The Murphy Builders Site

Hi Charles !

There is NO problem with stuff getting into the stick mechanism !
If you were really paranoid, you COULD build a sheet metal cover for
the whole thing - have only seen ONE Rebel that had this. It was covered
with carpet, and looked nice, but all the extra stuff made one <heavy>
Rebel !

Having everything open makes for easy inspection & lubrication ...

.....bobp

--------------------------------orig.-------------------------------------
At 05:12 PM 9/17/00 +0100, you wrote:

Hello to all...one complaint I have heard from a few, is that the control
stick mechanism on the Rebel is not covered. Is cabin debris getting
caught in the system a factor? The SR has a double floor that encloses the
bottom stick linkages. Could a step enclosure be fashioned to cover the
hardware, then rubber boot the sticks coming up through? Or is there not
enough space for such a modification? Not building yet...just
wondering..Charles Beck


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Hello to all...one complaint I have heard from a few, is that the control
stick mechanism on the Rebel is not covered. Is cabin debris getting
caught in the system a factor? The SR has a double floor that encloses the
bottom stick linkages. Could a step enclosure be fashioned to cover the
hardware, then rubber boot the sticks coming up through? Or is there not
enough space for such a modification? Not building yet...just
wondering..Charles Beck


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Charles I've not had any trouble with debris in my controls and I don't
think its a factor as theres lots of clearance. I was concerned with
exposed rudder cables in the baggage area but this hasn't been a problem
either.
Drew Dalgleish

At 05:12 PM 9/17/00 +0100, you wrote:

Hello to all...one complaint I have heard from a few, is that the control
stick mechanism on the Rebel is not covered. Is cabin debris getting
caught in the system a factor? The SR has a double floor that encloses the
bottom stick linkages. Could a step enclosure be fashioned to cover the
hardware, then rubber boot the sticks coming up through? Or is there not
enough space for such a modification? Not building yet...just
wondering..Charles Beck


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There IS an aluminum channel to cover the rudder cables - and this
sure is a good thing, when you pack as much luggage as we do on the
Rebel Rambles !! :-)

A Lexan cover over the aileron mixer mechanism on the rear left
side of the baggage area would be a good idea - you DO want to keep
stuff out of THERE !! I just put a big, flat-sided suitcase next to
it, to keep everything else out .... :-)

....bobp

--------------------------------orig.------------------------------------
At 12:56 PM 9/18/00 -0400, you wrote:

Charles I've not had any trouble with debris in my controls and I don't
think its a factor as theres lots of clearance. I was concerned with
exposed rudder cables in the baggage area but this hasn't been a problem
either.
Drew Dalgleish

At 05:12 PM 9/17/00 +0100, you wrote:

Hello to all...one complaint I have heard from a few, is that the control
stick mechanism on the Rebel is not covered. Is cabin debris getting
caught in the system a factor? The SR has a double floor that encloses the
bottom stick linkages. Could a step enclosure be fashioned to cover the
hardware, then rubber boot the sticks coming up through? Or is there not
enough space for such a modification? Not building yet...just
wondering..Charles Beck


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Your following message has been delivered to the 167 members of
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Bob, got to correct you there! There is an aluminum channel (hat) over the
ELEVATOR cables, but there is not a cover over the rudder cables. No reason
why you couldn't make one if concerned about them though. Anyone that has
seen my personal Rebel (or Charles Dixons), would have seen my mixer cover
(aluminum and very easy to access) to keep my kids hands (2 seats in back)
out of the mixer (and hide my flap mechanism bellcranks etc) or Charles's
moose's head out of his, when he gets up to Alaska!

Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 3:26 PM
Subject: Re: Control Mechanism cover

There IS an aluminum channel to cover the rudder cables - and this
sure is a good thing, when you pack as much luggage as we do on the
Rebel Rambles !! :-)

A Lexan cover over the aileron mixer mechanism on the rear left
side of the baggage area would be a good idea - you DO want to keep
stuff out of THERE !! I just put a big, flat-sided suitcase next to
it, to keep everything else out .... :-)

....bobp

--------------------------------orig.------------------------------------
At 12:56 PM 9/18/00 -0400, you wrote:

Charles I've not had any trouble with debris in my controls and I don't
think its a factor as theres lots of clearance. I was concerned with
exposed rudder cables in the baggage area but this hasn't been a problem
either.
Drew Dalgleish

At 05:12 PM 9/17/00 +0100, you wrote:

Hello to all...one complaint I have heard from a few, is that the

control

stick mechanism on the Rebel is not covered. Is cabin debris getting
caught in the system a factor? The SR has a double floor that encloses

the

bottom stick linkages. Could a step enclosure be fashioned to cover the
hardware, then rubber boot the sticks coming up through? Or is there

not

enough space for such a modification? Not building yet...just
wondering..Charles Beck

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OOOoooopppsss!!! Typing finger fell asleep !! You're right -
I MEANT to say ELEVATOR cables ...... The cover over these in the
baggage area is "A good thing"(tm) :-)

There's been no problem with the rudder cables .... they're
up high enough to be out of the way !

......bobp

-------------------------------orig.--------------------------------
At 05:59 PM 9/18/00 -0400, you wrote:

Bob, got to correct you there! There is an aluminum channel (hat) over the
ELEVATOR cables, but there is not a cover over the rudder cables. No reason
why you couldn't make one if concerned about them though. Anyone that has
seen my personal Rebel (or Charles Dixons), would have seen my mixer cover
(aluminum and very easy to access) to keep my kids hands (2 seats in back)
out of the mixer (and hide my flap mechanism bellcranks etc) or Charles's
moose's head out of his, when he gets up to Alaska!

Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 3:26 PM
Subject: Re: Control Mechanism cover

There IS an aluminum channel to cover the rudder cables - and this
sure is a good thing, when you pack as much luggage as we do on the
Rebel Rambles !! :-)

A Lexan cover over the aileron mixer mechanism on the rear left
side of the baggage area would be a good idea - you DO want to keep
stuff out of THERE !! I just put a big, flat-sided suitcase next to
it, to keep everything else out .... :-)

....bobp

--------------------------------orig.------------------------------------
At 12:56 PM 9/18/00 -0400, you wrote:

Charles I've not had any trouble with debris in my controls and I don't
think its a factor as theres lots of clearance. I was concerned with
exposed rudder cables in the baggage area but this hasn't been a problem
either.
Drew Dalgleish

At 05:12 PM 9/17/00 +0100, you wrote:

control

the

not

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Your following message has been delivered to the 167 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 21:09:58 on 18 Sep 2000.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------



I know that's what you meant Bob, but I didn't want people calling the
factory and stating they didn't get material to cover the rudder cables and
that your had said it was a normal part of the Rebel kit!

While we are on this subject of Elevator cable covers. For gods sake, don't
rivet them down every 1 1/4" from front to back, like I keep finding on
Rebels I work on! A #8 S.S screw every 6 to 8 Inches is plenty to hold them
in place and it will allow you to easily remove the cover to inspect your
cables & guides during your annual inspections. Also, this will allow easy
replacement or field removal (with your leatherman knife) to get you home if
the moose is too heavy and squashes the cover down onto the cables. In
Charles Dixon's aircraft he had me remove the riveted down .020 cover and I
made new ones from .032 to support that moose he is going to load in there!

Blue skies,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: Control Mechanism cover

OOOoooopppsss!!! Typing finger fell asleep !! You're right -
I MEANT to say ELEVATOR cables ...... The cover over these in the
baggage area is "A good thing"(tm) :-)

There's been no problem with the rudder cables .... they're
up high enough to be out of the way !

......bobp

-------------------------------orig.--------------------------------
At 05:59 PM 9/18/00 -0400, you wrote:

Bob, got to correct you there! There is an aluminum channel (hat) over

the

ELEVATOR cables, but there is not a cover over the rudder cables. No

reason

why you couldn't make one if concerned about them though. Anyone that has
seen my personal Rebel (or Charles Dixons), would have seen my mixer

cover

(aluminum and very easy to access) to keep my kids hands (2 seats in

back)

out of the mixer (and hide my flap mechanism bellcranks etc) or Charles's
moose's head out of his, when he gets up to Alaska!

Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 3:26 PM
Subject: Re: Control Mechanism cover

There IS an aluminum channel to cover the rudder cables - and this
sure is a good thing, when you pack as much luggage as we do on the
Rebel Rambles !! :-)

A Lexan cover over the aileron mixer mechanism on the rear left
side of the baggage area would be a good idea - you DO want to keep
stuff out of THERE !! I just put a big, flat-sided suitcase next to
it, to keep everything else out .... :-)

....bobp

--------------------------------orig.------------------------------------

At 12:56 PM 9/18/00 -0400, you wrote:

don't

problem

control

encloses

the

the

not

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HI Bob,
On the rudder cable cover issue, have you heard of anyone crushing the cover? The flat top thin stock just seemed destined for denting. My solution was to cut schedule 40 pipe in half and strap that to the floor. The fairleads offset are just 11/2 apart and it coverd them nicely. The pipe is very duarble and the half round is far less likely to get squished. I also cut a short piece to make sort of a "t" and covered the pullys that I used to transition from the tork tube to the flat. Keeps stuff out of the pullies too.
Isn't building your own aircraft fun?!!
Keep at it it'a worth it! Curt N97MR
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Boy Wayne,
You caught me on that one too! I meant elevator cables. Curt N97MR
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Here's how I have cut plastic pipe before. Get a square block of wood and
bore a hole into the end of it the same diameter as your pipe, shove the
pipe into this hole and drill and screw in place. If you do this to both
ends you now have a square flat surface that will run down a saw fence and
you can rip your pipe clean and straight.

Mike

At 07:34 PM 9/21/00 -0400, you wrote:

Hi Curt !

Haven't heard of anyone crushing the hat over the ELEVATOR cables
(got us <both> on that one :-) ) - but the half-tube idea sounds good.
Is that a thick-wall plastic pipe ?? Also - do you have some super
trick for cutting it straight ?

.....bobp

-------------------------------orig.---------------------------------------
At 05:26 PM 9/19/00 EDT, you wrote:

HI Bob,
On the rudder cable cover issue, have you heard of anyone crushing the

cover? The flat top thin stock just seemed destined for denting. My solution
was to cut schedule 40 pipe in half and strap that to the floor. The
fairleads offset are just 11/2 apart and it coverd them nicely. The pipe is
very duarble and the half round is far less likely to get squished. I also
cut a short piece to make sort of a "t" and covered the pullys that I used
to transition from the tork tube to the flat. Keeps stuff out of the pullies
too.

Isn't building your own aircraft fun?!!
Keep at it it'a worth it! Curt N97MR
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Hi Curt !

Haven't heard of anyone crushing the hat over the ELEVATOR cables
(got us <both> on that one :-) ) - but the half-tube idea sounds good.
Is that a thick-wall plastic pipe ?? Also - do you have some super
trick for cutting it straight ?

.....bobp

-------------------------------orig.---------------------------------------
At 05:26 PM 9/19/00 EDT, you wrote:

HI Bob,
On the rudder cable cover issue, have you heard of anyone crushing the

cover? The flat top thin stock just seemed destined for denting. My solution
was to cut schedule 40 pipe in half and strap that to the floor. The
fairleads offset are just 11/2 apart and it coverd them nicely. The pipe is
very duarble and the half round is far less likely to get squished. I also
cut a short piece to make sort of a "t" and covered the pullys that I used
to transition from the tork tube to the flat. Keeps stuff out of the pullies
too.

Isn't building your own aircraft fun?!!
Keep at it it'a worth it! Curt N97MR
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Thanks for the suggestion, Mike !!

.....bobp

---------------------------orig.----------------------------------------
At 09:12 PM 9/21/00 -0800, you wrote:

Here's how I have cut plastic pipe before. Get a square block of wood and
bore a hole into the end of it the same diameter as your pipe, shove the
pipe into this hole and drill and screw in place. If you do this to both
ends you now have a square flat surface that will run down a saw fence and
you can rip your pipe clean and straight.

Mike

At 07:34 PM 9/21/00 -0400, you wrote:

Hi Curt !

Haven't heard of anyone crushing the hat over the ELEVATOR cables
(got us <both> on that one :-) ) - but the half-tube idea sounds good.
Is that a thick-wall plastic pipe ?? Also - do you have some super
trick for cutting it straight ?

.....bobp

-------------------------------orig.---------------------------------------
At 05:26 PM 9/19/00 EDT, you wrote:

HI Bob,
On the rudder cable cover issue, have you heard of anyone crushing the

cover? The flat top thin stock just seemed destined for denting. My solution
was to cut schedule 40 pipe in half and strap that to the floor. The
fairleads offset are just 11/2 apart and it coverd them nicely. The pipe is
very duarble and the half round is far less likely to get squished. I also
cut a short piece to make sort of a "t" and covered the pullys that I used
to transition from the tork tube to the flat. Keeps stuff out of the pullies
too.

Isn't building your own aircraft fun?!!
Keep at it it'a worth it! Curt N97MR
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HI Bob,
Actually the pipe is the thinner stuff. I think it's schedule 40, about 1/8 side walls. Mine was left over from my central vacum system. Cheap too!!
To cut it, I clamped it and marked it like marking the torque tubes, and slowly fed it through the band saw, using a VEE block for stability. I then just flush riveted a couple of straps to the inside and rivenuted it to the floor in 4 places. 2 each side. Quick removal for fairlead inspection and really solid. It was also real easy to glue my carpeting to.
Just a side note on the Warp drive props, Isn't the harmonic balancer that Rich in Lowel MI. used only about 8lbs? Still alot lighter than a metal prop. Of course if we're all that worried about 8 to 10 lbs we could just skip a couple of those dawn patrol pancakes!!
Hope to see you in NOV. Curt N97MR
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Hi Curt !

Thanks for the details !! Sounds like a slick installation -
lots of details we missed on your Rebel !!! Gotta get the camera
out again ...

I'm sure there will be a LOT of interest in details on that
harmonic balancer for Warp Drive props, now that there have been at
least TWO cracked blades on 160 hp. O-320's ..... !!!

Do you know if it came from Warp Drive, or did he make it up
himself ??? Inquiring minds will want to know where to get one !!! :-)
I'm sure 8 lbs. would not be a big problem ... ;-)

Looking forward to the November meeting !!

.....bobp

-----------------------------orig.-----------------------------------------
At 09:40 PM 9/23/00 EDT, you wrote:

HI Bob,
Actually the pipe is the thinner stuff. I think it's schedule 40, about

1/8 side walls. Mine was left over from my central vacum system. Cheap too!!

To cut it, I clamped it and marked it like marking the torque tubes, and

slowly fed it through the band saw, using a VEE block for stability. I then
just flush riveted a couple of straps to the inside and rivenuted it to the
floor in 4 places. 2 each side. Quick removal for fairlead inspection and
really solid. It was also real easy to glue my carpeting to.

Just a side note on the Warp drive props, Isn't the harmonic balancer

that Rich in Lowel MI. used only about 8lbs? Still alot lighter than a metal
prop. Of course if we're all that worried about 8 to 10 lbs we could just
skip a couple of those dawn patrol pancakes!!

Hope to see you in NOV. Curt N97MR
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Rebflyer,

What is a harmonic balancer for a Warp Drive prop?

Bruce G.
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