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propeller extension

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Murray and Carol Cherkas

propeller extension

Post by Murray and Carol Cherkas » Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:55 pm

Hi ALL:

Lycosaurus 0-320, Murphy aluminum cowling and nose bowl.
DO I NEED A PROP EXTENSION? How long?

Thanks for the help.

Murray Cherkas
REBEL 505

GETTING THERE






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Murray and Carol Cherkas

propeller extension

Post by Murray and Carol Cherkas » Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:55 pm

Wayne, your vocabulary is so extensive.
Thanks for the help.

Murray

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Wayne G. O'Shea
Sent: Wednesday, April 09, 2003 5:38 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: propeller extension


NOPE!!!!!!!!!!!!

----- Original Message -----
From: "Murray and Carol Cherkas" <cherkas@shaw.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 09, 2003 12:25 AM
Subject: propeller extension

Hi ALL:

Lycosaurus 0-320, Murphy aluminum cowling and nose bowl.
DO I NEED A PROP EXTENSION? How long?

Thanks for the help.

Murray Cherkas
REBEL 505

GETTING THERE






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Wayne G. O'Shea

propeller extension

Post by Wayne G. O'Shea » Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:55 pm

NOPE!!!!!!!!!!!!

----- Original Message -----
From: "Murray and Carol Cherkas" <cherkas@shaw.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 09, 2003 12:25 AM
Subject: propeller extension

Hi ALL:

Lycosaurus 0-320, Murphy aluminum cowling and nose bowl.
DO I NEED A PROP EXTENSION? How long?

Thanks for the help.

Murray Cherkas
REBEL 505

GETTING THERE






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Wayne G. O'Shea

propeller extension

Post by Wayne G. O'Shea » Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:55 pm

Trying to average out the really long bull$h!! emails with some short ones,
to cut down on keyboard time!!! ;o)))

Seriously, if you take about 8 x AN365-1032 or 428 nuts and tape them to
your flywheel face just inboard of the ring gear and then clamp the nose
bowl on top, this will give you the required clearance for motor movement
and you won't need a prop extension in most cases. You can run a 10" spinner
without removing the starter bump in the cowling. If your use a B&C starter
or the Skytec HT you can fill in the bump flush and then you can even run a
13" spinner. If you leave the bump then you need about a 3/4" spacer to
allow a spinner larger than 10"'s to clear the hump.

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Murray and Carol Cherkas" <cherkas@shaw.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 09, 2003 2:28 PM
Subject: RE: propeller extension

Wayne, your vocabulary is so extensive.
Thanks for the help.

Murray

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Wayne G. O'Shea
Sent: Wednesday, April 09, 2003 5:38 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: propeller extension


NOPE!!!!!!!!!!!!

----- Original Message -----
From: "Murray and Carol Cherkas" <cherkas@shaw.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 09, 2003 12:25 AM
Subject: propeller extension

Hi ALL:

Lycosaurus 0-320, Murphy aluminum cowling and nose bowl.
DO I NEED A PROP EXTENSION? How long?

Thanks for the help.

Murray Cherkas
REBEL 505

GETTING THERE






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Wayne G. O'Shea

propeller extension

Post by Wayne G. O'Shea » Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:55 pm

Thought I should clarify that this taping of nuts to the flywheel is to
postion the nose bowl in order to build the cowling assembly frame and
doors.

Of course you take them all off when you are done!! ;o))

Wayne


----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 09, 2003 1:38 PM
Subject: Re: propeller extension

Trying to average out the really long bull$h!! emails with some short
ones,
to cut down on keyboard time!!! ;o)))

Seriously, if you take about 8 x AN365-1032 or 428 nuts and tape them to
your flywheel face just inboard of the ring gear and then clamp the nose
bowl on top, this will give you the required clearance for motor movement
and you won't need a prop extension in most cases. You can run a 10"
spinner
without removing the starter bump in the cowling. If your use a B&C
starter
or the Skytec HT you can fill in the bump flush and then you can even run
a
13" spinner. If you leave the bump then you need about a 3/4" spacer to
allow a spinner larger than 10"'s to clear the hump.

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Murray and Carol Cherkas" <cherkas@shaw.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 09, 2003 2:28 PM
Subject: RE: propeller extension

Wayne, your vocabulary is so extensive.
Thanks for the help.

Murray

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Wayne G. O'Shea
Sent: Wednesday, April 09, 2003 5:38 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: propeller extension


NOPE!!!!!!!!!!!!

----- Original Message -----
From: "Murray and Carol Cherkas" <cherkas@shaw.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 09, 2003 12:25 AM
Subject: propeller extension

Hi ALL:

Lycosaurus 0-320, Murphy aluminum cowling and nose bowl.
DO I NEED A PROP EXTENSION? How long?

Thanks for the help.

Murray Cherkas
REBEL 505

GETTING THERE






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klehman

propeller extension

Post by klehman » Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:55 pm

Any recommendations for the type of resin to use for removing the
starter bump and other modifications to the fibreglass nose bowl? I'm
guessing it's just made of common polyester resin? I may have to make a
new nose bowl for the Subaru but there is still hope that I can get away
with modifying the existing one. :)
Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
Seriously, if you take about 8 x AN365-1032 or 428 nuts and tape them to
your flywheel face just inboard of the ring gear and then clamp the nose
bowl on top, this will give you the required clearance for motor movement
and you won't need a prop extension in most cases. You can run a 10" spinner
without removing the starter bump in the cowling. If your use a B&C starter
or the Skytec HT you can fill in the bump flush and then you can even run a
13" spinner. If you leave the bump then you need about a 3/4" spacer to
allow a spinner larger than 10"'s to clear the hump.

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Bob Patterson

propeller extension

Post by Bob Patterson » Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:55 pm

Surprised you're not using the Rotax 912 cowling - several
succesful Subaru conversions have ... It's a good start, and
has the radiator mounts already done. Some have used it stock,
and others - like Geert, have made it easier to work on...

.....bobp

---------------------------------orig.----------------------------
At 10:36 AM 4/10/03 -0400, you wrote:
Any recommendations for the type of resin to use for removing the
starter bump and other modifications to the fibreglass nose bowl? I'm
guessing it's just made of common polyester resin? I may have to make a
new nose bowl for the Subaru but there is still hope that I can get away
with modifying the existing one. :)
Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
Seriously, if you take about 8 x AN365-1032 or 428 nuts and tape them to
your flywheel face just inboard of the ring gear and then clamp the nose
bowl on top, this will give you the required clearance for motor movement
and you won't need a prop extension in most cases. You can run a 10" spinner
without removing the starter bump in the cowling. If your use a B&C starter
or the Skytec HT you can fill in the bump flush and then you can even run a
13" spinner. If you leave the bump then you need about a 3/4" spacer to
allow a spinner larger than 10"'s to clear the hump.

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Wayne G. O'Shea

propeller extension

Post by Wayne G. O'Shea » Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:55 pm

Anything on the shelf at CTC will work just fine!

----- Original Message -----
From: <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 10, 2003 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: propeller extension

Any recommendations for the type of resin to use for removing the
starter bump and other modifications to the fibreglass nose bowl? I'm
guessing it's just made of common polyester resin? I may have to make a
new nose bowl for the Subaru but there is still hope that I can get away
with modifying the existing one. :)
Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
Seriously, if you take about 8 x AN365-1032 or 428 nuts and tape them to
your flywheel face just inboard of the ring gear and then clamp the nose
bowl on top, this will give you the required clearance for motor
movement
and you won't need a prop extension in most cases. You can run a 10"
spinner
without removing the starter bump in the cowling. If your use a B&C
starter
or the Skytec HT you can fill in the bump flush and then you can even
run a
13" spinner. If you leave the bump then you need about a 3/4" spacer to
allow a spinner larger than 10"'s to clear the hump.

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