The Murphy Builders Site

It sounds like the tip is too big. The mandrel needs to fill the hole in
the tip to keep the centre of the rivet from being squeezed up.

At 09:34 PM 1/28/2008 -0900, you wrote:

A lot of my rivets aren't that smooth on their tops. It seems that they
would/should be. Some of them I wouldn't want to run my fingers over
quickly with any pressure. The gun I'm using is a Chicago Pneumatic,
admittedly not a high end gun. I've seen them on other building sites and I
assumed it was a decent gun. Maybe it's technique? There are many times I
have to squeeze it twice and I find that when I can put good pressure on the
tip it generally works with one squeeze. Of course, it's not always
possible to push that hard.



Anyone have an idea? If this gun's not that great, what is a good one?
BTW, I finished the second stab today. That leaves finishing up the
elevator trim tab and the fin re-make. Then it's off to the wings! Cool!
CW

Drew



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Craig,

Sometimes as Drew suggested you might have the wrong (next size up) head on
the gun. Sometimes you might not have the gun dead-on straight when you
shoot the rivet. I have two of those same rivet guns--they work just fine
99% of the time. When you do get slight burrs on the head of finished
rivets, just go back (later) and use a fine-grain roloc pad on your angle
die grinder and lightly smooth the burr. Works like a charm.

Ted Waltman

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Craig
Walls
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 11:34 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Riveting Question

A lot of my rivets aren't that smooth on their tops. It seems that they
would/should be. Some of them I wouldn't want to run my fingers over
quickly with any pressure. The gun I'm using is a Chicago Pneumatic,
admittedly not a high end gun. I've seen them on other building sites and I
assumed it was a decent gun. Maybe it's technique? There are many times I
have to squeeze it twice and I find that when I can put good pressure on the
tip it generally works with one squeeze. Of course, it's not always
possible to push that hard.



Anyone have an idea? If this gun's not that great, what is a good one?
BTW, I finished the second stab today. That leaves finishing up the
elevator trim tab and the fin re-make. Then it's off to the wings! Cool!
CW





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Craig,
If the nose piece diameter is too large it will create a burr on the top of
the rivet; and if your having to pull the trigger twice your probably have a
rivet stem stuck in the barrel. To remedy this take the barrel apart and
clean out the stem.
Regards,
JohnF
SR027

On Jan 28, 2008 11:34 PM, Craig Walls <snowyrvr@mtaonline.net> wrote:

A lot of my rivets aren't that smooth on their tops. It seems that they
would/should be. Some of them I wouldn't want to run my fingers over
quickly with any pressure. The gun I'm using is a Chicago Pneumatic,
admittedly not a high end gun. I've seen them on other building sites and
I
assumed it was a decent gun. Maybe it's technique? There are many times
I
have to squeeze it twice and I find that when I can put good pressure on
the
tip it generally works with one squeeze. Of course, it's not always
possible to push that hard.



Anyone have an idea? If this gun's not that great, what is a good one?
BTW, I finished the second stab today. That leaves finishing up the
elevator trim tab and the fin re-make. Then it's off to the wings! Cool!
CW





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--
JOHN FLETCHER
2275 Tyrrhenian Drive
Longmont, CO 80501
[H] 303-774-1345
[C] 303-746-7667




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Sometime you can also "polish" the nose piece if it dent or rough...

Jean Poirier
Pr

Thanks to everyone who offered rivet solutions. I have some things to
check. I don't have any paperwork on the CP riveter. My compressor cycles
@ 125-90 psi which I'd think would be good. I'll check for some stats
online. If anything I might have too much oil in the gun. I'm pretty anal
about oiling all the tools. Onward. CW

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Jean
Poirier
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 9:43 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Riveting Question

Sometime you can also "polish" the nose piece if it dent or rough...

Jean Poirier
Pr

You need a regulator on the line...and 50 to 60 psi is plenty for the 1/8"
aluminum rivets...you'll need around a 100 to pull the 3/16 and the
stainless ones.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Walls" <snowyrvr@mtaonline.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 2:28 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Riveting Question


[quote]Thanks to everyone who offered rivet solutions. I have some things to
check. I don't have any paperwork on the CP riveter. My compressor
cycles
@ 125-90 psi which I'd think would be good. I'll check for some stats
online. If anything I might have too much oil in the gun. I'm pretty
anal
about oiling all the tools. Onward. CW

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Jean
Poirier
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 9:43 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Riveting Question

Sometime you can also "polish" the nose piece if it dent or rough...

Jean Poirier
Pr

Also, some rivets will simply break off the mandrel proud of the rivet head.
Pretty common. My rivet gun would lose the oil in the hydraulic section of
the system over time and I would have to refill that section. This only
started happening after the gun had hundreds of hours on it though. The
symptom when that happened was needing repeated pulls to set the rivet, even
with the pressure set high.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of John
Fletcher
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 8:11 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Riveting Question

Craig,
If the nose piece diameter is too large it will create a burr on the top of
the rivet; and if your having to pull the trigger twice your probably have a
rivet stem stuck in the barrel. To remedy this take the barrel apart and
clean out the stem.
Regards,
JohnF
SR027

On Jan 28, 2008 11:34 PM, Craig Walls <snowyrvr@mtaonline.net> wrote:

A lot of my rivets aren't that smooth on their tops. It seems that they
would/should be. Some of them I wouldn't want to run my fingers over
quickly with any pressure. The gun I'm using is a Chicago Pneumatic,
admittedly not a high end gun. I've seen them on other building sites and
I
assumed it was a decent gun. Maybe it's technique? There are many times
I
have to squeeze it twice and I find that when I can put good pressure on
the
tip it generally works with one squeeze. Of course, it's not always
possible to push that hard.



Anyone have an idea? If this gun's not that great, what is a good one?
BTW, I finished the second stab today. That leaves finishing up the
elevator trim tab and the fin re-make. Then it's off to the wings! Cool!
CW





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--
JOHN FLETCHER
2275 Tyrrhenian Drive
Longmont, CO 80501
[H] 303-774-1345
[C] 303-746-7667




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Craig

The guys are referring to oil in the internal closed hydraulic cylinder.
The air piston is mechanically linked to a hydraulic piston that then
pulls the mandrel. You only have access to that oil if you disassemble
the puller and you seldom if ever will need to adjust it. It has no
relation to the oil you put in the air intake to lubricate the air piston.

Lower air pressure seems to give better results. I use a cheap inline
regulator to drop the pressure to about 40 psi or just enough to pull
the rivet and break the mandrel.

Chances are good that you can ignore all of this and just use the
smallest nosepiece that the mandrel will fit in easilly.

Ken

Craig Walls wrote:

Thanks to everyone who offered rivet solutions. I have some things to
check. I don't have any paperwork on the CP riveter. My compressor cycles
@ 125-90 psi which I'd think would be good. I'll check for some stats
online. If anything I might have too much oil in the gun. I'm pretty anal
about oiling all the tools. Onward. CW

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Thanks Ken,
Your advice is right on target.
I have also experimented with lower pressures. For me about 60 PSI
works on alum rivets. If I am trying to squeeze out sealant or thick
primer I hold a finger over the air exhaust hole, this cinches the rivet
tight for a few seconds and draws the rivet up tight as opposed to a
quick pop at times the rivet has not yet drawn up tight, sometimes
leaving a gap which is not desirable. I use a Harbor Freight / Post
Tool type of moisture separator / air regulator made for spray painting
and other uses, about $30 when on sale.

Dick Wampach SR-108



On Behalf Of Ken

Craig

The guys are referring to oil in the internal closed hydraulic cylinder.

The air piston is mechanically linked to a hydraulic piston that then
pulls the mandrel. You only have access to that oil if you disassemble
the puller and you seldom if ever will need to adjust it. It has no
relation to the oil you put in the air intake to lubricate the air
piston.

Lower air pressure seems to give better results. I use a cheap inline
regulator to drop the pressure to about 40 psi or just enough to pull
the rivet and break the mandrel.

Chances are good that you can ignore all of this and just use the
smallest nosepiece that the mandrel will fit in easilly.

Ken

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Thanks Ken. I went out today, got all the pieces, parts and accessories out
and was comparing the two riveters I have. The other one is a Jet. I've
been oiling my CP through the air inlet. Today, with a little examination I
found the oil fill on top. Since I have no literature I'm not sure whether
that's for normal oiling or what. My tip was a little too large for the
rivets and I took a smaller one and drilled it out to the 1/8" size. There
are two of the hollow cylinders where the jaws go and I found that they are
sized for certain rivets. I installed the one for smaller rivets. It
seemed to work well and I pulled 5 with smooth results.

Changing gears somewhat, tomorrow I'll but some flat skin pcs to use in my
fin remake. I work for the fire dept and our city shop has a brake and one
of the mechanics there told me he could make a slight crease that was
repeatable. I hope he's right.

Ken, your rebel looks great. I like the yellow. My wife saw one of Bob P's
old paint schemes and is pulling for that instead. I tried to tell her that
it wasn't an alaska paint scheme...more like the Bahamas. Come to think of
it, maybe that's why she likes it!


-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ken
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 3:06 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Riveting Question

Craig

The guys are referring to oil in the internal closed hydraulic cylinder.
The air piston is mechanically linked to a hydraulic piston that then
pulls the mandrel. You only have access to that oil if you disassemble
the puller and you seldom if ever will need to adjust it. It has no
relation to the oil you put in the air intake to lubricate the air piston.

Lower air pressure seems to give better results. I use a cheap inline
regulator to drop the pressure to about 40 psi or just enough to pull
the rivet and break the mandrel.

Chances are good that you can ignore all of this and just use the
smallest nosepiece that the mandrel will fit in easilly.

Ken

Craig Walls wrote:

Thanks to everyone who offered rivet solutions. I have some things to
check. I don't have any paperwork on the CP riveter. My compressor

cycles

@ 125-90 psi which I'd think would be good. I'll check for some stats
online. If anything I might have too much oil in the gun. I'm pretty

anal

about oiling all the tools. Onward. CW

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I have also experimented with lower pressures. For me about 60 PSI
works on alum rivets. If I am trying to squeeze out sealant or thick
primer I hold a finger over the air exhaust hole, this cinches the rivet
tight for a few seconds and draws the rivet up tight as opposed to a
quick pop at times the rivet has not yet drawn up tight, sometimes
leaving a gap which is not desirable. I use a Harbor Freight / Post
Tool type of moisture separator / air regulator made for spray painting
and other uses, about $30 when on sale.

Dick Wampach SR-108

Hi Dick I don't think putting a finger over the exhaust port is a good
idea. I've always been warned to never apply compressed air to skin as an
air embolism can result. At work we're not even allowed to dust off our
clothes with compressed air. When I was riveting my tanks I just used lots
of clecoes and pulled the rivets with a hand squeezer.
Drew



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