The Murphy Builders Site

I have a tailwheel from Alaska Bushwheels, and the Murphy fiberglass tail
spring. The tailwheel is the big fat one, if that makes a difference. The
hole for bolting it to the tail spring is 1/2". that seems like quite a
big bolt for the job, and I am a little worried about putting a hole that
big in the fiberglass. I was thinking about putting a bushing in the
tailwheel, and using a 3/8" bolt instead. I was wondering what size hole
is in the Scott 3200 tailwheel, or the AK Bushwheel 3200? Anyone remember
using a 1/2" bolt?
Thanks.
Jesse

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I have a tailwheel from Alaska Bushwheels, and the Murphy fiberglass tail
spring. The tailwheel is the big fat one, if that makes a difference. The hole
for bolting it to the tail spring is 1/2". that seems like quite a big bolt
for the job, and I am a little worried about putting a hole that big in the
fiberglass. I was thinking about putting a bushing in the tailwheel, and using
a 3/8" bolt instead. I was wondering what size hole is in the Scott 3200
tailwheel, or the AK Bushwheel 3200? Anyone remember using a 1/2" bolt?
Thanks.
Jesse

_________________________________________________________________
Don't get caught with egg on your face. Play Chicktionary!
http://club.live.com/chicktionary.aspx? ... tlink1_dec



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Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 10:08:55 -0500
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Tailwheel bolt
From: jcole@rangroup.com
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com

Hi Jesse, The Scott 3200 takes a 1/2 bolt. I have one mounted on the Murphy
fiberglass tail spring and just went out to the hangar to double check the
bolt size.

Cheers
Jim
333R


On 12/14/2007 1:15 AM, "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com> wrote:

I have a tailwheel from Alaska Bushwheels, and the Murphy fiberglass tail
spring. The tailwheel is the big fat one, if that makes a difference. The hole
for bolting it to the tail spring is 1/2". that seems like quite a big bolt
for the job, and I am a little worried about putting a hole that big in the
fiberglass. I was thinking about putting a bushing in the tailwheel, and using
a 3/8" bolt instead. I was wondering what size hole is in the Scott 3200
tailwheel, or the AK Bushwheel 3200? Anyone remember using a 1/2" bolt?
Thanks.
Jesse

_________________________________________________________________
Don't get caught with egg on your face. Play Chicktionary!
http://club.live.com/chicktionary.aspx? ... tlink1_dec



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Hi Jesse,

I have the Alaska Bushwheels ABI-3224A (Scott 3200) which is the standard
tailwheel with the heavy duty upturned steering arms. It has the 1/2" bolt
mounting. I have it on the Aeronca tailspring.

Roger Hoffman
Eugene, OR USA!



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Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 21:15:45 -0700
From: wrightdg@davincibb.net
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Tailwheel bolt

Just to add a little ancient history, 068R FOKM, had the Murphy
tailwheel with the fibreglass tailspring when I got her(when not on
amphibs that is). The bolt was/is 1/2" so when it was eventually
converted to a 3200 tailwheel it remains 1/2". The tailspring has also
been converted to Wayne's Canadian Tire steel version because the
fiberglass one delaminated along the way.

Garry

rognal@dcsol.com wrote:

Hi Jesse,

I have the Alaska Bushwheels ABI-3224A (Scott 3200) which is the standard
tailwheel with the heavy duty upturned steering arms. It has the 1/2" bolt
mounting. I have it on the Aeronca tailspring.

Roger Hoffman
Eugene, OR USA!



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Thanks Guys,
Garry, did the delamination happen anywhere near the hole, or was it farther up in the curved part? When you switched to the steel one did you have to modify the clamping area, or was it the same thickness there? I'm trying to plan ahead for when I have to do that and hopefully I can make it so I can just swap it out without a major headache. If the leaf spring setup is thicker then I could make my clamping saddle wider now, and shim it to fit the fiberglass spring. That way I won't have to remake the tail struts just to change tailsprings.
Also, another question for anyone still listening: It looks like I will have to remove the tailspring in order to remove the bottom rudder hinge bolt to get the rudder off. Has that been a problem for anyone? Has anyone made a shorter hinge bushing and used a shorter bolt to be able to remove the rudder with the tailspring in place?
Thanks.
Jesse

Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 21:15:45 -0700
From: wrightdg@davincibb.net
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Tailwheel bolt

Just to add a little ancient history, 068R FOKM, had the Murphy
tailwheel with the fibreglass tailspring when I got her(when not on
amphibs that is). The bolt was/is 1/2" so when it was eventually
converted to a 3200 tailwheel it remains 1/2". The tailspring has also
been converted to Wayne's Canadian Tire steel version because the
fiberglass one delaminated along the way.

Garry

rognal@dcsol.com wrote:

Hi Jesse,

I have the Alaska Bushwheels ABI-3224A (Scott 3200) which is the standard
tailwheel with the heavy duty upturned steering arms. It has the 1/2" bolt
mounting. I have it on the Aeronca tailspring.

Roger Hoffman
Eugene, OR USA!



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Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2007 05:49:48 -0700
From: wrightdg@davincibb.net
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Tailwheel bolt

The delamination occurs in the rear section of the tailspring. My
situation was induced by two things. One is a rough spot and the other
was the fact that the tailwheel in use at the time was a Scott 24B -
that is the single arm unit equiv to the Scott 2000. I have had
differences of opinion with knowledgeable people about how that
tailwheel arrangement generates torque on the tailspring, but it does -
in substantial quantity. I've seen its affects directly. Thus those two
devices do not mix very well since the delamination is more a result of
twist than of load. The 3200 with two arms is fine with the fibreglass
spring. I understand the fibreglass spring lasts a good long time if not
subjected to too much twisting. It eventually delaminates whatever is done.

The only difference between the steel tailspring and the fibreglass
tailspring, mount wise, is the thickness, not the width. The steel will
likely need slightly different spacers if you do the Canadian Tire one.
Your mileage will vary with other choices. To fit the 24B, the spring
needs to be narrower, but you won't be doing that anyway.

The rudder removal is a matter of how much spacer you put in on the
tailspring mount. Removal of the rudder is infrequent enough that I
wouldn't worry about having to take the tailspring off at the same time
- that's only a twenty minute job at most.

Garry

Jesse Jenks wrote:

Thanks Guys,
Garry, did the delamination happen anywhere near the hole, or was it farther up in the curved part? When you switched to the steel one did you have to modify the clamping area, or was it the same thickness there? I'm trying to plan ahead for when I have to do that and hopefully I can make it so I can just swap it out without a major headache. If the leaf spring setup is thicker then I could make my clamping saddle wider now, and shim it to fit the fiberglass spring. That way I won't have to remake the tail struts just to change tailsprings.
Also, another question for anyone still listening: It looks like I will have to remove the tailspring in order to remove the bottom rudder hinge bolt to get the rudder off. Has that been a problem for anyone? Has anyone made a shorter hinge bushing and used a shorter bolt to be able to remove the rudder with the tailspring in place?
Thanks.
Jesse

Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 21:15:45 -0700
From: wrightdg@davincibb.net
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Tailwheel bolt

Just to add a little ancient history, 068R FOKM, had the Murphy
tailwheel with the fibreglass tailspring when I got her(when not on
amphibs that is). The bolt was/is 1/2" so when it was eventually
converted to a 3200 tailwheel it remains 1/2". The tailspring has also
been converted to Wayne's Canadian Tire steel version because the
fiberglass one delaminated along the way.

Garry

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Thanks for the help Garry,
Just curious, was the Canadian Tire spring thicker or thinner than the fiberglass?
Jesse

Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2007 05:49:48 -0700
From: wrightdg@davincibb.net
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Tailwheel bolt

The delamination occurs in the rear section of the tailspring. My
situation was induced by two things. One is a rough spot and the other
was the fact that the tailwheel in use at the time was a Scott 24B -
that is the single arm unit equiv to the Scott 2000. I have had
differences of opinion with knowledgeable people about how that
tailwheel arrangement generates torque on the tailspring, but it does -
in substantial quantity. I've seen its affects directly. Thus those two
devices do not mix very well since the delamination is more a result of
twist than of load. The 3200 with two arms is fine with the fibreglass
spring. I understand the fibreglass spring lasts a good long time if not
subjected to too much twisting. It eventually delaminates whatever is done.

The only difference between the steel tailspring and the fibreglass
tailspring, mount wise, is the thickness, not the width. The steel will
likely need slightly different spacers if you do the Canadian Tire one.
Your mileage will vary with other choices. To fit the 24B, the spring
needs to be narrower, but you won't be doing that anyway.

The rudder removal is a matter of how much spacer you put in on the
tailspring mount. Removal of the rudder is infrequent enough that I
wouldn't worry about having to take the tailspring off at the same time
- that's only a twenty minute job at most.

Garry

Jesse Jenks wrote:

Thanks Guys,
Garry, did the delamination happen anywhere near the hole, or was it farther up in the curved part? When you switched to the steel one did you have to modify the clamping area, or was it the same thickness there? I'm trying to plan ahead for when I have to do that and hopefully I can make it so I can just swap it out without a major headache. If the leaf spring setup is thicker then I could make my clamping saddle wider now, and shim it to fit the fiberglass spring. That way I won't have to remake the tail struts just to change tailsprings.
Also, another question for anyone still listening: It looks like I will have to remove the tailspring in order to remove the bottom rudder hinge bolt to get the rudder off. Has that been a problem for anyone? Has anyone made a shorter hinge bushing and used a shorter bolt to be able to remove the rudder with the tailspring in place?
Thanks.
Jesse

Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2007 17:16:36 -0700
From: wrightdg@davincibb.net
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Tailwheel bolt

Thinner.

Jesse Jenks wrote:

Thanks for the help Garry,
Just curious, was the Canadian Tire spring thicker or thinner than the fiberglass?
Jesse

Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2007 05:49:48 -0700
From: wrightdg@davincibb.net
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Tailwheel bolt

The delamination occurs in the rear section of the tailspring. My
situation was induced by two things. One is a rough spot and the other
was the fact that the tailwheel in use at the time was a Scott 24B -
that is the single arm unit equiv to the Scott 2000. I have had
differences of opinion with knowledgeable people about how that
tailwheel arrangement generates torque on the tailspring, but it does -
in substantial quantity. I've seen its affects directly. Thus those two
devices do not mix very well since the delamination is more a result of
twist than of load. The 3200 with two arms is fine with the fibreglass
spring. I understand the fibreglass spring lasts a good long time if not
subjected to too much twisting. It eventually delaminates whatever is done.

The only difference between the steel tailspring and the fibreglass
tailspring, mount wise, is the thickness, not the width. The steel will
likely need slightly different spacers if you do the Canadian Tire one.
Your mileage will vary with other choices. To fit the 24B, the spring
needs to be narrower, but you won't be doing that anyway.

The rudder removal is a matter of how much spacer you put in on the
tailspring mount. Removal of the rudder is infrequent enough that I
wouldn't worry about having to take the tailspring off at the same time
- that's only a twenty minute job at most.

Garry

Jesse Jenks wrote: