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[rebel-builders] Rebel - door sealing & rivets

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 4:11 pm
by Bob Patterson
Hi Ben !

The original builder of my Rebel had a good fix, for those who
have already used regular rivets around the door. He glued a
strip of soft leather over the full width (3/4" ??) of the inside of
the door gap seal strip. It squishes over the rivet heads, and
fills the gap, stopping both wear, and drafts ....

--
......bobp
http://www.prosumers.ca
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com
http://apatterson2.ordermygift.com

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Monday 10 December 2007 05:09, bransom@dcsol.com wrote:
Thanks Ken. I'm going to read ahead again to see if I can find what MAM
says about riveting the outside bottom skins to the cage area. (I meant
"cage area" -- the square bulkheads and up to the carry-through) when
asking about riveting the outside bottom skins Fus-39 and Fus-40. I'm
not even there yet with the inside floor of this area.

How far above, below and behind the doors do you suggest dimpling -- just
the first couple rivets in any of those directions?
-Ben
Hi Ben
I had the older manual at the time but I do recall having the entire
bottom and side skins rivetted and the fuselage on the wheels before
doing any of the inside extra floor channels so I think you are OK to
rivet the exterior skins if you want up to but not at the cage. I wish I
had dimpled all the rivets above below and behind the doors though as
the door flanges rub on those rivets in flight.

I see a note after Figure 12.31.4 in the newer manual about not
rivetting Fus-40 if using spring gear. Definately don't rivet the
interior floor until you have planned any plumbing and wiring conduits
that you might want and positioned the seat rails and seat belts and
reinforced the float attachment brackets. Might even want to wait til
the control columns are positioned. 1'" rivet pitch sounds about right
but I don't really remember.

Ken


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