[rebel-builders] 1800 amphib hydraulic tubing
Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 4:17 pm
Yah I hear you...always some mystery tube. Got it in the last float kit I
bought as well. A light gray tube....might be good.. might be bad... but
with no brand name on it I'm not gonna try it for anything but wiring
protection tube. I buy the parker 250 feet at a time when I need it and on
the rare occurance I can' t get it I use Nyloseal.
The parker has done the test of time for me. Howard's floats went 8 seasons
without issue, including the plastic tees. It was left parked out in direct
sunlight all summer long. I even reused the upper tubes from float to cabin
when I built his new floats 2 winters ago. Still nice and flexible etc to
this day.....just did it's winter tuck away a couple weeks back. The no-name
that was on FOKM originally went hard and brittle on the strut lines. It
will shatter if you bend it...and Garry no worries... it was all replaced.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] hydraulics cycling time
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bought as well. A light gray tube....might be good.. might be bad... but
with no brand name on it I'm not gonna try it for anything but wiring
protection tube. I buy the parker 250 feet at a time when I need it and on
the rare occurance I can' t get it I use Nyloseal.
The parker has done the test of time for me. Howard's floats went 8 seasons
without issue, including the plastic tees. It was left parked out in direct
sunlight all summer long. I even reused the upper tubes from float to cabin
when I built his new floats 2 winters ago. Still nice and flexible etc to
this day.....just did it's winter tuck away a couple weeks back. The no-name
that was on FOKM originally went hard and brittle on the strut lines. It
will shatter if you bend it...and Garry no worries... it was all replaced.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] hydraulics cycling time
I'd probably be using parflex if my float kit had of shipped with it.
Instead MAM sent some no name shit that went hard, shrank and leaked as
soon as it came in contact with oil.
At 12:02 PM 12/22/2007 -0500, you wrote:DrewAlso note that Parker Parflex is rated at 425psi. so I don't know why
everyone changes from it.
There isn't anything in the MAM floats that require more than 50 to 75psi
to
move and 100 to 125 psi is more than sufficient to keep the nose wheels
from
collapsing if you push the airplane backwards.
The manual pump quickly lets you know you've blow a line...U can then
reverse the selector and then pump the gear back into the position you
started from....with the remaining fluid. Electric pump blowing a line mid
cycle... well you're stuck landing in what ever configuration it's left
you
in because all your fluid is gone.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] hydraulics cycling time
Hello Cecil I believe that I'm using the same lines on my floats and
they're only aproved to 200 or 250 psi. If possible you might consider
lowering the shut off pressure on your punp. The pressure reqired to
keep
the gear locked is very low. Also if you lower the electric pump
pressure
you can test the system at more than the normal working pressure using
the
hand pump. this ensures that if a line is going to blow it will most
likely
happen during testing on the ground instead of in the air.
At 01:20 AM 12/22/2007 +0000, you wrote: Drew
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