wiring

[Don Boardman]

Murray,

You may want to check out AeroElectric. Very good source of information and
materials.

Very helpful for me.

Regards,
Don Boardman
& Partner, Randy Bowers
Super Moose #130 M-14PF 400HP, MT-prop, Aerocet 3500 amphibs, Rome, NY


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[Murray and Carol Cherkas]

Thanks Curt

I'm 75% finished wiring. And yes I used the spade terminals thinking they
were the least likely to come loose from vibration and the easiest to take
off for servicing.Somtimes we do things more right and somtimes not.( how
could I admit to have erred, even if eye was wrong.)
Your 2 cents won't take me to far could you please send a little more next
time.

Good Luck
Murray

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Rebflyer@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2003 5:37 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: wiring


Ok Murry, here's my .02. I also used some hot strip and ground strips, and
a
pretty standard avitation circuit breaker setup. Anything that a screw held
the terminal in place, I used a star washer to prevent it from backing out.
I
used the hot strips to run the multiple tasks off the same breaker, just
eight positions. The grounding strips were very handy and I prefer them to
the spade terminals as I have had several problems with the porcupine spade
terminals that cessna uses, and they are always in the worst possibe
position
to find the problem. It seems the spades loosen over time. I have also found
that loctite under the smaller screws can be a pain in the a-- when you
can't
get that nice straigth shot with the screw driver. Hope that is clear as
mud.
It seems that if you use good acft techniques and similar wiring, the rest
is
a free for all. Just keep it easy to service. IMHO Curt N97MR



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[Rebflyer]

Ok Murry, here's my .02. I also used some hot strip and ground strips, and a
pretty standard avitation circuit breaker setup. Anything that a screw held
the terminal in place, I used a star washer to prevent it from backing out. I
used the hot strips to run the multiple tasks off the same breaker, just
eight positions. The grounding strips were very handy and I prefer them to
the spade terminals as I have had several problems with the porcupine spade
terminals that cessna uses, and they are always in the worst possibe position
to find the problem. It seems the spades loosen over time. I have also found
that loctite under the smaller screws can be a pain in the a-- when you can't
get that nice straigth shot with the screw driver. Hope that is clear as mud.
It seems that if you use good acft techniques and similar wiring, the rest is
a free for all. Just keep it easy to service. IMHO Curt N97MR



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[Al & Deb Paxhia]

Jim,
MAM provided a 5 or 6 conductor cable for the trim servo and that is what I
used. I made permanent connections to the servo and ran a length of wire
down the rear spar to center hinge area where I installed a molex plug. I
used molex plugs on the wiring that goes to wings also, they are low cost
and save time when doing maintenance. If it's not too late, a conduit inside
the horizontal stab would be good.
Inside the floor of the cabin I ran a 1.5" Teflon conduit that I picked up
a Boeing Surplus, this is where most of my wiring runs. The stuff in the
tailcone is suspended with clamps, no conduit.
Al
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Cole" <jcole@rangroup.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 11:06 AM
Subject: Re: wiring

Well I am just about to start work again after a summer of doing other
things. The first thing I want to do is finish the couple little things
on the elevator. To that end I now remember why I stopped. I've mounted
the trim tap motor but need to run the wires. Any comments on any
special wire - the types and gauges that I will need - wire connectors
(solder or connectors?) what plastic conduit and where should I get it?

Thanks Jim
083SR Moose

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[Al & Deb Paxhia]

Jim,
Horizontal stab should have been conduit in elevator. Al
----- Original Message -----
From: "Al & Deb Paxhia" <paxhia2@comcast.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 11:31 AM
Subject: Re: wiring

Jim,
MAM provided a 5 or 6 conductor cable for the trim servo and that is what

I

used. I made permanent connections to the servo and ran a length of wire
down the rear spar to center hinge area where I installed a molex plug. I
used molex plugs on the wiring that goes to wings also, they are low cost
and save time when doing maintenance. If it's not too late, a conduit

inside

the horizontal stab would be good.
Inside the floor of the cabin I ran a 1.5" Teflon conduit that I picked

up

a Boeing Surplus, this is where most of my wiring runs. The stuff in the
tailcone is suspended with clamps, no conduit.
Al
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Cole" <jcole@rangroup.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 11:06 AM
Subject: Re: wiring

Well I am just about to start work again after a summer of doing other
things. The first thing I want to do is finish the couple little things
on the elevator. To that end I now remember why I stopped. I've mounted
the trim tap motor but need to run the wires. Any comments on any
special wire - the types and gauges that I will need - wire connectors
(solder or connectors?) what plastic conduit and where should I get it?

Thanks Jim
083SR Moose

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[Jim Cole]

Well I am just about to start work again after a summer of doing other
things. The first thing I want to do is finish the couple little things
on the elevator. To that end I now remember why I stopped. I've mounted
the trim tap motor but need to run the wires. Any comments on any
special wire - the types and gauges that I will need - wire connectors
(solder or connectors?) what plastic conduit and where should I get it?

Thanks Jim
083SR Moose



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[klehman]

Hi Jim

The servo manufacturer (RAC) sells that 5 conductor tefzel cable for
about a US$ per foot but it is something like 26 gauge which is thinner
than some folks like to use in an airplane. It is on their web site.
Aircraft Spruce also sells it although they call it FEP teflon.

Bob Knuckolls has some photos and diagrams on his Aeroelectric site
using 9 pin computer D sub connectors to wire up these servos. Cheap and
reliable. One of the few places that he says soldering is OK if done
according to his diagrams. Gold plated crimp pins are also available.

Cessna's and such seem to use a lot of the Molex connectors that Al
mentioned. THey are all crimped AFAIK. Probably slightly lower quality
than D subs.

I get the milky white plastic conduit at TSC hardware store. 20 or 30
cents a foot. Not sure but I think it is polyethylene.
I like to run it through those hard plastic snap in bushings at
bulkheads as they require a smaller hole than rubber grommets.
You might want to make the fuselage conduit or grommets large enough to
run ELT wires as well. My ACK ELT uses 4 conductor telephone to wall
jack wire although it is cross wired compared to telephone cables IIRC.

Ken

Jim Cole wrote:

Well I am just about to start work again after a summer of doing other
things. The first thing I want to do is finish the couple little things
on the elevator. To that end I now remember why I stopped. I've mounted
the trim tap motor but need to run the wires. Any comments on any
special wire - the types and gauges that I will need - wire connectors
(solder or connectors?) what plastic conduit and where should I get it?

Thanks Jim
083SR Moose

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[Ralph Baker]

Jim,
I am at the wiring / fuel line point and if I had it to do over would
run both under the floor in plastic conduit arranged so that they could
be replaced in the future without major rework. there are several
conduit options. Van's sells a ribbed non split conduit ( I recommend
against split) and many hardware or marine supply sell a ribbed
lightweight 3/4" bilge drain hose. Always think future maintenance and
add access panels or routing to ease maintenance. Plan way ahead. Do
not put any couplings or wire connections in inaccessible locations.

Ray Allen (bought MAC) has the servo wire if you don't have enough. I
ran a length of 3/8 Alum tube in the elevator such that the trim wire
can be easily replaced if required. once again, plan ahead. The molex
connectors work fine. An alternative is the tiny connectors used by the
R?C airplane folks and available at hobby shops. Do put a disconnect of
some type in.
Ralph Baker
Elite 624E
90% done, 90% to go


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[Ralph Baker]

Jean,
As with every aspect of construction try to think way ahead so you don't
"paint yourself into a corner". An example is using nuplates to attach
wing/aileron hinges. In this case I agree with Wayne that aluminum
tubing conduit is the way to go. Run it in the nose ribs, fasten with
Adel clamps, and be sure you can fish the total number of wires. That
will require a little thought as to wing tip lights, power supply
location and wire routing including out of the wing and how you will get
to and inside the fuselage. I am coming out a hole in the wing bottom
inside the upper strut fairing and down inside the strut and into the
fuselage inside the lower strut fairing.

Always plan for future maintenance and access. For example, disconnects
for the wiring so the wing can be removed. Also, don't forget to plan
for pitot line as well.

We used 1/2" pvc for wing conduit but Wayne has convinced me aluminum
tubing would have been a better choice. Too late now!
Ralph Baker



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[Terry Sack]

What kind of disconnects are you using for the strobe power lines? Where
can they be purchased? Terry Sack (a slow 279R builder)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph Baker" <rebaker@ftc-i.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2005 10:12 PM
Subject: wiring

Jean,
As with every aspect of construction try to think way ahead so you don't
"paint yourself into a corner". An example is using nuplates to attach
wing/aileron hinges. In this case I agree with Wayne that aluminum
tubing conduit is the way to go. Run it in the nose ribs, fasten with
Adel clamps, and be sure you can fish the total number of wires. That
will require a little thought as to wing tip lights, power supply
location and wire routing including out of the wing and how you will get
to and inside the fuselage. I am coming out a hole in the wing bottom
inside the upper strut fairing and down inside the strut and into the
fuselage inside the lower strut fairing.

Always plan for future maintenance and access. For example, disconnects
for the wiring so the wing can be removed. Also, don't forget to plan
for pitot line as well.

We used 1/2" pvc for wing conduit but Wayne has convinced me aluminum
tubing would have been a better choice. Too late now!
Ralph Baker



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[Al Paxhia]

I used Molex connectors. I bought a prototyping kit from Allied Electronics,
the kit has male and female connectors, a crimper and several of each size
from one pin to 12 pin. Cost was about $75. I have found that these work
well for lots of uses on the airplane and around the farm. On the Moose I
use them for the trim servos, lights (panel, nav, strobes, taxi, and
landing) autopilot. Anything that I thought may need maintenance has a
plug.
Al
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Sack" <tasack@gcfn.org>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2005 4:41 PM
Subject: Re: wiring

What kind of disconnects are you using for the strobe power lines? Where
can they be purchased? Terry Sack (a slow 279R builder)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph Baker" <rebaker@ftc-i.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2005 10:12 PM
Subject: wiring

Jean,
As with every aspect of construction try to think way ahead so you don't
"paint yourself into a corner". An example is using nuplates to attach
wing/aileron hinges. In this case I agree with Wayne that aluminum
tubing conduit is the way to go. Run it in the nose ribs, fasten with
Adel clamps, and be sure you can fish the total number of wires. That
will require a little thought as to wing tip lights, power supply
location and wire routing including out of the wing and how you will get
to and inside the fuselage. I am coming out a hole in the wing bottom
inside the upper strut fairing and down inside the strut and into the
fuselage inside the lower strut fairing.

Always plan for future maintenance and access. For example, disconnects
for the wiring so the wing can be removed. Also, don't forget to plan
for pitot line as well.

We used 1/2" pvc for wing conduit but Wayne has convinced me aluminum
tubing would have been a better choice. Too late now!
Ralph Baker



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[Al Paxhia]

I forgot to mention that I pot the wires with Shoe Goo...Al
----- Original Message -----
From: "Al Paxhia" <paxhia2@comcast.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2005 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: wiring

I used Molex connectors. I bought a prototyping kit from Allied
Electronics,
the kit has male and female connectors, a crimper and several of each size
from one pin to 12 pin. Cost was about $75. I have found that these work
well for lots of uses on the airplane and around the farm. On the Moose I
use them for the trim servos, lights (panel, nav, strobes, taxi, and
landing) autopilot. Anything that I thought may need maintenance has a
plug.
Al
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Sack" <tasack@gcfn.org>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2005 4:41 PM
Subject: Re: wiring

What kind of disconnects are you using for the strobe power lines? Where
can they be purchased? Terry Sack (a slow 279R builder)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph Baker" <rebaker@ftc-i.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2005 10:12 PM
Subject: wiring

Jean,
As with every aspect of construction try to think way ahead so you don't
"paint yourself into a corner". An example is using nuplates to attach
wing/aileron hinges. In this case I agree with Wayne that aluminum
tubing conduit is the way to go. Run it in the nose ribs, fasten with
Adel clamps, and be sure you can fish the total number of wires. That
will require a little thought as to wing tip lights, power supply
location and wire routing including out of the wing and how you will get
to and inside the fuselage. I am coming out a hole in the wing bottom
inside the upper strut fairing and down inside the strut and into the
fuselage inside the lower strut fairing.

Always plan for future maintenance and access. For example, disconnects
for the wiring so the wing can be removed. Also, don't forget to plan
for pitot line as well.

We used 1/2" pvc for wing conduit but Wayne has convinced me aluminum
tubing would have been a better choice. Too late now!
Ralph Baker



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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Isn't that great stuff...it even fixes my running shoes when the soles come
off ! LOL

----- Original Message -----
From: "Al Paxhia" <paxhia2@comcast.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2005 8:39 PM
Subject: Re: wiring

I forgot to mention that I pot the wires with Shoe Goo...Al
----- Original Message -----
From: "Al Paxhia" <paxhia2@comcast.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2005 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: wiring

I used Molex connectors. I bought a prototyping kit from Allied
Electronics,
the kit has male and female connectors, a crimper and several of each

size

from one pin to 12 pin. Cost was about $75. I have found that these

work

well for lots of uses on the airplane and around the farm. On the Moose

I

use them for the trim servos, lights (panel, nav, strobes, taxi, and
landing) autopilot. Anything that I thought may need maintenance has a
plug.
Al
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Sack" <tasack@gcfn.org>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2005 4:41 PM
Subject: Re: wiring

What kind of disconnects are you using for the strobe power lines?

Where

can they be purchased? Terry Sack (a slow 279R builder)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph Baker" <rebaker@ftc-i.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2005 10:12 PM
Subject: wiring

don't

attach

get

disconnects

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[Kim Kimball]

I am hoping to finish the wiring that must pass through the firewall this weekend. I wonder if there are any no-nos in grouping certain types of wires. I've got power, electronic ignition, IVO prop control and sensor wires, and engine gauge sensor wires that need to pass through the firewall. Can all of these types of wires be grouped in the same feedthrough?

Mike




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[Alan Hepburn]

I'd keep the electronic ignition low tension wires away from everything else
for interference reasons, then I'd have dedicated holes for the
starter/battery/alternator wires. Everything else can go together.

Al Hepburn





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