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Nav light / Landing light / Pitot heat wiring provisions

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:57 pm
by Ralph Baker
We are building Elite 611E and are now about to close the right wing.
There will be 6 -#12 and 5 -#16 wires from the wing root to the second bay
from the tip and then the 5-#16 wires will continue on to the Aeroflash nav
/ strobe / position lights mounted on the fiberglas wing tips. I have
considered the following options:
1- Open wire bundles with Adel clamps every 24 inches running in the
forward lightening holes in the ribs.
Wiring bundle would enter the leading edge root rib through a grommeted
hole with doubler.
2- Open wire bundles as above run on the front of the front spar and
exiting forward of the front wing attach.
3- Same as 1 (and 2) above except with cable run in aluminum tubing for
future maintainability.

Before you question the number of #12 wires - the landing and taxi lights
will be switched separately and there is a (-) ground wire for each,
including the pitot. The sizes are required for voltage drop and heating
effect. This is based on years of trouble shooting industrial control
circuits and how much easier it is when you can lift the ground at one
point.

I would appreciate any commentary on the above and suggestions as to which
of the above might be preferred and why. Right now I am leaning toward
aluminum tubing. How have the rest of you addressed this?
Thanks for your consideration.
Ralph Baker and Sue Scouten
Sumter, South Carolina

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Nav light / Landing light / Pitot heat wiring provisions

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:57 pm
by Lonnie Benson
Ralph,

I have installed an aluminum tube through the leading edge ribs, and I am
using the main spar as my ground path. I have installed a landing light and
taxi light in the second bay in from the tip on the left wing and Wheelen
Strobes on the tips. There is also a heated pitot tube on the left wing.
This past week I have been installing the Dave Fife wing tips. They are
beautiful, smooth as a baby's bottom, and fit very well. The tips are held
on with screws.

Lonnie Benson
Rebel #171
Fairfax, VA

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph Baker" <rbaker@sumter.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Cc: <rbaker@sumter.net>
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2000 11:06 PM
Subject: Nav light / Landing light / Pitot heat wiring provisions

We are building Elite 611E and are now about to close the right wing.
There will be 6 -#12 and 5 -#16 wires from the wing root to the second bay
from the tip and then the 5-#16 wires will continue on to the Aeroflash
nav
/ strobe / position lights mounted on the fiberglas wing tips. I have
considered the following options:
1- Open wire bundles with Adel clamps every 24 inches running in the
forward lightening holes in the ribs.
Wiring bundle would enter the leading edge root rib through a grommeted
hole with doubler.
2- Open wire bundles as above run on the front of the front spar and
exiting forward of the front wing attach.
3- Same as 1 (and 2) above except with cable run in aluminum tubing for
future maintainability.

Before you question the number of #12 wires - the landing and taxi lights
will be switched separately and there is a (-) ground wire for each,
including the pitot. The sizes are required for voltage drop and heating
effect. This is based on years of trouble shooting industrial control
circuits and how much easier it is when you can lift the ground at one
point.

I would appreciate any commentary on the above and suggestions as to which
of the above might be preferred and why. Right now I am leaning toward
aluminum tubing. How have the rest of you addressed this?
Thanks for your consideration.
Ralph Baker and Sue Scouten
Sumter, South Carolina

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Nav light / Landing light / Pitot heat wiring provisions

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:57 pm
by LisaFly99
In a message dated 9/15/00 10:09:02 PM Central Daylight Time,
rbaker@sumter.net writes:

<< 3- Same as 1 (and 2) above except with cable run in aluminum tubing for
future maintainability. >>
Ralph
I used plastic water pipe for conduit. Riveted aluminum tabs over lightning
holes to carry the conduit. Drilled for grommets had to lube grommets to
slide in pipe it was a snug fit. You can back it up on each side of one of
the tabs with hose clamps or zipties if you think it might move.
Phil&Lisa Smith #460 N414D
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Nav light / Landing light / Pitot heat wiring provisions

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:57 pm
by Bob Patterson
Hi Ralph !

Several builders here have used PVC plastic water pipe for
their wiring - the advantage is that chafing wires can't short out
to the tube, and you can always pull them out for replacement, or
pull extras through later (leave a piece of heavy twine in the tube ...)

Later on, most switched to flexible clear plastic tubing of
say 3/8 or 7/16" ID - it was easier to install !! Just tie wrap the
tube to ribs (and maybe use grommets & a bit of Pro-Seal, too .... ;-) )
If the wiring is too bulky, you could always do 2 tubes !

One thing most do now - run your wires down the wing strut,
NOT to the wing root !! (Also the pitot tubing ...)

There are several good reasons for doing this - mostly,
because everything then comes out at the lower sidewall of the
cockpit, where it can easily & tidily be run up to the panel.
If you go to the wing root, you will have a big bundle of wire to
route <around> the front cage (do not drill extra holes in the cage !)

If you install quick-connects at both ends of the strut, it
can make removing the wings a very simple exercise later ...

Have Fun !
....bobp

-----------------------------orig.----------------------------------------
At 11:06 PM 9/15/00 -0400, you wrote:
We are building Elite 611E and are now about to close the right wing.
There will be 6 -#12 and 5 -#16 wires from the wing root to the second bay
from the tip and then the 5-#16 wires will continue on to the Aeroflash nav
/ strobe / position lights mounted on the fiberglas wing tips. I have
considered the following options:
1- Open wire bundles with Adel clamps every 24 inches running in the
forward lightening holes in the ribs.
Wiring bundle would enter the leading edge root rib through a grommeted
hole with doubler.
2- Open wire bundles as above run on the front of the front spar and
exiting forward of the front wing attach.
3- Same as 1 (and 2) above except with cable run in aluminum tubing for
future maintainability.

Before you question the number of #12 wires - the landing and taxi lights
will be switched separately and there is a (-) ground wire for each,
including the pitot. The sizes are required for voltage drop and heating
effect. This is based on years of trouble shooting industrial control
circuits and how much easier it is when you can lift the ground at one
point.

I would appreciate any commentary on the above and suggestions as to which
of the above might be preferred and why. Right now I am leaning toward
aluminum tubing. How have the rest of you addressed this?
Thanks for your consideration.
Ralph Baker and Sue Scouten
Sumter, South Carolina

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between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
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Archives located at:
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Nav light / Landing light / Pitot heat wiring provisions

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:57 pm
by Roger & Alice Hoffman
I'm curious about the use of tubing to run the electrical wires in the wing.
I understand the concept, to make it easier to replace wires if a problem
develops in the circuit.

But, if the wire bundle is routed, clamped, tied, etc., in accordance with
'Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices', and if the wire was of a
single length (not spliced) through the inaccessible area, wouldn't the
PROBABILITY of a break in the circuit be very, very remote?

I'm building the right wing now, and I have been trying to plan how to do
this.

BobP-Thanks for the tip on routing the wires through the wing strut. That
makes a lot of sense to me.

Roger Hoffman #687R
Eugene, OR USA

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Nav light / Landing light / Pitot heat wiring provisions

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:57 pm
by Wray Thompson
Roger here are some pictures of how I did my tube. The thought is to be able to easily
make changes in the future even when the wing is closed. This tube as shown comes out by
the strut attach point so it can run down the strut as Bob suggest. Remember I don't have
mine in the air yet so there is no data on how well this will work or stand up. Here are
the picture (small to keep msg size down) ...if anyone can't see these well enough or
would like a bigger picture let me know and I'll post the full size to the web page.
[Image][Image][Image]

Roger & Alice Hoffman wrote:
I'm curious about the use of tubing to run the electrical wires in the wing.
I understand the concept, to make it easier to replace wires if a problem
develops in the circuit.

But, if the wire bundle is routed, clamped, tied, etc., in accordance with
'Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices', and if the wire was of a
single length (not spliced) through the inaccessible area, wouldn't the
PROBABILITY of a break in the circuit be very, very remote?

I'm building the right wing now, and I have been trying to plan how to do
this.

BobP-Thanks for the tip on routing the wires through the wing strut. That
makes a lot of sense to me.

Roger Hoffman #687R
Eugene, OR USA

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--
Wray Thompson ...Rebel 306 ...home page http://webhome.idirect.com/~wrayt/
My ICQ number is 29764664



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Nav light / Landing light / Pitot heat wiring provisions

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:57 pm
by Wray Thompson
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------3A023A98BE5207CD8CEE3B3B
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Roger here are some pictures of how I did my tube. The thought is to be
able to easily
make changes in the future even when the wing is closed. This tube as
shown comes out by
the strut attach point so it can run down the strut as Bob suggest.
Remember I don't have
mine in the air yet so there is no data on how well this will work or
stand up. Attached are
the pictures (small to keep msg size down) ...if anyone can't see these
well enough or
would like a bigger picture let me know and I'll post the full size to
the web page.


Roger & Alice Hoffman wrote:
I'm curious about the use of tubing to run the electrical wires in the wing.
I understand the concept, to make it easier to replace wires if a problem
develops in the circuit.

But, if the wire bundle is routed, clamped, tied, etc., in accordance with
'Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices', and if the wire was of a
single length (not spliced) through the inaccessible area, wouldn't the
PROBABILITY of a break in the circuit be very, very remote?

I'm building the right wing now, and I have been trying to plan how to do
this.

BobP-Thanks for the tip on routing the wires through the wing strut. That
makes a lot of sense to me.

Roger Hoffman #687R
Eugene, OR USA

*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
--
Wray Thompson ...Rebel 306 ...home page
http://webhome.idirect.com/~wrayt/
My ICQ number is 29764664
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Nav light / Landing light / Pitot heat wiring provisions

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:57 pm
by Drew and Jan
Ralph on my rebel I just ran the wires through the tooling holes in the
leading edge ribs they're held in place with a dab of silicon at each rib.
I'm not worried about having to replace them. I'm also using my wing as a
ground path to save weight and $$. It's a lot easier to troubleshoot a
lightbulb than an industrial controller:] Good luck Drew Dalgleish

At 11:06 PM 9/15/00 -0400, you wrote:
We are building Elite 611E and are now about to close the right wing.
There will be 6 -#12 and 5 -#16 wires from the wing root to the second bay
from the tip and then the 5-#16 wires will continue on to the Aeroflash nav
/ strobe / position lights mounted on the fiberglas wing tips. I have
considered the following options:
1- Open wire bundles with Adel clamps every 24 inches running in the
forward lightening holes in the ribs.
Wiring bundle would enter the leading edge root rib through a grommeted
hole with doubler.
2- Open wire bundles as above run on the front of the front spar and
exiting forward of the front wing attach.
3- Same as 1 (and 2) above except with cable run in aluminum tubing for
future maintainability.

Before you question the number of #12 wires - the landing and taxi lights
will be switched separately and there is a (-) ground wire for each,
including the pitot. The sizes are required for voltage drop and heating
effect. This is based on years of trouble shooting industrial control
circuits and how much easier it is when you can lift the ground at one
point.

I would appreciate any commentary on the above and suggestions as to which
of the above might be preferred and why. Right now I am leaning toward
aluminum tubing. How have the rest of you addressed this?
Thanks for your consideration.
Ralph Baker and Sue Scouten
Sumter, South Carolina

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Nav light / Landing light / Pitot heat wiring provisions

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:57 pm
by Bob Patterson
Glad to help !

You're right - there's not much chance of a break ! BUT - even
the best wire deteriorates with time - and there's the possibility of
mice and other varmints, OR the possibility that you might want to
add some new electrical gadget out there sometime (gps collision avoidance
system antennae ?? - or maybe igniters for the smoke system ;-`) ?? ).

The certified aircraft manufacturers have been tying their wiring
in forever .... it just seems a shame to cut open a good wing, just to
fix a wire problem ....

The tube usually runs somewhere behind the front spar - I think
I recall Darryl saying that he doesn't like to see wiring in the
very front D-tube ....
(can't remember why ...)
....bobp

-------------------------orig.----------------------------------------------
At 05:07 AM 9/18/00 -0700, you wrote:
I'm curious about the use of tubing to run the electrical wires in the wing.
I understand the concept, to make it easier to replace wires if a problem
develops in the circuit.

But, if the wire bundle is routed, clamped, tied, etc., in accordance with
'Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices', and if the wire was of a
single length (not spliced) through the inaccessible area, wouldn't the
PROBABILITY of a break in the circuit be very, very remote?

I'm building the right wing now, and I have been trying to plan how to do
this.

BobP-Thanks for the tip on routing the wires through the wing strut. That
makes a lot of sense to me.

Roger Hoffman #687R
Eugene, OR USA

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