The Murphy Builders Site

I don't think CS rivets are needed on any of the horn attachments.

The manual does call for CS rivets for nutplates inside some of the end
caps (elevators, torque tubes, etc.) and for those I would highly
recommend you consider the Click Bond nutplates. Much easier to install,
and fewer holes.

Ron
254R


Craig Walls wrote:

Some of the photos I've seen look like the horns are attached to the spar
end caps with counter sunk rivets. Can anyone comment on this? The manual
doesn't call for it. Craig

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Thanks, Ron. I've already built two of the tubes with the MAM nut plates.
The Click Bond plates only use one attachment hole? Who has them?

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ron
Shannon
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 5:48 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Rudder Horn/Control Horn

I don't think CS rivets are needed on any of the horn attachments.

The manual does call for CS rivets for nutplates inside some of the end
caps (elevators, torque tubes, etc.) and for those I would highly
recommend you consider the Click Bond nutplates. Much easier to install,
and fewer holes.

Ron
254R


Craig Walls wrote:

Some of the photos I've seen look like the horns are attached to the spar
end caps with counter sunk rivets. Can anyone comment on this? The

manual

doesn't call for it. Craig

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They're sold retail by The Flight Shop -- nice people. See
http://tinyurl.com/2a9t38 Just one hole is required -- for the subject
bolt/screw.

The plate itself is attached with a heavy duty epoxy. They're widely
used in commercial and military aviation applications. (787, etc.) They
come with a little rubber "stick" through the nutplate. You push the
stick through the hole from behind, pull on it to reach a detent that
holds the nutplate at just the right tension for epoxy curing, and to
automatically center it on the hole. After 24 hrs., you just pull out
the rubber "stick" and you're good to go. Awesome.

I'm using them all over place. Stabilizer forward attach, tube end caps,
panel mounting, all kinds of stuff mounted through the FW, etc. Several
different varieties of parts are available in addition to nutplates,
including mounting studs for Adel clamps or whatever, "nails" with
retainers for insulation mats, cable tie plates, etc. You can special
order nutplates with "high cycle" ratings. They're a little pricey, but
the only significant limitation is the adhesive is rated to about 250
deg. F, so the nutplate itself should not be mounted on front side of
FW. I've no hesitation using them on back side of FW to mount FWF
accessories. Even if there's a fire that heats the FW and the epoxy
melts, the bolts and plates may turn, but they aren't going to pull out.



Craig Walls wrote:

Thanks, Ron. I've already built two of the tubes with the MAM nut plates.
The Click Bond plates only use one attachment hole? Who has them?

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Those are really neat Ron. I never liked MAMs method of dimpling and using
1/8" rivets for nutplates they never seemed to come out perfectly flat.
About halfway through my plane I switched to using solid 3/32" rivets in a
countersunk hole.

At 08:42 PM 1/1/2008 -0800, you wrote:

They're sold retail by The Flight Shop -- nice people. See
http://tinyurl.com/2a9t38 Just one hole is required -- for the subject
bolt/screw.

The plate itself is attached with a heavy duty epoxy. They're widely
used in commercial and military aviation applications. (787, etc.) They
come with a little rubber "stick" through the nutplate. You push the
stick through the hole from behind, pull on it to reach a detent that
holds the nutplate at just the right tension for epoxy curing, and to
automatically center it on the hole. After 24 hrs., you just pull out
the rubber "stick" and you're good to go. Awesome.

I'm using them all over place. Stabilizer forward attach, tube end caps,
panel mounting, all kinds of stuff mounted through the FW, etc. Several
different varieties of parts are available in addition to nutplates,
including mounting studs for Adel clamps or whatever, "nails" with
retainers for insulation mats, cable tie plates, etc. You can special
order nutplates with "high cycle" ratings. They're a little pricey, but
the only significant limitation is the adhesive is rated to about 250
deg. F, so the nutplate itself should not be mounted on front side of
FW. I've no hesitation using them on back side of FW to mount FWF
accessories. Even if there's a fire that heats the FW and the epoxy
melts, the bolts and plates may turn, but they aren't going to pull out.



Craig Walls wrote:

Thanks, Ron. I've already built two of the tubes with the MAM nut plates.
The Click Bond plates only use one attachment hole? Who has them?

Drew



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