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From: "Lonnie Benson" <lonben@erols.com>
To: "Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: RE; Spring Gear fix
Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 18:40:55 -0500
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Alister:
I have some 2"X2" 6061 bar stock which I plan to use to strengthen the =
carrythroughs where the spring gear saddles are attached. I plan to cut =
an 8" piece on a diagonal that will start 2" in from either end. After =
I trim the ends to match the front carrythroughs I will have two pieces =
that will be 2" on one side and approx. 5 1/4" on the other side. The =
2" side will be slipped into the carrythrough on the rivet side. The 5 =
1/4" side will be against the other side of the carrythrough and will =
help distribute the load. I will do about the same for the rear =
carrythrough. I plan to remove the #3 bolts and replace them with =
longer #4's that will go all the way through both carrythroughs and the =
new pieces made from the bar stock. I'm not sure what I will do if =
anything to secure the slanted end of the new piece to the carrythrough. =
After the new pieces are in place I will drill the holes for the saddle =
bolts.
It will probably be a week before I start to cut metal. I would =
appreciate any comments your or any one else on the list my have =
regarding this proposed fix.=20
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Alister:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have some 2"X2" 6061 bar =
stock which=20
I plan to use to strengthen the carrythroughs where the spring gear =
saddles are=20
attached. I plan to cut an 8" piece on a diagonal that will =
start=20
2" in from either end. After I trim the ends to match the =
front=20
carrythroughs I will have two pieces that will be 2" on one side =
and=20
approx. 5 1/4" on the other side. The 2" side will be =
slipped=20
into the carrythrough on the rivet side. The 5 1/4" side will =
be=20
against the other side of the carrythrough and will help distribute the=20
load. I will do about the same for the rear carrythrough. I =
plan to=20
remove the #3 bolts and replace them with longer #4's that will go all =
the way=20
through both carrythroughs and the new pieces made from the bar =
stock. I'm=20
not sure what I will do if anything to secure the slanted end of the new =
piece=20
to the carrythrough. After the new pieces are in place I will =
drill the=20
holes for the saddle bolts.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2> It will probably be a week =
before I start=20
to cut metal. I would appreciate any comments your or any one else on =
the list=20
my have regarding this proposed fix. </FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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RE; Spring Gear fix
-
Mike Davis
RE; Spring Gear fix
Received: from dialup.voyager.co.nz (ts1p16.net.ashburton.voyager.co.nz
[203.21.25.181]) by host02.net.voyager.co.nz (8.8.8/8.6.12) with ESMTP id
NAA01864 for <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>; Mon, 8 Feb 1999 13:41:57 +1300 (NZDT)
Message-Id: <199902080041.NAA01864@host02.net.voyager.co.nz>
From: "Alister Yeoman" <yeoman@voyager.co.nz>
To: "Murphy Rebel" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: RE; Spring Gear fix
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 13:41:39 +1300
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Lonnie,
I am not sure what you hope to gain by putting the longer insert in to the
carrythrough, it could become just a nuisance when you are attaching the
bottom plates etc. I dont believe it is necessary.
The inserts we are putting in over here are only 2 1/4" long with a filed
taper on the end so we dont create a stress point, all it is, is just a
bullet proof spacer. If I remember correctly the outside measurement of the
spacer was 5 thou over 1 3/4", The radius on the corners of the spacer must
be bigger than on the carrythrough (i.e. there should be a slight gap
between the two to allow the carrythrough to 'flex' a little when the
spacer is fitted.)
Dont try and drill the spacers in place it wont work, mark from the bottom
where the hole is ( and from the side for the AN 3 bolt holes) to be then
drill in a drill press. You can remove the spacers by doing one side at a
time and driving them out with a soft rod from the other side, only when
you are absolutely sure you finished will you fit the lot, there's no
turning back then.
The outside single AN3 bolt may go right to the front surface of the insert
depending on the angle you have cut at the front, mine didn't, I had to
mill a flat surface into the end of the insert half way across.
Remember to make allowances for the 3/16 rivets that hold the bottom plates
on (I over sized some holes so that they could still 'mushroom').
Hope this helps.
Alister
----------
From: Lonnie Benson <lonben@erols.com>
To: Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: RE; Spring Gear fix
Date: Monday, February 08, 1999 12:40 PM
Alister:
I have some 2"X2" 6061 bar stock which I plan to use to strengthen the
carrythroughs where the spring gear saddles are attached. I plan to cut an
8" piece on a diagonal that will start 2" in from either end. After I trim
the ends to match the front carrythroughs I will have two pieces that will
be 2" on one side and approx. 5 1/4" on the other side. The 2" side will
be slipped into the carrythrough on the rivet side. The 5 1/4" side will
be against the other side of the carrythrough and will help distribute the
load. I will do about the same for the rear carrythrough. I plan to
remove the #3 bolts and replace them with longer #4's that will go all the
way through both carrythroughs and the new pieces made from the bar stock.
I'm not sure what I will do if anything to secure the slanted end of the
new piece to the carrythrough. After the new pieces are in place I will
drill the holes for the saddle bolts.
It will probably be a week before I start to cut metal. I would appreciate
any comments your or any one else on the list my have regarding this
proposed fix.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
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Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
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[203.21.25.181]) by host02.net.voyager.co.nz (8.8.8/8.6.12) with ESMTP id
NAA01864 for <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>; Mon, 8 Feb 1999 13:41:57 +1300 (NZDT)
Message-Id: <199902080041.NAA01864@host02.net.voyager.co.nz>
From: "Alister Yeoman" <yeoman@voyager.co.nz>
To: "Murphy Rebel" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: RE; Spring Gear fix
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 13:41:39 +1300
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Lonnie,
I am not sure what you hope to gain by putting the longer insert in to the
carrythrough, it could become just a nuisance when you are attaching the
bottom plates etc. I dont believe it is necessary.
The inserts we are putting in over here are only 2 1/4" long with a filed
taper on the end so we dont create a stress point, all it is, is just a
bullet proof spacer. If I remember correctly the outside measurement of the
spacer was 5 thou over 1 3/4", The radius on the corners of the spacer must
be bigger than on the carrythrough (i.e. there should be a slight gap
between the two to allow the carrythrough to 'flex' a little when the
spacer is fitted.)
Dont try and drill the spacers in place it wont work, mark from the bottom
where the hole is ( and from the side for the AN 3 bolt holes) to be then
drill in a drill press. You can remove the spacers by doing one side at a
time and driving them out with a soft rod from the other side, only when
you are absolutely sure you finished will you fit the lot, there's no
turning back then.
The outside single AN3 bolt may go right to the front surface of the insert
depending on the angle you have cut at the front, mine didn't, I had to
mill a flat surface into the end of the insert half way across.
Remember to make allowances for the 3/16 rivets that hold the bottom plates
on (I over sized some holes so that they could still 'mushroom').
Hope this helps.
Alister
----------
From: Lonnie Benson <lonben@erols.com>
To: Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: RE; Spring Gear fix
Date: Monday, February 08, 1999 12:40 PM
Alister:
I have some 2"X2" 6061 bar stock which I plan to use to strengthen the
carrythroughs where the spring gear saddles are attached. I plan to cut an
8" piece on a diagonal that will start 2" in from either end. After I trim
the ends to match the front carrythroughs I will have two pieces that will
be 2" on one side and approx. 5 1/4" on the other side. The 2" side will
be slipped into the carrythrough on the rivet side. The 5 1/4" side will
be against the other side of the carrythrough and will help distribute the
load. I will do about the same for the rear carrythrough. I plan to
remove the #3 bolts and replace them with longer #4's that will go all the
way through both carrythroughs and the new pieces made from the bar stock.
I'm not sure what I will do if anything to secure the slanted end of the
new piece to the carrythrough. After the new pieces are in place I will
drill the holes for the saddle bolts.
It will probably be a week before I start to cut metal. I would appreciate
any comments your or any one else on the list my have regarding this
proposed fix.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
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-
Mike Davis
RE; Spring Gear fix
Received: from JimsRebel@aol.com
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for <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>; Sun, 7 Feb 1999 19:42:07 +1900 (EST)
From: JimsRebel@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 19:42:07 EST
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
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Lonnie:
I have also been staring at the carrythroughs wondering what to do to.
I also was planning on using bar stock, 4 pieces of 1" by 2" six inches
long, with a
radius to match the inside of the carrythrough with the gear bolts drilled
through the bar stock. The bar stock would be bolted to the carrythrogh
(nuts
on inside).
This would distribute the load down the carrythough and provide a solid path
for the gear bolts.
This only leaves one more problem...the three AN3 bolts. For this I was
planning on using something to fill in this area...more bar stock or just
crush tubes...maybe going to AN4 bolts due to the long length needed.
Also do we still need all the extra sheet metal on the outside of the
aircraft
if the carrythrough is taking the load????
I do need to come up with a plan soon...I was still hoping Murphy would make
something to stuff in the end of the carrythrough instead of a lot of custom
"fixes" by individual builders.
Jim rebel254 JimsRebel@aol.com
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for <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>; Sun, 7 Feb 1999 19:42:07 +1900 (EST)
From: JimsRebel@aol.com
Message-ID: <b3f4f68.36be32df@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 19:42:07 EST
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Subject: Re: RE; Spring Gear fix
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: AOL 3.0 for Windows 95 sub 49
Lonnie:
I have also been staring at the carrythroughs wondering what to do to.
I also was planning on using bar stock, 4 pieces of 1" by 2" six inches
long, with a
radius to match the inside of the carrythrough with the gear bolts drilled
through the bar stock. The bar stock would be bolted to the carrythrogh
(nuts
on inside).
This would distribute the load down the carrythough and provide a solid path
for the gear bolts.
This only leaves one more problem...the three AN3 bolts. For this I was
planning on using something to fill in this area...more bar stock or just
crush tubes...maybe going to AN4 bolts due to the long length needed.
Also do we still need all the extra sheet metal on the outside of the
aircraft
if the carrythrough is taking the load????
I do need to come up with a plan soon...I was still hoping Murphy would make
something to stuff in the end of the carrythrough instead of a lot of custom
"fixes" by individual builders.
Jim rebel254 JimsRebel@aol.com
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