The Murphy Builders Site

Ron,
We did, with the same sealant as we used on the cabin roof rivets.
Mostly to make sure that they don't rattle but we probably didn't have to.
Bob.
773E


Shannon wrote:

The manual doesn't mention sealing door windows. Is there any significant
advantage to sealing with RTV, urethane, etc.?

Ron
254R




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Shannon wrote:

The manual doesn't mention sealing door windows. Is there any significant
advantage to sealing with RTV, urethane, etc.?

Ron
254R

Hi Ron I sealed around my lower door windows with RTV and that was a
mistake. All the paint around the windows has peeled off from silicon
contamination. If you do seal around the windows make sure the product is
silicon free
Drew



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No sealant, no mess, no problem
Ken

Ron Shannon wrote:

The manual doesn't mention sealing door windows. Is there any significant
advantage to sealing with RTV, urethane, etc.?

Ron
254R

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I used RTV on my skylights and door windows. As has been pointed out, you
must mask any aluminum that will be painted. Once silicone gets on aluminum
it is very difficult to clean and paint will not attach.

I masked the aluminum and plexiglass. Remove the tape soon after installing
otherwise it will be difficult to pull the tape from the cured silicone and
get a clean separation.

It is important to use some water-tight but flexible sealant. The plexiglass
will grow and shrink depending on temperature and humidity. The holes that
rivets pass through should also be slightly oversized to allow the
plexiglass to move otherwise stress points will occur and cracks will form.

Oh, and finely sand or as suggested to me, heat the edges of the trimmed
plexiglass with a blow torch so that there are no saw grooves in the edges.
These become stress risers and contribute to cracking. Practice with the
torch first on scrap. You want to heat the edge, but not distort the window.
Take two narrow strips: one leave rough cut, the other heat the edges so
that there are no saw marks. Let both pieces cool then bend 'til they break.
You will find that the one with saw marks will break quickly while the other
bends amazingly before failure.

Eric

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ron
Shannon
Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 12:04 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] sealing door windows?

The manual doesn't mention sealing door windows. Is there any significant
advantage to sealing with RTV, urethane, etc.?

Ron
254R




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Hi Ron !

Like Ken - no sealant, no leaks, no problems !

If you want to use something, the best stuff is the
Bostick 1100 sealant strongly recommended for the windshields.
It is low-tack, and stays very flexible when cured - and
I hear it IS paintable .... Available at many hardware
or lumber outlets, in several colours, in caulking gun tubes.
Fairly cheap, too ...

Most guys use Lexan for side windows, but the holes
should still be oversized (say ... 2X) for the rivets, to allow
for expansion. Some use hardware store 'pop' rivets, so
they don't pull as hard ... Some have put short pieces of
1/8"+ I.D. aluminum or plastic tubing over the rivet stems,
to stop the rivet from squeezing too hard, and washers
under the heads to spread the load ....

.....or you can just replace the windows every 10 - 15 years
or so .... ;-) (Rebel #001 still has original side windows ...)

--
......bobp
bobp@prosumers.ca

http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.ordermygift.com

Any views expressed in this message are those of the individual sender
and do not necessarily reflect the views of any other entities or persons.
Any action taken as a result of the contents of this email is totally the
responsibility of the reader.

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Tuesday 11 August 2009 19:04, Ron Shannon wrote:

The manual doesn't mention sealing door windows. Is there any significant
advantage to sealing with RTV, urethane, etc.?

Ron
254R

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Thanks to all for the replies. I was thinking of using the Bostick 1100 --
which I have in inventory for upcoming windshield job -- but will re-think
that before tomorrow when the door assembly should be happening.

Ron



On Tue, Aug 11, 2009 at 8:00 PM, Bob Patterson <bobp@prosumers.ca> wrote:

Hi Ron !

Like Ken - no sealant, no leaks, no problems !

If you want to use something, the best stuff is the
Bostick 1100 sealant strongly recommended for the windshields.
It is low-tack, and stays very flexible when cured - and
I hear it IS paintable .... Available at many hardware
or lumber outlets, in several colours, in caulking gun tubes.
Fairly cheap, too ...

Most guys use Lexan for side windows, but the holes
should still be oversized (say ... 2X) for the rivets, to allow
for expansion. Some use hardware store 'pop' rivets, so
they don't pull as hard ... Some have put short pieces of
1/8"+ I.D. aluminum or plastic tubing over the rivet stems,
to stop the rivet from squeezing too hard, and washers
under the heads to spread the load ....

.....or you can just replace the windows every 10 - 15 years
or so .... ;-) (Rebel #001 still has original side windows ...)

--
......bobp
bobp@prosumers.ca

http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.ordermygift.com

Any views expressed in this message are those of the individual sender
and do not necessarily reflect the views of any other entities or persons.
Any action taken as a result of the contents of this email is totally the
responsibility of the reader.

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Tuesday 11 August 2009 19:04, Ron Shannon wrote:

The manual doesn't mention sealing door windows. Is there any significant
advantage to sealing with RTV, urethane, etc.?

Ron
254R

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