The Murphy Builders Site

Mike
If u haven't done it yet, attach ur wheel springs to the outer hole along with the rudder cables. Use an eye bolt upside down thru the cable shackle and attach the chains to the eye. Use a castle nut and cotter pin to control the "squeeze" on the shackle. Have the cable tension enough to take any slack or droup out of the chain. This gives more travel distance to the wheel steering arm and shud kick out with minimial force at full deflection.

Steve W> To: rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com> Subject: [rebel-builders] Rudder Deflection & Tail Wheel> From: indabush@hay.net> Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 09:49:42 -0500> > Could be a bigger problem ...........................> > I am concerned about the high kick out force required on the tail wheel. I > couldn't get it to break away during taxi. This puts a lot of pressure on > the rudder horn, rudder horn stop bolts, lower rudder pivot bolt and pivot > bracket bolts. It has been suggested than lighter weight springs may > work, but I think there is a bigger problem. The standard rudder travel > is supposed to be +-25 degrees. I have 18.5 deg. to the left and only 17 > deg. to the right! (I believe that the rudder and tail spring support / > rudder stops were installed according to the manual.) This means that the > tail wheel does not rotate enough to start riding up on the cam before > full rudder travel is reached. How do I increase rudder travel in a > system that does not have any adjust
ment devise?> > Mike.>
_
____________________________> Michael Ash, C-FNBO> > > > > -----------------------------------------------------------------> List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login> username "rebel" password "builder"> Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com> List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com> -----------------------------------------------------------------> > >
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I have never noticed any real kickout force required on mine with MAM's
tailwheel. Full rudder plus a little brake and it swivels. I have the
compression (screen door) springs that some guys don't like. I don't
believe I have +/- 25* of rudder either but I did make sure that the
travel came close to the elevator cutout. By close I mean the rear of
the rudder is only about 1.5" or so from hitting the elevator. I seem
to recall filing the rudder horn a bit to get that. My tailwheel springs
are setup as per MAM with just a little slack and they are fastened to
the outer holes of the rudder horn. My manual did not have any elevator
stops so I used two long AN4 bolts with spacers to hold the tailspring
to the rudder post. I have also seen a setup that used a short piece of
angle aluminum held by the top of each of those bolts such that he
gained a bit more rudder travel. However mine hits the stops at the
same time it hits the brackets that hold the tail spring anyway.
Ken

indabush@hay.net wrote:

Could be a bigger problem ...........................

I am concerned about the high kick out force required on the tail wheel. I
couldn't get it to break away during taxi. This puts a lot of pressure on
the rudder horn, rudder horn stop bolts, lower rudder pivot bolt and pivot
bracket bolts. It has been suggested than lighter weight springs may
work, but I think there is a bigger problem. The standard rudder travel
is supposed to be +-25 degrees. I have 18.5 deg. to the left and only 17
deg. to the right! (I believe that the rudder and tail spring support /
rudder stops were installed according to the manual.) This means that the
tail wheel does not rotate enough to start riding up on the cam before
full rudder travel is reached. How do I increase rudder travel in a
system that does not have any adjustment devise?

Mike.
_____________________________
Michael Ash, C-FNBO

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