The Murphy Builders Site

Received: from tim - 208.250.191.205 by email.msn.com with Microsoft
SMTPSVC;
Mon, 11 May 1998 09:47:02 -0700
Received: by localhost with Microsoft MAPI; Mon, 11 May 1998 09:43:09 -0700
Message-ID: <01BD7CC1.34EB2540.tlcarter@email.msn.com>
From: Tim Carter <tlcarter@email.msn.com>
Reply-To: "tlcarter@msn.com" <tlcarter@msn.com>
To: 'Rebel Builder's Group List' <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Fairing on gear legs
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 09:28:00 -0700
X-Mailer: Microsoft Internet E-mail/MAPI - 8.0.0.4211
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Return-Path: tlcarter@email.msn.com

Bob:

Refering to the excerpt from your last e-mail below, do you have a picture
of the fairings on the gear legs? I like your idea, I'm just curious what
they look like. I assume you have standard gear bungees?

As for the gear, now that I am thinking about it, I have these questions:

Did you ever consider using a die-spring instead of the bungee? Did you
use the bungee wrap, or did you buy loops? Did you use the larger AN6
bolts for the bungees? How did you rig your internal safety cable? Can
you give a detailed description?

Thanks!

Tim




The VERY BEST STEAMLINING THING YOU CAN DO IS ...

FAIR the main gear legs ALL THE WAY TO THE BELLY (no gap at the top!!),
and the gear tubes (upper & lower) & bungees. We have found 1/32" Lexan to
be ideal for this, as well as strut fairings. It is easier to work than
Aluminum, and you can see through it to drill into the channels that you
must add to support it. (DO <NOT> DRILL INTO THE GEAR TUBES !!! CRITICAL
!!)
Fairings on gear legs should extend at least 2-3" ahead of the leg,
AND at LEAST 3-4" behind the back leg, to have proper taper. We put an
extra brake at the back, so the rivet heads are INSIDE. Whole leg fairing
was one piece, about 4' square, folded into a triangle.

Fairing the gear legs properly, and the strut fairings, will give you
AT LEAST <10 MPH> more cruise !!! (Our ACTUAL experience - on several
Rebels !) I know some think bare legs look macho, but boy, does it
cost you speed !!!





-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Received: from ts7-12.tor.istar.ca [204.191.151.139]
by mail1.toronto.istar.net with smtp (Exim 1.80 #5)
id 0yaNwe-00037z-00; Fri, 15 May 1998 13:06:57 -0400
X-Sender: crs1188@inforamp.net
X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.2
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com> (Murphy Rebel)
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
Subject: Re: Fairing on gear legs
Message-Id: <E0yaNwe-00037z-00@mail1.toronto.istar.net>
Date: Fri, 15 May 1998 13:06:57 -0400

RE: GEAR MODS./BUNGEES/SPRINGS

Will try to answer ...

Did you ever consider using a die-spring instead of the bungee?

Personally, I think this is a really bad idea - all loads are still
transferred to the airframe, and there is very little energy dissipation.
There ARE several Rebels nearby who DO have this mod., and it is sold
complete by a nearby builder (about $400). Because of the constant movement,
using die springs will cause much faster wear on all the hinge points -(you
might want to buy the bushing kit being offered by another builder -
otherwise
unnecessary!)

Did you >use the bungee wrap, or did you buy loops?

Have tried both - the loops are MUCH easier to install, and give more
consistent performance. The wraps loosen quickly after a few flights, and
sag.
Ron Barber has designed a simple rig to allow you to make your own
loops, using the bungee supplied - this is a GREAT idea !!
(IF I can find his sketch, I will try to scan it & send it to this
list - if anyone's interested ...)

The part number for loops is 9044 - (9/16" dia. and 4.4" inside dia.)

Did you use the larger AN6 bolts for the bungees?

This is really a GOOD idea !! The standard bolts did bend - but I
just replaced them, and they are holding up fine. If you haven't done it
yet, use the larger bolts.
Another really good idea to protect the bolts and the bungees is
to make some Delrin (or nylon...) bushings to go OVER the bolts - perhaps
about 1/4" of Delrin on each side of the bolt, and long enough to bridge
the gap between the gear tube and the penny washers. This spool/bushing
gives a larger surface area for the bungee to rest on, and also allows
it to move back & forth easier. The bushing also spreads some of the load
from the bolt to the washer & the tube, helping to prevent the bolt bending.


How did you rig your internal safety cable?

As per manual - it worked, too !!
(I did several stupid things, and managed to break the bottom bolt -
the cable held the FULLY loaded Rebel, allowing taxiing.)

OK - I'll confess !! The bottom bolt was badly worn, and I <should>
have replaced it, as I <should> have tightened it... The Rebel was
fully loaded, and I turned off a taxiway FASTER than I <should> have,
AND dropped the wheel INTO A HOLE at the same time !!! Can't really blame
the gear !!!

Be careful not to get too much slack in the safety cables, or they
can KINK !! This can lead to failure, just when you need them...
(Factory revised the recommended length of safety cables some time ago ..)

Will see if I can find a photo of the gear leg covers, to scan for
the list, if anyone is interested....

.....bobp

---------------------------------------orig.-------------------------------
At 09:28 AM 5/11/98 -0700, you wrote:

Bob:

Refering to the excerpt from your last e-mail below, do you have a picture
of the fairings on the gear legs? I like your idea, I'm just curious what
they look like. I assume you have standard gear bungees?

As for the gear, now that I am thinking about it, I have these questions:

Did you ever consider using a die-spring instead of the bungee? Did you
use the bungee wrap, or did you buy loops? Did you use the larger AN6
bolts for the bungees? How did you rig your internal safety cable? Can
you give a detailed description?

Thanks!

Tim




The VERY BEST STEAMLINING THING YOU CAN DO IS ...

FAIR the main gear legs ALL THE WAY TO THE BELLY (no gap at the top!!),
and the gear tubes (upper & lower) & bungees. We have found 1/32" Lexan to
be ideal for this, as well as strut fairings. It is easier to work than
Aluminum, and you can see through it to drill into the channels that you
must add to support it. (DO <NOT> DRILL INTO THE GEAR TUBES !!! CRITICAL
!!)
Fairings on gear legs should extend at least 2-3" ahead of the leg,
AND at LEAST 3-4" behind the back leg, to have proper taper. We put an
extra brake at the back, so the rivet heads are INSIDE. Whole leg fairing
was one piece, about 4' square, folded into a triangle.

Fairing the gear legs properly, and the strut fairings, will give you
AT LEAST <10 MPH> more cruise !!! (Our ACTUAL experience - on several
Rebels !) I know some think bare legs look macho, but boy, does it
cost you speed !!!

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Received: from albedo.net (ppp140.albedo.net [206.51.22.159]) by
juliet.albedo.net (8.8.3/8.6.9) with ESMTP id LAA19406 for
<murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>; Sat, 16 May 1998 11:17:00 -0400
Message-ID: <355CF4CF.A1DD571B@albedo.net>
Date: Fri, 15 May 1998 22:07:11 -0400
From: Susan Lehman <klehman@albedo.net>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.05 [en] (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: " (Murphy Rebel)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Fairing on gear legs
References: <E0yaNwe-00037z-00@mail1.toronto.istar.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Bob

No hurry at all but if you come accross that drawing for making the bungee
cord
rings (and the fairings for that matter), I for one would like to see it.

thanks
Ken




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------