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[rebel-builders] tie downs

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 3:56 pm
by Ken
Ron
FWIW a hardware store grade 5 steel or plated steel bolt is as strong as
an AN bolt and less likely to induce galvanic corrosion of the aluminum.
No real need to chase down stainless bolts and washers. I did the same
as you and just cut back some of the threads off to get the right grip
range.
I think Jim just bent a thick aluminum bracket and put a hole through it
for the rope and it looked just fine to me as well ;)
Ken

Ron Shannon wrote:
Like several others, I didn't like MAM's 5/16" tie down eye bolts
because they're full threaded and the eye is small. I decided to use a
D-ring eye nut, as Wayne and others have suggested. Don't recall if
these sources have been posted before or not, but thought I'd pass them on:

I found cast 316 stainless lifting eye nuts at Bo'sun Supplies (see
http://tinyurl.com/3e2v6m). I chose the 5/16" for the monster 780 lbs.
load rating and because I'd already drilled one strut hole to 5/16" for
the MAM tie down bolts. The 1/4" eye nut's 460 lbs. working load rating
is probably more than sufficient.

The eye nuts are coarse threaded, so I got 5/16-18 818 stainless bolts
from boltdepot.com (see http://tinyurl.com/2lyekk). The 2.5" long bolts
(Product #148) were just about 2 threads too long, extending into the
eye a little too much, so I ground off about 2 threads. Unlike the MAM
bolts, these have a non-threaded shank.

I assembled them with a stainless flat washer and a stainless split-ring
lock washer under the eye nut, and some Loctite. Photos are at
http://tinyurl.com/34facz and http://tinyurl.com/32cdp7, and on the
Rebel Builders site, in Files, Rebel, Misc.

Ron
254R





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