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[rebel-builders]Rear spar fitting (W-124)

https://www.murphybuilders.net/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=9231

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[rebel-builders]Rear spar fitting (W-124)

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 4:51 pm
by rusty & patti hood
Our W-124 Rear spar fitting was misdrilled and needs to be replaced. What
material is used? Also do the rivets that secure the torque tube bracket
need to be countersunk? (under the rear spar fitting)

Thanks in advance
Rusty 719R


----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 6:01 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Planning ahead for Amphibs

At 09:14 AM 8/26/2008 -0400, you wrote:
My intent is to initially get the airplane flying on wheels and then
install a set of amphib floats. Other than the obvious float
reinforcement
are there any changes I should make during construction to make it easier
when the time comes to install the floats. For example, what is normally
done for the water rudders? Should I cut holes now to run cables later?
How about mounting the hydraulics and running the lines? Should I install
lines now and just cap them off?
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Dave Jackson
Rebel 414
Hi Dave I think that you should definately beef up the rear attach points
and I'd add a triangular doubler to the floor just in front of the main
carrythrough on each side where the hydraulic lines will exit. It's
impossible to know where the rudder fairleads will land untill you install
the cables. I used nutserts instead of rivets to hold the fairleads on as
I
change back to wheels every fall.
Drew



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[rebel-builders]Rear spar fitting (W-124)

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 4:51 pm
by bransom
Rusty,
I don't know the material (always wondered myself), but to help anyone else
remember what W-124 is, I put a picture up at
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/ransom/Murphy/misc/W124.jpg .
I also cant recall what needed to be countersunk for torque tube and my
wings are at the airport so I can't check. But I do see in MAM that it says:
"12) Back drill the remaining holes into the Rear Spar. NOTE: The center
hole of the vertical flange on the inboard Bearing Base will go through the
Rear Spar Attach Fittings."

I'm also pretty sure I remember that every hole through W-124 is bolted
with AN3.
-Ben/ 496R
Our W-124 Rear spar fitting was misdrilled and needs to be replaced. What
material is used? Also do the rivets that secure the torque tube bracket
need to be countersunk? (under the rear spar fitting)

Thanks in advance
Rusty 719R


----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 6:01 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Planning ahead for Amphibs

At 09:14 AM 8/26/2008 -0400, you wrote:
My intent is to initially get the airplane flying on wheels and then
install a set of amphib floats. Other than the obvious float
reinforcement
are there any changes I should make during construction to make it easier
when the time comes to install the floats. For example, what is normally
done for the water rudders? Should I cut holes now to run cables later?
How about mounting the hydraulics and running the lines? Should I install
lines now and just cap them off?
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Dave Jackson
Rebel 414
Hi Dave I think that you should definately beef up the rear attach points
and I'd add a triangular doubler to the floor just in front of the main
carrythrough on each side where the hydraulic lines will exit. It's
impossible to know where the rudder fairleads will land untill you install
the cables. I used nutserts instead of rivets to hold the fairleads on as
I
change back to wheels every fall.
Drew



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[rebel-builders]Rear spar fitting (W-124)

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 4:51 pm
by Dieter Oberbichler
You can either drill through the fitting, or coutersink the doubler (
W133)and then flush rivet the bearing base ( that is what I did) you can
find this info on the MAM homepage in the quick response notes- actually I
discoverd this after I decided to countersink..... and you also find the
info regarding the increased size of the doubler, due to edge distance
issues.

Dieter Oberbichler
Rebel 778R ( downsizing to Rotax 912 ULS)
tail, right wing, 50% left wing and a tailcone( hate this inner floor!)
www.mykitlog.com/oberbichler

BTW. Ben, thank you for all this pictures on your homepage, helped a lot,
I admire your " precision work" ---- in my case it is sometimes more like
one step forward- two steps back( especially if I work late in the night)


----- Original Message -----
From: <bransom@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 5:54 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders]Rear spar fitting (W-124)

Rusty,
I don't know the material (always wondered myself), but to help anyone
else
remember what W-124 is, I put a picture up at
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/ransom/Murphy/misc/W124.jpg .
I also cant recall what needed to be countersunk for torque tube and my
wings are at the airport so I can't check. But I do see in MAM that it
says:
"12) Back drill the remaining holes into the Rear Spar. NOTE: The center
hole of the vertical flange on the inboard Bearing Base will go through
the
Rear Spar Attach Fittings."

I'm also pretty sure I remember that every hole through W-124 is bolted
with AN3.
-Ben/ 496R
Our W-124 Rear spar fitting was misdrilled and needs to be replaced.
What
material is used? Also do the rivets that secure the torque tube bracket
need to be countersunk? (under the rear spar fitting)

Thanks in advance
Rusty 719R


----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 6:01 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Planning ahead for Amphibs

At 09:14 AM 8/26/2008 -0400, you wrote: install a set of amphib floats. Other than the obvious float
reinforcement
are there any changes I should make during construction to make it
easier
when the time comes to install the floats. For example, what is
normally
done for the water rudders? Should I cut holes now to run cables
later?
How about mounting the hydraulics and running the lines? Should I
install
lines now and just cap them off? Hi Dave I think that you should definately beef up the rear attach
points
and I'd add a triangular doubler to the floor just in front of the main
carrythrough on each side where the hydraulic lines will exit. It's
impossible to know where the rudder fairleads will land untill you
install
the cables. I used nutserts instead of rivets to hold the fairleads on
as
I
change back to wheels every fall.
Drew



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[rebel-builders]Rear spar fitting (W-124)

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 4:51 pm
by Ken
I'd guess 2024T3 but suggest you ask MAM. Definately a stronger
material than 6061 from what I can tell. Actually I think all the
fittings are 2024T3 but don't know for sure.
Ken

rusty & patti hood wrote:
Our W-124 Rear spar fitting was misdrilled and needs to be replaced. What
material is used? Also do the rivets that secure the torque tube bracket
need to be countersunk? (under the rear spar fitting)

Thanks in advance
Rusty 719R

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[rebel-builders]Rear spar fitting (W-124)

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 4:51 pm
by Richard Wampach
It is steel on the SR-3500, I suspect 4130. I just drilled and reamed
mine last week, and a magnet sticks to it. Have you tried one on yours?

Dick

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Ken
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 7:26 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders]Rear spar fitting (W-124)

I'd guess 2024T3 but suggest you ask MAM. Definately a stronger
material than 6061 from what I can tell. Actually I think all the
fittings are 2024T3 but don't know for sure.
Ken

rusty & patti hood wrote:
Our W-124 Rear spar fitting was misdrilled and needs to be replaced.
What
material is used? Also do the rivets that secure the torque tube
bracket
need to be countersunk? (under the rear spar fitting)

Thanks in advance
Rusty 719R

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