Paint

[Jerry Folkerts]

Well, yesterday I donned the paint suit and full face outside air respirator and crawled in. When I climbed out, I was a mess. My overall objective was to fit all the powder coated control gizmos and then remove them and paint rather than tape and paint around. It worked out really well. There are lots of nooks and crannies and it is very difficult to get in all the corners etc. wearing all that stuff.

Biggus, I used an Australian paint, MetaCryl. A friend had used it on his RV-8 and I was impressed at the lack of overspray. Its a very high solid polyurethane and consequently requires very little pressure and sets up quickly. I set the regulator at 30 psi and only 20 at the gun. I ended up with one run in a corner that was my fault -- simply too much paint. Overall, I'm very happy. I still need to paint the floor, but that's easy as I have it out most of the time.

Best,
Jerry Folkerts

[Rebel541]

G'day Jerry / guys ....................

and HAPPY NOO YEAR too !!!
(it's 0940 - the First of January here now BTW)

I've been trying to track down this new "MetaCryl" stuff ................ and as far as I can see - it's from a mob called "Chemspec" .... in the You Ess Ay ......

Can you read the label of your tins & tell us where it's shown to come from / contact number etc ?!?!?!?!?


I used "Spray Chief" paints - made in South Australia - when I painted R1 (R541) ....and I was VERY pleased - at the time :thumbup:
The scheme was Pearl White - with Candy Apple Red on the nose & tail & striping in between ..... it literally GLOWED in the sunlight !!!

BUT .....

I failed to understand that there was supposed to be a top / separate clear coat OVER the pearl ...... and it faded / went yellowy and dull after a few years :thumbdown:

So ... I'd really like to find out about newer / BETTER paints - available "these days"

[Jerry Folkerts]

Biggus,
Happy New Year as well. ChemSpec is actually a South African Company, based in Durban. It has a US Headquarters as well as one in Australia, in Sydney. Look for the MetaLux brand, its their flagship and easier to Google than MetaCryl. MetaCryl is the new high solids polyurethane that I understand was developed in Australia. Of course, I may be really confused, as the MetaLux distributor in St. Louis is an Australian who married into America.
About the paint, its very reasonably priced and very easy to apply. It is a polyurethane so all the cautions about Isocyanates still apply. It will be another day before I can get back in the shop after it completely cures. Because of the high solids, it atomizes very easily and that minimizes the overspray with a thicker application process -- also takes less paint.
I was introduced to it when a local automotive painter used it on a friends RV-8 in his hangar. I asked him if he covered the floor and he said no, there was little to no overspray. I was immediately impressed, but it took some time to track down the distributor.
Best,
Jerry Folkerts

[snowyriver]

Jerry,

I found the aluminum floor to be very slick, especially when shoes are wet. We ended up using some Randolph Wing Walk paint on it and it worked well. It has a traction compound in it. I also put it on the lower door opening channels because I was constantly hitting it or scraping with boots as I climb in or out and this was trashing the paint.

A plug for Stewart systems waterborne polyurethane paint. I initially used PPG on my plane's interior and it had the paint, catylst, hardner, and something else I can't remember. All of those had to be measured, mixed just right and then there was a fairly short pot life. I also had to borrow a SAR which as you found out is a pain when you're in that tail!

Stewart paint is cheaper than most of those paints($308/gal), only 2 parts to mix, slightly lighter, requires only a charcoal based respirator, and has a 3-4 hr pot life! It's easy to use and gives even the novice painter great results. When you're through painting, go to your utility sink and use warm water and soap to clean everything up. Also, the gun they reccomend using is a Devilbliss FinishLine 4 HVLP unit which sells for $165. For me it is a win, win, win.

Oh, and Happy New Year to all of my fellow builders! Craig

[Jerry Folkerts]

Craig,

Happy New Year. I used Stewart on my Cygnet wings, fabric, glue, primer and all. I did find it very easy to use, although when I sprayed the final color coat, I found it a bit more challenging. I also noted it went on very thin, and was concerned that on the Super Rebel I would encounter issues with runs around rivet heads. When I saw this high solid polyurethane, I decided to give it a try. So far, I'm very happy other than the typical isocyanate issues. That said, properly suited and with my hobby air mask on, it shouldn't be an issue. The hard part is done, the big flat surfaces should be a piece of cake.

Today, I muscled the stab and elevator into place. Still have a few bolts to try and get in -- ugh. I wanted to route my rudder/elevator cables then remove the stab for painting. My shop door is only 10 ft wide, so will need to have it removed to get the fuselage out the door anyway.

Best,
Jerry Folkerts

[snowyriver]

I don't know if you used their new paint. The old paint was very time sensitive i.e. no more than 10 min until next coat. This made it harder to paint; I can't paint a plane in 10 min so you have to break it up, etc. You also had to do many coats (4, I think). This new paint which came out about 2 yrs ago is called Premium Eko Poly. One tack coat and one wet. They also increased the hardness so it could be buffed/rubbed out if desired.

For the record, I've never had a run at a rivet; I seem to get them in odd shaped places like the NACA vent or some inside corner. I've not had many times when there was zero runs!

[bobp]

Looks great, Jerry ! :-)

[DocBaker]

It's almost time to paint the exterior on Rebel 729! I am planning to paint all major pieces separately then assemble. The paint I will use is PPG single stage urethane over PPG epoxy primer. The question I have is: How should I deal with the hinges on the stab/elev and fin/rudder? Since they have a washer/bushing hinge, can the hinge brackets and spar ends be painted or should they be taped off? Painting would seem to help with corrosion prevention, but would add extra thickness and some friction between the washer and spar end.

[irishfield]

For the flaperons Doc.. tape off the bronze bushing's round face (across the hole). The whole idea is for the bronze bushing to ride on the steel sleeve so make sure you have those all operating smoothly and set them aside. The hangar bracket.. the steel sleeves get bolted up tight to it, so if you are concerned with paint being an issue there just use something cylindrical (a tad bigger in diameter than the steel sleeve) that can be sacrificial and bolt in place with some cheap hardward store bolts.

Make sure you have fitted your flaperons and checked the upper wing skin trailing edge clearance before painting!

The tail feathers... just stick a piece of towel or a section of poly tube in the hinge hole so the ID doesn't get painted. The spar ends.. choice is yours. With my nylon pogs there, painted won't matter, without them the paint is going to get worn off quickly.

[DocBaker]

Thanks Wayne. I have the flaperons set really good for alignment and top skin clearance. The color is going to be GM bright red (used on Corvettes before Victory Red became the color of choice) with semi-gloss black tips and leading edges and maybe some white stripe between the colors (not sure about that yet). Interior is a dove gray with black accent (control linkage). Here's a pic of your struts.

Lindall

[irishfield]

Nice.. the only thing I would caution and for you to give thought to, if the airplane is going to be tied down outside red is a terrible colour for the top surfaces of wings and stab due to paint fade. All the colours probably fade somewhat, but red is the one that shows it terribly by looking chalky.

[DocBaker]

I thought about that, but the plane will be hangared when not flown, unless I'm on a long trip. Also, I was told by an engineer at PPG that a coat of wax will help keep it from fading. A lot of the pilots around here use Rejex by the Corrosion X people. I think it is a polymer that helps protect the paint from UV. At least that's what I was told.

[irishfield]

Oh wax... that's what I'm doing wrong!! Do you have to wash the airplane first before using it??

[DocBaker]

I've seen pics of your plane and it looks spotless. Are you telling me you have never waxed your plane? :wtf:

[irishfield]

I've washed it twice in 20 years! Never waxed. That said my wing tops have gone chalky and I'm going to have to put some time in and take some nufinish or similar to them.