Hi Charles !!
Well, I just couldn't resist ! These comments are purely
<MY> opinions and choices, but might be helpful for you .....
(I have about as many biases as anybody :-) )
I've mixed them into your letter below ....
....bobp
----------------------------orig.--------------------------------
At 02:47 PM 9/11/00 +0100, you wrote:
Hello to all...and thanks for a very interesting discussion group. Like
some others, I have been following the comments on Rebel design and
construction. I am just about ready to order a Rebel. There certainly are
a lot of opinions here to consider. I intend to use the Rebel to fly out
of some rough strips, probably go with an O320...the goal is to have as
durable and safe an aircraft as possible. My considerations follow.
1.Gear choice: Spring gear...I have begun to have doubts about this choice.
MAM says I can get the Super Rebel (thicker) wrap to install around the
gear attachment to help with distortion and canning. Would this help? (MAM
still maintains that the spring gear would be the best choice). After
reading the comments on this list about reinforcing the spring gear
attachment, I'm leaning toward standard gear with compression springs
rather than bungees.
"Super Rebel Wrap" ??!!! Don't know where this came from !! The
Super Rebel has a COMPLETELY different gear attachment method - I REALLY
doubt that ANY of it could be adapted to a Rebel. The SR floor is about
3 or 4" deep - there is NO double floor in the front of the Rebel ....
In any case, <I> believe you are correct - <MY> choice is the
standard gear. The bungee gear works fine, and, for years, I have
felt that the die-spring gear was harder on the airframe ....
(Recently had a long conversation with an aircraft design engineer
with 30 years experience, about where loads go, the result being that;
properly designed die-spring gear WILL transfer more loads to the airframe,
but only after you pass the 4 G range - at which point you could get
damage even with bungees !)
For those who know me, I'm getting used to the taste of crow
- a little BBQ sauce helps ! ;-) [ first, an O-320, and now
die-spring gear, to boot ... sigh .... - but, BOY does it GO !!!! :-) ]
You will get THE smoothest ride if you use steel tubes
to mount the die-springs (as Wayne has built - and likely will again - ).
If you DO this, you MUST also add the gear mounting bushing kit that
Gord Mohr sells - this is VITAL, because the gear is ALWAYS moving
on the die-springs. These bushings should be lubricated regularly, too.
Having flown all the different gear variations, I must say again
that you will get THE smoothest ride with the die springs !! I don't
even notice the rough taxiways at Brampton, and don't get the 'rolling'
that the spring gear can give....
2.Flaperons: Stay with the standard fabric covered flaperons... more
reponsive, simpler, lighter than split or metalized (Flaperons may have
higher stick forces when extended than split flap/ailerons?)
Absolutely !!! If you split them, you end up with HALF the
flap AND HALF the aileron, AND you lose the advantage of altering the
WHOLE airfoil section for negative flap cruising !!
3.Leading wing edge: Upgrade to .032 leading edge as on Elite...less risk
of dings, can be flush riveted.
Have NO dings - in 10 years of Rebelling !! Can't see any need
for the extra weight ...
4.Float attachment fittings: Not going on floats now, but it sounds like it
"firms up" the fuselage and would be a plus if ever sold.
Right on !!! Both are good reasons for doing it !
5.Firewall position: Leave standard...put survival gear and tools, etc, in
a tail compartment...possibly battery as well. Would this get CG in range?
Tough call !! Many builders HAVE done this, and their CofG's
ARE within the range ... Haven't noticed any big differences in
handling. Not moving the firewall certainly preserves your engine
options for later - you could even go to a Rotax 912 if 100LL disappears !
But - consider the 'barbell effect' of weight at both ends,in a spin ...
That extra forward arm could cause higher loads on the corner wraps,
firewall, etc. - possibly leading to higher maintenance down the road.
I now own an O-320 Rebel with the firewall in the original position,
and have no problems with it. I have also flown several other Rebels
with O-320's and Subarus (heavier) in this configuration, again, without
noting any problems. If you don't move it, and go against the factory's
recommendation, you are on your own ! It's not fair to complain later
if there are airframe problems !!
Sorry, that didn't help much, but gives you a few more things
to think about. In any case, you don't have to decide for some time -
you can build right up to the firewall (while shopping for an engine),
before you have to decide definitely !
6.Firewall forward: Order the high perf. cowling and Lyc. Dyna-Focal mount,
but not the entire firewall package...not a good enough value.
Ouch ! I feel some more crow coming on ....
<I> STILL am not a big fan of the "speed" cowl - it doesn't add ANY
speed, but does increase the cost by about $2,000, AND makes it hard
to work on the engine ..... The 'standard' cowl, with a fiberglass
nosebowl and aluminum sides, if modified for TWO piano hinges on
each side, makes the engine totally accessible, without forcing you
to find <somewhere> to put about 18 sq, ft. of fiberglass ... not
easy on floats !!
The crow ? Well..... my latest Rebel HAS the speed cowl -
and I have to admit, it DOES look sexy !! ( But it's <still> hard to
work on, expensive, and takes a lot of tweaking to get decent cooling !)
In any case - DON'T order anything UNTIL you actually HAVE
an engine !! You never know what bargains might appear - there might
even be a cheap diesel available by the time you're ready !!! ;-)
7.Pitot-static system: Order the factory system...or maybe fabricate?
<I> prefer to use a plain tube, at least 5/16" ID , mounted
above the wing strut - cheap, easy, and in a good location ...
(strictly VFRrr !!!) "Ve Follow Roads, Rivers, Railroads,
and Busses in a pinch !"
8.Windshield: I would like to go with tinted or polarized windshield and
door plastic. Are there any sources for this? MAM?
MAM can supply tinted windshields - <I> don't like the idea !
NOT good at night, under clouds, or in poor vis.. You CAN get tinted
roller-blind gadgets to use on the skylights - likely "A GOOD THING"(tm) :-)
<I> also DON'T like plastic doors - look sexy, I suppose, BUT
they're COLD, NOISY, and don't have POCKETS to stuff maps, sunglasses,
water bottles, tissues, zip-lock baggies .... (I need a LOT of junk ....
;-) )
Also, consider that your passengers will swear that the seat
gets 6" narrower for every thousand feet higher you go !!! :-) This
can be a REAL problem for folks who are a bit afraid of flying !
9.Doors: Front hinged doors...upper and lower tinted. Does a top hinge
offer many advantages?
Top hinges - "seaplane doors" - are very handy on floats. They
take a bit of work to install, (like - add 200 hours !!) ;-) ;-`)
In regular use, can be a pain !! They either fall on your head, bump
your head on the handles getting in & out, or are realllly difficult
to close ......
That said - I have seen several really nice installations on
Rebels. I think <I> would ONLY consider it <IF> I were going to be
on floats most of the time. (Unless, of course, one of those skilled
builders wanted to GIVE me a set !! ;-) ) [I'm getting used to crow.. ;-) ]
All of these 'extra' things can be nice, and really personalize
your Rebel, but I bet if you asked most builders who have done a LOT
of extras, the majority would tell you -
"Just build it as the factory suggests, and GO FLYING !!!
You can always add stuff LATER !"
Something you didn't mention, that <I> would do, is to order the
Rebel WITHOUT any fibreglass fairings, and use the wing and tail tips
supplied by Dave Fife, of 3D Composite Aircraft Parts Inc.. These
Hoerner style wing tips have reduced takeoff distance and stall speed,
while increasing cruise and handling quality - as well as saving you
about 60 hours (!) of building time, and looking great !!
(his email address is:
Aircrafttips@yahoo.com )
(and NO, I don't get commission !)
I know that a lot of this has already been covered...but I'm about ready to
order and would appreciate any further input about my choices.
Thanks, Charles Beck...Iowa
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Sorry, these are all just <MY> highly subjective, purely personal,
non-factory approved, opinions - please add them to your pile of suggestions,
and sift accordingly !
Hope we've ALL helped a bit .....
(And, of course, if you'd like ME to write up your order .... just call! ;-) )
Thanks !!!
....bobp
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