landing lights

Mike Davis · Post by **Mike Davis** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 4:20 pm

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Several people have e-mailed me about the landing light kit I installed in
the
wing and asked where I got it. For anyone interested it came from a
gentleman
in Ontario and cost about $90 US. It includes the fixture with adjustment
screws for aiming, a plexiglass lens, instructions and pictures for mounting
in a Murphy (regular or Super seem the same). It does not, of course, have
the wiring, or bulbs (uses two 100 watt GE4509), nor does it include the
"bezel" (or lens retaing rim) though it does show how to make one for the
Rebel. Looks well made and seems to work fine. I mounted in between ribs
14
&15 with little trouble.

It came from Trevor Yaworski
1274 Royal Drive
Burlington, Ont.
L7P 2G4

905 331-9820

Charlie Starr -- Randolph, NJ

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Mike Davis · Post by **Mike Davis** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 4:20 pm

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From: "Charles Skorupa" <chucks@gte.net>
To: "Murphy Rebel" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: landing lights
Date: Sun, 5 Apr 1998 11:27:58 -0700
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Does Trevor have an e-mail address and are there any pictures of the light
installation on the web?

- Chuck Skorupa-
-----Original Message-----
From: CWS1932 <CWS1932@aol.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Saturday, April 04, 1998 5:07 PM
Subject: landing lights

Several people have e-mailed me about the landing light kit I installed in

the

wing and asked where I got it. For anyone interested it came from a

gentleman

in Ontario and cost about $90 US. It includes the fixture with adjustment
screws for aiming, a plexiglass lens, instructions and pictures for

mounting

in a Murphy (regular or Super seem the same). It does not, of course, have
the wiring, or bulbs (uses two 100 watt GE4509), nor does it include the
"bezel" (or lens retaing rim) though it does show how to make one for the
Rebel. Looks well made and seems to work fine. I mounted in between ribs

14

&15 with little trouble.

It came from Trevor Yaworski
1274 Royal Drive
Burlington, Ont.
L7P 2G4

905 331-9820

Charlie Starr -- Randolph, NJ

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Mike Davis · Post by **Mike Davis** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 4:20 pm

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Subject: RE: landing lights
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1998 10:06:13 -0700
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I met Trevor at OSH last year and ordered one from him.

It took about three weeks to get it, but, well worth the wait. Good =
craftsmanship. Fits like it was made for the wing. I paid $90 as well.

Tim

----------
From: CWS1932[SMTP:CWS1932@aol.com]
Reply To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 1998 4:54 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: landing lights

Several people have e-mailed me about the landing light kit I installed =
in the
wing and asked where I got it. For anyone interested it came from a =
gentleman
in Ontario and cost about $90 US. It includes the fixture with =
adjustment
screws for aiming, a plexiglass lens, instructions and pictures for =
mounting
in a Murphy (regular or Super seem the same). It does not, of course, =
have
the wiring, or bulbs (uses two 100 watt GE4509), nor does it include the
"bezel" (or lens retaing rim) though it does show how to make one for =
the
Rebel. Looks well made and seems to work fine. I mounted in between =
ribs 14
&15 with little trouble.

It came from Trevor Yaworski
1274 Royal Drive
Burlington, Ont.
L7P 2G4

905 331-9820

Charlie Starr -- Randolph, NJ=20

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Mike Davis · Post by **Mike Davis** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 4:20 pm

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Hi There

I just bought the kit from Trevor and it does look great. Could you please
tell me though where you get the bezel. I did not notice any info on how to
make one.

Thanks for your comments and help.

Brian from Brampton

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Mike Davis · Post by **Mike Davis** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 4:21 pm

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The landing light Trevor and William make was designed for the Rebel. I
bought one from them well over a year ago now. At the time, I had the
opportunity to have a look at their Rebel and I suggest that you take a good
look at the craftsmanship if you get the chance. They have added
some very nice touches that you will probably also see on mine (when ever I
get it finished).
Philip Craig
Rebel 518

Tim Carter wrote:

I met Trevor at OSH last year and ordered one from him.

It took about three weeks to get it, but, well worth the wait. Good

craftsmanship. Fits like it was made for the wing. I paid $90 as well.

Tim

----------
From: CWS1932[SMTP:CWS1932@aol.com]
Reply To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 1998 4:54 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: landing lights

Several people have e-mailed me about the landing light kit I installed in

the

wing and asked where I got it. For anyone interested it came from a

gentleman

in Ontario and cost about $90 US. It includes the fixture with adjustment
screws for aiming, a plexiglass lens, instructions and pictures for

mounting

in a Murphy (regular or Super seem the same). It does not, of course,

have

the wiring, or bulbs (uses two 100 watt GE4509), nor does it include the
"bezel" (or lens retaing rim) though it does show how to make one for the
Rebel. Looks well made and seems to work fine. I mounted in between ribs

14

&15 with little trouble.

It came from Trevor Yaworski
1274 Royal Drive
Burlington, Ont.
L7P 2G4

905 331-9820

Charlie Starr -- Randolph, NJ

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Peter & Monica · Post by **Peter & Monica** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:48 pm

We are looking to put in our landing lights and are wondering what
thickness of lexan to use? Or should we use plexiglass?

Peter & Monica

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Drew and Jan · Post by **Drew and Jan** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:48 pm

Peter & Monica I used surplus 1/8" lexan that I had because I went to a
formed windshield on my rebel. I made a wood and metal form the same shape
as the leading edge and balanced the piece of lexan on top while it cooked
in the oven. It's hard to get it hot enough to go soft enough to shape
without having bubbles form. I think I tried about 3 times before I was
satisfied. THe lens has held up well in over a years flying although I've
never wired in the landing lights so it's never been heated from inside. I
only installed the lights because it's easy to do before the wings are
closed and much harder after. I drove british cars for a long time and
firmly believe the rumor that mr. Lucas' dying words were "never drive in
the dark" :]
Drew

We are looking to put in our landing lights and are wondering what
thickness of lexan to use? Or should we use plexiglass?

Peter & Monica

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David Ricker · Post by **David Ricker** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:48 pm

Drew

Just a quick note on heat forming Lexan (polycarbonate), you need to dry it
(heat at moderate temperature) for about 24 hours to drive the water out of
it. I don't remember the exact temp but if you speak to plastic stocking
distributors like Laird Plastics or Caddillac or a thermoformer they should be
able to give good numbers. I think it should be something like 150F.

Polycarb is kind of like nylon in that it absorbs moisture so when you heat it
quickly the moisture tries to escape quickly from inside the thickness of the
sheet and forms bubbles. If I am not mistaken this is similar to the bends
that divers experience where the dissolved gasses in the blood stream take a
bit of time to escape otherwise bubbles form.

Hope this is helpful.

Dave R.

Drew and Jan wrote:

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Peter & Monica I used surplus 1/8" lexan that I had because I went to a
formed windshield on my rebel. I made a wood and metal form the same shape
as the leading edge and balanced the piece of lexan on top while it cooked
in the oven. It's hard to get it hot enough to go soft enough to shape
without having bubbles form. I think I tried about 3 times before I was
satisfied. THe lens has held up well in over a years flying although I've
never wired in the landing lights so it's never been heated from inside. I
only installed the lights because it's easy to do before the wings are
closed and much harder after. I drove british cars for a long time and
firmly believe the rumor that mr. Lucas' dying words were "never drive in
the dark" :]
Drew

We are looking to put in our landing lights and are wondering what
thickness of lexan to use? Or should we use plexiglass?

Peter & Monica

-----------------------------------------------------

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--
David A. Ricker P. Eng.
DARTEC Engineering Inc.
Nova Scotia
Canada

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bob.patterson · Post by **bob.patterson** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:48 pm

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From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
Subject: Re: landing lights

Hi Guys !

You could use 1/16" Lexan (or 1/8"). It is easy to form COLD.
The disadvantage is that Lexan, when bent, will eventually form lots
of little cracks and need replacing (could take 4 or 5 years...)
Lexan is really easy to drill & form - treat it like wood or aluminum !
And you can cut it with snips or a hacksaw...

If you go with Plexi, you can make a metal form, cover it with
a towel, & place in a 250' oven for a few minutes, with the Plexi
on top - watch 'til it droops, remove & pull Plexi down over the form,
& hold until firm. If you use 1/8" Plexi, it should last for many
years. You will need a special drill bit & technique for drilling it,
as Plexi cracks easily - it also requires great care to cut.

Being lazy, I'd be tempted to try the Lexan ...

......bobp

----------------------------orig.--------------------------------------
At 06:13 PM 3/26/01 -0500, you wrote:

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We are looking to put in our landing lights and are wondering what
thickness of lexan to use? Or should we use plexiglass?

Peter & Monica

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rebelair · Post by **rebelair** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:48 pm

Hi Folks

I worked for GE for a long time & am a Lexan fan but I would take the extra
trouble to use plexiglas. The problem with Lexan that we all know about is
that it scratches very easily & does not look so good after awhile.

My opinion anyway.

Brian #328R

-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
bob.patterson@canrem.com
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 9:26 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: landing lights

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To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
Subject: Re: landing lights

Hi Guys !

You could use 1/16" Lexan (or 1/8"). It is easy to form COLD.
The disadvantage is that Lexan, when bent, will eventually form lots
of little cracks and need replacing (could take 4 or 5 years...)
Lexan is really easy to drill & form - treat it like wood or aluminum !
And you can cut it with snips or a hacksaw...

If you go with Plexi, you can make a metal form, cover it with
a towel, & place in a 250' oven for a few minutes, with the Plexi
on top - watch 'til it droops, remove & pull Plexi down over the form,
& hold until firm. If you use 1/8" Plexi, it should last for many
years. You will need a special drill bit & technique for drilling it,
as Plexi cracks easily - it also requires great care to cut.

Being lazy, I'd be tempted to try the Lexan ...

......bobp

----------------------------orig.--------------------------------------
At 06:13 PM 3/26/01 -0500, you wrote:

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We are looking to put in our landing lights and are wondering what
thickness of lexan to use? Or should we use plexiglass?

Peter & Monica

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Mike Betti · Post by **Mike Betti** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:16 am

I see some of the group out there is using the wing mounted landing
lights from MAM. Are these light kits the way to go? Are you happy with
the results? Also which wing bay are you putting them in. I plan on
doing both wings.
Thanks,
Mike Betti
771E

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Bob Patterson · Post by **Bob Patterson** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:16 am

Hi Mike !

The MAM wing light kit is excellent quality - but may be a problem
later, if you want to install the McKenzie STOL kit. The leading edge
cuff covers the lights ! :-) ( stealth lighting !! ;-) )

The factory may now supply a landing light kit for the wing tips -
this is ideal. They have one for the old style Moose tips - maybe also
for the new droop tips..... If not, I guess it wouldn't be too hard to
make one up yourself. The new halogen lights are light, inexpensive,
and easy to install !

The lights usually go in the outer rib bay, so the tip is not much
farther out, and a bit more accessible.

.......bobp

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Tuesday 08 March 2005 09:10 pm, Mike Betti wrote:

I see some of the group out there is using the wing mounted landing
lights from MAM. Are these light kits the way to go? Are you happy with
the results? Also which wing bay are you putting them in. I plan on
doing both wings.
Thanks,
Mike Betti
771E

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David Ricker · Post by **David Ricker** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:16 am

Hi Mike

The kits are well done & not too bad to fit, we put one in each wing one
bay from the tip.

Dave

Mike Betti wrote:

I see some of the group out there is using the wing mounted landing
lights from MAM. Are these light kits the way to go? Are you happy with
the results? Also which wing bay are you putting them in. I plan on
doing both wings.
Thanks,
Mike Betti
771E

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David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada

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Jones, Michael · Post by **Jones, Michael** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:16 am

mike

man landing light kits are great, made by fellow not far from me in
burlington ontatio, will save you many house of work, comes with lexan bent
to shape as well

mike#007

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Mike Betti
Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2005 9:11 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Landing lights

I see some of the group out there is using the wing mounted landing
lights from MAM. Are these light kits the way to go? Are you happy with
the results? Also which wing bay are you putting them in. I plan on
doing both wings.
Thanks,
Mike Betti
771E

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Wayne G. O'Shea · Post by **Wayne G. O'Shea** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:16 am

Murphy has kits for both the leading edge and the tip lights. I'm told,
unfortunately, that the droop tip lights are considerably more expensive
than the old style standard tip light kit. This is mainly due to the mfg
having to produce new tooling for the considerably different lens. The
leading edge double light kits are now manufactured in house at MAM. Trevor
Y. used to put them together for MAM, but due to his job requirements etc he
has had to stop production. The only difference between the kit Trevor was
making and MAM's is the lens. MAM says they would have had to significantly
increase the price of the kit in order to cover their cost to have the lens
manufactured for them. Instead they have gone to a slightly lighter gauge of
lexan and the lens is now just wrapped around the leading edge. It's
definitely acceptable and in the long run replacement in the field no longer
requires ordering a manufactured part from MAM, just head down to the
nearest plastic shop / Home Depot and pick up a square foot of Lexan.

Of course there is nothing stopping anyone from making their own tip lights.
I've done plenty of them using both rectangular and round halogen lights.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jones, Michael" <MJones@hatch.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2005 7:38 AM
Subject: RE: Landing lights

mike

man landing light kits are great, made by fellow not far from me in
burlington ontatio, will save you many house of work, comes with lexan

bent

to shape as well

mike#007

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Mike Betti
Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2005 9:11 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Landing lights

I see some of the group out there is using the wing mounted landing
lights from MAM. Are these light kits the way to go? Are you happy with
the results? Also which wing bay are you putting them in. I plan on
doing both wings.
Thanks,
Mike Betti
771E

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