1800 floats

Rebflyer · Post by **Rebflyer** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:56 pm

Hi Wayne,
The keelrub sounds like a good idea, again! As all my ops begin on
pavement, and eventually end up there, I'm sure I'm going to need it. On that
line though, I have no sign of rubbing yet, and in comparsion in my eye to a
set of straight edo's and wippline amphibs I can oggle, it seem that the
slope from the step to the tail is slightly more than those two. While
installing the floats originally we rocked the tail down to see the angle of
attack. It was way higher than I have ever flared! I have found when
grounding the tail on a beach that I was really glad I trimed the water
rudders to follow the angle of the float bottoms. With slight power for
momentum I can still make a 180 turn in 16-18 kt wind. I'm sure the keel rub
will be a great addition for tail grounding. What great fun!
On that note I'm waiting not so patiently for Mon am so I can get my
kidney stone removed. They cant do the stone blasting this time so I gotta
get cut. With that out of the way I can get Angus' stol kit finished and
unground my self! Life without flying sucks!!!
Anyway, thanks again for the tip Wayne.
And keep at it everyone, it's worth it!!! Curt N97MR

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Wayne G. O'Shea · Post by **Wayne G. O'Shea** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:56 pm

Good luck with the surgery Curt! I have to go back in some day again myself
to redo the umbilical hernia they screwed up a year ago last fall (that only
held for 10 months).

The keels on the floats I just rebuilt had one tail area that was about
2thou from being worn through and the other had been lightly scuffed. These
have been around for a while and were factory built/flown and then ended up
on Bob P's FOKM that I now own twice (after selling to another guy and
buying back!). Someone through this time frame over flared at least a couple
times (wasn't Bob!!?). I doesn't take much to wear down alum on pavement.
One gear up landing on the step area keel strips, of the Pegastol on Zenair
1150's I work on, wore the 1/4" wear strip down to 1/16"!

Good luck and good health!
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <Rebflyer@aol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2003 1:42 PM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats

Hi Wayne,
The keelrub sounds like a good idea, again! As all my ops begin on
pavement, and eventually end up there, I'm sure I'm going to need it. On

that

line though, I have no sign of rubbing yet, and in comparsion in my eye to

a

set of straight edo's and wippline amphibs I can oggle, it seem that the
slope from the step to the tail is slightly more than those two. While
installing the floats originally we rocked the tail down to see the angle

of

attack. It was way higher than I have ever flared! I have found when
grounding the tail on a beach that I was really glad I trimed the water
rudders to follow the angle of the float bottoms. With slight power for
momentum I can still make a 180 turn in 16-18 kt wind. I'm sure the keel

rub

will be a great addition for tail grounding. What great fun!
On that note I'm waiting not so patiently for Mon am so I can get my
kidney stone removed. They cant do the stone blasting this time so I gotta
get cut. With that out of the way I can get Angus' stol kit finished and
unground my self! Life without flying sucks!!!
Anyway, thanks again for the tip Wayne.
And keep at it everyone, it's worth it!!! Curt N97MR

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Rebflyer · Post by **Rebflyer** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:56 pm

Thanks Wayne,
In looking at different keel strips, the wear from grounding nose in
is pretty impressive. It all seems to be in a 16 or 18" area under the bow
swoop, just before the flat area. it was full thickness prior to and after
but about 3/4 gone in that area. I'm just wondering out loud about how long
it will be before I have to replace mine. Soon I hope! that means lots of
flying!
I'll be in touch in a week or less. Curt

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Drew Dalgleish · Post by **Drew Dalgleish** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:56 pm

Good info Thanks Wayne. I suspect that the murphy floats were designed to
be amphibs from the start and then offered as straight floats. So all that
was removed was the wheels and retract assembly leaving a very strong
straight float. Edo and Wip started as straight floats and needed a lot of
beefing up when turned into amphibs.
Drew

At 01:26 PM 4/20/2003 -0400, you wrote:

Steve et all!

Weight of 1800 straight floats I have here are as follows (these have the
.020 side skins).
Each PAINTED float = 78lbs x 2 = 156lb
Spreader bar 8.5lb x 2 = 17lbs
Mounting gear that have steps etc = 27lbs
X cables and all attach hardware including the fuselage attach bolts = 6lbs
Total weight of installation = 206lbs
Landing gear removal weight from a Rebel when you install the floats is
approximately 50lbs if you have the bungees and MAM tail wheel. +4lbs more
if you have a Scott 3200 +6lbs more if you have my die springs instead of
bungees +approximately another 8 lbs if you have the Cessna style leaf gear.

FYI, My "stretched" amphibs weigh 118lbs/float for a total installed weight
of 286lbs. Pretty darn good considering they weighed 277lb when I removed
them as 1500's so I only added approximately 9 lbs to them, making them 21"
longer! Also nice to see that the amphibs are only 80lbs more than
straights, as in the certified world this "differental" number goes through
the roof!

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2003 11:28 AM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats

Steve, I think I meant 1650's! They are hollow at the step area are they
not, without a bulkhead here?? However, maybe I'm thinking the wrong
floats
that I looked in as 1850 still rings a bell in my head. Maybe they were
older Whips? Did they make an 1850?

As for the weight of a set of MAM 1800 straight floats and mounting gear,
I
have a nice (approx 20hr TT) set sitting in the hanger that are currently
seperated from each other, the spreader bars and mounting gear. If I can
get
my two girls to help me later today I will weight them all up and give you
at total.

Anyone that is looking for a set of completed and ready to go straight MAM
1800's send me a personal email oifa@irishfield.on.ca and maybe we can
work
out a deal! I was thinking of converting them to amphibs, but considering
the time it took to "simply" stretch a set of 1500 amphibs by 21", to make
them 1800's, I think I'll just wait for my prebuilts to arrive and install
a
set of those to my plane instead!! ;o))

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2003 4:33 PM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats

Hi Wayne and all and thanks for the response to my questions.

I'm not really in love with the EDO's because every time you want to
replace
something, you have to make an appointment with your banker to see if
you
can afford it. 1850's are a series that I have never heard of. The
only
float certified for the 150/152 Cessnas was the 1650A's. The next in
line
was the 2000's. Identical to the 1650's but 18" longer and another bulk
head. I have rebuilt a set of 1650's that had the serial numbers 10029
and
30. EDO says they were the 29th and 30th float in that series that they
build for the Piper family in the 1940's. I rebuilt these about 1997;
roughly 45 years of age. They had no corrision on any of the parts and
none
of the lap joints were chromated. Unknown if they had any salt water
history; I would suspect not. As far as tearing a hole thru 2024, I was
taxing one day while out fishing, not on the step but not at an idle and
hit
a rock, a rough white granite rock. I felt it hit hard and it actually
tiped
the fuse forward. I just headed to the nearest beach expecting to find a
large gash somewhere on the bottom. I found a scuff three to four inches
long just before the second bulk head. Ended up replacing a couple of
rivets
in that location.
The 1650's that I have now weigh 80 lbs a barrel = 160 lbs plus struts
spreaders etc to 205 total. Does anyone have the total weight up to the
fuselage bolts for the straight 1800's?. I see three different weights
quoted by Murphy.
I'm thinking of making a set along the lines of the 1650's but extending
them 10 inches in front of the step plus a bulk head, plus flat deck
which
shud put them in the 1800 range.
Nice to have people to bounce ideas off of!

Steve W

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Drew Dalgleish

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Wayne G. O'Shea · Post by **Wayne G. O'Shea** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:56 pm

Steve, the original MAM 1800 design (the way I put Howard's together in
1997) was all bulkheads .025" / side skins .020" / rear bottoms .025" and
step to nose bottoms .032". Keel strips .063" with a 1/2" wide x 1/4" deep
wear strip attached to the step to nose keel strip.

I know in the last few years that you could order them with side skins at
.025" instead of .020", but not sure if the bottoms where
increased/available one size thicker as well.

Just remember it doesn't seem like much but .020 to .025 is a 25% weight
increase!! .025 to .032 is 28% increase and .032 to .040 is 25% as well. The
bulkheads/extrusions/chines etc are staying the same so hard to do a true
estimate of total float weight increase by going a thickness up on all skins
and if you duplicate to 2024 it weights more than 6061 as well.

Bruce has his prebuilts home (and was nice enough to have a good look at my
two sets at the factory as well to be sure all is well.... THANKS BRUCE!)
maybe the sizing ink is still visible and he can update us on what is being
produced these days or maybe Bob Patterson, being the only authorized
factory sales representative, has some answers to this as well!

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2003 9:25 PM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats

Wayne,
Thanks for the info on the total weight of the 1800's. Even the amphib
weight has me thinking about them again. Nice to have the best of both
worlds! Someone indicated that the newer kits have thicker skins. Any

idea

what the four cover skins are; top and bottom? Two top skins on the EDO

are

.025, .040 (up from .032) front bottom and .032 for the bottom rear? To
your question, the only other float I know of in the 1800 range was 1800's
made by Cap- just an EDO clone except they incorporated a nice spreader
assembly that entered the float like alot of large floats have today. No
outside eyebolts, plates etc.

Steve W.

From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: 1800 floats
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 13:26:49 -0400

Steve et all!

Weight of 1800 straight floats I have here are as follows (these have the
.020 side skins).
Each PAINTED float = 78lbs x 2 = 156lb
Spreader bar 8.5lb x 2 = 17lbs
Mounting gear that have steps etc = 27lbs
X cables and all attach hardware including the fuselage attach bolts =

6lbs

Total weight of installation = 206lbs
Landing gear removal weight from a Rebel when you install the floats is
approximately 50lbs if you have the bungees and MAM tail wheel. +4lbs

more

if you have a Scott 3200 +6lbs more if you have my die springs instead of
bungees +approximately another 8 lbs if you have the Cessna style leaf
gear.

FYI, My "stretched" amphibs weigh 118lbs/float for a total installed

weight

of 286lbs. Pretty darn good considering they weighed 277lb when I removed
them as 1500's so I only added approximately 9 lbs to them, making them

21"

longer! Also nice to see that the amphibs are only 80lbs more than
straights, as in the certified world this "differental" number goes

through

the roof!

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2003 11:28 AM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats

Steve, I think I meant 1650's! They are hollow at the step area are

they

not, without a bulkhead here?? However, maybe I'm thinking the wrong
floats
that I looked in as 1850 still rings a bell in my head. Maybe they

were

older Whips? Did they make an 1850?

As for the weight of a set of MAM 1800 straight floats and mounting
gear,
I
have a nice (approx 20hr TT) set sitting in the hanger that are
currently
seperated from each other, the spreader bars and mounting gear. If I

can

get
my two girls to help me later today I will weight them all up and give
you
at total.

Anyone that is looking for a set of completed and ready to go straight
MAM
1800's send me a personal email oifa@irishfield.on.ca and maybe we can
work
out a deal! I was thinking of converting them to amphibs, but
considering
the time it took to "simply" stretch a set of 1500 amphibs by 21", to
make
them 1800's, I think I'll just wait for my prebuilts to arrive and
install
a
set of those to my plane instead!! ;o))

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2003 4:33 PM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats

replace

if

you
only

in

line
bulk
10029
and
they

1997;

and

none
was
and
hit

actually

tiped

find

a
inches

of

rivets

struts

the
weights
extending
which

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steve whitenect · Post by **steve whitenect** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:56 pm

Wayne,
Thanks for the info on the total weight of the 1800's. Even the amphib
weight has me thinking about them again. Nice to have the best of both
worlds! Someone indicated that the newer kits have thicker skins. Any idea
what the four cover skins are; top and bottom? Two top skins on the EDO are
.025, .040 (up from .032) front bottom and .032 for the bottom rear? To
your question, the only other float I know of in the 1800 range was 1800's
made by Cap- just an EDO clone except they incorporated a nice spreader
assembly that entered the float like alot of large floats have today. No
outside eyebolts, plates etc.

Steve W.

From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: 1800 floats
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 13:26:49 -0400

Steve et all!

Weight of 1800 straight floats I have here are as follows (these have the
.020 side skins).
Each PAINTED float = 78lbs x 2 = 156lb
Spreader bar 8.5lb x 2 = 17lbs
Mounting gear that have steps etc = 27lbs
X cables and all attach hardware including the fuselage attach bolts = 6lbs
Total weight of installation = 206lbs
Landing gear removal weight from a Rebel when you install the floats is
approximately 50lbs if you have the bungees and MAM tail wheel. +4lbs more
if you have a Scott 3200 +6lbs more if you have my die springs instead of
bungees +approximately another 8 lbs if you have the Cessna style leaf
gear.

FYI, My "stretched" amphibs weigh 118lbs/float for a total installed weight
of 286lbs. Pretty darn good considering they weighed 277lb when I removed
them as 1500's so I only added approximately 9 lbs to them, making them 21"
longer! Also nice to see that the amphibs are only 80lbs more than
straights, as in the certified world this "differental" number goes through
the roof!

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2003 11:28 AM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats

Steve, I think I meant 1650's! They are hollow at the step area are they
not, without a bulkhead here?? However, maybe I'm thinking the wrong
floats
that I looked in as 1850 still rings a bell in my head. Maybe they were
older Whips? Did they make an 1850?

As for the weight of a set of MAM 1800 straight floats and mounting
gear,
I
have a nice (approx 20hr TT) set sitting in the hanger that are
currently
seperated from each other, the spreader bars and mounting gear. If I can
get
my two girls to help me later today I will weight them all up and give
you
at total.

Anyone that is looking for a set of completed and ready to go straight
MAM
1800's send me a personal email oifa@irishfield.on.ca and maybe we can
work
out a deal! I was thinking of converting them to amphibs, but
considering
the time it took to "simply" stretch a set of 1500 amphibs by 21", to
make
them 1800's, I think I'll just wait for my prebuilts to arrive and
install
a
set of those to my plane instead!! ;o))

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2003 4:33 PM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats

Hi Wayne and all and thanks for the response to my questions.

I'm not really in love with the EDO's because every time you want to
replace
something, you have to make an appointment with your banker to see if
you
can afford it. 1850's are a series that I have never heard of. The
only
float certified for the 150/152 Cessnas was the 1650A's. The next in
line
was the 2000's. Identical to the 1650's but 18" longer and another
bulk
head. I have rebuilt a set of 1650's that had the serial numbers
10029
and
30. EDO says they were the 29th and 30th float in that series that
they
build for the Piper family in the 1940's. I rebuilt these about 1997;
roughly 45 years of age. They had no corrision on any of the parts and
none
of the lap joints were chromated. Unknown if they had any salt water
history; I would suspect not. As far as tearing a hole thru 2024, I
was
taxing one day while out fishing, not on the step but not at an idle
and
hit
a rock, a rough white granite rock. I felt it hit hard and it actually
tiped
the fuse forward. I just headed to the nearest beach expecting to find
a
large gash somewhere on the bottom. I found a scuff three to four
inches
long just before the second bulk head. Ended up replacing a couple of
rivets
in that location.
The 1650's that I have now weigh 80 lbs a barrel = 160 lbs plus struts
spreaders etc to 205 total. Does anyone have the total weight up to
the
fuselage bolts for the straight 1800's?. I see three different
weights
quoted by Murphy.
I'm thinking of making a set along the lines of the 1650's but
extending
them 10 inches in front of the step plus a bulk head, plus flat deck
which
shud put them in the 1800 range.
Nice to have people to bounce ideas off of!

Steve W

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Legeorgen · Post by **Legeorgen** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:56 pm

Wayne, Steve,

The top (deck) is .040, the sides measured through the inspection wholes
(front and back) . 050 including a doubler. I suspect they are .025 as the
doubler and side skin appear the same width. The bottoms I was able to
measure at the nose gear (as a tiny peace was protruding past the seam) and
they measure . 032. I could not tell at the rear bottom skin.

Cheers,
Bruce 357R

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Wayne G. O'Shea · Post by **Wayne G. O'Shea** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:56 pm

Thanks Bruce, so only the side skins have changed and sounds like everything
else has remained constant. That's fine with me as the weight (or lack of)
is what keeps the Rebel on floats such a wonderful performer and the .025
side skins will stand up a bit better to the docks than the .020's. If you
knock a hole through the bottoms, on a rock, pop off the cover /stick your
Mustang life vests in there and pull the rip cords, then reinstall the lid
and fly home!!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@aol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2003 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats

Wayne, Steve,

The top (deck) is .040, the sides measured through the inspection wholes
(front and back) . 050 including a doubler. I suspect they are .025 as the
doubler and side skin appear the same width. The bottoms I was able to
measure at the nose gear (as a tiny peace was protruding past the seam)

and

they measure . 032. I could not tell at the rear bottom skin.

Cheers,
Bruce 357R

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Walter Klatt · Post by **Walter Klatt** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:56 pm

Bruce, are you sure that your front bottom skins are
only .032? I was down at my hangar today, and did some
measuring with my callipers, and was able to get some
measurements from some edge material. My front bottoms
were .040 and the rears were .032.

It could be, too, that MAM has changed their sizes more
than once on the float skins. Mine were from the 1st
set of pre-builts a couple of years ago. It could also
explain why my net weight increase on my plane was 275+
lbs, not 225 or 250 as I have seen reported by some
others.

Perhaps someone at MAM could offer some explanations.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Wayne G. O'Shea
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2003 5:53 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: 1800 floats

Thanks Bruce, so only the side skins have
changed and sounds like everything
else has remained constant. That's fine with
me as the weight (or lack of)
is what keeps the Rebel on floats such a
wonderful performer and the .025
side skins will stand up a bit better to the
docks than the .020's. If you
knock a hole through the bottoms, on a rock,
pop off the cover /stick your
Mustang life vests in there and pull the rip
cords, then reinstall the lid
and fly home!!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@aol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2003 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: 1800 floats

Wayne, Steve,

The top (deck) is .040, the sides measured
through the inspection wholes
(front and back) . 050 including a
doubler. I suspect they are .025 as the
doubler and side skin appear the same
width. The bottoms I was able to
measure at the nose gear (as a tiny peace
was protruding past the seam)
and
they measure . 032. I could not tell at
the rear bottom skin.
Cheers,
Bruce 357R

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Legeorgen · Post by **Legeorgen** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:56 pm

Walter,

It is possible the front bottom skins could have been .040 and not .032. I
had to measure from a double seam at the front edge that was overhung ever so
slightly. It did dial in at .032 as I measured it.

Bruce 357R

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Walter Klatt · Post by **Walter Klatt** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:56 pm

Yes, they are the 1800 amphibs. I am very happy with
their performance and how the gear and hydraulics work,
but they did weigh a bit more than expected.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
steve whitenect
Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2003 9:59 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: 1800 floats

Walter, are your floats amphibs? 275lbs
would be unacceptable for straights
so they must be.

Steve W.

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steve whitenect · Post by **steve whitenect** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:56 pm

Walter, are your floats amphibs? 275lbs would be unacceptable for straights
so they must be.

Steve W.

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Drew Dalgleish · Post by **Drew Dalgleish** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:11 pm

I'm trying to get as much of my float instal done as I can with the plane
still on wheels. One of the things I'm doing ahead of time is installing
the hydraulic tank but I've run into a problem. On the amphib hydraulic
tank the inlet and outlet are only 1/4". Any suggestions as to connecting a
3/8" rubber hose without having it leak? Or should I just throw it away and
build one out of aluminum and pro-seal?
Drew Dalgleish

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Bob Patterson · Post by **Bob Patterson** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:11 pm

Hi Drew !

Not using the clear plastic tubing supplied ?? ;-)

I had an old 1 qt. EP-430 can for my reservoir, with
soldered-on pipes .... worked ok.

.....bobp

---------------------------------orig.----------------------------
At 01:05 PM 6/17/03 -0400, you wrote:

I'm trying to get as much of my float instal done as I can with the plane
still on wheels. One of the things I'm doing ahead of time is installing
the hydraulic tank but I've run into a problem. On the amphib hydraulic
tank the inlet and outlet are only 1/4". Any suggestions as to connecting a
3/8" rubber hose without having it leak? Or should I just throw it away and
build one out of aluminum and pro-seal?
Drew Dalgleish

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Walter Klatt · Post by **Walter Klatt** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:11 pm

Yup, in my case I used the plastic hose to the top
return inlet. On the bottom, I had to use the 3/8 hose
that attaches to the pump. I just made sure that I used
a small hose clamp that fitted inside the barb of the
inlet and tightened it good. Never had any leaks.
Remember, the reservoir is not under pressure, so less
chance of leaking. I prefer the transparent reservoir,
so that you can always see how much fluid you have in
case you ever do have a leak somewhere in the system.

As for the plastic lines, I have been chided by some
locals here, too, for sticking with them. However,
again I like them because they are transparent,
allowing you to get rid of every last bubble in your
system, without ever having to bleed anything and make
a mess. And I probably saved a few pounds. The only
problem I did have with them initially was making leak
free joints. I solved that by going to an auto shop and
getting different compression rings (not sure what
exactly you call them) and no more problems. I think
they cost about 5 cents each.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Bob
Patterson
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 11:19 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: 1800 floats

Hi Drew !

Not using the clear plastic tubing
supplied ?? ;-)

I had an old 1 qt. EP-430 can for my
reservoir, with
soldered-on pipes .... worked ok.

.....bobp

---------------------------------orig.-------
---------------------
At 01:05 PM 6/17/03 -0400, you wrote:
I'm trying to get as much of my float
instal done as I can with the plane
still on wheels. One of the things I'm
doing ahead of time is installing
the hydraulic tank but I've run into a
problem. On the amphib hydraulic
tank the inlet and outlet are only 1/4".
Any suggestions as to connecting a
3/8" rubber hose without having it leak? Or
should I just throw it away and
build one out of aluminum and pro-seal?
Drew Dalgleish

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