 horsepower and will
cost
a mere $12,000 or so including all accessories.

Mike Kimball
SR #044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Rickhm at home
Sent: Friday, May 02, 2003 5:26 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Another V8 Super Rebel?


I am planning on using an LS1. It will likely be more expensive than
purchasing an aluminum block and building an engine up, but my knowledge
base is not overwhelming when it comes to engine internals and assembly.
I
must also admit the years of building have got me in a mode where I would
like to fly before my 90th birthday. The LS1 also represents a 3rd
generation of engine development by GM. At the moment the one obstacle I
have not found a solution to is engine mount. I guess everyone that uses
an auto engine faces this. Any suggestions? I would be interested in
hearing about your approach!

Rick Muller
SR70

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Kimball [SMTP:mkimball@gci.net]
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 11:05 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Another V8 Super Rebel?

Hey Rick, I lost track of the fact that you are going with a V8. I am
starting to put together an order for parts starting with a Rodeck
aluminum
350 block. Where are you at engine wise?

Mike Kimball
SR #044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
rickhm@mindspring.com
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 6:25 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: RE: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR


Scott,

Thanks for the reply. It is a little hard to describe what I did in
words.
A picture is really worth a thousand words. I would be happy to provide
if
interested. Although taking a picture of this might be a real challenge!

Imagine you are looking at the tail from the right side. There are 2
rivet
lines that hold the two flanges for the sub-assembly the tail spring
attaches two. Of course there are 2 other rivet lines on the left side
as
well. As you look at these rivet lines there is a rivet line running for
and aft that holds the wrap around the bottom of the tail. If you have
X-ray vision you would see an angle running "away from you" along the
bottom
of the sub-assembly forward of the side the tail spring attaches to.
This
is the "standard" design.

In my addition I added a 4-6" piece of 2" angle (flange on the angle is
2"
long) that runs forward of the sub-assembly. It attaches to the
sub-assembly by 2 bolts. These bolts would appear to run up and down as
viewed from the right (or left side) and connect one flange of my
addition
to the flange of the angle that runs along the bottom (away from you)
described above. The angle attaches to the skin. So with your xray
vision
you would see one flange attached to the skin and running forward and the
other flange facing away from you. The skin now has an additional 2 rows
of
rivets in it above the rivet line where the corner wrap attaches.


Clear as mud? I know what you mean about taking stuff apart and
"enhancing
the design." Some of the time I do this as well. I am sure you have had
the experience of seeing something that your more comfortable enhancing.
One area where I did this is along the side of the fus up front. Recall
the
door posts skins and the skin that goes forward from the door post to the
firewall. I put an additional .040 2024-T3 layer over these to
strenghten
the entire front end. Since I'm using a V8 engine I felt the extra 10
lbs
was worth the peace of mind. I don't understand why they didn't make
this
one piece in the first place?

Thanks for the feedback.

Rick Muller
SR70

-------Original Message-------
From: Scott & Leere' Aldrich <flynski@mwutah.com>
Sent: 05/01/03 05:29 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR
Correction - The one piece tail stinger/stab bracket was welded
aluminum
not
4130.

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Scott & Leere' Aldrich
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 2:00 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR


Rick, all the ones I have seen have been the second hole up.

I can't imagine the piece warping under just the load of the empty
fuselage?? However, we did add doublers with an L that picks up the
flanges
on both sides, both front and back. MAMs was cracking on the flanges.
Did
they tell anybody?? No.

What does your 4 inch angle tie into? The flanges on the fuselage sides?

I have seen one that has made the entire assembly out of welded 4130. He
needed a wider bracket for the tail stinger as he is upping that also.
May
be the way to go. I am getting good at taking stuff apart that I have
already completed so may do that later...

Scott
Moose #174

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
rickhm@mindspring.com
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 3:53 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR


This weekend I was stringing cable for the rudder. I noticed that where
th
e tail wheel spring (the long pipe) attaches something was not right.
Upon
closer inspection I noticed that horizontal piece (Left side of Fus to
Rig
ht side) had bowed/warped under the minimal weight of the empty fus.
This
was largly my mistake which I quickly corrected. But it got me looking
clo
sely and thinking. Under shock load, like that of the tail bouncing, the
f
orce is transfred into this horzontal member consisting of a buildup of
sev
eral pieces. My tail is attached to the second hole from the BOTTOM of
the
bracket. I must admit there has been lots of email on where this goes
to
get the top of the tail "level" and mine is still not level (no engine
yet)
. I was not comfortable that the shock load wouldn't eventually crack
the
flanges where the horizontal piece attaches to the side skin. I
installed
4" of angle to transfer the load from the horizontal piece to the skin.
Th
e 4" angle runs parallel lengthwise toward the front of the fus.

Has anyone else looked at this and been concerned? Within general
reasonab
le tolerance, all the SR's should be about the same with respect to the
tai
l spring (pipe) and the levelness of the top of the tail wheel. Where is
e
veryone else seeing their tail attach, i.e. which hole?

Rick
Muller
SR70


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John Worden/Nancy Bulman

V8 PSRU discussion

Post by John Worden/Nancy Bulman » Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:59 pm

Mike,
You are right about the 7 inches for the Geschwender. (It is actually
7.115) I just uploaded a photo and a sketch of my latest engine mount to
the archives. They are in the SR engine section. With this mount I have
placed the prop flange at Murphy's 540 location. The mount is not
necessarily complete as I may yet add some cross members to stiffen the
structure in the transverse direction. The motor actually does this but the
rubber mounts would allow some flex side to side if they were to soften up
or fail. As you can imagine I will need a bump in the cowl for my
carburetor air intake piping. The valve covers shown are 1.5 inches taller
than needed and will be replaced. I may also look for another oil pan -
more along the lines of a marine pan which has the same depth front to
rear. My wife has me building a swimming pool now so progress has slowed
but my goal is to at least mount my prop and run the engine later this summer.
As far as the Geschwender - Since purchasing the business I have sold 5
units - None have yet flown but one is being prepped for a dyno run on a
Lancair IVP.
As far as costs go I have built up a standard 350 for my SR2500 but have
used an aluminum block. The block alone was $4000 US so the total cost of
the engine is probably going to be 7K. This is more than an LS1 on a crate.
The reason I have gone this route is to keep the thing simple - no fuel
injection and engine computer. Additionally there are a million
after-market components available for the small block chevy so
experimenting with cams, exhaust, etc is a little easier to do. However,
the LS1 is compact with its fuel injection and if I had time and money it
would be nice to build up an installation with this engine.

John
SR012


At 01:57 PM 5/3/2003, you wrote:
It's hard to tell from the picture but the PSRU you directed me to looks
like it has a major disadvantage with regard to installation on a Super
Rebel. There doesn't look like there is much distance between the crank
axis and the output axis where the prop bolts on. This will put the top of
your engine somewhere in the middle of your windshield (exaggeration but a
problem nonetheless). I'm looking for PSRUs with at least 7 inches of
separation. I don't think anything less will work. John Worden's
installation with the Geshwender PSRU has 7 inches if I'm not mistaken, and
he still has a bump on the top of the cowl to accommodate the top of the
engine. You are focusing on the engine mount problem with good reason. But
I think the most important decision to make with regard to a V8 installation
is the PSRU. I like helical gear drives because they are robust, have a
long history of use in turboprops, and have a provision for driving a prop
governer. But they are VERY expensive. Right around $10,000! I have heard
belts are nice because they have a desireable dampening affect and are
relatively inexpensive, but do not provide for a prop governer. I think
belts are the noisiest of the lot. I don't know much about the HI-VO chain
that John uses in the Geshwender. It's price falls between belts and gear
drives, and I think it does have a provision for driving a prop governer.
Can you fill us in on the characterisitcs of the chain drive John?

Mike Kimball
SR#044

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rickhm at home" <Rickhm@mindspring.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2003 2:43 AM
Subject: RE: Another V8 Super Rebel?

You have some great support people up there. I have spent some time in
Alaske climbing Denali and down in the St. Elias range. I was always
impressed with the people I met, and there knowledge base. Please keep me
updated on your progress. I do understand the model you are using for
engine design and service. I must admit that I am not overwhelmed with
how
MAM has done some things with respect to their serviceability. Riveting
inspection plates struck me as a all out dumb idea. It is true that an
auto fuel injection system does add a little complexity. I did have to do
some reading to gain an understanding. I also have a buddy that races
cars, mostly Honda civics'. I don't recall the class, but he has won the
national title several times. His average life before tear down is about
20 hours. He and I discussed at length buy Vs build. There are clear
advantages to both. I too was very interested in NW Aero's offering of a
full up engine. But that is now old news. I did find a place that sells
the full engine test run
(http://www.advanceadapters.com/acrobat/enginfo.pdf ). There cost is
$6400. THE GM "Kit Engine" is $5700 and does not come with the
accessories, so $6400 isn't a bad price given the include the accessories
and test run the engine. Regarding Engine mount. I have not done the
hard
look and I need to regarding the mount points on a standard V8 small block
and the LS1. I am very interested in your progress here. After all, the
engine mount is a very key part of the system! Another site you should
check out regarding PSRU is
http://www.ec-securehost.com/Stumpjumpe ... gines.html It
is designed for an airboat. These guys put lots more load on a prop that
we will. Imagine doing a 360 on a dime! The cost is $2500. I know there
are others that are using this in aircraft. The down side is its weight
is
69 lbs. I don't know what other PSRU's weigh. I have not talked to
them,
something else on the list.

Thanks for the update!

Rick Muller
SR70

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Kimball [SMTP:mkimball@gci.net]
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2003 12:47 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Another V8 Super Rebel?

There is a local EAA chapter member in town that also has an engineering
business. It's just he and his wife who has a Ph.D. in engineering.
Between the two of them they will do the analysis and he will create a jig
and weld up my engine mount. The good news is that I will then have a jig
for creating more engine mounts. They have done this before for their
WAGAERO 2+2. Cost should be between $1000 and $1500. I don't know if the
jig will help you with the LS1 since it's a completely new block design
but
if it can be used maybe we can use it to build a mount for you. I was
very
interested in the LS1 when Northwest Aero was selling a complete aircraft
conversion including their own PSRU. Then a couple of things changed my
mind. Northwest stopped selling engines and I didn't put in a fuel
return.
I also became more and more convinced that I wanted the simplest system I
could design, with repair in the field at least a possibility. Once I'm
on
floats I could be just about anywhere up here in Alaska where there won't
be
a convenient parts department. Also, I want to be able to work on
anything
on my airplane and I'm not knowledgeable about electronic fuel injection
systems. I mentioned this philosophy to Robin Dyck, MAM's pilot, and he
said, "Heck, why have a fuel pump at all. Just go with gravity feed and
you
have nothing to fail with fuel delivery to a carburetor."

I'm meeting with a friend who's an expert engine builder on Monday to
start
placing orders to build my engine. Once I know what I'm getting, I'll
pass
it on along with the rationale for each component. I will tell you that
the
engine I'm building will produce an honest 400-425 horsepower and will
cost
a mere $12,000 or so including all accessories.

Mike Kimball
SR #044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Rickhm at home
Sent: Friday, May 02, 2003 5:26 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Another V8 Super Rebel?


I am planning on using an LS1. It will likely be more expensive than
purchasing an aluminum block and building an engine up, but my knowledge
base is not overwhelming when it comes to engine internals and assembly.
I
must also admit the years of building have got me in a mode where I would
like to fly before my 90th birthday. The LS1 also represents a 3rd
generation of engine development by GM. At the moment the one obstacle I
have not found a solution to is engine mount. I guess everyone that uses
an auto engine faces this. Any suggestions? I would be interested in
hearing about your approach!

Rick Muller
SR70

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Kimball [SMTP:mkimball@gci.net]
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 11:05 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Another V8 Super Rebel?

Hey Rick, I lost track of the fact that you are going with a V8. I am
starting to put together an order for parts starting with a Rodeck
aluminum
350 block. Where are you at engine wise?

Mike Kimball
SR #044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
rickhm@mindspring.com
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 6:25 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: RE: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR


Scott,

Thanks for the reply. It is a little hard to describe what I did in
words.
A picture is really worth a thousand words. I would be happy to provide
if
interested. Although taking a picture of this might be a real challenge!

Imagine you are looking at the tail from the right side. There are 2
rivet
lines that hold the two flanges for the sub-assembly the tail spring
attaches two. Of course there are 2 other rivet lines on the left side as
well. As you look at these rivet lines there is a rivet line running for
and aft that holds the wrap around the bottom of the tail. If you have
X-ray vision you would see an angle running "away from you" along the
bottom
of the sub-assembly forward of the side the tail spring attaches to. This
is the "standard" design.

In my addition I added a 4-6" piece of 2" angle (flange on the angle is 2"
long) that runs forward of the sub-assembly. It attaches to the
sub-assembly by 2 bolts. These bolts would appear to run up and down as
viewed from the right (or left side) and connect one flange of my addition
to the flange of the angle that runs along the bottom (away from you)
described above. The angle attaches to the skin. So with your xray
vision
you would see one flange attached to the skin and running forward and the
other flange facing away from you. The skin now has an additional 2 rows
of
rivets in it above the rivet line where the corner wrap attaches.


Clear as mud? I know what you mean about taking stuff apart and
"enhancing
the design." Some of the time I do this as well. I am sure you have had
the experience of seeing something that your more comfortable enhancing.
One area where I did this is along the side of the fus up front. Recall
the
door posts skins and the skin that goes forward from the door post to the
firewall. I put an additional .040 2024-T3 layer over these to strenghten
the entire front end. Since I'm using a V8 engine I felt the extra 10 lbs
was worth the peace of mind. I don't understand why they didn't make this
one piece in the first place?

Thanks for the feedback.

Rick Muller
SR70

-------Original Message-------
From: Scott & Leere' Aldrich <flynski@mwutah.com>
Sent: 05/01/03 05:29 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR
Correction - The one piece tail stinger/stab bracket was welded aluminum
not
4130.

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Scott & Leere' Aldrich
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 2:00 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR


Rick, all the ones I have seen have been the second hole up.

I can't imagine the piece warping under just the load of the empty
fuselage?? However, we did add doublers with an L that picks up the
flanges
on both sides, both front and back. MAMs was cracking on the flanges. Did
they tell anybody?? No.

What does your 4 inch angle tie into? The flanges on the fuselage sides?

I have seen one that has made the entire assembly out of welded 4130. He
needed a wider bracket for the tail stinger as he is upping that also.
May
be the way to go. I am getting good at taking stuff apart that I have
already completed so may do that later...

Scott
Moose #174

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
rickhm@mindspring.com
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 3:53 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR


This weekend I was stringing cable for the rudder. I noticed that where
th
e tail wheel spring (the long pipe) attaches something was not right.
Upon
closer inspection I noticed that horizontal piece (Left side of Fus to
Rig
ht side) had bowed/warped under the minimal weight of the empty fus. This
was largly my mistake which I quickly corrected. But it got me looking
clo
sely and thinking. Under shock load, like that of the tail bouncing, the
f
orce is transfred into this horzontal member consisting of a buildup of
sev
eral pieces. My tail is attached to the second hole from the BOTTOM of
the
bracket. I must admit there has been lots of email on where this goes to
get the top of the tail "level" and mine is still not level (no engine
yet)
. I was not comfortable that the shock load wouldn't eventually crack the
flanges where the horizontal piece attaches to the side skin. I installed
4" of angle to transfer the load from the horizontal piece to the skin.
Th
e 4" angle runs parallel lengthwise toward the front of the fus.

Has anyone else looked at this and been concerned? Within general
reasonab
le tolerance, all the SR's should be about the same with respect to the
tai
l spring (pipe) and the levelness of the top of the tail wheel. Where is
e
veryone else seeing their tail attach, i.e. which hole?

Rick
Muller
SR70


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Mike Kimball

V8 PSRU discussion

Post by Mike Kimball » Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:59 pm

It's hard to tell from the picture but the PSRU you directed me to looks
like it has a major disadvantage with regard to installation on a Super
Rebel. There doesn't look like there is much distance between the crank
axis and the output axis where the prop bolts on. This will put the top of
your engine somewhere in the middle of your windshield (exaggeration but a
problem nonetheless). I'm looking for PSRUs with at least 7 inches of
separation. I don't think anything less will work. John Worden's
installation with the Geshwender PSRU has 7 inches if I'm not mistaken, and
he still has a bump on the top of the cowl to accommodate the top of the
engine. You are focusing on the engine mount problem with good reason. But
I think the most important decision to make with regard to a V8 installation
is the PSRU. I like helical gear drives because they are robust, have a
long history of use in turboprops, and have a provision for driving a prop
governer. But they are VERY expensive. Right around $10,000! I have heard
belts are nice because they have a desireable dampening affect and are
relatively inexpensive, but do not provide for a prop governer. I think
belts are the noisiest of the lot. I don't know much about the HI-VO chain
that John uses in the Geshwender. It's price falls between belts and gear
drives, and I think it does have a provision for driving a prop governer.
Can you fill us in on the characterisitcs of the chain drive John?

Mike Kimball
SR#044

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rickhm at home" <Rickhm@mindspring.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2003 2:43 AM
Subject: RE: Another V8 Super Rebel?

You have some great support people up there. I have spent some time in
Alaske climbing Denali and down in the St. Elias range. I was always
impressed with the people I met, and there knowledge base. Please keep me
updated on your progress. I do understand the model you are using for
engine design and service. I must admit that I am not overwhelmed with
how
MAM has done some things with respect to their serviceability. Riveting
inspection plates struck me as a all out dumb idea. It is true that an
auto fuel injection system does add a little complexity. I did have to do
some reading to gain an understanding. I also have a buddy that races
cars, mostly Honda civics'. I don't recall the class, but he has won the
national title several times. His average life before tear down is about
20 hours. He and I discussed at length buy Vs build. There are clear
advantages to both. I too was very interested in NW Aero's offering of a
full up engine. But that is now old news. I did find a place that sells
the full engine test run
(http://www.advanceadapters.com/acrobat/enginfo.pdf ). There cost is
$6400. THE GM "Kit Engine" is $5700 and does not come with the
accessories, so $6400 isn't a bad price given the include the accessories
and test run the engine. Regarding Engine mount. I have not done the
hard
look and I need to regarding the mount points on a standard V8 small block
and the LS1. I am very interested in your progress here. After all, the
engine mount is a very key part of the system! Another site you should
check out regarding PSRU is
http://www.ec-securehost.com/Stumpjumpe ... gines.html It
is designed for an airboat. These guys put lots more load on a prop that
we will. Imagine doing a 360 on a dime! The cost is $2500. I know there
are others that are using this in aircraft. The down side is its weight
is
69 lbs. I don't know what other PSRU's weigh. I have not talked to
them,
something else on the list.

Thanks for the update!

Rick Muller
SR70

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Kimball [SMTP:mkimball@gci.net]
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2003 12:47 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Another V8 Super Rebel?

There is a local EAA chapter member in town that also has an engineering
business. It's just he and his wife who has a Ph.D. in engineering.
Between the two of them they will do the analysis and he will create a jig
and weld up my engine mount. The good news is that I will then have a jig
for creating more engine mounts. They have done this before for their
WAGAERO 2+2. Cost should be between $1000 and $1500. I don't know if the
jig will help you with the LS1 since it's a completely new block design
but
if it can be used maybe we can use it to build a mount for you. I was
very
interested in the LS1 when Northwest Aero was selling a complete aircraft
conversion including their own PSRU. Then a couple of things changed my
mind. Northwest stopped selling engines and I didn't put in a fuel
return.
I also became more and more convinced that I wanted the simplest system I
could design, with repair in the field at least a possibility. Once I'm
on
floats I could be just about anywhere up here in Alaska where there won't
be
a convenient parts department. Also, I want to be able to work on
anything
on my airplane and I'm not knowledgeable about electronic fuel injection
systems. I mentioned this philosophy to Robin Dyck, MAM's pilot, and he
said, "Heck, why have a fuel pump at all. Just go with gravity feed and
you
have nothing to fail with fuel delivery to a carburetor."

I'm meeting with a friend who's an expert engine builder on Monday to
start
placing orders to build my engine. Once I know what I'm getting, I'll
pass
it on along with the rationale for each component. I will tell you that
the
engine I'm building will produce an honest 400-425 horsepower and will
cost
a mere $12,000 or so including all accessories.

Mike Kimball
SR #044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Rickhm at home
Sent: Friday, May 02, 2003 5:26 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Another V8 Super Rebel?


I am planning on using an LS1. It will likely be more expensive than
purchasing an aluminum block and building an engine up, but my knowledge
base is not overwhelming when it comes to engine internals and assembly.
I
must also admit the years of building have got me in a mode where I would
like to fly before my 90th birthday. The LS1 also represents a 3rd
generation of engine development by GM. At the moment the one obstacle I
have not found a solution to is engine mount. I guess everyone that uses
an auto engine faces this. Any suggestions? I would be interested in
hearing about your approach!

Rick Muller
SR70

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Kimball [SMTP:mkimball@gci.net]
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 11:05 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Another V8 Super Rebel?

Hey Rick, I lost track of the fact that you are going with a V8. I am
starting to put together an order for parts starting with a Rodeck
aluminum
350 block. Where are you at engine wise?

Mike Kimball
SR #044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
rickhm@mindspring.com
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 6:25 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: RE: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR


Scott,

Thanks for the reply. It is a little hard to describe what I did in
words.
A picture is really worth a thousand words. I would be happy to provide
if
interested. Although taking a picture of this might be a real challenge!

Imagine you are looking at the tail from the right side. There are 2
rivet
lines that hold the two flanges for the sub-assembly the tail spring
attaches two. Of course there are 2 other rivet lines on the left side as
well. As you look at these rivet lines there is a rivet line running for
and aft that holds the wrap around the bottom of the tail. If you have
X-ray vision you would see an angle running "away from you" along the
bottom
of the sub-assembly forward of the side the tail spring attaches to. This
is the "standard" design.

In my addition I added a 4-6" piece of 2" angle (flange on the angle is 2"
long) that runs forward of the sub-assembly. It attaches to the
sub-assembly by 2 bolts. These bolts would appear to run up and down as
viewed from the right (or left side) and connect one flange of my addition
to the flange of the angle that runs along the bottom (away from you)
described above. The angle attaches to the skin. So with your xray
vision
you would see one flange attached to the skin and running forward and the
other flange facing away from you. The skin now has an additional 2 rows
of
rivets in it above the rivet line where the corner wrap attaches.


Clear as mud? I know what you mean about taking stuff apart and
"enhancing
the design." Some of the time I do this as well. I am sure you have had
the experience of seeing something that your more comfortable enhancing.
One area where I did this is along the side of the fus up front. Recall
the
door posts skins and the skin that goes forward from the door post to the
firewall. I put an additional .040 2024-T3 layer over these to strenghten
the entire front end. Since I'm using a V8 engine I felt the extra 10 lbs
was worth the peace of mind. I don't understand why they didn't make this
one piece in the first place?

Thanks for the feedback.

Rick Muller
SR70

-------Original Message-------
From: Scott & Leere' Aldrich <flynski@mwutah.com>
Sent: 05/01/03 05:29 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR
Correction - The one piece tail stinger/stab bracket was welded aluminum
not
4130.

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Scott & Leere' Aldrich
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 2:00 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR


Rick, all the ones I have seen have been the second hole up.

I can't imagine the piece warping under just the load of the empty
fuselage?? However, we did add doublers with an L that picks up the
flanges
on both sides, both front and back. MAMs was cracking on the flanges. Did
they tell anybody?? No.

What does your 4 inch angle tie into? The flanges on the fuselage sides?

I have seen one that has made the entire assembly out of welded 4130. He
needed a wider bracket for the tail stinger as he is upping that also.
May
be the way to go. I am getting good at taking stuff apart that I have
already completed so may do that later...

Scott
Moose #174

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
rickhm@mindspring.com
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 3:53 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR


This weekend I was stringing cable for the rudder. I noticed that where
th
e tail wheel spring (the long pipe) attaches something was not right.
Upon
closer inspection I noticed that horizontal piece (Left side of Fus to
Rig
ht side) had bowed/warped under the minimal weight of the empty fus. This
was largly my mistake which I quickly corrected. But it got me looking
clo
sely and thinking. Under shock load, like that of the tail bouncing, the
f
orce is transfred into this horzontal member consisting of a buildup of
sev
eral pieces. My tail is attached to the second hole from the BOTTOM of
the
bracket. I must admit there has been lots of email on where this goes to
get the top of the tail "level" and mine is still not level (no engine
yet)
. I was not comfortable that the shock load wouldn't eventually crack the
flanges where the horizontal piece attaches to the side skin. I installed
4" of angle to transfer the load from the horizontal piece to the skin.
Th
e 4" angle runs parallel lengthwise toward the front of the fus.

Has anyone else looked at this and been concerned? Within general
reasonab
le tolerance, all the SR's should be about the same with respect to the
tai
l spring (pipe) and the levelness of the top of the tail wheel. Where is
e
veryone else seeing their tail attach, i.e. which hole?

Rick
Muller
SR70


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Wayne G. O'Shea

V8 PSRU discussion

Post by Wayne G. O'Shea » Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:59 pm

To add to Bob's information here! MARCOTTE also has toll free #
1-888-871-3761 and fax is 1-418-877-3408 email rayfiset@globetrotter.net

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <apat@istar.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2003 9:32 PM
Subject: Re: V8 PSRU discussion

Hi Mike !

You can get a beautiful helical gear planetary re-drive,
with the small gear INSIDE, for best lubrication, from
Guy Marcotte, in Quebec, for about $3,500 CDN (that's
about $1.42 US ;-) ) He makes drive for V-8's up to
about 800 hp. ! Phone (418) 362-2569

.....bobp

--------------------------------orig.----------------------------
At 06:57 AM 5/4/03 +1000, you wrote:
It's hard to tell from the picture but the PSRU you directed me to looks
like it has a major disadvantage with regard to installation on a Super
Rebel. There doesn't look like there is much distance between the crank
axis and the output axis where the prop bolts on. This will put the top
of
your engine somewhere in the middle of your windshield (exaggeration but
a
problem nonetheless). I'm looking for PSRUs with at least 7 inches of
separation. I don't think anything less will work. John Worden's
installation with the Geshwender PSRU has 7 inches if I'm not mistaken,
and
he still has a bump on the top of the cowl to accommodate the top of the
engine. You are focusing on the engine mount problem with good reason.
But
I think the most important decision to make with regard to a V8
installation
is the PSRU. I like helical gear drives because they are robust, have a
long history of use in turboprops, and have a provision for driving a
prop
governer. But they are VERY expensive. Right around $10,000! I have
heard
belts are nice because they have a desireable dampening affect and are
relatively inexpensive, but do not provide for a prop governer. I think
belts are the noisiest of the lot. I don't know much about the HI-VO
chain
that John uses in the Geshwender. It's price falls between belts and
gear
drives, and I think it does have a provision for driving a prop governer.
Can you fill us in on the characterisitcs of the chain drive John?

Mike Kimball
SR#044

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rickhm at home" <Rickhm@mindspring.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2003 2:43 AM
Subject: RE: Another V8 Super Rebel?

You have some great support people up there. I have spent some time in
Alaske climbing Denali and down in the St. Elias range. I was always
impressed with the people I met, and there knowledge base. Please keep
me
updated on your progress. I do understand the model you are using for
engine design and service. I must admit that I am not overwhelmed with
how
MAM has done some things with respect to their serviceability.
Riveting
inspection plates struck me as a all out dumb idea. It is true that an
auto fuel injection system does add a little complexity. I did have to
do
some reading to gain an understanding. I also have a buddy that races
cars, mostly Honda civics'. I don't recall the class, but he has won
the
national title several times. His average life before tear down is
about
20 hours. He and I discussed at length buy Vs build. There are clear
advantages to both. I too was very interested in NW Aero's offering of
a
full up engine. But that is now old news. I did find a place that
sells
the full engine test run
(http://www.advanceadapters.com/acrobat/enginfo.pdf ). There cost is
$6400. THE GM "Kit Engine" is $5700 and does not come with the
accessories, so $6400 isn't a bad price given the include the
accessories
and test run the engine. Regarding Engine mount. I have not done the
hard
look and I need to regarding the mount points on a standard V8 small
block
and the LS1. I am very interested in your progress here. After all,
the
engine mount is a very key part of the system! Another site you should
check out regarding PSRU is
http://www.ec-securehost.com/Stumpjumpe ... gines.html
It
is designed for an airboat. These guys put lots more load on a prop
that
we will. Imagine doing a 360 on a dime! The cost is $2500. I know
there
are others that are using this in aircraft. The down side is its
weight
is
69 lbs. I don't know what other PSRU's weigh. I have not talked to
them,
something else on the list.

Thanks for the update!

Rick Muller
SR70

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Kimball [SMTP:mkimball@gci.net]
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2003 12:47 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Another V8 Super Rebel?

There is a local EAA chapter member in town that also has an
engineering
business. It's just he and his wife who has a Ph.D. in engineering.
Between the two of them they will do the analysis and he will create a
jig
and weld up my engine mount. The good news is that I will then have a
jig
for creating more engine mounts. They have done this before for their
WAGAERO 2+2. Cost should be between $1000 and $1500. I don't know if
the
jig will help you with the LS1 since it's a completely new block design
but
if it can be used maybe we can use it to build a mount for you. I was
very
interested in the LS1 when Northwest Aero was selling a complete
aircraft
conversion including their own PSRU. Then a couple of things changed
my
mind. Northwest stopped selling engines and I didn't put in a fuel
return.
I also became more and more convinced that I wanted the simplest system
I
could design, with repair in the field at least a possibility. Once
I'm
on
floats I could be just about anywhere up here in Alaska where there
won't
be
a convenient parts department. Also, I want to be able to work on
anything
on my airplane and I'm not knowledgeable about electronic fuel
injection
systems. I mentioned this philosophy to Robin Dyck, MAM's pilot, and
he
said, "Heck, why have a fuel pump at all. Just go with gravity feed
and
you
have nothing to fail with fuel delivery to a carburetor."

I'm meeting with a friend who's an expert engine builder on Monday to
start
placing orders to build my engine. Once I know what I'm getting, I'll
pass
it on along with the rationale for each component. I will tell you
that
the
engine I'm building will produce an honest 400-425 horsepower and will
cost
a mere $12,000 or so including all accessories.

Mike Kimball
SR #044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Rickhm at home
Sent: Friday, May 02, 2003 5:26 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Another V8 Super Rebel?


I am planning on using an LS1. It will likely be more expensive than
purchasing an aluminum block and building an engine up, but my
knowledge
base is not overwhelming when it comes to engine internals and
assembly.
I
must also admit the years of building have got me in a mode where I
would
like to fly before my 90th birthday. The LS1 also represents a 3rd
generation of engine development by GM. At the moment the one obstacle
I
have not found a solution to is engine mount. I guess everyone that
uses
an auto engine faces this. Any suggestions? I would be interested in
hearing about your approach!

Rick Muller
SR70

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Kimball [SMTP:mkimball@gci.net]
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 11:05 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Another V8 Super Rebel?

Hey Rick, I lost track of the fact that you are going with a V8. I am
starting to put together an order for parts starting with a Rodeck
aluminum
350 block. Where are you at engine wise?

Mike Kimball
SR #044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
rickhm@mindspring.com
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 6:25 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: RE: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR


Scott,

Thanks for the reply. It is a little hard to describe what I did in
words.
A picture is really worth a thousand words. I would be happy to
provide
if
interested. Although taking a picture of this might be a real
challenge!
Imagine you are looking at the tail from the right side. There are 2
rivet
lines that hold the two flanges for the sub-assembly the tail spring
attaches two. Of course there are 2 other rivet lines on the left side
as
well. As you look at these rivet lines there is a rivet line running
for
and aft that holds the wrap around the bottom of the tail. If you have
X-ray vision you would see an angle running "away from you" along the
bottom
of the sub-assembly forward of the side the tail spring attaches to.
This
is the "standard" design.

In my addition I added a 4-6" piece of 2" angle (flange on the angle is
2"
long) that runs forward of the sub-assembly. It attaches to the
sub-assembly by 2 bolts. These bolts would appear to run up and down
as
viewed from the right (or left side) and connect one flange of my
addition
to the flange of the angle that runs along the bottom (away from you)
described above. The angle attaches to the skin. So with your xray
vision
you would see one flange attached to the skin and running forward and
the
other flange facing away from you. The skin now has an additional 2
rows
of
rivets in it above the rivet line where the corner wrap attaches.


Clear as mud? I know what you mean about taking stuff apart and
"enhancing
the design." Some of the time I do this as well. I am sure you have
had
the experience of seeing something that your more comfortable
enhancing.
One area where I did this is along the side of the fus up front.
Recall
the
door posts skins and the skin that goes forward from the door post to
the
firewall. I put an additional .040 2024-T3 layer over these to
strenghten
the entire front end. Since I'm using a V8 engine I felt the extra 10
lbs
was worth the peace of mind. I don't understand why they didn't make
this
one piece in the first place?

Thanks for the feedback.

Rick Muller
SR70

-------Original Message-------
From: Scott & Leere' Aldrich <flynski@mwutah.com>
Sent: 05/01/03 05:29 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR
aluminum
not
4130.

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Scott & Leere' Aldrich
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 2:00 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR


Rick, all the ones I have seen have been the second hole up.

I can't imagine the piece warping under just the load of the empty
fuselage?? However, we did add doublers with an L that picks up the
flanges
on both sides, both front and back. MAMs was cracking on the flanges.
Did
they tell anybody?? No.

What does your 4 inch angle tie into? The flanges on the fuselage
sides?
I have seen one that has made the entire assembly out of welded 4130.
He
needed a wider bracket for the tail stinger as he is upping that also.
May
be the way to go. I am getting good at taking stuff apart that I have
already completed so may do that later...

Scott
Moose #174

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
rickhm@mindspring.com
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 3:53 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR


This weekend I was stringing cable for the rudder. I noticed that
where
th
e tail wheel spring (the long pipe) attaches something was not right.
Upon
closer inspection I noticed that horizontal piece (Left side of Fus to
Rig
ht side) had bowed/warped under the minimal weight of the empty fus.
This
was largly my mistake which I quickly corrected. But it got me looking
clo
sely and thinking. Under shock load, like that of the tail bouncing,
the
f
orce is transfred into this horzontal member consisting of a buildup of
sev
eral pieces. My tail is attached to the second hole from the BOTTOM of
the
bracket. I must admit there has been lots of email on where this goes
to
get the top of the tail "level" and mine is still not level (no engine
yet)
. I was not comfortable that the shock load wouldn't eventually crack
the
flanges where the horizontal piece attaches to the side skin. I
installed
4" of angle to transfer the load from the horizontal piece to the skin.
Th
e 4" angle runs parallel lengthwise toward the front of the fus.

Has anyone else looked at this and been concerned? Within general
reasonab
le tolerance, all the SR's should be about the same with respect to the
tai
l spring (pipe) and the levelness of the top of the tail wheel. Where
is
e
veryone else seeing their tail attach, i.e. which hole?

Rick
Muller
SR70


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klehman

V8 PSRU discussion

Post by klehman » Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:59 pm

Less than 2" of shaft offset on the Marcotte units.
Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
To add to Bob's information here! MARCOTTE also has toll free #
1-888-871-3761 and fax is 1-418-877-3408 email rayfiset@globetrotter.net

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <apat@istar.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2003 9:32 PM
Subject: Re: V8 PSRU discussion


Hi Mike !

You can get a beautiful helical gear planetary re-drive,
with the small gear INSIDE, for best lubrication, from
Guy Marcotte, in Quebec, for about $3,500 CDN (that's
about $1.42 US ;-) ) He makes drive for V-8's up to
about 800 hp. ! Phone (418) 362-2569

.....bobp

--------------------------------orig.----------------------------
At 06:57 AM 5/4/03 +1000, you wrote:
It's hard to tell from the picture but the PSRU you directed me to looks
like it has a major disadvantage with regard to installation on a Super
Rebel. There doesn't look like there is much distance between the crank
axis and the output axis where the prop bolts on. This will put the top
of
your engine somewhere in the middle of your windshield (exaggeration but
a
problem nonetheless). I'm looking for PSRUs with at least 7 inches of
separation. I don't think anything less will work. John Worden's
installation with the Geshwender PSRU has 7 inches if I'm not mistaken,


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rickhm

V8 PSRU discussion

Post by rickhm » Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:59 pm

Ken,

BIG help. For a Chevy 2" means you will be looking at the back of the engine through the windshield. That won't work.

Rick Muller
SR70
-------Original Message-------
From: klehman@albedo.net
Sent: 05/04/03 08:26 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: V8 PSRU discussion
Less than 2" of shaft offset on the Marcotte units.
Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
To add to Bob's information here! MARCOTTE also has toll free #
1-888-871-3761 and fax is 1-418-877-3408 email rayfiset@globetrotter.net

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <apat@istar.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2003 9:32 PM
Subject: Re: V8 PSRU discussion


Hi Mike !

You can get a beautiful helical gear planetary re-drive,
with the small gear INSIDE, for best lubrication, from
Guy Marcotte, in Quebec, for about $3,500 CDN (that's
about $1.42 US ;-) ) He makes drive for V-8's up to
about 800 hp. ! Phone (418) 362-2569

.....bobp

--------------------------------orig.----------------------------
At 06:57 AM 5/4/03 +1000, you wrote:
It's hard to tell from the picture but the PSRU you directed me to
looks
like it has a major disadvantage with regard to installation on a Super
Rebel. There doesn't look like there is much distance between the
crank
axis and the output axis where the prop bolts on. This will put the
top
of
your engine somewhere in the middle of your windshield (exaggeration
but
a
problem nonetheless). I'm looking for PSRUs with at least 7 inches of
separation. I don't think anything less will work. John Worden's
installation with the Geshwender PSRU has 7 inches if I'm not
mistaken,




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Mike Kimball

V8 PSRU discussion

Post by Mike Kimball » Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:02 pm

I looked into the Marcotte a long time ago and found that there is little or
no offset between the input (crankshaft) and the output (prop). This will
not work for a Chevy V8 as someone else on the list mentioned.

Here are some PSRUs that will work with a V8. One thing to keep in mind
when looking at these drives is how much horsepower they can handle. The
engine I'm building should produce between 400 and 425 HP. Many available
drives aren't designed for that much power. Accessory provisions such as
for a prop governor or vacuum pump would be something else to look for.

Vesta V8, chain drive, $4500: http://www.vestav8.com/
John Worden's Geshwender chain drive, $6500:
http://www.alternate-airpower.com/index.html.
Firewall Forward CAM 500 helical gear drive, $10,975!:
http://www.firewall.ca/main.html.
Northwest Aero belt drive, $3200: http://northwest-aero.com/.
Belted Air Power, belt drive, price not listed: http://www.beltedair.com/.

Here are the details on the Blackhawk helical gear drive. The website
doesn't work so I don't know what their story is. But it was ~$10,000 the
last time I was able to get to the website.
Blackhawk Lightning Corp.
4099 Brick Church Pike
Whites Creek TN
USA 37189
TEL (615) 865-1802
FAX (615) 865-9164
net: http://www.primenet.com/~redrive/
email: redrive@primenet.com

Mike Kimball
SR #044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Bob
Patterson
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2003 5:33 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: V8 PSRU discussion



Hi Mike !

You can get a beautiful helical gear planetary re-drive,
with the small gear INSIDE, for best lubrication, from
Guy Marcotte, in Quebec, for about $3,500 CDN (that's
about $1.42 US ;-) ) He makes drive for V-8's up to
about 800 hp. ! Phone (418) 362-2569

.....bobp

--------------------------------orig.----------------------------
At 06:57 AM 5/4/03 +1000, you wrote:
It's hard to tell from the picture but the PSRU you directed me to looks
like it has a major disadvantage with regard to installation on a Super
Rebel. There doesn't look like there is much distance between the crank
axis and the output axis where the prop bolts on. This will put the top of
your engine somewhere in the middle of your windshield (exaggeration but a
problem nonetheless). I'm looking for PSRUs with at least 7 inches of
separation. I don't think anything less will work. John Worden's
installation with the Geshwender PSRU has 7 inches if I'm not mistaken, and
he still has a bump on the top of the cowl to accommodate the top of the
engine. You are focusing on the engine mount problem with good reason.
But
I think the most important decision to make with regard to a V8
installation
is the PSRU. I like helical gear drives because they are robust, have a
long history of use in turboprops, and have a provision for driving a prop
governer. But they are VERY expensive. Right around $10,000! I have
heard
belts are nice because they have a desireable dampening affect and are
relatively inexpensive, but do not provide for a prop governer. I think
belts are the noisiest of the lot. I don't know much about the HI-VO chain
that John uses in the Geshwender. It's price falls between belts and gear
drives, and I think it does have a provision for driving a prop governer.
Can you fill us in on the characterisitcs of the chain drive John?

Mike Kimball
SR#044

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rickhm at home" <Rickhm@mindspring.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2003 2:43 AM
Subject: RE: Another V8 Super Rebel?

You have some great support people up there. I have spent some time in
Alaske climbing Denali and down in the St. Elias range. I was always
impressed with the people I met, and there knowledge base. Please keep
me
updated on your progress. I do understand the model you are using for
engine design and service. I must admit that I am not overwhelmed with
how
MAM has done some things with respect to their serviceability. Riveting
inspection plates struck me as a all out dumb idea. It is true that an
auto fuel injection system does add a little complexity. I did have to
do
some reading to gain an understanding. I also have a buddy that races
cars, mostly Honda civics'. I don't recall the class, but he has won the
national title several times. His average life before tear down is about
20 hours. He and I discussed at length buy Vs build. There are clear
advantages to both. I too was very interested in NW Aero's offering of a
full up engine. But that is now old news. I did find a place that sells
the full engine test run
(http://www.advanceadapters.com/acrobat/enginfo.pdf ). There cost is
$6400. THE GM "Kit Engine" is $5700 and does not come with the
accessories, so $6400 isn't a bad price given the include the accessories
and test run the engine. Regarding Engine mount. I have not done the
hard
look and I need to regarding the mount points on a standard V8 small
block
and the LS1. I am very interested in your progress here. After all, the
engine mount is a very key part of the system! Another site you should
check out regarding PSRU is
http://www.ec-securehost.com/Stumpjumpe ... gines.html It
is designed for an airboat. These guys put lots more load on a prop that
we will. Imagine doing a 360 on a dime! The cost is $2500. I know
there
are others that are using this in aircraft. The down side is its weight
is
69 lbs. I don't know what other PSRU's weigh. I have not talked to
them,
something else on the list.

Thanks for the update!

Rick Muller
SR70

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Kimball [SMTP:mkimball@gci.net]
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2003 12:47 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Another V8 Super Rebel?

There is a local EAA chapter member in town that also has an engineering
business. It's just he and his wife who has a Ph.D. in engineering.
Between the two of them they will do the analysis and he will create a
jig
and weld up my engine mount. The good news is that I will then have a
jig
for creating more engine mounts. They have done this before for their
WAGAERO 2+2. Cost should be between $1000 and $1500. I don't know if
the
jig will help you with the LS1 since it's a completely new block design
but
if it can be used maybe we can use it to build a mount for you. I was
very
interested in the LS1 when Northwest Aero was selling a complete aircraft
conversion including their own PSRU. Then a couple of things changed my
mind. Northwest stopped selling engines and I didn't put in a fuel
return.
I also became more and more convinced that I wanted the simplest system I
could design, with repair in the field at least a possibility. Once I'm
on
floats I could be just about anywhere up here in Alaska where there won't
be
a convenient parts department. Also, I want to be able to work on
anything
on my airplane and I'm not knowledgeable about electronic fuel injection
systems. I mentioned this philosophy to Robin Dyck, MAM's pilot, and he
said, "Heck, why have a fuel pump at all. Just go with gravity feed and
you
have nothing to fail with fuel delivery to a carburetor."

I'm meeting with a friend who's an expert engine builder on Monday to
start
placing orders to build my engine. Once I know what I'm getting, I'll
pass
it on along with the rationale for each component. I will tell you that
the
engine I'm building will produce an honest 400-425 horsepower and will
cost
a mere $12,000 or so including all accessories.

Mike Kimball
SR #044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Rickhm at home
Sent: Friday, May 02, 2003 5:26 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Another V8 Super Rebel?


I am planning on using an LS1. It will likely be more expensive than
purchasing an aluminum block and building an engine up, but my knowledge
base is not overwhelming when it comes to engine internals and assembly.
I
must also admit the years of building have got me in a mode where I would
like to fly before my 90th birthday. The LS1 also represents a 3rd
generation of engine development by GM. At the moment the one obstacle I
have not found a solution to is engine mount. I guess everyone that uses
an auto engine faces this. Any suggestions? I would be interested in
hearing about your approach!

Rick Muller
SR70

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Kimball [SMTP:mkimball@gci.net]
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 11:05 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Another V8 Super Rebel?

Hey Rick, I lost track of the fact that you are going with a V8. I am
starting to put together an order for parts starting with a Rodeck
aluminum
350 block. Where are you at engine wise?

Mike Kimball
SR #044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
rickhm@mindspring.com
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 6:25 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: RE: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR


Scott,

Thanks for the reply. It is a little hard to describe what I did in
words.
A picture is really worth a thousand words. I would be happy to provide
if
interested. Although taking a picture of this might be a real challenge!

Imagine you are looking at the tail from the right side. There are 2
rivet
lines that hold the two flanges for the sub-assembly the tail spring
attaches two. Of course there are 2 other rivet lines on the left side
as
well. As you look at these rivet lines there is a rivet line running for
and aft that holds the wrap around the bottom of the tail. If you have
X-ray vision you would see an angle running "away from you" along the
bottom
of the sub-assembly forward of the side the tail spring attaches to.
This
is the "standard" design.

In my addition I added a 4-6" piece of 2" angle (flange on the angle is
2"
long) that runs forward of the sub-assembly. It attaches to the
sub-assembly by 2 bolts. These bolts would appear to run up and down as
viewed from the right (or left side) and connect one flange of my
addition
to the flange of the angle that runs along the bottom (away from you)
described above. The angle attaches to the skin. So with your xray
vision
you would see one flange attached to the skin and running forward and the
other flange facing away from you. The skin now has an additional 2 rows
of
rivets in it above the rivet line where the corner wrap attaches.


Clear as mud? I know what you mean about taking stuff apart and
"enhancing
the design." Some of the time I do this as well. I am sure you have had
the experience of seeing something that your more comfortable enhancing.
One area where I did this is along the side of the fus up front. Recall
the
door posts skins and the skin that goes forward from the door post to the
firewall. I put an additional .040 2024-T3 layer over these to
strenghten
the entire front end. Since I'm using a V8 engine I felt the extra 10
lbs
was worth the peace of mind. I don't understand why they didn't make
this
one piece in the first place?

Thanks for the feedback.

Rick Muller
SR70

-------Original Message-------
From: Scott & Leere' Aldrich <flynski@mwutah.com>
Sent: 05/01/03 05:29 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR
Correction - The one piece tail stinger/stab bracket was welded
aluminum
not
4130.

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Scott & Leere' Aldrich
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 2:00 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR


Rick, all the ones I have seen have been the second hole up.

I can't imagine the piece warping under just the load of the empty
fuselage?? However, we did add doublers with an L that picks up the
flanges
on both sides, both front and back. MAMs was cracking on the flanges.
Did
they tell anybody?? No.

What does your 4 inch angle tie into? The flanges on the fuselage sides?

I have seen one that has made the entire assembly out of welded 4130. He
needed a wider bracket for the tail stinger as he is upping that also.
May
be the way to go. I am getting good at taking stuff apart that I have
already completed so may do that later...

Scott
Moose #174

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
rickhm@mindspring.com
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 3:53 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR


This weekend I was stringing cable for the rudder. I noticed that where
th
e tail wheel spring (the long pipe) attaches something was not right.
Upon
closer inspection I noticed that horizontal piece (Left side of Fus to
Rig
ht side) had bowed/warped under the minimal weight of the empty fus.
This
was largly my mistake which I quickly corrected. But it got me looking
clo
sely and thinking. Under shock load, like that of the tail bouncing, the
f
orce is transfred into this horzontal member consisting of a buildup of
sev
eral pieces. My tail is attached to the second hole from the BOTTOM of
the
bracket. I must admit there has been lots of email on where this goes
to
get the top of the tail "level" and mine is still not level (no engine
yet)
. I was not comfortable that the shock load wouldn't eventually crack
the
flanges where the horizontal piece attaches to the side skin. I
installed
4" of angle to transfer the load from the horizontal piece to the skin.
Th
e 4" angle runs parallel lengthwise toward the front of the fus.

Has anyone else looked at this and been concerned? Within general
reasonab
le tolerance, all the SR's should be about the same with respect to the
tai
l spring (pipe) and the levelness of the top of the tail wheel. Where is
e
veryone else seeing their tail attach, i.e. which hole?

Rick
Muller
SR70


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Bob Patterson

V8 PSRU discussion

Post by Bob Patterson » Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:02 pm

Hi Mike !

Hadn't thought about the offset in Marcotte's drive,
but he makes several designs - maybe there's one with more ...
wonder what kind of airplanes people are using his drives in ??

Had a call from Brian Robinson a while ago - he's got several
SeaBees flying with his V-8 conversions....
http://www.v8seabee.com/index.shtml

He tells me he has had many requests to do a COMPLETE
FWF package for the Moose like he has done for the SeaBee -
and he is almost finished the first one !! It should be ready
to install in a Moose here in Ontario next month or so ....
He makes his own re-drive, mounts, etc., and it looks like
a very nice package. Not sure about final costs for the
Moose, but he suggested it would be under $40,000 CDN ...
(that's under 30k US). Still a LOT cheaper than a Lyc. !

I can hear the crying now ..... but there are some of us
who would rather just buy a complete package and go flying,
putting a fairly high value on our time ! (I get $200/hr.
consulting - prefer to do a bit of that than sweating or
freezing in the garage for a couple of years .... ;-) )
Not to slight those who prefer to do it all themselves,
just MH position .... ;-) :-)

....bobp

-----------------------------------orig.------------------------------
At 01:56 PM 5/8/03 -0800, you wrote:
I looked into the Marcotte a long time ago and found that there is little or
no offset between the input (crankshaft) and the output (prop). This will
not work for a Chevy V8 as someone else on the list mentioned.

Here are some PSRUs that will work with a V8. One thing to keep in mind
when looking at these drives is how much horsepower they can handle. The
engine I'm building should produce between 400 and 425 HP. Many available
drives aren't designed for that much power. Accessory provisions such as
for a prop governor or vacuum pump would be something else to look for.

Vesta V8, chain drive, $4500: http://www.vestav8.com/
John Worden's Geshwender chain drive, $6500:
http://www.alternate-airpower.com/index.html.
Firewall Forward CAM 500 helical gear drive, $10,975!:
http://www.firewall.ca/main.html.
Northwest Aero belt drive, $3200: http://northwest-aero.com/.
Belted Air Power, belt drive, price not listed: http://www.beltedair.com/.

Here are the details on the Blackhawk helical gear drive. The website
doesn't work so I don't know what their story is. But it was ~$10,000 the
last time I was able to get to the website.
Blackhawk Lightning Corp.
4099 Brick Church Pike
Whites Creek TN
USA 37189
TEL (615) 865-1802
FAX (615) 865-9164
net: http://www.primenet.com/~redrive/
email: redrive@primenet.com

Mike Kimball
SR #044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Bob
Patterson
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2003 5:33 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: V8 PSRU discussion



Hi Mike !

You can get a beautiful helical gear planetary re-drive,
with the small gear INSIDE, for best lubrication, from
Guy Marcotte, in Quebec, for about $3,500 CDN (that's
about $1.42 US ;-) ) He makes drive for V-8's up to
about 800 hp. ! Phone (418) 362-2569

.....bobp

--------------------------------orig.----------------------------
At 06:57 AM 5/4/03 +1000, you wrote:
It's hard to tell from the picture but the PSRU you directed me to looks
like it has a major disadvantage with regard to installation on a Super
Rebel. There doesn't look like there is much distance between the crank
axis and the output axis where the prop bolts on. This will put the top of
your engine somewhere in the middle of your windshield (exaggeration but a
problem nonetheless). I'm looking for PSRUs with at least 7 inches of
separation. I don't think anything less will work. John Worden's
installation with the Geshwender PSRU has 7 inches if I'm not mistaken, and
he still has a bump on the top of the cowl to accommodate the top of the
engine. You are focusing on the engine mount problem with good reason.
But
I think the most important decision to make with regard to a V8
installation
is the PSRU. I like helical gear drives because they are robust, have a
long history of use in turboprops, and have a provision for driving a prop
governer. But they are VERY expensive. Right around $10,000! I have
heard
belts are nice because they have a desireable dampening affect and are
relatively inexpensive, but do not provide for a prop governer. I think
belts are the noisiest of the lot. I don't know much about the HI-VO chain
that John uses in the Geshwender. It's price falls between belts and gear
drives, and I think it does have a provision for driving a prop governer.
Can you fill us in on the characterisitcs of the chain drive John?

Mike Kimball
SR#044

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rickhm at home" <Rickhm@mindspring.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2003 2:43 AM
Subject: RE: Another V8 Super Rebel?

You have some great support people up there. I have spent some time in
Alaske climbing Denali and down in the St. Elias range. I was always
impressed with the people I met, and there knowledge base. Please keep
me
updated on your progress. I do understand the model you are using for
engine design and service. I must admit that I am not overwhelmed with
how
MAM has done some things with respect to their serviceability. Riveting
inspection plates struck me as a all out dumb idea. It is true that an
auto fuel injection system does add a little complexity. I did have to
do
some reading to gain an understanding. I also have a buddy that races
cars, mostly Honda civics'. I don't recall the class, but he has won the
national title several times. His average life before tear down is about
20 hours. He and I discussed at length buy Vs build. There are clear
advantages to both. I too was very interested in NW Aero's offering of a
full up engine. But that is now old news. I did find a place that sells
the full engine test run
(http://www.advanceadapters.com/acrobat/enginfo.pdf ). There cost is
$6400. THE GM "Kit Engine" is $5700 and does not come with the
accessories, so $6400 isn't a bad price given the include the accessories
and test run the engine. Regarding Engine mount. I have not done the
hard
look and I need to regarding the mount points on a standard V8 small
block
and the LS1. I am very interested in your progress here. After all, the
engine mount is a very key part of the system! Another site you should
check out regarding PSRU is
http://www.ec-securehost.com/Stumpjumpe ... gines.html It
is designed for an airboat. These guys put lots more load on a prop that
we will. Imagine doing a 360 on a dime! The cost is $2500. I know
there
are others that are using this in aircraft. The down side is its weight
is
69 lbs. I don't know what other PSRU's weigh. I have not talked to
them,
something else on the list.

Thanks for the update!

Rick Muller
SR70

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Kimball [SMTP:mkimball@gci.net]
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2003 12:47 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Another V8 Super Rebel?

There is a local EAA chapter member in town that also has an engineering
business. It's just he and his wife who has a Ph.D. in engineering.
Between the two of them they will do the analysis and he will create a
jig
and weld up my engine mount. The good news is that I will then have a
jig
for creating more engine mounts. They have done this before for their
WAGAERO 2+2. Cost should be between $1000 and $1500. I don't know if
the
jig will help you with the LS1 since it's a completely new block design
but
if it can be used maybe we can use it to build a mount for you. I was
very
interested in the LS1 when Northwest Aero was selling a complete aircraft
conversion including their own PSRU. Then a couple of things changed my
mind. Northwest stopped selling engines and I didn't put in a fuel
return.
I also became more and more convinced that I wanted the simplest system I
could design, with repair in the field at least a possibility. Once I'm
on
floats I could be just about anywhere up here in Alaska where there won't
be
a convenient parts department. Also, I want to be able to work on
anything
on my airplane and I'm not knowledgeable about electronic fuel injection
systems. I mentioned this philosophy to Robin Dyck, MAM's pilot, and he
said, "Heck, why have a fuel pump at all. Just go with gravity feed and
you
have nothing to fail with fuel delivery to a carburetor."

I'm meeting with a friend who's an expert engine builder on Monday to
start
placing orders to build my engine. Once I know what I'm getting, I'll
pass
it on along with the rationale for each component. I will tell you that
the
engine I'm building will produce an honest 400-425 horsepower and will
cost
a mere $12,000 or so including all accessories.

Mike Kimball
SR #044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Rickhm at home
Sent: Friday, May 02, 2003 5:26 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Another V8 Super Rebel?


I am planning on using an LS1. It will likely be more expensive than
purchasing an aluminum block and building an engine up, but my knowledge
base is not overwhelming when it comes to engine internals and assembly.
I
must also admit the years of building have got me in a mode where I would
like to fly before my 90th birthday. The LS1 also represents a 3rd
generation of engine development by GM. At the moment the one obstacle I
have not found a solution to is engine mount. I guess everyone that uses
an auto engine faces this. Any suggestions? I would be interested in
hearing about your approach!

Rick Muller
SR70

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Kimball [SMTP:mkimball@gci.net]
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 11:05 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Another V8 Super Rebel?

Hey Rick, I lost track of the fact that you are going with a V8. I am
starting to put together an order for parts starting with a Rodeck
aluminum
350 block. Where are you at engine wise?

Mike Kimball
SR #044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
rickhm@mindspring.com
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 6:25 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: RE: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR


Scott,

Thanks for the reply. It is a little hard to describe what I did in
words.
A picture is really worth a thousand words. I would be happy to provide
if
interested. Although taking a picture of this might be a real challenge!

Imagine you are looking at the tail from the right side. There are 2
rivet
lines that hold the two flanges for the sub-assembly the tail spring
attaches two. Of course there are 2 other rivet lines on the left side
as
well. As you look at these rivet lines there is a rivet line running for
and aft that holds the wrap around the bottom of the tail. If you have
X-ray vision you would see an angle running "away from you" along the
bottom
of the sub-assembly forward of the side the tail spring attaches to.
This
is the "standard" design.

In my addition I added a 4-6" piece of 2" angle (flange on the angle is
2"
long) that runs forward of the sub-assembly. It attaches to the
sub-assembly by 2 bolts. These bolts would appear to run up and down as
viewed from the right (or left side) and connect one flange of my
addition
to the flange of the angle that runs along the bottom (away from you)
described above. The angle attaches to the skin. So with your xray
vision
you would see one flange attached to the skin and running forward and the
other flange facing away from you. The skin now has an additional 2 rows
of
rivets in it above the rivet line where the corner wrap attaches.


Clear as mud? I know what you mean about taking stuff apart and
"enhancing
the design." Some of the time I do this as well. I am sure you have had
the experience of seeing something that your more comfortable enhancing.
One area where I did this is along the side of the fus up front. Recall
the
door posts skins and the skin that goes forward from the door post to the
firewall. I put an additional .040 2024-T3 layer over these to
strenghten
the entire front end. Since I'm using a V8 engine I felt the extra 10
lbs
was worth the peace of mind. I don't understand why they didn't make
this
one piece in the first place?

Thanks for the feedback.

Rick Muller
SR70

-------Original Message-------
From: Scott & Leere' Aldrich <flynski@mwutah.com>
Sent: 05/01/03 05:29 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR
aluminum
not
4130.

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Scott & Leere' Aldrich
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 2:00 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR


Rick, all the ones I have seen have been the second hole up.

I can't imagine the piece warping under just the load of the empty
fuselage?? However, we did add doublers with an L that picks up the
flanges
on both sides, both front and back. MAMs was cracking on the flanges.
Did
they tell anybody?? No.

What does your 4 inch angle tie into? The flanges on the fuselage sides?

I have seen one that has made the entire assembly out of welded 4130. He
needed a wider bracket for the tail stinger as he is upping that also.
May
be the way to go. I am getting good at taking stuff apart that I have
already completed so may do that later...

Scott
Moose #174

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
rickhm@mindspring.com
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 3:53 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR


This weekend I was stringing cable for the rudder. I noticed that where
th
e tail wheel spring (the long pipe) attaches something was not right.
Upon
closer inspection I noticed that horizontal piece (Left side of Fus to
Rig
ht side) had bowed/warped under the minimal weight of the empty fus.
This
was largly my mistake which I quickly corrected. But it got me looking
clo
sely and thinking. Under shock load, like that of the tail bouncing, the
f
orce is transfred into this horzontal member consisting of a buildup of
sev
eral pieces. My tail is attached to the second hole from the BOTTOM of
the
bracket. I must admit there has been lots of email on where this goes
to
get the top of the tail "level" and mine is still not level (no engine
yet)
. I was not comfortable that the shock load wouldn't eventually crack
the
flanges where the horizontal piece attaches to the side skin. I
installed
4" of angle to transfer the load from the horizontal piece to the skin.
Th
e 4" angle runs parallel lengthwise toward the front of the fus.

Has anyone else looked at this and been concerned? Within general
reasonab
le tolerance, all the SR's should be about the same with respect to the
tai
l spring (pipe) and the levelness of the top of the tail wheel. Where is
e
veryone else seeing their tail attach, i.e. which hole?

Rick
Muller
SR70


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Mike Kimball

V8 PSRU discussion

Post by Mike Kimball » Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:02 pm

Thanks Bob. I have spoken to Brian Robinson a long time ago. It does sound
like a nice package. However, I am committed to not using an LS1/LS6. I
have no fuel return lines for high pressure fuel injection systems. I also
don't want the complexity and lack of compatibility with standard Chevy V8
blocks. His engine mount and redrive are definitely worth asking about
though. I sent Brian an email. I also completely agree with the notion of
buying a complete package and just go flying. I just haven't found one and
I'm not going to wait any longer. Engine parts are on their way as we
speak.

Mike Kimball
SR #044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Bob
Patterson
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2003 7:24 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: V8 PSRU discussion



Hi Mike !

Hadn't thought about the offset in Marcotte's drive,
but he makes several designs - maybe there's one with more ...
wonder what kind of airplanes people are using his drives in ??

Had a call from Brian Robinson a while ago - he's got several
SeaBees flying with his V-8 conversions....
http://www.v8seabee.com/index.shtml

He tells me he has had many requests to do a COMPLETE
FWF package for the Moose like he has done for the SeaBee -
and he is almost finished the first one !! It should be ready
to install in a Moose here in Ontario next month or so ....
He makes his own re-drive, mounts, etc., and it looks like
a very nice package. Not sure about final costs for the
Moose, but he suggested it would be under $40,000 CDN ...
(that's under 30k US). Still a LOT cheaper than a Lyc. !

I can hear the crying now ..... but there are some of us
who would rather just buy a complete package and go flying,
putting a fairly high value on our time ! (I get $200/hr.
consulting - prefer to do a bit of that than sweating or
freezing in the garage for a couple of years .... ;-) )
Not to slight those who prefer to do it all themselves,
just MH position .... ;-) :-)

....bobp

-----------------------------------orig.------------------------------
At 01:56 PM 5/8/03 -0800, you wrote:
I looked into the Marcotte a long time ago and found that there is little
or
no offset between the input (crankshaft) and the output (prop). This will
not work for a Chevy V8 as someone else on the list mentioned.

Here are some PSRUs that will work with a V8. One thing to keep in mind
when looking at these drives is how much horsepower they can handle. The
engine I'm building should produce between 400 and 425 HP. Many available
drives aren't designed for that much power. Accessory provisions such as
for a prop governor or vacuum pump would be something else to look for.

Vesta V8, chain drive, $4500: http://www.vestav8.com/
John Worden's Geshwender chain drive, $6500:
http://www.alternate-airpower.com/index.html.
Firewall Forward CAM 500 helical gear drive, $10,975!:
http://www.firewall.ca/main.html.
Northwest Aero belt drive, $3200: http://northwest-aero.com/.
Belted Air Power, belt drive, price not listed: http://www.beltedair.com/.

Here are the details on the Blackhawk helical gear drive. The website
doesn't work so I don't know what their story is. But it was ~$10,000 the
last time I was able to get to the website.
Blackhawk Lightning Corp.
4099 Brick Church Pike
Whites Creek TN
USA 37189
TEL (615) 865-1802
FAX (615) 865-9164
net: http://www.primenet.com/~redrive/
email: redrive@primenet.com

Mike Kimball
SR #044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Bob
Patterson
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2003 5:33 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: V8 PSRU discussion



Hi Mike !

You can get a beautiful helical gear planetary re-drive,
with the small gear INSIDE, for best lubrication, from
Guy Marcotte, in Quebec, for about $3,500 CDN (that's
about $1.42 US ;-) ) He makes drive for V-8's up to
about 800 hp. ! Phone (418) 362-2569

.....bobp

--------------------------------orig.----------------------------
At 06:57 AM 5/4/03 +1000, you wrote:
It's hard to tell from the picture but the PSRU you directed me to looks
like it has a major disadvantage with regard to installation on a Super
Rebel. There doesn't look like there is much distance between the crank
axis and the output axis where the prop bolts on. This will put the top
of
your engine somewhere in the middle of your windshield (exaggeration but a
problem nonetheless). I'm looking for PSRUs with at least 7 inches of
separation. I don't think anything less will work. John Worden's
installation with the Geshwender PSRU has 7 inches if I'm not mistaken,
and
he still has a bump on the top of the cowl to accommodate the top of the
engine. You are focusing on the engine mount problem with good reason.
But
I think the most important decision to make with regard to a V8
installation
is the PSRU. I like helical gear drives because they are robust, have a
long history of use in turboprops, and have a provision for driving a prop
governer. But they are VERY expensive. Right around $10,000! I have
heard
belts are nice because they have a desireable dampening affect and are
relatively inexpensive, but do not provide for a prop governer. I think
belts are the noisiest of the lot. I don't know much about the HI-VO
chain
that John uses in the Geshwender. It's price falls between belts and gear
drives, and I think it does have a provision for driving a prop governer.
Can you fill us in on the characterisitcs of the chain drive John?

Mike Kimball
SR#044

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rickhm at home" <Rickhm@mindspring.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2003 2:43 AM
Subject: RE: Another V8 Super Rebel?

You have some great support people up there. I have spent some time in
Alaske climbing Denali and down in the St. Elias range. I was always
impressed with the people I met, and there knowledge base. Please keep
me
updated on your progress. I do understand the model you are using for
engine design and service. I must admit that I am not overwhelmed with
how
MAM has done some things with respect to their serviceability. Riveting
inspection plates struck me as a all out dumb idea. It is true that an
auto fuel injection system does add a little complexity. I did have to
do
some reading to gain an understanding. I also have a buddy that races
cars, mostly Honda civics'. I don't recall the class, but he has won
the
national title several times. His average life before tear down is
about
20 hours. He and I discussed at length buy Vs build. There are clear
advantages to both. I too was very interested in NW Aero's offering of
a
full up engine. But that is now old news. I did find a place that
sells
the full engine test run
(http://www.advanceadapters.com/acrobat/enginfo.pdf ). There cost is
$6400. THE GM "Kit Engine" is $5700 and does not come with the
accessories, so $6400 isn't a bad price given the include the
accessories
and test run the engine. Regarding Engine mount. I have not done the
hard
look and I need to regarding the mount points on a standard V8 small
block
and the LS1. I am very interested in your progress here. After all,
the
engine mount is a very key part of the system! Another site you should
check out regarding PSRU is
http://www.ec-securehost.com/Stumpjumpe ... gines.html
It
is designed for an airboat. These guys put lots more load on a prop
that
we will. Imagine doing a 360 on a dime! The cost is $2500. I know
there
are others that are using this in aircraft. The down side is its weight
is
69 lbs. I don't know what other PSRU's weigh. I have not talked to
them,
something else on the list.

Thanks for the update!

Rick Muller
SR70

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Kimball [SMTP:mkimball@gci.net]
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2003 12:47 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Another V8 Super Rebel?

There is a local EAA chapter member in town that also has an engineering
business. It's just he and his wife who has a Ph.D. in engineering.
Between the two of them they will do the analysis and he will create a
jig
and weld up my engine mount. The good news is that I will then have a
jig
for creating more engine mounts. They have done this before for their
WAGAERO 2+2. Cost should be between $1000 and $1500. I don't know if
the
jig will help you with the LS1 since it's a completely new block design
but
if it can be used maybe we can use it to build a mount for you. I was
very
interested in the LS1 when Northwest Aero was selling a complete
aircraft
conversion including their own PSRU. Then a couple of things changed my
mind. Northwest stopped selling engines and I didn't put in a fuel
return.
I also became more and more convinced that I wanted the simplest system
I
could design, with repair in the field at least a possibility. Once I'm
on
floats I could be just about anywhere up here in Alaska where there
won't
be
a convenient parts department. Also, I want to be able to work on
anything
on my airplane and I'm not knowledgeable about electronic fuel injection
systems. I mentioned this philosophy to Robin Dyck, MAM's pilot, and he
said, "Heck, why have a fuel pump at all. Just go with gravity feed and
you
have nothing to fail with fuel delivery to a carburetor."

I'm meeting with a friend who's an expert engine builder on Monday to
start
placing orders to build my engine. Once I know what I'm getting, I'll
pass
it on along with the rationale for each component. I will tell you that
the
engine I'm building will produce an honest 400-425 horsepower and will
cost
a mere $12,000 or so including all accessories.

Mike Kimball
SR #044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Rickhm at home
Sent: Friday, May 02, 2003 5:26 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Another V8 Super Rebel?


I am planning on using an LS1. It will likely be more expensive than
purchasing an aluminum block and building an engine up, but my knowledge
base is not overwhelming when it comes to engine internals and assembly.
I
must also admit the years of building have got me in a mode where I
would
like to fly before my 90th birthday. The LS1 also represents a 3rd
generation of engine development by GM. At the moment the one obstacle
I
have not found a solution to is engine mount. I guess everyone that
uses
an auto engine faces this. Any suggestions? I would be interested in
hearing about your approach!

Rick Muller
SR70

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Kimball [SMTP:mkimball@gci.net]
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 11:05 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Another V8 Super Rebel?

Hey Rick, I lost track of the fact that you are going with a V8. I am
starting to put together an order for parts starting with a Rodeck
aluminum
350 block. Where are you at engine wise?

Mike Kimball
SR #044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
rickhm@mindspring.com
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 6:25 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: RE: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR


Scott,

Thanks for the reply. It is a little hard to describe what I did in
words.
A picture is really worth a thousand words. I would be happy to provide
if
interested. Although taking a picture of this might be a real challenge!

Imagine you are looking at the tail from the right side. There are 2
rivet
lines that hold the two flanges for the sub-assembly the tail spring
attaches two. Of course there are 2 other rivet lines on the left side
as
well. As you look at these rivet lines there is a rivet line running
for
and aft that holds the wrap around the bottom of the tail. If you have
X-ray vision you would see an angle running "away from you" along the
bottom
of the sub-assembly forward of the side the tail spring attaches to.
This
is the "standard" design.

In my addition I added a 4-6" piece of 2" angle (flange on the angle is
2"
long) that runs forward of the sub-assembly. It attaches to the
sub-assembly by 2 bolts. These bolts would appear to run up and down as
viewed from the right (or left side) and connect one flange of my
addition
to the flange of the angle that runs along the bottom (away from you)
described above. The angle attaches to the skin. So with your xray
vision
you would see one flange attached to the skin and running forward and
the
other flange facing away from you. The skin now has an additional 2
rows
of
rivets in it above the rivet line where the corner wrap attaches.


Clear as mud? I know what you mean about taking stuff apart and
"enhancing
the design." Some of the time I do this as well. I am sure you have
had
the experience of seeing something that your more comfortable enhancing.
One area where I did this is along the side of the fus up front. Recall
the
door posts skins and the skin that goes forward from the door post to
the
firewall. I put an additional .040 2024-T3 layer over these to
strenghten
the entire front end. Since I'm using a V8 engine I felt the extra 10
lbs
was worth the peace of mind. I don't understand why they didn't make
this
one piece in the first place?

Thanks for the feedback.

Rick Muller
SR70

-------Original Message-------
From: Scott & Leere' Aldrich <flynski@mwutah.com>
Sent: 05/01/03 05:29 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR
aluminum
not
4130.

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Scott & Leere' Aldrich
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 2:00 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR


Rick, all the ones I have seen have been the second hole up.

I can't imagine the piece warping under just the load of the empty
fuselage?? However, we did add doublers with an L that picks up the
flanges
on both sides, both front and back. MAMs was cracking on the flanges.
Did
they tell anybody?? No.

What does your 4 inch angle tie into? The flanges on the fuselage
sides?
I have seen one that has made the entire assembly out of welded 4130.
He
needed a wider bracket for the tail stinger as he is upping that also.
May
be the way to go. I am getting good at taking stuff apart that I have
already completed so may do that later...

Scott
Moose #174

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
rickhm@mindspring.com
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 3:53 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR


This weekend I was stringing cable for the rudder. I noticed that where
th
e tail wheel spring (the long pipe) attaches something was not right.
Upon
closer inspection I noticed that horizontal piece (Left side of Fus to
Rig
ht side) had bowed/warped under the minimal weight of the empty fus.
This
was largly my mistake which I quickly corrected. But it got me looking
clo
sely and thinking. Under shock load, like that of the tail bouncing,
the
f
orce is transfred into this horzontal member consisting of a buildup of
sev
eral pieces. My tail is attached to the second hole from the BOTTOM of
the
bracket. I must admit there has been lots of email on where this goes
to
get the top of the tail "level" and mine is still not level (no engine
yet)
. I was not comfortable that the shock load wouldn't eventually crack
the
flanges where the horizontal piece attaches to the side skin. I
installed
4" of angle to transfer the load from the horizontal piece to the skin.
Th
e 4" angle runs parallel lengthwise toward the front of the fus.

Has anyone else looked at this and been concerned? Within general
reasonab
le tolerance, all the SR's should be about the same with respect to the
tai
l spring (pipe) and the levelness of the top of the tail wheel. Where
is
e
veryone else seeing their tail attach, i.e. which hole?

Rick
Muller
SR70


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Reed, Britt/FSC Salt Lake

V8 PSRU discussion

Post by Reed, Britt/FSC Salt Lake » Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:02 pm

I was recently up in Garden Valley Idaho (an hour drive North of Boise and
my favorite kayak country)and my friend suggested that I introduce myself to
this gentleman who was "building some kind of kit airplane" and doing some
"firewall engine thing" - I introduced myself and was very excited to take
a tour of Chucks shop (Diane and Chuck run a bed and breakfast) and look
over his Chevy LS1 on a test stand - 28 hours on the hobbs ( abunch at full
power) - He loves it and can't say enough good about it - 8 coils, no
mixture, no sign of oil leakage or usage, no carbon on the white glove test
on the exhaust straight pipe - no vibration - instant start and quiet at
idle but a bark at power. (I haven't witnessed it run yet - these are Chucks
observations)

Beautiful engine mount (he grew up as a welder)

Ivo Prop Magnum - in flight adjustable

Dual computer (Camaro - reprogrammed by Z-Industries - good article and
phone #'s at
http://www.corvetteforum.com/reviews/vi ... 97&TopicID
=20 )
this part took Chuck several iterations and he learned a lot

and - relevant to this discussion (and to repeat Rick Mullers initial
comment on this thread)

Stinger Gear Drive - I called today to ask the offset and he estimated 5",
69 lbs

http://www.ec-securehost.com/Stumpjumpe ... gines.html
the price is right at $2500
Chuck mentioned that he is totally impressed with the simplicity of
the gear drive - 1 qt of synthetic oil with no cooler - no observable
temperature increase when run (100 degrees ambient) at full power (Check
estimates 350 hp) "you can put your hand on it"

Chuck is looking at offering a firewall forward kit but it will be a ways
off since he wants to get some air time on the system and has to finish his
Wheeler Express - He has all of the components complete but needs to
integrate and finish the panel - He has had to stand down while he is
getting the Bed and Breakfast going and finishing his shop (NICE).

I called to see if he would mind phone inquiries or people stopping in and
he is perfectly comfortable with that.
(http://www.gardenmountainbb.com/). I am sure they would pick up any B&B
customers at the local grass strip thats about a mile away -

http://mapserver.maptech.com/homepage/i ... .067950&lo
n=-115.931507&type=1&zoom=50&BPID=MAP0060030900&CFID=1179061&CFTOKEN=6044718
2


-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Kimball [mailto:mkimball@gci.net]
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2003 2:57 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: V8 PSRU discussion


I looked into the Marcotte a long time ago and found that there is little or
no offset between the input (crankshaft) and the output (prop). This will
not work for a Chevy V8 as someone else on the list mentioned.

Here are some PSRUs that will work with a V8. One thing to keep in mind
when looking at these drives is how much horsepower they can handle. The
engine I'm building should produce between 400 and 425 HP. Many available
drives aren't designed for that much power. Accessory provisions such as
for a prop governor or vacuum pump would be something else to look for.

Vesta V8, chain drive, $4500: http://www.vestav8.com/
John Worden's Geshwender chain drive, $6500:
http://www.alternate-airpower.com/index.html.
Firewall Forward CAM 500 helical gear drive, $10,975!:
http://www.firewall.ca/main.html.
Northwest Aero belt drive, $3200: http://northwest-aero.com/.
Belted Air Power, belt drive, price not listed: http://www.beltedair.com/.

Here are the details on the Blackhawk helical gear drive. The website
doesn't work so I don't know what their story is. But it was ~$10,000 the
last time I was able to get to the website.
Blackhawk Lightning Corp.
4099 Brick Church Pike
Whites Creek TN
USA 37189
TEL (615) 865-1802
FAX (615) 865-9164
net: http://www.primenet.com/~redrive/
email: redrive@primenet.com

Mike Kimball
SR #044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Bob
Patterson
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2003 5:33 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: V8 PSRU discussion



Hi Mike !

You can get a beautiful helical gear planetary re-drive,
with the small gear INSIDE, for best lubrication, from
Guy Marcotte, in Quebec, for about $3,500 CDN (that's
about $1.42 US ;-) ) He makes drive for V-8's up to
about 800 hp. ! Phone (418) 362-2569

.....bobp

--------------------------------orig.----------------------------
At 06:57 AM 5/4/03 +1000, you wrote:
It's hard to tell from the picture but the PSRU you directed me to looks
like it has a major disadvantage with regard to installation on a Super
Rebel. There doesn't look like there is much distance between the crank
axis and the output axis where the prop bolts on. This will put the top of
your engine somewhere in the middle of your windshield (exaggeration but a
problem nonetheless). I'm looking for PSRUs with at least 7 inches of
separation. I don't think anything less will work. John Worden's
installation with the Geshwender PSRU has 7 inches if I'm not mistaken, and
he still has a bump on the top of the cowl to accommodate the top of the
engine. You are focusing on the engine mount problem with good reason.
But
I think the most important decision to make with regard to a V8
installation
is the PSRU. I like helical gear drives because they are robust, have a
long history of use in turboprops, and have a provision for driving a prop
governer. But they are VERY expensive. Right around $10,000! I have
heard
belts are nice because they have a desireable dampening affect and are
relatively inexpensive, but do not provide for a prop governer. I think
belts are the noisiest of the lot. I don't know much about the HI-VO chain
that John uses in the Geshwender. It's price falls between belts and gear
drives, and I think it does have a provision for driving a prop governer.
Can you fill us in on the characterisitcs of the chain drive John?

Mike Kimball
SR#044

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rickhm at home" <Rickhm@mindspring.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2003 2:43 AM
Subject: RE: Another V8 Super Rebel?

You have some great support people up there. I have spent some time in
Alaske climbing Denali and down in the St. Elias range. I was always
impressed with the people I met, and there knowledge base. Please keep
me
updated on your progress. I do understand the model you are using for
engine design and service. I must admit that I am not overwhelmed with
how
MAM has done some things with respect to their serviceability. Riveting
inspection plates struck me as a all out dumb idea. It is true that an
auto fuel injection system does add a little complexity. I did have to
do
some reading to gain an understanding. I also have a buddy that races
cars, mostly Honda civics'. I don't recall the class, but he has won the
national title several times. His average life before tear down is about
20 hours. He and I discussed at length buy Vs build. There are clear
advantages to both. I too was very interested in NW Aero's offering of a
full up engine. But that is now old news. I did find a place that sells
the full engine test run
(http://www.advanceadapters.com/acrobat/enginfo.pdf ). There cost is
$6400. THE GM "Kit Engine" is $5700 and does not come with the
accessories, so $6400 isn't a bad price given the include the accessories
and test run the engine. Regarding Engine mount. I have not done the
hard
look and I need to regarding the mount points on a standard V8 small
block
and the LS1. I am very interested in your progress here. After all, the
engine mount is a very key part of the system! Another site you should
check out regarding PSRU is
http://www.ec-securehost.com/Stumpjumpe ... gines.html It
is designed for an airboat. These guys put lots more load on a prop that
we will. Imagine doing a 360 on a dime! The cost is $2500. I know
there
are others that are using this in aircraft. The down side is its weight
is
69 lbs. I don't know what other PSRU's weigh. I have not talked to
them,
something else on the list.

Thanks for the update!

Rick Muller
SR70

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Kimball [SMTP:mkimball@gci.net]
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2003 12:47 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Another V8 Super Rebel?

There is a local EAA chapter member in town that also has an engineering
business. It's just he and his wife who has a Ph.D. in engineering.
Between the two of them they will do the analysis and he will create a
jig
and weld up my engine mount. The good news is that I will then have a
jig
for creating more engine mounts. They have done this before for their
WAGAERO 2+2. Cost should be between $1000 and $1500. I don't know if
the
jig will help you with the LS1 since it's a completely new block design
but
if it can be used maybe we can use it to build a mount for you. I was
very
interested in the LS1 when Northwest Aero was selling a complete aircraft
conversion including their own PSRU. Then a couple of things changed my
mind. Northwest stopped selling engines and I didn't put in a fuel
return.
I also became more and more convinced that I wanted the simplest system I
could design, with repair in the field at least a possibility. Once I'm
on
floats I could be just about anywhere up here in Alaska where there won't
be
a convenient parts department. Also, I want to be able to work on
anything
on my airplane and I'm not knowledgeable about electronic fuel injection
systems. I mentioned this philosophy to Robin Dyck, MAM's pilot, and he
said, "Heck, why have a fuel pump at all. Just go with gravity feed and
you
have nothing to fail with fuel delivery to a carburetor."

I'm meeting with a friend who's an expert engine builder on Monday to
start
placing orders to build my engine. Once I know what I'm getting, I'll
pass
it on along with the rationale for each component. I will tell you that
the
engine I'm building will produce an honest 400-425 horsepower and will
cost
a mere $12,000 or so including all accessories.

Mike Kimball
SR #044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Rickhm at home
Sent: Friday, May 02, 2003 5:26 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Another V8 Super Rebel?


I am planning on using an LS1. It will likely be more expensive than
purchasing an aluminum block and building an engine up, but my knowledge
base is not overwhelming when it comes to engine internals and assembly.
I
must also admit the years of building have got me in a mode where I would
like to fly before my 90th birthday. The LS1 also represents a 3rd
generation of engine development by GM. At the moment the one obstacle I
have not found a solution to is engine mount. I guess everyone that uses
an auto engine faces this. Any suggestions? I would be interested in
hearing about your approach!

Rick Muller
SR70

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Kimball [SMTP:mkimball@gci.net]
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 11:05 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Another V8 Super Rebel?

Hey Rick, I lost track of the fact that you are going with a V8. I am
starting to put together an order for parts starting with a Rodeck
aluminum
350 block. Where are you at engine wise?

Mike Kimball
SR #044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
rickhm@mindspring.com
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 6:25 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: RE: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR


Scott,

Thanks for the reply. It is a little hard to describe what I did in
words.
A picture is really worth a thousand words. I would be happy to provide
if
interested. Although taking a picture of this might be a real challenge!

Imagine you are looking at the tail from the right side. There are 2
rivet
lines that hold the two flanges for the sub-assembly the tail spring
attaches two. Of course there are 2 other rivet lines on the left side
as
well. As you look at these rivet lines there is a rivet line running for
and aft that holds the wrap around the bottom of the tail. If you have
X-ray vision you would see an angle running "away from you" along the
bottom
of the sub-assembly forward of the side the tail spring attaches to.
This
is the "standard" design.

In my addition I added a 4-6" piece of 2" angle (flange on the angle is
2"
long) that runs forward of the sub-assembly. It attaches to the
sub-assembly by 2 bolts. These bolts would appear to run up and down as
viewed from the right (or left side) and connect one flange of my
addition
to the flange of the angle that runs along the bottom (away from you)
described above. The angle attaches to the skin. So with your xray
vision
you would see one flange attached to the skin and running forward and the
other flange facing away from you. The skin now has an additional 2 rows
of
rivets in it above the rivet line where the corner wrap attaches.


Clear as mud? I know what you mean about taking stuff apart and
"enhancing
the design." Some of the time I do this as well. I am sure you have had
the experience of seeing something that your more comfortable enhancing.
One area where I did this is along the side of the fus up front. Recall
the
door posts skins and the skin that goes forward from the door post to the
firewall. I put an additional .040 2024-T3 layer over these to
strenghten
the entire front end. Since I'm using a V8 engine I felt the extra 10
lbs
was worth the peace of mind. I don't understand why they didn't make
this
one piece in the first place?

Thanks for the feedback.

Rick Muller
SR70

-------Original Message-------
From: Scott & Leere' Aldrich <flynski@mwutah.com>
Sent: 05/01/03 05:29 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR
Correction - The one piece tail stinger/stab bracket was welded
aluminum
not
4130.

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Scott & Leere' Aldrich
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 2:00 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR


Rick, all the ones I have seen have been the second hole up.

I can't imagine the piece warping under just the load of the empty
fuselage?? However, we did add doublers with an L that picks up the
flanges
on both sides, both front and back. MAMs was cracking on the flanges.
Did
they tell anybody?? No.

What does your 4 inch angle tie into? The flanges on the fuselage sides?

I have seen one that has made the entire assembly out of welded 4130. He
needed a wider bracket for the tail stinger as he is upping that also.
May
be the way to go. I am getting good at taking stuff apart that I have
already completed so may do that later...

Scott
Moose #174

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
rickhm@mindspring.com
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 3:53 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Tail Wheel Attach Point on SR


This weekend I was stringing cable for the rudder. I noticed that where
th
e tail wheel spring (the long pipe) attaches something was not right.
Upon
closer inspection I noticed that horizontal piece (Left side of Fus to
Rig
ht side) had bowed/warped under the minimal weight of the empty fus.
This
was largly my mistake which I quickly corrected. But it got me looking
clo
sely and thinking. Under shock load, like that of the tail bouncing, the
f
orce is transfred into this horzontal member consisting of a buildup of
sev
eral pieces. My tail is attached to the second hole from the BOTTOM of
the
bracket. I must admit there has been lots of email on where this goes
to
get the top of the tail "level" and mine is still not level (no engine
yet)
. I was not comfortable that the shock load wouldn't eventually crack
the
flanges where the horizontal piece attaches to the side skin. I
installed
4" of angle to transfer the load from the horizontal piece to the skin.
Th
e 4" angle runs parallel lengthwise toward the front of the fus.

Has anyone else looked at this and been concerned? Within general
reasonab
le tolerance, all the SR's should be about the same with respect to the
tai
l spring (pipe) and the levelness of the top of the tail wheel. Where is
e
veryone else seeing their tail attach, i.e. which hole?

Rick
Muller
SR70




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Bob Patterson

V8 PSRU discussion

Post by Bob Patterson » Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:02 pm

I think Brian is now doing packages for engines other than the
LS1/LS6 ..... he did mention other types. I'm sure there's a way
around the high pressure return lines (header tank, T, ...) - there
are enough people doing this now that someone must have a solution !
(Lycomings don't even have a return line !)
Brian said he'd prefer to sell complete systems, but I know he's
interested in any way to expand his customer base beyond just
SeaBee owners ! ;-)

Please keep us posted on Brian's comments, and I'll pass on
anything I hear from the Moose builder who's getting his engine.
The SeaBee has spectacular performance - I saw him take off from
a grass strip in about 300 feet !!! The engine package is very
neat & tidy - looks solid & well designed. A fringe benefit is
that you get decent heating AND air conditioning !!

.....bobp

------------------------------orig.-----------------------------------
At 11:32 AM 5/9/03 -0800, you wrote:
Thanks Bob. I have spoken to Brian Robinson a long time ago. It does sound
like a nice package. However, I am committed to not using an LS1/LS6. I
have no fuel return lines for high pressure fuel injection systems. I also
don't want the complexity and lack of compatibility with standard Chevy V8
blocks. His engine mount and redrive are definitely worth asking about
though. I sent Brian an email. I also completely agree with the notion of
buying a complete package and just go flying. I just haven't found one and
I'm not going to wait any longer. Engine parts are on their way as we
speak.

Mike Kimball
SR #044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Bob
Patterson
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2003 7:24 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: V8 PSRU discussion



Hi Mike !

Hadn't thought about the offset in Marcotte's drive,
but he makes several designs - maybe there's one with more ...
wonder what kind of airplanes people are using his drives in ??

Had a call from Brian Robinson a while ago - he's got several
SeaBees flying with his V-8 conversions....
http://www.v8seabee.com/index.shtml

He tells me he has had many requests to do a COMPLETE
FWF package for the Moose like he has done for the SeaBee -
and he is almost finished the first one !! It should be ready
to install in a Moose here in Ontario next month or so ....
He makes his own re-drive, mounts, etc., and it looks like
a very nice package. Not sure about final costs for the
Moose, but he suggested it would be under $40,000 CDN ...
(that's under 30k US). Still a LOT cheaper than a Lyc. !

I can hear the crying now ..... but there are some of us
who would rather just buy a complete package and go flying,
putting a fairly high value on our time ! (I get $200/hr.
consulting - prefer to do a bit of that than sweating or
freezing in the garage for a couple of years .... ;-) )
Not to slight those who prefer to do it all themselves,
just MH position .... ;-) :-)

....bobp

-----------------------------------orig.------------------------------
At 01:56 PM 5/8/03 -0800, you wrote:
I looked into the Marcotte a long time ago and found that there is little
or
no offset between the input (crankshaft) and the output (prop). This will
not work for a Chevy V8 as someone else on the list mentioned.

Here are some PSRUs that will work with a V8. One thing to keep in mind
when looking at these drives is how much horsepower they can handle. The
engine I'm building should produce between 400 and 425 HP. Many available
drives aren't designed for that much power. Accessory provisions such as
for a prop governor or vacuum pump would be something else to look for.

Vesta V8, chain drive, $4500: http://www.vestav8.com/
John Worden's Geshwender chain drive, $6500:
http://www.alternate-airpower.com/index.html.
Firewall Forward CAM 500 helical gear drive, $10,975!:
http://www.firewall.ca/main.html.
Northwest Aero belt drive, $3200: http://northwest-aero.com/.
Belted Air Power, belt drive, price not listed: http://www.beltedair.com/.

Here are the details on the Blackhawk helical gear drive. The website
doesn't work so I don't know what their story is. But it was ~$10,000 the
last time I was able to get to the website.
Blackhawk Lightning Corp.
4099 Brick Church Pike
Whites Creek TN
USA 37189
TEL (615) 865-1802
FAX (615) 865-9164
net: http://www.primenet.com/~redrive/
email: redrive@primenet.com

Mike Kimball
SR #044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Bob
Patterson
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2003 5:33 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: V8 PSRU discussion



Hi Mike !

You can get a beautiful helical gear planetary re-drive,
with the small gear INSIDE, for best lubrication, from
Guy Marcotte, in Quebec, for about $3,500 CDN (that's
about $1.42 US ;-) ) He makes drive for V-8's up to
about 800 hp. ! Phone (418) 362-2569

.....bobp

--------------------------------orig.----------------------------
At 06:57 AM 5/4/03 +1000, you wrote:
It's hard to tell from the picture but the PSRU you directed me to looks
like it has a major disadvantage with regard to installation on a Super
Rebel. There doesn't look like there is much distance between the crank
axis and the output axis where the prop bolts on. This will put the top
of
your engine somewhere in the middle of your windshield (exaggeration but a
problem nonetheless). I'm looking for PSRUs with at least 7 inches of
separation. I don't think anything less will work. John Worden's
installation with the Geshwender PSRU has 7 inches if I'm not mistaken,
and
he still has a bump on the top of the cowl to accommodate the top of the
engine. You are focusing on the engine mount problem with good reason.
But
I think the most important decision to make with regard to a V8
installation
is the PSRU. I like helical gear drives because they are robust, have a
long history of use in turboprops, and have a provision for driving a prop
governer. But they are VERY expensive. Right around $10,000! I have
heard
belts are nice because they have a desireable dampening affect and are
relatively inexpensive, but do not provide for a prop governer. I think
belts are the noisiest of the lot. I don't know much about the HI-VO
chain
that John uses in the Geshwender. It's price falls between belts and gear
drives, and I think it does have a provision for driving a prop governer.
Can you fill us in on the characterisitcs of the chain drive John?

Mike Kimball
SR#044

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rickhm at home" <Rickhm@mindspring.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2003 2:43 AM
Subject: RE: Another V8 Super Rebel?

me
how
do
the
about
a
sells
accessories
hard
block
the
It
that
there
is them,
jig
jig
the
but very
aircraft
return.
I
on
won't
anything start pass cost I
would
I
uses
aluminum words. if rivet
as
for
This
2"
addition
the
rows
"enhancing
had
the
strenghten
lbs
this
aluminum
Did
sides?
He
This
the
to
the
installed
is
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rickhm

V8 PSRU discussion

Post by rickhm » Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:02 pm

I read somewhere on the web that many use UN-vented Header tanks that the return line flows back into. Additionally, they recomended a circulation pump between the header tank and the main tanks.

I guess I have a fundemental question. Is the return fuel full of air bubbles? Ken your comments suggest that this is the case. If true, I guess I find this surprising since the fuel is at 50-60 PSI as it hits the jets.

Rick Muller
SR70
-------Original Message-------
From: klehman@albedo.net
Sent: 05/09/03 03:40 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: V8 PSRU discussion
I believe Egenfelner tried (unsuccessfully) to do it with a cooler and a
T ... Bit of a stretch to think that ALL the bubbles will recondense
into unpressurized fuel.

Lots of installations use a small vented header tank with efi
successfully though.

Ken

Bob Patterson wrote:
I think Brian is now doing packages for engines other than the
LS1/LS6 ..... he did mention other types. I'm sure there's a way
around the high pressure return lines (header tank, T, ...) - there
are enough people doing this now that someone must have a solution !
(Lycomings don't even have a return line !)
Brian said he'd prefer to sell complete systems, but I know he's
interested in any way to expand his customer base beyond just
SeaBee owners ! ;-)

Please keep us posted on Brian's comments, and I'll pass on
anything I hear from the Moose builder who's getting his engine.
The SeaBee has spectacular performance - I saw him take off from
a grass strip in about 300 feet !!! The engine package is very
neat & tidy - looks solid & well designed. A fringe benefit is
that you get decent heating AND air conditioning !!

.....bobp






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klehman

V8 PSRU discussion

Post by klehman » Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:02 pm

I believe Egenfelner tried (unsuccessfully) to do it with a cooler and a
T ... Bit of a stretch to think that ALL the bubbles will recondense
into unpressurized fuel.

Lots of installations use a small vented header tank with efi
successfully though.

Ken

Bob Patterson wrote:
I think Brian is now doing packages for engines other than the
LS1/LS6 ..... he did mention other types. I'm sure there's a way
around the high pressure return lines (header tank, T, ...) - there
are enough people doing this now that someone must have a solution !
(Lycomings don't even have a return line !)
Brian said he'd prefer to sell complete systems, but I know he's
interested in any way to expand his customer base beyond just
SeaBee owners ! ;-)

Please keep us posted on Brian's comments, and I'll pass on
anything I hear from the Moose builder who's getting his engine.
The SeaBee has spectacular performance - I saw him take off from
a grass strip in about 300 feet !!! The engine package is very
neat & tidy - looks solid & well designed. A fringe benefit is
that you get decent heating AND air conditioning !!

.....bobp




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Rickhm at home

V8 PSRU discussion

Post by Rickhm at home » Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:02 pm

Ken,

Great feedback. I see your point. I'm not sure exactly how I will address
this, but your suggestion is a very viable option. I may put a pump on
each side before the header tank so the gas is constantly recirculating
between the main tanks and the header. I saw this as a recommendation. Bu
doing this the fuel in the header is constantly cycling with that in the
main. Any bubbles will hopefully be caught and sent back to the main tank.
These recirculation pumps are not high pressure pumps like that of the
fuel injection side, but more traditional pumps.... I still need t think
about this a bit. The part I am still pondering is failure analysis and
what if's.....

Thanks again!

RIck
SR70

-----Original Message-----
From: klehman@albedo.net [SMTP:klehman@albedo.net]
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2003 7:08 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: V8 PSRU discussion

Yes there be bubbles !

I do know of one large (several gallon) unvented header tank
successfully flying in a high wing aircraft but even he has admitted
that he must be on the ground to reliably vent the tank manually and
restablish flow if he runs it dry.

Fuel is a mixture of compounds. When it is heated in the pump and fuel
rail all is fine as it is under increased pressure. However the more
volatile components will form vapour bubbles when the pressure drops
back to ambient across the fuel pressure regulator. With a large enough
and cool enough tank, most will recondense if they are returned to the
tank. High altitude, mogas, and warm fuel from lots of recirculation
won't help them recondense. With no fuel return, too many bubbles may
shorten the fuel pump life and has caused loss of prime as the pump
tries to suck vapour. So yes there can certainly be bubbles but most are
fuel vapour. In turbulence, there might be some entrapped air as well.

With a header tank vent, slugs of air from turbulence, side-slipping, or
low fuel also become a non issue as they can vent back to the cross tank
vent on my installation. I'd highly recommend that if a header tank is
used, it be vented. I think of a carbuerator float bowl as a header. It
separates vapour, provides a small fuel reservoir, and is vented one way
or another.

Ken

rickhm@mindspring.com wrote:
I read somewhere on the web that many use UN-vented Header tanks that the
return line flows back into. Additionally, they recomended a circulation
pump between the header tank and the main tanks.
I guess I have a fundemental question. Is the return fuel full of air
bubbles? Ken your comments suggest that this is the case. If true, I
guess I find this surprising since the fuel is at 50-60 PSI as it hits the
jets.
Rick Muller
SR70


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