The Murphy Builders Site

Good Morning Keith

You may be sorry you asked when this gives you a headache ;)

The handle is a 1" round tube that nicely slides inside a 1.25" (I
think) square tube. The square tube has brackets on both ends that
rivet to the first bulkhead forward of the solid bulkhead and also to
doublers on the skin. The skin doublers also are picked up by the rivets
that fasten the skin to that bulkhead. The reason for the square tubing
is that you can rivet into it near the corners without interfering with
the round tube that slides inside it.

The round tube has a 3/8" thick round aluminum plug inserted and flush
rivetted. That lets you do two things. You can tap a hole from the end
in the center of the plug and bolt a delrin disk of slightly larger
diameter than the tube. (Drill a couple of more holes from the end so
that the rivets that hold the plug to the round tube can form an end
inside the holes when pulled). The delrin disk helps the round aluminum
tube slide in and out without aluminum to aluminum binding/galling. You
can then also screw in a locking pin (actually a bolt without a head or
use an allen srew) into the tube and plug that extends an eighth inch or
so radially out from the round tube. That pin will still let the round
tube slide in and out when it is aligned with a corner of the square
tube. When the round tube is inserted fully, the tube is turned an
eighth of a turn so that locking pin engages a slot in the square tube
and locks. A light spring is dropped into the square tube before the
round tube is inserted. The spring compresses slightly when the tube is
inserted fully which keeps anything from rattling and applies slight
pressure on the pin while the tube is locked in the retracted position.

A cotter pin can be inserted that crosses the corner of the square tube
such that the radial pin hits it to limit how far the round tube pulls
out. A little knob on the exterior end of the aluminum tube lets you
turn it an eighth turn to lock it retracted. The spring will push the
round tube out a bit when you unlock it. I think I did have some pics
posted at one time. Not sure if they are still there. At the time I
wasn't sure it was worth the effort but I use the handle at least once
on every flight. Installing the handle and the control cables is much
easier if you still have the section of top skin immediately in front of
the vertical fin removed - just don't crawl down the tail like that
unless you support the fuselage. Apparently Keith Kinden also sells a
retractable handle (which is probably simpler).

Ken

ps.
I purchased a David Clark headset on the way through Grand Rapids. It is
quite comfortable but now I can hear my strobes whine. Eliminating that
noise is proving to be a different kind of headache ;)

kpierson@dcsol.com wrote:

Bob: It was a pleasure meeting you and all of the other Ramblers
when you stopped for a break at Grand Rapids MN.
I learned a few things about the Rebel that I plan to incorporate
into 318R. I especially liked the pull out handle that Ken had
installed in his Rebel. Perhaps if he should read this post, he
would consider posting an explanation of how he made it?
Also I had a chance to view your Ramble pictures, they made
me envious.
Keith Pierson